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#281
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On 2/20/2017 9:47 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/20/2017 9:30 AM, Jack wrote: If you ever were barreling down the road at 50MPH in the summer on dry pavement, touch your brakes to slow down and the ABS goes of, giving you 50% braking power as you approach a line of stopped cars in front of you, you will very quickly be standing on your brake pedal. Taught me that my brake pedal would not break, or bend under immense force brought on by a rapidly building panic that I was not going to stop in time. Force vs a computer, computer wins. Fortunately I was not in a hurry that day, and knew there was traffic at that spot every day, and had allowed plenty of room to slowly come to a stop. Stopped about a foot behind the car in front, with both feet on the pedal. Very scary. What set the ABS off? Are you saying it was not needed and cut braking power to 50% ? Exactly. Well, I don't know what makes them go off when they're not supposed to, and you're not sliding, some sort of problem with the sensors I reckon. You can hear the squeak when they go off on my truck, but what is more noticeable is your stopping distance is about doubled. In an emergency stop, you are toast. If I ran into the back you, and killed myself, no one could ask me what happened. If I killed you, I could say it was my ABS systems fault, and if they checked them, they would probably be working again, as the problem is not constant, but intermittent. GM lawyers would be saying everyone blames the brakes, but it never is... -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#283
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On 2/20/2017 1:45 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 09:42:07 -0500, Jack wrote: If it was a GM product, and it was rusted brake lines or ABS failure, tell her I'd be happy to testify on the 100% brake failure on my last 3 GM purchases since 2001, as well as GM's failure to address or fix the problems. Like I have stated, and given examples before, it is NOT just a GM problem. GM buys it's lines from the same companies Ford and Chrysler do. Likely Honda and Toyota and hyundai and all the other companies that assemble vehicles in North America - whether that be Canada, Mexico, or the USA. Well whomever is making those crap lines should be sued into oblivion. My experience with rusted lines is only with GM products made since 2001. I'm the type that keeps my cars until they fall apart and are pretty much worthless. Never had a problem with brake lines until the 2001 GMC and a 2002 and a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. We had other GM products before 2001 that didn't have a problem with brake lines rusting out. No one in my family owns a GM product now, and never will. I might note that the outside of their cars no longer seem to easily rust out, and the exhaust system is stainless. I guess that stuff is a moving billboard of a rust bucket product. So now, the bumpers rust from the inside out, brake lines rust and so on. Smooth move on their part. My bumper had a light touch of a rust spot on it, which I had planned to easily rub off with some polish... Nope, about all that was left of the bumper was a ultra thin layer of chrome, which looked pretty good to a pedestrian walking by. ABS problems are a different story --- Yes, I suspect that the ABS problem is mostly fixed. I am a bit shell shocked by it though, and don't think they should be on any car, and the safety crap is just that, crap. I have no problems or fear with the fuse pulled on my truck. Stops just like I expect at all times, other than when the brake lines rust apart. I should be good until 2022 if history repeats. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#284
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#285
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:31:23 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote: On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. Z-Bart of the '90s was much different than the Z-Bart of the '70s. It shouldn't be necessary for most vehicles (galvanized panels) but it wouldn't surprise me if GM cut corners. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... I went with an F150 because it was at least $15K less than the competition and just a good, if not better. I don't live in rust country anymore so that wasn't an issue. |
#286
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:31:23 -0500, Jack wrote:
On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote: On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. You arfe one of the lucky ones. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... I'll keep soaking the bottom of my now 21 year old truck with oily rust protectants and see if I can get a couple hundred thousand more Kms on it before I croak. It will turn 350,000km within a week - definitely on this tank of gas. I'll likely end up replacing the "wife's car" one more time before we stop driving. It's 15 years old now and it won't be long before what needs fixing and what I'm willing to fix on it come to a convergence - likely another 3 years - 5 at the very best. When the truck finally dies we will be a one vehicle household. |
#287
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 13:42:45 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:31:23 -0500, Jack wrote: On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote: On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. Z-Bart of the '90s was much different than the Z-Bart of the '70s. It shouldn't be necessary for most vehicles (galvanized panels) but it wouldn't surprise me if GM cut corners. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... I went with an F150 because it was at least $15K less than the competition and just a good, if not better. I don't live in rust country anymore so that wasn't an issue. And a Ram would have been about the same amount less than the F. |
#288
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 16:57:01 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 13:42:45 -0500, wrote: On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:31:23 -0500, Jack wrote: On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote: On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. Z-Bart of the '90s was much different than the Z-Bart of the '70s. It shouldn't be necessary for most vehicles (galvanized panels) but it wouldn't surprise me if GM cut corners. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... I went with an F150 because it was at least $15K less than the competition and just a good, if not better. I don't live in rust country anymore so that wasn't an issue. And a Ram would have been about the same amount less than the F. I call bull**** on that one. I haven't seen a new truck with a price tag of $10K for a *long* time. I wouldn't buy a Chrysler product if there were no other choice. |
#289
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Not looking good for the Bosch Reaxx TS
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 23:11:34 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 16:57:01 -0500, wrote: On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 13:42:45 -0500, wrote: On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:31:23 -0500, Jack wrote: On 2/20/2017 1:50 PM, wrote: On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:07:21 -0500, Jack wrote: I bought a 1978 GMC Van, and it didn't rust out after about 15 years. I had it Z-barted immediately after purchase though. Might have been your salvation, but SOME of the Ziebart treatments just guaranteed the vehicle WOULD rust - by blocking drainage holes, and flaking loose after any damage, trapping moisture and salt between the ziebart film and the metal. Has a LOT of "Ziebart Initiated Rust Perforation " up here in those years. I had a bunch of people tell me that, and is the exact reason I didn't get my GMC pick up Z-Barted. Biggest mistake I ever made. My brother has a '95 Ford PU he had Z-barted and it looks brand new. One quarter panel rusts every other year, and the Z-bart guy fixes it free. Z-Bart of the '90s was much different than the Z-Bart of the '70s. It shouldn't be necessary for most vehicles (galvanized panels) but it wouldn't surprise me if GM cut corners. What really ****es me off is I really, really like my off road, 4 wheel drive, extended cab with towing package GMC truck. It's drive train is perfect, never had and engine or transmission problem. I put almost no miles on it now that I'm old, and would love to keep it the rest of my days. Not sure it will not turn into a pile of rust first. I can't justify buying another since I don't drive it much anymore, and won't likely be around anyway. The same truck today is around 50g's I think. Hard to decide, although I would likely will go with a good American truck, a Toyota... I went with an F150 because it was at least $15K less than the competition and just a good, if not better. I don't live in rust country anymore so that wasn't an issue. And a Ram would have been about the same amount less than the F. I call bull**** on that one. I haven't seen a new truck with a price tag of $10K for a *long* time. I wouldn't buy a Chrysler product if there were no other choice. Your choice. Based on the lowest cost full-sized 1/2 ton truck offering in Canadian prices in 2016 they rank like this: Dodge Ram $19995, F150 $19,999, Toyota Tundra 26750, GM $27207, and Nissan Titan $33898. Dolled up, Titan $39898, Ram $42595, GM $43875, Tundra $53780, and F150, WAY up there at $68195. That's all 2wd gasoline engine. So not quite as much of a jump at base price, but on a medium priced version the Ford and GM get a LOT closer together, A mid range Ram is $31k-ish, GM is 35K-ish and Ford is $45k-ish. I've had Dodge, GM and Ford - The only one I wouldn't buy is the GM. |
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