One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

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On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

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That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first time
in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old. Started
up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch off, 3-4
pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke. Brrrooom.
Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So much for
stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2 and
4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new gas. Big
fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas with
stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for any gas
over a month old...

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On 6/13/2017 1:26 PM, Jack wrote:
On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

---
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That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first time
in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old. Started
up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch off, 3-4
pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke. Brrrooom.
Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So much for
stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2 and
4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new gas. Big
fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas with
stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for any gas
over a month old...


If you had uses a stabilizer and premium fuel you could have started it
on a half pull on first try with the ignition off.

So much for old gas.


And if you think anyone believes 10 year old gas, well, no one is that
stupid.

On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 13:47:51 -0400, Casper
wrote:

One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

That's as big as a Texas massacre!

On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 14:26:25 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

---
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That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first time
in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old. Started
up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch off, 3-4
pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke. Brrrooom.
Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So much for
stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2 and
4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new gas. Big
fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas with
stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for any gas
over a month old...
I've never used stabilizers - and chainsaws are a "special case" as
the tanks are (generally)sealed and pressurized.No oxidation, no
condensation, and no evaporization. My old Remington srarted on the
second or third pull after sitting 4 years. All I did was shake it a
few times to make sure the oil was well mixed.The weed-eater on the
other hand - with an open-to-the-elements tank won't start after 9
months - - Same fuel and mix.

On 6/13/2017 2:30 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/13/2017 1:26 PM, Jack wrote:
On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first
time in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old.
Started up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch
off, 3-4 pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke.
Brrrooom. Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So
much for stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2
and 4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new
gas. Big fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas
with stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for
any gas over a month old...


If you had uses a stabilizer and premium fuel you could have started it
on a half pull on first try with the ignition off.

That would only work in Texas.

So much for old gas.

And if you think anyone believes 10 year old gas, well, no one is that
stupid.

What you believe or not is your problem, not mine.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On 6/13/2017 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 14:26:25 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first time
in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old. Started
up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch off, 3-4
pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke. Brrrooom.
Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So much for
stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2 and
4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new gas. Big
fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas with
stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for any gas
over a month old...
I've never used stabilizers - and chainsaws are a "special case" as
the tanks are (generally)sealed and pressurized.No oxidation, no
condensation, and no evaporization. My old Remington srarted on the
second or third pull after sitting 4 years. All I did was shake it a
few times to make sure the oil was well mixed.The weed-eater on the
other hand - with an open-to-the-elements tank won't start after 9
months - - Same fuel and mix.

That makes sense I guess, but my weed-wacker started with some pretty
darned old gas in it as well. Not 10 years, but years. I did use some
ether to get it going, but once started, runs like a top. Also, my snow
blower and pressure washer always have at least year old gas in them
when started the first time, and never a problem.

Not saying people should use really old gas, but I am saying there is a
hell of a lot of hype over old gas and the need for stabilizer. I buy
20 gallons of gas at a time for my tractor and lawnmowers. If it's near
the end of the season, the gas sits there all winter often, 9 months and
over a year before used up the next season. Never use stabilizer, and
never once had a problem. I, and my brother have been doing this for
over 60 years with a huge variety of equipment, so some (stupid) people
might think I'm lying, or just lucky, that is definitely not the case.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

The weed-eater on the other hand - with an open-to-the-elements tank won't start after 9
months - - Same fuel and mix.

On lawn stuff...
Old gas, new gas, stabilizers, oil mixes, spark plugs, filters... bah.
I got rid of all that in exchange for lithium. Always starts, no mess,
and no fuss. Bought mulching mower, weed-whacker and blower all for
under $250 including shipping. Batteries (included) interchangeable.
Takes 1.5 in spring when grass is thick and 1 rest of season. Mower
has bag so doing leaves is easy peasy; blow, mow, bag and free mulch.

My previous mower, a Craftsman power drive, had pull and electric
start. Battery cost $65+. Battery charger $45+. Power drive was nice
but can't use in tight spots. Always a pain to start each season. Also
gasoline gives me serious headaches too.

Previous mower a Ryobi battery. Had it over 25 years and only replaced
battery and charging board once. Mulched and ran like a champ. Only
reason I gave it away (and should not have) is because I got the
Craftsman power mower for free. Sold that two years ago.

Only thing that runs out of gas now... is me.

On chainsaws...
I've had little call for a chainsaw, so the corded electric Craftsman
I got from grandpa works just fine when needed.

A friend once brought over his gas chainsaw to cut up a downed tree
and ended up fubaring his saw. He got it fixed then did it again
following year when a tree fell in a storm and took out his dish
antenna. He borrowed neighbor's chainsaw and killed that one too. I
guess some people just aren't meant to handle some tools. /shrug

Just my 2 cents.

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On Wed, 14 Jun 2017 08:48:10 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 6/13/2017 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 14:26:25 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 6/13/2017 1:47 PM, Casper wrote:
One seriously long chainsaw (first photo)...
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/6132217385.html

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


That's some serious bar on that thing.

Speaking of chainsaws... Started my 40+ year old 18" for the first time
in around 10 years. Gas, without stabilizer was 10 years old. Started
up exactly as it always did. Touch of ether, power switch off, 3-4
pulls @ full choke, power switch on, 3-4 pulls @ half choke. Brrrooom.
Runs like a champ, same as it did the day I bought it. So much for
stabilizer, at least in Pgh.

Also, I only buy (low 87) octane for all my power equipment, both 2 and
4 cycle. All my power equipment runs like a top on old and new gas. Big
fat raspberry's to those insisting on gunking up your gas with
stabilizers, particularly Honda motors that need stabilizer for any gas
over a month old...
I've never used stabilizers - and chainsaws are a "special case" as
the tanks are (generally)sealed and pressurized.No oxidation, no
condensation, and no evaporization. My old Remington srarted on the
second or third pull after sitting 4 years. All I did was shake it a
few times to make sure the oil was well mixed.The weed-eater on the
other hand - with an open-to-the-elements tank won't start after 9
months - - Same fuel and mix.

That makes sense I guess, but my weed-wacker started with some pretty
darned old gas in it as well. Not 10 years, but years. I did use some
ether to get it going, but once started, runs like a top. Also, my snow
blower and pressure washer always have at least year old gas in them
when started the first time, and never a problem.

Not saying people should use really old gas, but I am saying there is a
hell of a lot of hype over old gas and the need for stabilizer. I buy
20 gallons of gas at a time for my tractor and lawnmowers. If it's near
the end of the season, the gas sits there all winter often, 9 months and
over a year before used up the next season. Never use stabilizer, and
never once had a problem. I, and my brother have been doing this for
over 60 years with a huge variety of equipment, so some (stupid) people
might think I'm lying, or just lucky, that is definitely not the case.
You have to remember you are NOT starting the engine on stale
gasoline - you are staerting it on ether. You are also pretty lucky -
your old gas hasn't gummed anything up. I've worked on equipment where
the gas was as dark coloured as cola, and as thick as syrup, and it
STUNK to high heaven. You could put it in a sprayer and spray it
through the flame of a blowtorch and be lucky to get it to light - - -
.. The gas in the tank of my '53 Coronet when I bought it was about 7
years old. Not a chance you could have run anything on it - with the
possible exception of a steam enfine if it was squirted into a hot
fire.
That said, I NEVER use stabilizer - I occaisionally use SeaFoam and
occaisionally Marvel Mystery Oil - but not as stabilizers - more as
"mechanic in a can" - and if used properly for the right reasons they
are both very effective.

On Wednesday, June 14, 2017 at 11:25:51 AM UTC-4, Casper wrote:
The weed-eater on the other hand - with an open-to-the-elements tank won't start after 9
months - - Same fuel and mix.

On lawn stuff...
Old gas, new gas, stabilizers, oil mixes, spark plugs, filters... bah.
I got rid of all that in exchange for lithium. Always starts, no mess,
and no fuss. Bought mulching mower, weed-whacker and blower all for
under $250 including shipping. Batteries (included) interchangeable.
Takes 1.5 in spring when grass is thick and 1 rest of season. Mower
has bag so doing leaves is easy peasy; blow, mow, bag and free mulch.


You must not have a lot of leaves. I fill my bag at least once just mowing
the small amount of leaves in very early fall on a very small lot. By mid
fall I'm loading up the tarp 4-5 times and dragging the leaves into the woods
across the road. Luckily it's a very steep hill down to a bay, so the pile
at the top stays small and hidden from view of the road.

On 6/14/2017 3:25 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jun 2017 08:48:10 -0400, Jack wrote:
\
Not saying people should use really old gas, but I am saying there is a
hell of a lot of hype over old gas and the need for stabilizer. I buy
20 gallons of gas at a time for my tractor and lawnmowers. If it's near
the end of the season, the gas sits there all winter often, 9 months and
over a year before used up the next season. Never use stabilizer, and
never once had a problem. I, and my brother have been doing this for
over 60 years with a huge variety of equipment, so some (stupid) people
might think I'm lying, or just lucky, that is definitely not the case.

You have to remember you are NOT starting the engine on stale
gasoline - you are staerting it on ether.

True, but I only use either on my 2 cycle stuff, mainly the chainsaw.
The chainsaw has been notoriously hard to start since new. After many
many years of fighting it, I tried ether, even though it is supposed to
be hard on the engine, It works like a charm. 4 cycle stuff never needs
ether, it all starts easily. Only exceptions is my brothers 1954
gravely tractor that has always been hard to start in the winter when we
used it to plow snow. Shot of ether fixed that right up as well.

You are also pretty lucky -
your old gas hasn't gummed anything up. I've worked on equipment where
the gas was as dark coloured as cola, and as thick as syrup, and it
STUNK to high heaven. You could put it in a sprayer and spray it
through the flame of a blowtorch and be lucky to get it to light - - -
. The gas in the tank of my '53 Coronet when I bought it was about 7
years old. Not a chance you could have run anything on it - with the
possible exception of a steam enfine if it was squirted into a hot
fire.

Like I said, thinking I, and my brother have been lucky for 60 years and
on a wide variety of equipment doesn't cut it. No luck is involved.

Your experience with gas thick as syrup and carburetors gummed up has
not happened to me once. I've heard about, read about it, never once
experienced it. My old neighbor told me about it, but he was born in
the 1800's and had lots of experience with old gas gumming stuff up,
turning to varnish etc. He always warned me about old gas, but he was
wrong. Probably was right before gas companies figured out the right
additives to keep gas from doing that stuff.

Perhaps your '53 Coronet had gas from before gas companies started using
the right additives? I know I rebuilt an engine in 1954 Merc that had
40,000 miles on it. Taking off the valve covers and the gunk was so
thick you couldn't see the valves. The whole engine was like that, and
the cylinder walls had thick ridges worn in them, and only 40,000 miles.
That was because the the gas and oil in those days was crap. Today's
engines are clean after 100,000 miles I hear. Gas has changed, people
still stuck in ancient history.

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+ straight
years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I could be
lying, but really, why would I waste my time?

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

You must not have a lot of leaves. I fill my bag at least once just mowing
the small amount of leaves in very early fall on a very small lot. By mid
fall I'm loading up the tarp 4-5 times and dragging the leaves into the woods
across the road. Luckily it's a very steep hill down to a bay, so the pile
at the top stays small and hidden from view of the road.
---
I used to have two trees on my property. One died about 6mos after
moving in and was removed. The other, a giant pin oak, was dying from
the inside and cut down three years ago. It was over 100ft tall.

So in answer to your question, I get tons of leaves. From where? My
bloody neighbors. One has a small farm circled by trees, mostly
hickory, and never does leaves. Other neighbors all drag the leaves
from their lawns (some from farm) back to the farm property, which
then promptly blow back into my yard.

First year I moved in I bagged leaves. I ended up working hours and
into the dark with over 30 bags in one day. I quit at dark. After that
I went out and bought a leaf blower and mulcher. Now I end up with
about 30 bags of mulch for the entire season.

Now I am just waiting for the fire to start. Neighbors keep dragging
leaves onto farm property, which they are not supposed to do, and
where there is a ton of poison ivy now last two years. Tried to kill
it last year but no go. Now neighbors are throwing bbq grill coals on
the farm too. Can you see an issue here?

I already told property owners about the problem and they said they
would take care of it. That's two years in a row now and not a thing
done. My insurance company said send a letter to the owners informing
them of the problem, then once it catches fire, the insurance company
can take them to court. Ok but that's not going to help the kids, or
adults, that might breathe that stuff in and get sick. One kid got
poison ivy in her eyes and still nothing done.

My neighbors are like a box of chocolates... (fill in rest).

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I,switched to the premixed fuel you get,in the can at the local Ace. My only beef is my weed whacker takes 50:1 and the chain saw takes 40:1. Fuel stays in the equipment for months and no problem starting.

On 6/15/2017 11:07 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I,switched to the premixed fuel you get,in the can at the local Ace. My only beef is my weed whacker takes 50:1 and the chain saw takes 40:1. Fuel stays in the equipment for months and no problem starting.


Do a bit of research on it, Larry.

My small engine guy told me to go to 50:1 across the board, especially
if using the pre-mixed fuel or the 2-cycle oil specifically designed for
mixing.

Echo products says the same thing: Use 50:1 regardless of what our
owners manual says.

Hell, just using the non-ethanol, pre-mixed fuel is going to extend your
engine's longevity by itself.

Also found this with a bit of research.

"If you are using a modern 2-cycle oil designed for air cooled engines
and it says 50:1 on the bottle, then you can use it at that
concentration in your saws without worry. This is true even if the
owners manual for your older saws and OPE say something different like
40:1, 32:1, 20:1, etc. The properties of 2-cycle oils have improved
dramatically over the past couple decades..

The same modern oil at 40:1 is fine, too. As always, keep your OPE
properly tuned.

If you are using your saw for heavy duty activity like milling, higher
concentrations of oil will help to protect your engine."

On Thu, 15 Jun 2017 09:07:44 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 6/14/2017 3:25 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jun 2017 08:48:10 -0400, Jack wrote:
\
Not saying people should use really old gas, but I am saying there is a
hell of a lot of hype over old gas and the need for stabilizer. I buy
20 gallons of gas at a time for my tractor and lawnmowers. If it's near
the end of the season, the gas sits there all winter often, 9 months and
over a year before used up the next season. Never use stabilizer, and
never once had a problem. I, and my brother have been doing this for
over 60 years with a huge variety of equipment, so some (stupid) people
might think I'm lying, or just lucky, that is definitely not the case.

You have to remember you are NOT starting the engine on stale
gasoline - you are staerting it on ether.

True, but I only use either on my 2 cycle stuff, mainly the chainsaw.
The chainsaw has been notoriously hard to start since new. After many
many years of fighting it, I tried ether, even though it is supposed to
be hard on the engine, It works like a charm. 4 cycle stuff never needs
ether, it all starts easily. Only exceptions is my brothers 1954
gravely tractor that has always been hard to start in the winter when we
used it to plow snow. Shot of ether fixed that right up as well.

You are also pretty lucky -
your old gas hasn't gummed anything up. I've worked on equipment where
the gas was as dark coloured as cola, and as thick as syrup, and it
STUNK to high heaven. You could put it in a sprayer and spray it
through the flame of a blowtorch and be lucky to get it to light - - -
. The gas in the tank of my '53 Coronet when I bought it was about 7
years old. Not a chance you could have run anything on it - with the
possible exception of a steam enfine if it was squirted into a hot
fire.

Like I said, thinking I, and my brother have been lucky for 60 years and
on a wide variety of equipment doesn't cut it. No luck is involved.

Your experience with gas thick as syrup and carburetors gummed up has
not happened to me once. I've heard about, read about it, never once
experienced it. My old neighbor told me about it, but he was born in
the 1800's and had lots of experience with old gas gumming stuff up,
turning to varnish etc. He always warned me about old gas, but he was
wrong. Probably was right before gas companies figured out the right
additives to keep gas from doing that stuff.

Been a mechanic since 1969 -worked on a lot of old equipment (farm
equipment and industrial equiupment, plus small engine equipment both
2 and 4 stroke - as well as old cars - and I've seen a LOT of "skunky"
gas. A LOT of really dark coloured skunky gas, and several cases of
gas so thick there was no way it would atomize in a carb.

Perhaps your '53 Coronet had gas from before gas companies started using
the right additives? I know I rebuilt an engine in 1954 Merc that had
40,000 miles on it. Taking off the valve covers and the gunk was so
thick you couldn't see the valves. The whole engine was like that, and
the cylinder walls had thick ridges worn in them, and only 40,000 miles.
That was because the the gas and oil in those days was crap. Today's
engines are clean after 100,000 miles I hear. Gas has changed, people
still stuck in ancient history.

If they guy changed the oil often enough and used good gas there was
no reason for an engine to be "gunked up" even in '54. My 28 Chevt
engine was pretty clean, considering it had run all it's life on
non-detergent oil when I opened it up in 1976. My 1957 Fargo Flathead
six was also very clean, with virtually no cyl wear at 250,000 miles
when I changed the cracked head in 1975 or 1976. (246? cu inch - the
BIG flathead six). The fuel in the 28 was terrible - had a terrible
time getting the tank cleaned out - after sitting from 1970 to 76. The
57 had been on the road almost constantly - never sitting for over a
yeat at a time, so no fuel problems.

The fuel in the Pontiac Firefly was stinky when I moved it 3 years ago
- after sitting for 3 years under a tree. It will in all likelihood be
a lot worse by now, but if I ever put it back together the tank will
be gone and batteries will take it's place (my second electric
vehicle)

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+ straight
years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I could be
lying, but really, why would I waste my time?
You are not lying - you just have limited experience - - -

On Thu, 15 Jun 2017 13:09:04 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 6/15/2017 11:07 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I,switched to the premixed fuel you get,in the can at the local Ace. My only beef is my weed whacker takes 50:1 and the chain saw takes 40:1. Fuel stays in the equipment for months and no problem starting.


Do a bit of research on it, Larry.

My small engine guy told me to go to 50:1 across the board, especially
if using the pre-mixed fuel or the 2-cycle oil specifically designed for
mixing.

Echo products says the same thing: Use 50:1 regardless of what our
owners manual says.

Hell, just using the non-ethanol, pre-mixed fuel is going to extend your
engine's longevity by itself.

Also found this with a bit of research.

"If you are using a modern 2-cycle oil designed for air cooled engines
and it says 50:1 on the bottle, then you can use it at that
concentration in your saws without worry. This is true even if the
owners manual for your older saws and OPE say something different like
40:1, 32:1, 20:1, etc. The properties of 2-cycle oils have improved
dramatically over the past couple decades..

The same modern oil at 40:1 is fine, too. As always, keep your OPE
properly tuned.

If you are using your saw for heavy duty activity like milling, higher
concentrations of oil will help to protect your engine."
and NEVER mix 40:1 oil at 50:1 -- It is not designed to protect your
engine at 50:1.

A lot of the 16 and 20:1 recomendations were for SAE30 non detergent
engine oil for Pete's sake - - -

Jack wrote in news
*snip*

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+
straight years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I
could be lying, but really, why would I waste my time?


I don't seem to have problems with gas either. I did have some 4 wheeler
gas go yellow, that was from sitting for so long (over a year). After
putting a carb rebuild kit in, it's running ok. I mixed the yellow gas
with fresh gas and ran it through the mower.

Hey, I wonder... Do you use Shell gas? I don't. Back when Mom was my
age, she found every time she put Shell gas in her car something went
wrong with it. I just keep up the habit, mainly to keep her happy and
partially because there's not really a Shell station near my usual
haunts.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 6/15/2017 4:46 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in news
*snip*

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+
straight years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I
could be lying, but really, why would I waste my time?


I don't seem to have problems with gas either. I did have some 4 wheeler
gas go yellow, that was from sitting for so long (over a year). After
putting a carb rebuild kit in, it's running ok. I mixed the yellow gas
with fresh gas and ran it through the mower.

Umm You suppose the carb had to be overhauled because the gas was bad?
That would seem to be a problem to me, maybe not you. ;~)



Hey, I wonder... Do you use Shell gas? I don't. Back when Mom was my
age, she found every time she put Shell gas in her car something went
wrong with it. I just keep up the habit, mainly to keep her happy and
partially because there's not really a Shell station near my usual
haunts.

I have been using nothing but Shell and occasionally Chevron for 8 Plus
years.


Puckdropper

On 15 Jun 2017 21:46:27 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Jack wrote in news
*snip*

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+
straight years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I
could be lying, but really, why would I waste my time?


I don't seem to have problems with gas either. I did have some 4 wheeler
gas go yellow, that was from sitting for so long (over a year). After
putting a carb rebuild kit in, it's running ok. I mixed the yellow gas
with fresh gas and ran it through the mower.

Hey, I wonder... Do you use Shell gas? I don't. Back when Mom was my
age, she found every time she put Shell gas in her car something went
wrong with it. I just keep up the habit, mainly to keep her happy and
partially because there's not really a Shell station near my usual
haunts.

Puckdropper
Generally a year isn't too serious. 3 or more can start to be
trouble.

On 6/15/2017 12:07 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I,switched to the premixed fuel you get,in the can at the local Ace. My only beef is my weed whacker takes 50:1 and the chain saw takes 40:1. Fuel stays in the equipment for months and no problem starting.

I never use 50:1. My chainsaw blew up on 50:1 the first week I used it.
Rebuilt the engine and used 20:1 non-detergent motor oil for the next
40 years. Also used the same stuff in my weedwacker for at least 20
years. I just recently switched to using a 40:1 mixture of the regular
2 cycle oil in my chainsaw and weed wacker.

You can't go wrong going heavy, only a little smoke (20:1 stuff smoked a
lot, 40:1 not at all) and a little hard to start. You can use 40:1 in
both your engines, and should have no problem at all. Never go light,
and 50:1 is really too light IMO, and IME, regardless of what the manual
says.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On 6/15/2017 5:46 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in news

Whatever it is, LUCK is not my, nor my brothers forte, and 60+
straight years of luck isn't anyone's forte far as I know. I guess I
could be lying, but really, why would I waste my time?

I don't seem to have problems with gas either. I did have some 4 wheeler
gas go yellow, that was from sitting for so long (over a year). After
putting a carb rebuild kit in, it's running ok. I mixed the yellow gas
with fresh gas and ran it through the mower.

Hey, I wonder... Do you use Shell gas? I don't. Back when Mom was my
age, she found every time she put Shell gas in her car something went
wrong with it. I just keep up the habit, mainly to keep her happy and
partially because there's not really a Shell station near my usual
haunts.

Puckdropper

I use whatever gas is cheapest, or most convenient. Rarely to never use
Shell because it is not convenient for me, and never the cheapest.
Mostly I use GetGo or BP.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

I've been following this thread and figured I'd throw in my 2 cents.

I have a couple relatively new Stihl chainsaws (MS271 and MS461), a Stihl
FS130R trimmer and a Stihl HS56 hedge trimmer. I run 93 octane non-ethanol
gasoline along with Stihl synthetic mix oil at the recommend the 50:1
ratio... I ran into issues with the "more is better" philosophy when I tried
running 40:1 with the same gas and oil... the machines ran too lean. It was
particularly a problem with the trimmer which is a 4-mix engine, i.e., 4
stroke that runs on mix fuel and has no oil sump system. The 4-mix ran way
too lean... I went back to 50:1 and all the problems went away. I can detect
no excessive wear and they run just fine. I've never had a problem starting
any of them after winter storage -- I drain the tanks and run them dry.

I'm very good about keeping air filters, as well as the rest of the machine,
clean and the cutting implements sharp. I've used the MS461 to cut trees and
mill logs up to 30" DBH and have run string, tri-blade and saw-blade cutting
implements on the trimmer.

I run the same gas with a bit of Marvel Mystery oil in my 4 stroke lawn
mower. The oil lubes the top end pretty well and keeps it clean judging by
my inspections. It never takes more than 2 pulls to start and typically only
one even after sitting all winter.

Yes the 93 octane and synthetic oils cost a little more but I don't waste
time and cuss words on getting my machines running... ;~)

Anyhow, that's been my experience... As they say, your mileage may vary!

On 6/19/2017 9:02 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:


Yes the 93 octane and synthetic oils cost a little more but I don't
waste time and cuss words on getting my machines running... ;~)

Anyhow, that's been my experience... As they say, your mileage may vary!

Many years ago my brother and I were running some small 2 cycle engines
and we experimented with fuel blends. Synthetic oils gave a higher rpm
and less wear. Well worth the money.