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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.

My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.

The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.

Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.


The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
style screw handles.

For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.

Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......

Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.

If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.

I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.

I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.

Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.



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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.

My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.

The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.

Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.


The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
style screw handles.

For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.

Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......

Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.

If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.

I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.

I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.

Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.



I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
make picture frames.
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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.

My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.

The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.

Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.


The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
style screw handles.

For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.

Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......

Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.

If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.

I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.

I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.

Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.



I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
make picture frames.

Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
if you weld, never use either.
if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.

After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.

--
Jeff

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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/7/2017 4:19 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.

My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.

The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.

Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.


The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
style screw handles.

For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.

Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......

Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.

If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.

I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.

I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.

Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.



I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
make picture frames.

Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
if you weld, never use either.
if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.

After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.

I don't weld, but occasionally burn the piece of wood that I am cutting
on my table saw ;-)


Even if the cleaner you use contains a clorohydrocarbon, it would take a
lot more that a trace on the material you are welding to cause any
problem, including health problems like the ones you mentioned. The
OSHA limits for exposure of an 8 hour period for from the attached MSDS
sheet is less 125 mg/cubic meter

That being said because of the organic materials in the cleaner, it
could be a flammability problem if you use a very large amount and then
start welding, as you could have created an explosive mixture.

This is an example of a c cleaner that contains a clorohydrocarbon.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS0...5-20060628.PDF

Personally I use a cheaper on called Supertech from Walmart

http://msdsdigital.com/system/files/document_14.pdf
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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/7/2017 6:07 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2017 4:19 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.

My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I
would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.

The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.

Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which
affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of
the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.


The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the
screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter
fly
style screw handles.

For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw
with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.

Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......

Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.

If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.

I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.

I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.

Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.



I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
make picture frames.

Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
if you weld, never use either.
if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.

After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.

I don't weld, but occasionally burn the piece of wood that I am cutting
on my table saw ;-)


Even if the cleaner you use contains a clorohydrocarbon, it would take a
lot more that a trace on the material you are welding to cause any
problem, including health problems like the ones you mentioned. The
OSHA limits for exposure of an 8 hour period for from the attached MSDS
sheet is less 125 mg/cubic meter

That being said because of the organic materials in the cleaner, it
could be a flammability problem if you use a very large amount and then
start welding, as you could have created an explosive mixture.

This is an example of a c cleaner that contains a clorohydrocarbon.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS0...5-20060628.PDF

Personally I use a cheaper on called Supertech from Walmart

http://msdsdigital.com/system/files/document_14.pdf



Ok, let me post this.
Unfortunately OSHA had the info, but it's now been pulled.
http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/20...t-get-careless


--
Jeff

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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

Keith Nuttle wrote in
news
As I indicated in my original post where I posted the MSGS sheet, not
all brake cleaners on carburator cleaners are created equal. I posted
a cleaner based on Methylene Chloride. You posted a brake cleaner
that contains tetraChloroethylene. The one I use Supertech contains
Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol and no chlorohydrocarbons. While they
are all flamable, and volatile, they are completely different
materials in the health hazards, and must be treated differently.


I believe tetrachloroethylene and know methylene chloride are the key
ingredients in plastic welding solvents. It's not just welding you need to
keep them away from, but many plastics.

Puckdropper
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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/7/17 1:23 PM, Leon wrote:


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.




Amen!

I have/had the same problem, thought the threads were galling in the
clamp. Grease helped but not as much as I had hoped.

A few drops of oil with a swamp cooler oiler did the trick. The oilers
long plastic tube reaches to the area where the ball of the screw enters
into the "foot".

-BR



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On 2/11/2017 9:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 2/7/17 1:23 PM, Leon wrote:


On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.

You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.




Amen!

I have/had the same problem, thought the threads were galling in the
clamp. Grease helped but not as much as I had hoped.

A few drops of oil with a swamp cooler oiler did the trick. The oilers
long plastic tube reaches to the area where the ball of the screw enters
into the "foot".

-BR



I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)
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On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 10:14:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)


But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left the track the second post after yours...

I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding feel after use. I was told back in the mid 70s (when the whole shop had something like 10 Pony pipe clamps!)to put a drop or two of "3 in 1" just where the clamp screw rotates in the clamp face. it was explained to me that the heavy clamping pressure could/would gall the inside of the contact surfaces and make them have that grinding feeling when compressing. About every 4 or 5 glue ups we would hand the pipes on a boards and apply the oil. We used those clamps for everything. Remember a day with no Besseys, no cabinet clamps like we know them today. I still have some 50 year old Pony clamps and even have two ancient bar clamps from the 1920s. The Pony clamps are used on occasion, but the bar clamps are bent and are more of a curiosity.

Strangely, I hadn't thought of it, but your comment hit home. I rarely use clamps anymore. My squeeze clamps are in constant use for all manner of things, sometimes just an extra set of holding hands. But my Besseys, my old Irwins, my no name aluminum bar clamps, and my Stanley brand pipe clamps and Ponys haven't been touched in a really long time.

I do appreciate the comment on the wood Jorgensons. I have watched mine "relax" more than once, and gave all but one or two away since I thought they were defective! I thought the dirty threads would make them stick more, but if you think about it, the dirt probably acted more as a lubricant, keeping the friction quotient too low for them to work properly. That's a good tip!

Robert
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On 2/11/2017 11:56 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 10:14:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)


But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
the track the second post after yours...


LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many tangents.



I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding
feel after use.


I had no doubt that you would already know this.

I was told back in the mid 70s (when the whole shop
had something like 10 Pony pipe clamps!)to put a drop or two of "3 in
1" just where the clamp screw rotates in the clamp face. it was
explained to me that the heavy clamping pressure could/would gall the
inside of the contact surfaces and make them have that grinding
feeling when compressing. About every 4 or 5 glue ups we would hand
the pipes on a boards and apply the oil. We used those clamps for
everything. Remember a day with no Besseys, no cabinet clamps like
we know them today. I still have some 50 year old Pony clamps and
even have two ancient bar clamps from the 1920s. The Pony clamps are
used on occasion, but the bar clamps are bent and are more of a
curiosity.

Strangely, I hadn't thought of it, but your comment hit home. I
rarely use clamps anymore. My squeeze clamps are in constant use for
all manner of things, sometimes just an extra set of holding hands.
But my Besseys, my old Irwins, my no name aluminum bar clamps, and my
Stanley brand pipe clamps and Ponys haven't been touched in a really
long time.

I do appreciate the comment on the wood Jorgensons. I have watched
mine "relax" more than once, and gave all but one or two away since I
thought they were defective! I thought the dirty threads would make
them stick more, but if you think about it, the dirt probably acted
more as a lubricant, keeping the friction quotient too low for them
to work properly. That's a good tip!

Robert


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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
..
But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
the track the second post after yours...


LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many tangents.


Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:

Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps.
1st response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps.
2nd response: Hah! My sister in law weighs a ton!
3rd response: She is lucky the nanny state police don't get on her about her weight!
4th response: Screw safety devices. We may not be forced to use them yet, but the nanny state could make us one day. Down with retail tyranny and heavy handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger before they can get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right to do it!
5th response: I like pie!
6th response: Me too!


I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding
feel after use.


I had no doubt that you would already know this.


Well... with 40 plus years of doing this stuff for days/weeks/years on end you are bound to learn something. Even then, note that I pointed out someone showed me how to take care of that problem. That could be one of those things (like my comment on my Jorgensons) that I just never figured out.

The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet go unnoticed.

Robert
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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

On 2/13/2017 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote: .
But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got
from a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the
engine left the track the second post after yours...


LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many
tangents.


Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:

Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps. 1st
response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps. 2nd response: Hah!
My sister in law weighs a ton! 3rd response: She is lucky the nanny
state police don't get on her about her weight! 4th response: Screw
safety devices. We may not be forced to use them yet, but the nanny
state could make us one day. Down with retail tyranny and heavy
handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger before they can
get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right to do it! 5th
response: I like pie! 6th response: Me too!


I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its
grinding feel after use.


I had no doubt that you would already know this.


Well... with 40 plus years of doing this stuff for days/weeks/years
on end you are bound to learn something. Even then, note that I
pointed out someone showed me how to take care of that problem. That
could be one of those things (like my comment on my Jorgensons) that
I just never figured out.

The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful//
yet go unnoticed.

Robert


Unnoticed being the key word. Or possibly the clamps are not being used
enough to need any TLC, YET. ;~)






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On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 4:26:57 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:

[on clamp maintenance]

Unnoticed being the key word. Or possibly the clamps are not being used
enough to need any TLC, YET. ;~)


One of my favorite glue clamps is a piece of 2x6. A one foot section
of steel, 2" by 6" cross section, weighs about 40 lbs. It's very low maintenance,
and in conjunction with some polyethylene foam, clamps even irregular surfaces effectively.
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" wrote in
:

*snip*


The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet
go unnoticed.

Robert


Hint taken, I'll add this to my little rec.working archive soon!

Puckdropper
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On 2/13/2017 9:51 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
" wrote in
:

*snip*


The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet
go unnoticed.

Robert


Hint taken, I'll add this to my little rec.working archive soon!

Puckdropper



Does this mean I am being published? yipeeee LOL
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On 2/13/2017 10:16 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/13/2017 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
the track the second post after yours...

LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many
tangents.


Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:

Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps.
1st response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps.
2nd response: Hah! My sister in law weighs a ton!
3rd response: She is lucky the nanny state police don't get on her
about her weight!





Number 4 is my favorite.

4th response: Screw safety devices. We may not be forced to use them
yet, but the nanny state could make us one day. Down with retail
tyranny and heavy handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger
before they can get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right
to do it!


I recall the quote going more like this.

That no good nasty sucker is about the out-smarting'est man that I have
ever seen. I will never save up to buy any product of this
in-vent-er/future government hot shot.
We are loose'n our rights to make emotional buying choices about our
saw's.
So I am not stubbern enough not mention about cutting myself with my TS,
hell I'm right here typing. I'll admit it, it was my fault, not the
saws fault. So there is no reason to blame the saw cause it was not a SS.

Guys! since this accident was not really an accident, what could I have
done differently to have prevented this.

Leon: SawStop.

Back to number 4

Finger looked like hamburger and hurt like hell.

5. What kind of saw was it?
6. Wasn't a SawStop.
7. If you multiply pi times the measurement across the blade and do
some other calculations you end up with a number.
8. I like pie


That there was funny, huh! I don't care who you are.

5th response: I like pie!
6th response: Me too!




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Default A tip for lubricating you clamps.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:6YmdndxUrbFtHj_FnZ2dnUU7-I-
:



Does this mean I am being published? yipeeee LOL


Yes, but Swingman's still my number 1. :-)

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