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Old April 17th 17, 05:48 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.

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Old April 17th 17, 06:27 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder

Leon [email protected] wrote:

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=A00235

Use the 4-to-1 rule: Make sure the ladder is 1 foot away from the
wall for every 4 feet that the ladder rises. For example, if the
ladder touches the wall 16 feet above the ground, the feet/base of
the ladder should be 4 feet from the wall. If you are going to climb
onto a roof, the ladder should extend 3 feet higher than the roof.
The upper and lower sections of an extension ladder should overlap to
provide stability.

-or-

75deg -- Figure 13-1: Ladder Angle:
http://www.bclaws.ca/civix/document/...treg/296_97_10
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Old April 17th 17, 07:27 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder

On Mon, 17 Apr 2017 11:48:47 -0500, Leon [email protected]
wrote:

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


Leon, the thought just occurred to me that you could use unistrut,
with a pair of rollers but instead of using the rollers on a vertical
install, use them on a horizontal or sideways install.


https://www.grainger.com/category/st...irect=unistrut


And a couple trolley's.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNISTRUT-P27...AOSwA3dYK1O 0

You could make a silicone plastic slide to grip the underside of the
Unistrut effectively keeping the wheels in contact with the Unistrut.
and then bolt a ladder to the whole assembly. Then make a simple wheel
setup for the bottom of the ladder. with a little bit of work, and
painted to match or contrast your book cases it should cost total less
than 150, I'd think. And should last until the house fell down.
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Old April 17th 17, 08:04 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder



"Leon" wrote in message
...

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand offs
would be at least $1,000.00.


Leon, Rockler has the hardware for a rolling library ladder for half your
estimate. Here's a link:

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-class...it-satin-black

Tom

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Old April 17th 17, 08:08 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 10,227
Default Library ladder

On 4/17/2017 12:27 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Leon [email protected] wrote:

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=A00235

Use the 4-to-1 rule: Make sure the ladder is 1 foot away from the
wall for every 4 feet that the ladder rises. For example, if the
ladder touches the wall 16 feet above the ground, the feet/base of
the ladder should be 4 feet from the wall. If you are going to climb
onto a roof, the ladder should extend 3 feet higher than the roof.
The upper and lower sections of an extension ladder should overlap to
provide stability.

-or-

75deg -- Figure 13-1: Ladder Angle:
http://www.bclaws.ca/civix/document/...treg/296_97_10


Thank you! My current allowance is 18" for 108" and I thought that
looked way to unstable.


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Old April 17th 17, 08:09 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder

On 4/17/2017 1:27 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 17 Apr 2017 11:48:47 -0500, Leon [email protected]
wrote:

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


Leon, the thought just occurred to me that you could use unistrut,
with a pair of rollers but instead of using the rollers on a vertical
install, use them on a horizontal or sideways install.


https://www.grainger.com/category/st...irect=unistrut


And a couple trolley's.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNISTRUT-P27...AOSwA3dYK1O 0

You could make a silicone plastic slide to grip the underside of the
Unistrut effectively keeping the wheels in contact with the Unistrut.
and then bolt a ladder to the whole assembly. Then make a simple wheel
setup for the bottom of the ladder. with a little bit of work, and
painted to match or contrast your book cases it should cost total less
than 150, I'd think. And should last until the house fell down.



Thank you, That is something I'll put some consideration into...
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Old April 17th 17, 08:18 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default Library ladder

On 4/17/2017 2:04 PM, tdacon wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.


Leon, Rockler has the hardware for a rolling library ladder for half
your estimate. Here's a link:

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-class...it-satin-black


Tom



ahhh. I went through that kit build again and the hardware is about
$700. I must have remembered with pricing with the wood included. That
adds $400. If I supply the wood I can get the price down to $800.
Still kinda pricey.. ;~( BUT going in the right direction.
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Old April 17th 17, 08:57 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 370
Default Library ladder

Leon [email protected] wrote:

On 4/17/2017 12:27 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Leon [email protected] wrote:

I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=A00235

Use the 4-to-1 rule: Make sure the ladder is 1 foot away from the
wall for every 4 feet that the ladder rises. For example, if the
ladder touches the wall 16 feet above the ground, the feet/base of
the ladder should be 4 feet from the wall. If you are going to climb
onto a roof, the ladder should extend 3 feet higher than the roof.
The upper and lower sections of an extension ladder should overlap to
provide stability.

-or-

75deg -- Figure 13-1: Ladder Angle:
http://www.bclaws.ca/civix/document/...treg/296_97_10


Thank you! My current allowance is 18" for 108" and I thought that
looked way to unstable.


Yep, 108/4 = 27"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEuHUcWQGY0

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Old April 17th 17, 09:04 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 3,092
Default Library ladder

Wow... a lot of good info flying around today. I will be keeping that ladder safety pdf. I do some consulting, and that is a great summary of ladder safety and use.

Leon, you might want to take a look at the "unistrut" suggestion from OFWW. Check with your local electrical supply house under the name of "Kindorf" since that is the way they sell it. I pay about $60 for a 10' stick, and that would take care of your length. The trolley wheels make that workable for you as you can modify them to be a face mount on your ladder itself.

On the backside of the ladder you could mount a couple of workbench wheels that would allow easy movement of the ladder. Tons of them on Amazon:

https://goo.gl/aydc19

You could mount some wheels to the bottom of your ladder sides, and then put some adhesive in the bearings so they didn't swivel, but rolled freely on a straight line:

https://goo.gl/LLBg0H

You could get these, put rubber feet on the bottom of the sides of the ladder, and lock them up to move the ladder (3/4" lift) and then roll your ladder in place. Again, swivel to straight line rolling and easy cure.

https://goo.gl/GplKkp

If you want an underwire buy 1/4" all thread. HD has it cheap, something like 3 bucks a stick. You can groove the bottom of your steps to receive at least part of the radius (or not) and finish the ends of the all thread with an end cap nut over a washer. Lay out all your hardware and spray paint it the color you want before assembly. If you mortise your steps into the sides (really Robert... it's Leon... it will be dovetail mortised and Dominoed... !!!) then you can assemble with all thread only and no other attachment needed except maybe a high viscosity glue for the end grain (step) to long grain joint above the all thread.

One thing I would certainly do that is cheap and easy would be to build a mock up ladder out of 2X4. That way you can check for clearance, ease of use, step distances and verify your dimensions. You could build a lean to mock up with $10 worth of material, and a nail gun in minutes, knock down after you are happy and use the 2X4 parts for something else.

Love to see what your final decision will be.

Robert
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Old April 17th 17, 10:06 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 12,600
Default Library ladder

On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 12:48:57 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
I am getting close to needing to build a ladder for my 10'+ tall book
shelves. I'm probably going to go the less expensive route and simply
build a lean-to ladder. Fancy hardware and wheels and bars and stand
offs would be at least $1,000.00.

Anyway has anyone done this? I am in particular wondering what the
minimum angle should be to prevent falling backwards. I am not going to
attach the ladder to the book cases, my plan is to put rubber feet on
the bottom and maybe felt pads where it will lean against the book case.
I'll just pick it up and move it as needed.

I am certain a normal step ladder ladder is probably a good angle but I
do not want to take up any more floor space than necessary if I leave it
out and leaning against the book case all of the time. Alternatively I
can stand the ladder at the end of the cabinets out of the way.


Are you getting younger or older? Conserving space and storing the ladder
out of the way sounds like a great idea now, but how about 10 years out?

We're getting designs for a new front stoop and walkway. 2 steps for the
stoop and then another up into the house. One of my criteria for the design
is the ability to add a railing at a later date.


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