Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of you guys have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip size. I just received this in my email today, maybe you did too.

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.


We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP Finishing Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish at a low cost. As an e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE Shipping Every Day on orders of $35 or more when you enter promo code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...en+This_V20305

Steve writes:
Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of you guys =
have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip size. I just re=
ceived this in my email today, maybe you did too. =20

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.=20
=20

We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP Finishing =
Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish at a low cost. As a=
n e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE Shipping Every Day on orders of $=
35 or more when you enter promo code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...0305&utm_sour=
ce=3Dbronto&utm_medium=3Demail&utm_term=3DImage +-+NEW+Rockler+HVLP+finishin=
g+sprayer&utm_content=3DHave+You+Seen+This?&utm_c ampaign=3D042617_b_r_Have+=
You+Seen+This_V20305

Here's a shorter link that doesn't include potentially personal information about you:

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-finishing-sprayer

Generally, you should remove everything after the first '?' symbol
in the URL before posting, just in case customer numbers or other
personal information is encoded in the query string (the characters
after the first interrogatory symbol).

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 10:27:07 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:


http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-finishing-sprayer

Generally, you should remove everything after the first '?' symbol
in the URL before posting, just in case customer numbers or other
personal information is encoded in the query string (the characters
after the first interrogatory symbol).

Thanks, Scott! That's very helpful.

On 4/26/2017 8:24 AM, Steve wrote:
Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of you guys have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip size. I just received this in my email today, maybe you did too.

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.


We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP Finishing Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish at a low cost. As an e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE Shipping Every Day on orders of $35 or more when you enter promo code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...en+This_V20305



Hi Steve,

I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in the
last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner Airless
sprayer 30+ years ago.

Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively fine
furniture, bare wood?

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 12:49:58 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

Hi Steve,

I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in the
last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner Airless
sprayer 30+ years ago.

Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively fine
furniture, bare wood?

I have to admit, Leon, I use no such thing, I just noticed that others were asking. Personally, I'm a Purdy guy, especially when it comes to clearcoats. I'll use a white bristle, but I especially like the Purdy OxO line for thinner clears like lacquers & varnishes.

I got my start in construction and real estate generally as a housepainter, and I did a lot of upscale homes in greater Boston. (What else was I supposed to do with a liberal arts degree??) Anyway, I have tried them, seen them used, and I have also worked in lumber yards/paint stores that sold them. I'm not speaking on behalf of the Rockler unit, but generally they can be trouble.

As an analogy, working with them is like using a 2 cycle engine-- if you're not using it all the time, the ethanol is going to tear up your carbs; the residue is going to clog your tips; if you ARE using them all the time, then you know what you're doing, how to clean, what degree to thin the fluid to, and what sort of stippling you'll get out of it. The challenge for most of us is getting to the point of being proficient or better at spraying with them.

Units like these, I know guys who use them all the time, but STILL backbrush their clearcoats. It's going to depend on one's proficiency and level of detail.

Maybe Rockler would be open to an in-store demo.

On 4/27/2017 10:18 AM, Steve wrote:
On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 12:49:58 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

Hi Steve,

I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in
the last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner
Airless sprayer 30+ years ago.

Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively
fine furniture, bare wood?

I have to admit, Leon, I use no such thing, I just noticed that
others were asking. Personally, I'm a Purdy guy, especially when it
comes to clearcoats. I'll use a white bristle, but I especially like
the Purdy OxO line for thinner clears like lacquers & varnishes.

I got my start in construction and real estate generally as a
housepainter, and I did a lot of upscale homes in greater Boston.
(What else was I supposed to do with a liberal arts degree??)
Anyway, I have tried them, seen them used, and I have also worked in
lumber yards/paint stores that sold them. I'm not speaking on behalf
of the Rockler unit, but generally they can be trouble.

As an analogy, working with them is like using a 2 cycle engine-- if
you're not using it all the time, the ethanol is going to tear up
your carbs; the residue is going to clog your tips; if you ARE
using them all the time, then you know what you're doing, how to
clean, what degree to thin the fluid to, and what sort of stippling
you'll get out of it. The challenge for most of us is getting to the
point of being proficient or better at spraying with them.

Units like these, I know guys who use them all the time, but STILL
backbrush their clearcoats. It's going to depend on one's proficiency
and level of detail.

Maybe Rockler would be open to an in-store demo.




Thank you Steve.

On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 2:57:00 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/27/2017 10:18 AM, Steve wrote:
On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 12:49:58 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

Hi Steve,

I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in
the last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner
Airless sprayer 30+ years ago.

Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively
fine furniture, bare wood?

I have to admit, Leon, I use no such thing, I just noticed that
others were asking. Personally, I'm a Purdy guy, especially when it
comes to clearcoats. I'll use a white bristle, but I especially like
the Purdy OxO line for thinner clears like lacquers & varnishes.

I got my start in construction and real estate generally as a
housepainter, and I did a lot of upscale homes in greater Boston.
(What else was I supposed to do with a liberal arts degree??)
Anyway, I have tried them, seen them used, and I have also worked in
lumber yards/paint stores that sold them. I'm not speaking on behalf
of the Rockler unit, but generally they can be trouble.

As an analogy, working with them is like using a 2 cycle engine-- if
you're not using it all the time, the ethanol is going to tear up
your carbs; the residue is going to clog your tips; if you ARE
using them all the time, then you know what you're doing, how to
clean, what degree to thin the fluid to, and what sort of stippling
you'll get out of it. The challenge for most of us is getting to the
point of being proficient or better at spraying with them.

Units like these, I know guys who use them all the time, but STILL
backbrush their clearcoats. It's going to depend on one's proficiency
and level of detail.

Maybe Rockler would be open to an in-store demo.




Thank you Steve.

If anybody does get one I would love to hear a review.

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 11:49:58 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

That sprayer has been around for a while, regardless of it being new to Rockler. It is an Earlex 2 stage, considered at best an entry level machine. That being said, you can get some good use out of it. Like many tools, you can't get premium results using a great deal of materials, but it does have its place.


I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in the
last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner Airless
sprayer 30+ years ago.

Sound likes me. Once bitten, twice shy. OK, maybe thrice shy.


Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

This is an all plastic unit, so the surfaces can be problematic. As with any spray rig, cleanliness is one of the keys to a consistent finish. The plastic doesn't hold up to the hard resinous residue that can form from continued spraying being removed with harsh solvents and a stiff brush. If you are going to use it once in a while, say once a month or so, this could be a great choice.


Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively fine
furniture, bare wood?

That truly depends on the material you are applying. Part of using HVLP technology means that you will learn proper thinning and mixing procedures for your finish. You can thin solvent based finishes that have no solids like lacquer, most shellacs, and clear polyurethanes, etc. and spray them well as they have no solids to desegregate when thinned.

Other materials put a specific limit on how much you can thin before you have ruined the material itself, or wind up with a bad finish. For example, a satin finish poly is no different than a clear gloss except that the satin has a certain percentage of silica crystals that diffuse the light and make it "non gloss". Over thinning the satin finish will cause the silica to come out of suspension and give you a blotchy finish.

But, since an HVLP doesn't break down the finishes into tiny droplets like our old guns that could create a fog bank, you have to become a master of thinning.

This is a two stage unit, so it has enough power to do a fair amount of work. For what you are doing Leon, this could be a great deal for clear coats if you find a finish you like and "woodshed it" to get your formulas correct. Thin more on cooler days, less on warm day, more for that finish and less for others. The gun has rudimentary controls on it, so you can tinker with it to fine tune what you want.

I had a Fuji 4 stage with their best gun and selection of air caps, and finally sold it. I used it a lot and got great results with clear finishes and even latex, but it was redundant after a fashion. Remember too, that these sprayers /reduce/ the overspray and drift, not eliminate it. If you are spraying in your shop, you will still have to cover your tools. If you are going to make a rolling platform, you can do what I do. Put your material on a cart/roller, roll it out on the driveway, spray, roll it back in the garage.

This could do all you want if you don't go for the real high performance enamels, etc. An occasional project is what these are made for as well as being a stepping stone to other HVLP machines. Certainly, the price is right! I paid a bit under a grand for my Fuji 12 years ago, no telling what that is now. It required less thinning and material manipulation before application because it was a 4 stage.

I have not used one of these personally, but have instructed two different clients on their use. One shot poly and some primers, and the other shot shellac and latex. Both were happy with their results, both thankful I told them to 1) keep good notes on the temp, humidity and thinning procedures used on each material, and 2) practice on anything but your project.

I know Karl has some instructions on how to set this rig up. He has one very similar, and I scribbled out a bunch on gun setup. You know how much he likes his results with this setup when shooting shellac. I am telling you, once you get proficient spraying, you will have a hard time going back to rubbing, back rolling, brushing, sanding, and all the other things that most people hate about finishing.

Oh yeah... they aren't hard to clean! A package of tooth brushes from the dollar store, some hard round tooth picks and come clean solvent make the job go quick.

Robert

On 4/28/2017 2:16 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 11:49:58 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

That sprayer has been around for a while, regardless of it being new
to Rockler. It is an Earlex 2 stage, considered at best an entry
level machine. That being said, you can get some good use out of it.
Like many tools, you can't get premium results using a great deal of
materials, but it does have its place.


I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in
the last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner
Airless sprayer 30+ years ago.

Sound likes me. Once bitten, twice shy. OK, maybe thrice shy.


Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

This is an all plastic unit, so the surfaces can be problematic. As
with any spray rig, cleanliness is one of the keys to a consistent
finish. The plastic doesn't hold up to the hard resinous residue
that can form from continued spraying being removed with harsh
solvents and a stiff brush. If you are going to use it once in a
while, say once a month or so, this could be a great choice.

Clean up is my biggest gripe.



Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively
fine furniture, bare wood?

That truly depends on the material you are applying. Part of using
HVLP technology means that you will learn proper thinning and mixing
procedures for your finish. You can thin solvent based finishes that
have no solids like lacquer, most shellacs, and clear polyurethanes,
etc. and spray them well as they have no solids to desegregate when
thinned.

Probably exclusively clear poly.




Other materials put a specific limit on how much you can thin before
you have ruined the material itself, or wind up with a bad finish.
For example, a satin finish poly is no different than a clear gloss
except that the satin has a certain percentage of silica crystals
that diffuse the light and make it "non gloss". Over thinning the
satin finish will cause the silica to come out of suspension and give
you a blotchy finish.

But, since an HVLP doesn't break down the finishes into tiny droplets
like our old guns that could create a fog bank, you have to become a
master of thinning.

This is a two stage unit, so it has enough power to do a fair amount
of work. For what you are doing Leon, this could be a great deal for
clear coats if you find a finish you like and "woodshed it" to get
your formulas correct. Thin more on cooler days, less on warm day,
more for that finish and less for others. The gun has rudimentary
controls on it, so you can tinker with it to fine tune what you
want.

I had a Fuji 4 stage with their best gun and selection of air caps,
and finally sold it. I used it a lot and got great results with
clear finishes and even latex, but it was redundant after a fashion.
Remember too, that these sprayers /reduce/ the overspray and drift,
not eliminate it. If you are spraying in your shop, you will still
have to cover your tools. If you are going to make a rolling
platform, you can do what I do. Put your material on a cart/roller,
roll it out on the driveway, spray, roll it back in the garage.

And that would be a problem for me, it is very seldom not windy in my
driveway.



This could do all you want if you don't go for the real high
performance enamels, etc. An occasional project is what these are
made for as well as being a stepping stone to other HVLP machines.
Certainly, the price is right! I paid a bit under a grand for my
Fuji 12 years ago, no telling what that is now. It required less
thinning and material manipulation before application because it was
a 4 stage.

I have not used one of these personally, but have instructed two
different clients on their use. One shot poly and some primers, and
the other shot shellac and latex. Both were happy with their
results, both thankful I told them to 1) keep good notes on the temp,
humidity and thinning procedures used on each material, and 2)
practice on anything but your project.

I know Karl has some instructions on how to set this rig up. He has
one very similar, and I scribbled out a bunch on gun setup. You know
how much he likes his results with this setup when shooting shellac.
I am telling you, once you get proficient spraying, you will have a
hard time going back to rubbing, back rolling, brushing, sanding, and
all the other things that most people hate about finishing.

Oh yeah... they aren't hard to clean! A package of tooth brushes
from the dollar store, some hard round tooth picks and come clean
solvent make the job go quick.

Robert




Got it. And THANK YOU Robert.

actually airless sprayer is ideal for large spraying size like a house / roofing and interior / exterior wall.
hvlp spray gun is good for clear coat because it's very thin. but it can't spray heavier paint like enamel or latex.

so depends on your application, chose the right sprayer.
below are some reference for using an airless paint sprayer

http://www.dpairless.com/faq-airless...r-reviews.html

http://www.dpairless.com/faq-airless...-painting.html


http://www.dpairless.com/faq-airless...-material.html

http://www.dpairless.com/faq-airless...s-sprayer.html


On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 12:49:58 AM UTC+8, Leon wrote:
On 4/26/2017 8:24 AM, Steve wrote:
Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of you guys have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip size. I just received this in my email today, maybe you did too.

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.


We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP Finishing Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish at a low cost. As an e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE Shipping Every Day on orders of $35 or more when you enter promo code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...en+This_V20305



Hi Steve,

I assume you use this or one like this.

I have on many occasions considered using this type equipment in the
last 30 years. I had a terrible experience with a Wagner Airless
sprayer 30+ years ago.

Anyway, How much trouble is it to clean these/this sprayers?

Is this unit good enough to deliver a fine finish on relatively fine
furniture, bare wood?

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 8:24:37 AM UTC-5, Steve wrote:
Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of you guys have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip size. I just received this in my email today, maybe you did too.

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.


We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP Finishing Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish at a low cost. As an e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE Shipping Every Day on orders of $35 or more when you enter promo code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...en+This_V20305

I know specialized tools are neat things to have, but why would anyone want a dedicated HVLP unit? Seriously, an 8gal HF air compressor and a HF spot touch up gun and you are up and running for somewhere around $100. Plus you get all the other uses an air compressor comes in so handy for. With the dedicated unit, you can just spray finish.

On 8/10/18 8:19 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 8:24:37 AM UTC-5, Steve wrote:
Not trying to produce spam or bacon here, but I know that some of
you guys have been asking about clearcloats (Shellac, e.g.,) & tip
size. I just received this in my email today, maybe you did too.

Regardless, Hope it helps someone else out.


We thought you'd like to be one of the first to see our new HVLP
Finishing Sprayer. It's a time saver that delivers a great finish
at a low cost. As an e-mail subscriber, you qualify for FREE
Shipping Every Day on orders of $35 or more when you enter promo
code V20305 at checkout.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-...en+This_V20305


I know specialized tools are neat things to have, but why would
anyone want a dedicated HVLP unit? Seriously, an 8gal HF air
compressor and a HF spot touch up gun and you are up and running for
somewhere around $100. Plus you get all the other uses an air
compressor comes in so handy for. With the dedicated unit, you can
just spray finish.


Maybe it's just me and my set-up, but I prefer having the stand-alone
unit for a couple reasons.
1. It's much more portable than separate gun & compressor.
2. It's much quieter. When I used the 8-gallon tank and gun, it seemed
like the compressor never stopped running, even with the low pressure
spray gun.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com