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Default 2 christmas projects.

http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each has a
different look to identify your tray/food/wine.


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woodchucker wrote in
:

http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



What would make that hockey end table complete would be a lamp that used a
helmet as a shade! With new LED bulbs, heat won't be too much of a
problem.

Puckdropper
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Default 2 christmas projects.


http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



What would make that hockey end table complete would be a lamp that used a
helmet as a shade! With new LED bulbs, heat won't be too much of a
problem.
Puckdropper



Yeah ! - find an old Butch Goring model ..

http://www.mbhockeyhalloffame.ca/ass...tchHelmets.jpg

John T.
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woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each has a
different look to identify your tray/food/wine.


Not a hockey fan, but I love the appetizer trays. Are the stripes
inlaid or painted?

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GW Ross







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Default 2 christmas projects.

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 2:58:02 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each has a
different look to identify your tray/food/wine.


--
Jeff


Very nice.

I like watching hockey, but I don't know all the rules, like (seemingly) different ways to be off sides. I don't know the different ways, so I can't comprehend the whats or whys about that, when it happens. I don't know (probably) most of the blue line rules, either. And I don't know the strategies of the game, except, now and then, when an announcer describes the preceding action (replay), leading up to the results.

After reading others' helmet comments, I thought....
Humpf! Real hockey players don't wear helmets. LOL

Sonny


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On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.


Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.
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On 1/6/2017 11:51 AM, G. Ross wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a
different look to identify your tray/food/wine.


Not a hockey fan, but I love the appetizer trays. Are the stripes
inlaid or painted?


Not inlaid, and not painted... Full depth, part of the glueup.

--
Jeff

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Sonny wrote in
:


Very nice.

I like watching hockey, but I don't know all the rules, like
(seemingly) different ways to be off sides. I don't know the
different ways, so I can't comprehend the whats or whys about that,
when it happens. I don't know (probably) most of the blue line rules,
either. And I don't know the strategies of the game, except, now and
then, when an announcer describes the preceding action (replay),
leading up to the results.

After reading others' helmet comments, I thought....
Humpf! Real hockey players don't wear helmets. LOL

Sonny


My helmet has saved me from at least 4 trips to the hospital. Real
hockey players wear helmets if they want to keep playing!

The last time wasn't all that long ago. I was turning from skating
forwards to backwards (we do it all the time) and I caught a bad spot in
the ice. My helmet hit the ice with my head safely protected inside it.
There was no time to do anything, it was just hit the bad spot and fall
down.

Puckdropper
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On Thu, 5 Jan 2017 15:57:53 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each has a
different look to identify your tray/food/wine.


Both very nice, but the trays? Awesome. Put some tracks on the bottom
for skate board wells, and send them down the bar, for snacks and
drinks!.

Just kidding, suckers are da bomb!
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On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.


Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I have seen far less impressive pieces hanging on a wall of an art
gallery, for big money.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.



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On Fri, 06 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon wrote:

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.


That's spectacular work, Leon! Thanks for the pictures and a bad case of
"I hope I can get that good".

Cheers,
Colin

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On 1/8/2017 5:49 PM, Colin Campbell wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon wrote:

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.


That's spectacular work, Leon! Thanks for the pictures and a bad case of
"I hope I can get that good".

Cheers,
Colin



Thank you
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OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.


Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I have seen far less impressive pieces hanging on a wall of an art
gallery, for big money.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.


Looks like each strip is actually three strips. Is that so?

--
GW Ross







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On 1/9/2017 6:45 AM, G. Ross wrote:
OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I have seen far less impressive pieces hanging on a wall of an art
gallery, for big money.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.


Looks like each strip is actually three strips. Is that so?


Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.

The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.

Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.

With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.

Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
of stripes.






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On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 11:08:58 PM UTC-5, wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



What would make that hockey end table complete would be a lamp that used a
helmet as a shade! With new LED bulbs, heat won't be too much of a
problem.


Helmets are for wimps. Real hockey lamps don't wear shades. ;-)

https://www.reddit.com/r/sports/comm...snt_for_wimps/



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Leon wrote:
On 1/9/2017 6:45 AM, G. Ross wrote:
OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I have seen far less impressive pieces hanging on a wall of an art
gallery, for big money.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.

Looks like each strip is actually three strips. Is that so?


Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.

The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.

Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.

With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.

Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
of stripes.






Wow! That amounts to a real project.

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GW Ross







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DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Helmets are for wimps. Real hockey lamps don't wear shades. ;-)

https://www.reddit.com/r/sports/comm...l_hockey_wasnt
_for_wimps/


This wimp is glad to be unhurt and maybe even alive! That helmet has
saved me at least 4 trips to a hospital and left me basically unhurt each
time. The last time, I hit a bad spot in the ice and fell over
backwards. There was NO way to protect myself.

The game is different than it was in Bobby Hull's day. He made sure of
that with the curved stick, and Stan Makita, his teammate made sure of it
too! He developed the first usable hockey helmet. Mark Messier's work
with developing the M11 helmet took things to the next level. If
anyone's still playing with the older helmets, go take a look at the new
ones (Bauer owns the M11 line now). They are the most comfortable
helmets you'll ever wear!

Puckdropper
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On 1/9/2017 6:13 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Helmets are for wimps. Real hockey lamps don't wear shades. ;-)

https://www.reddit.com/r/sports/comm...l_hockey_wasnt
_for_wimps/


This wimp is glad to be unhurt and maybe even alive! That helmet has
saved me at least 4 trips to a hospital and left me basically unhurt each
time. The last time, I hit a bad spot in the ice and fell over
backwards. There was NO way to protect myself.



Remember Gary Busey? He did not like helmets either.




The game is different than it was in Bobby Hull's day. He made sure of
that with the curved stick, and Stan Makita, his teammate made sure of it
too! He developed the first usable hockey helmet. Mark Messier's work
with developing the M11 helmet took things to the next level. If
anyone's still playing with the older helmets, go take a look at the new
ones (Bauer owns the M11 line now). They are the most comfortable
helmets you'll ever wear!

Puckdropper


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On Mon, 9 Jan 2017 09:11:55 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/9/2017 6:45 AM, G. Ross wrote:
OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 13:38:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 1/5/2017 2:57 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://imgur.com/a/iFR63 Hockey end table.

Jeez! That is cool in an eerie kind of way. ;~)



http://imgur.com/a/cialU Appetizer trays / wine glass holder. Each
has a different look to identify your tray/food/wine.



Very nice! I was thinking about building a dozen or so this year but
ran out of time.

Give this a try next year. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I have seen far less impressive pieces hanging on a wall of an art
gallery, for big money.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Because you are dealing with two different radius arcs for each run you
have to remove the exact same amount of material as what you are
replacing it with.

Looks like each strip is actually three strips. Is that so?


Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.

The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.


I would have guessed that you cut, glued, cut... In any case,
they're beautiful. I'll show SWMBO the beds but not those.

Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.

With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.

Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
of stripes.





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On 1/9/17 8:11 AM, Leon wrote:


Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.

The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.

Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.

With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.

Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
of stripes.







I've made a few of these after seeing the technique in FWW. I like
Leon's idea of the first pattern bit and template, I've always used a
guide bushing on the router table and one _must_ keep the board square
to the bit (no rotation allowed). Works good for simple curves but
errors creep in if one is not careful.

Leon, how long is your pattern bit? The bits I have would require a
template at least 3/4" thick.

The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994

There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx

-BR



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On 1/14/2017 9:50 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/9/17 8:11 AM, Leon wrote:


Actually most, the wider looking ones, are 1/2" and made up of 4, 1/8"
wide strips. Sometimes 1 walnut, 2 maple, and another walnut.

The trick is to insure that the strips will add up exactly to the width
that you remove.

Typically I use a pattern to guide a 1/2" top bearing flush cut bit to
cut about 1/8" deep into the glued up cutting board. I then cut down
that grove with the BS. Now the cutting board is two pieces.

With a larger flush cut bit I remove the remainder of the wood that the
1/2" bit started removing. The bearing rides against the 1/8" recess
created by the 1/2" bit.

Then sandwich and glue them all, the thin strips and the cutting board
pieces, back together. Do this whole procedure for each individual set
of stripes.







I've made a few of these after seeing the technique in FWW. I like
Leon's idea of the first pattern bit and template, I've always used a
guide bushing on the router table and one _must_ keep the board square
to the bit (no rotation allowed). Works good for simple curves but
errors creep in if one is not careful.

Leon, how long is your pattern bit? The bits I have would require a
template at least 3/4" thick.


I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.


After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.




The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994

There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx


That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.

A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.

Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during clamping.

2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.



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On 1/14/17 9:12 AM, Leon wrote:

I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.


I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use
the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than
what I've been doing.



After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.


Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut
it all up again 8^)



The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994

There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx


That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.

A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.

Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during
clamping.


Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that
leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.

2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.


End cauls too!

I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set
into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy.
Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started
having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and
shearing due to the slight wood movement). Everything is TB3 now, but
with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.

Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay
step without a drum sander?

-BR





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On 1/15/2017 9:33 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/14/17 9:12 AM, Leon wrote:

I use a cheap 1/4" shank, 1/2" wide x 1/2" long top bearing flush cut
bit for the initial grove. My template was 3/4" MDF, easy to shape and
smooth the arcs. Done with a hand held trim router.


I see. I tend to use 1/4" hardboard, easier to shape, but I'll now use
the hardboard as a template for some 3/4" MDF. Seems way easier than
what I've been doing.


A small bit like I described above would require you to make a 1/2" deep
initial grove if I you use 1/4" pattern material. With a 1/4" shank bit
I really prefer to just go about 1/8" deep especially in maple.






After cutting down the middle of the groove with my BS I use a
1"diameter flush trim bit in my router table. the bearing rides along
the first grove and cleans up the remaining 5/8" of material.


Yep, same here. It's kind of eerie to make a "perfect" inlay, then vut
it all up again 8^)


LOL yeah, you are successful in gluing in the strips and clamping and
planing the proud part of the strips and sanding a bit.......then do
that 2 more times on the same board.

Not totally unlike making 3 times as many cutting boards with straight
decorative strips.





The latest ones:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/263994

There is a short FWW video of the process (if you can finish it with out
barfing from the vertigo 8^)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...oard-ever.aspx



That is the one I watched to learn how to do this.

A couple of suggestions and the video shows this but you have to be
looking for it.

Clamping is challenging.
1. Cut your strips so that they are proud of the top and bottom surface
of the cutting board halves by about 1/4", They slip a bit during
clamping.


Sure do! I tend to make the parts 1-1/2" for a 1" board. All that
leveling and cutting takes its toll on thickness.

2. Cut a grove in the cauls for the thin strips to pass through during
the clamp up.


End cauls too!


I do not recall using end cauls, I think I just whacked the ends with a
hammer and square cut the ends after the last glue up.




I had issues at first with getting everything coated with glue and set
into the clamps before things began to set up. I then switched to epoxy.


I used TBIII and had my wife assist, that went pretty fast but the epoxy
is probably the best solution for open time and strength in the long run.



Expensive, but the extended work time was a blessing. Then I started
having issues with the epoxy failing (probably from being rigid and
shearing due to the slight wood movement).


OOps nix my comment above.... ;~)



Everything is TB3 now, but
with plenty of sloppy squeeze out I manage to get to the clamps in time.


LOL well only nix the second half of my comment two responses up.



Can you imagine making the strips and doing the leveling at each inlay
step without a drum sander?


The drum sander certainly makes it easier but I would imagine a belt
sander would suffice.





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