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I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The
only difference is the arched rails.

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Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each.
The only difference is the arched rails.


I strongly prefer the version with arches. Of course, whichever details
you choose should fit with it's destination (as to "form and
function"). All that work and no drawer??? : )

Bill


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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
...
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left and
right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The only
difference is the arched rails.


I prefer the arched one.

What I don't care for are all the protrusions...tenons, splines, legs. I
know you are itching to make them but I find them distracting...they
interrupt the visual flow.

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On 4/10/2015 6:08 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The
only difference is the arched rails.

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The arches! Breaks up all the straight lines. I almost always add
curves or arches to my pieces now.
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On 4/10/2015 7:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
...
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left and
right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The only
difference is the arched rails.


I prefer the arched one.

What I don't care for are all the protrusions...tenons, splines, legs. I
know you are itching to make them but I find them distracting...they
interrupt the visual flow.

"Itching" may not be quite accurate. It's more a combination of
"intrigued" and "afraid".

But I will whip up some variations and see what I think. Thanks.


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On 4/10/2015 7:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/



I prefer the arched one.

What I don't care for are all the protrusions...tenons, splines, legs. I
know you are itching to make them but I find them distracting...they
interrupt the visual flow.


Arched one here too, but I like the protrusions. Looking forward so
seeing the finished product.

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On 4/10/2015 7:08 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The
only difference is the arched rails.

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Arches

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On 4/10/2015 7:08 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/


You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The
only difference is the arched rails.

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I prefer the arched aprons.
They are visually more pleasing, and go well with that look.
But that's just my opinion.

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Greg Guarino wrote in
:

I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...3215/in/album-
72157639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...0957/in/album-
72157639547178715/


Hmmm, not as easy to answer as I first thought.

The arches definately lighten the piece. OTOH, they tend to
make the legs look a little heavy and blocky. I don't think
you'd want to taper the legs because of the mortise-tenon
for the lower rails. Maybe a stopped chamfer would complement
the arch?

The non-arched version has something to say for itself in
it's simplicity - square legs, square rails, square top, kind
of a repeating theme (*).

You'd almost have to build both of them and see them "in
the flesh" to really know which is better.

John

(* "square" as in rectilinear, not literally all four sides
the same)
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On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 07:08:48 -0400
Greg Guarino wrote:

left and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of
each. The only difference is the arched rails.


change the arch so the curve's up
the luck won't run out?

















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I do like the subtle arch.
And I like showing the joinery.
Very nice. yes, I would like to see a finished project.
John

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left
and right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The
only difference is the arched rails.

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John McCoy wrote:
You'd almost have to build both of them and see them "in the flesh" to
really know which is better.


I don't think I'd want to build a kitchen for you!

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On 4/10/2015 7:22 AM, Bill wrote:
All that work and no drawer???


This must be my 15th design for an end table; not that I've *built* any,
mind you. Some had drawers. But we don't particularly need drawers,
and this design does have a storage nook under the middle panel. It's
not that practical, but it's cute and we'll probably store pens and
coasters in there.

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On 4/10/2015 4:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Looking forward so seeing the finished product.


Me too. But I work slowly (not on purpose, it just turns out that way)
and I don't have a lot of spare time. So expect a few months lead time.


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On 4/10/2015 8:12 PM, John McCoy wrote:
You'd almost have to build both of them and see them "in
the flesh" to really know which is better.


I see you are not acquainted with my pace of work and my available time.



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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
...
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7639547178715/

You can actually switch between the designs more easily with your left and
right arrows. You'll get perspective and parallel views of each. The only
difference is the arched rails.



I think its going to be a matter of matching your other furniture rather
than an over riding question of preference.



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On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 8:12:26 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:

change the arch so the curve's up
the luck won't run out?



He hasn't told us, yet, but the arch curving up design is for his next set of side tables, shoulder-arch-shoulder contour, with a shell or scalloped carving (or applique) centered on each arch. : ) This thread is his sneaky, subtle way of poking us with a pointy stick, before he springs this other design idea, on us.

I vote for the arched design.

Sonny
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Greg Guarino wrote in
:

On 4/10/2015 8:12 PM, John McCoy wrote:
You'd almost have to build both of them and see them "in
the flesh" to really know which is better.


I see you are not acquainted with my pace of work and my available
time.


When I was younger and had more energy, I'd sometimes build
something out of construction lumber & plywood to see what
it looked like, and then do it over in quality wood.

Now, like you, I find I only have enthusiasm to do things
once.

That said, you could mock up just the rails both ways
and dry-fit them to see which you liked better.

John
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On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 05:26:39 -0700 (PDT)
Sonny wrote:

He hasn't told us, yet, but the arch curving up design is for his
next set of side tables, shoulder-arch-shoulder contour, with a shell
or scalloped carving (or applique) centered on each arch. : ) This
thread is his sneaky, subtle way of poking us with a pointy stick,
before he springs this other design idea, on us.


interesting
will have to wait and see

















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On 4/10/2015 6:08 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:


Another approach for consideration: not uncommon in this style of
furniture to arch just the bottom rail and leave the top rail straight.

That can work nicely if you also taper the inside faces of the legs:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0561129766 42

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...4962 59490898


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On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 8:13:49 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote in
:

I'm still tweaking my design. I'm curious to know who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...3215/in/album-
72157639547178715/

and who prefers this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...0957/in/album-
72157639547178715/


Hmmm, not as easy to answer as I first thought.

The arches definately lighten the piece. OTOH, they tend to
make the legs look a little heavy and blocky. I don't think
you'd want to taper the legs because of the mortise-tenon
for the lower rails. Maybe a stopped chamfer would complement
the arch?

The non-arched version has something to say for itself in
it's simplicity - square legs, square rails, square top, kind
of a repeating theme (*).

You'd almost have to build both of them and see them "in
the flesh" to really know which is better.


Anyone have a 3D printer lying around?
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Bill wrote:

I strongly prefer the version with arches. Of course, whichever
details you choose should fit with it's destination (as to "form and
function"). All that work and no drawer??? : )

Bill


By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill
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Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:

I strongly prefer the version with arches. Of course, whichever
details you choose should fit with it's destination (as to "form and
function"). All that work and no drawer??? : )

Bill


By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill

I hate to carry on these conversations with myself--it seems to bother
some folks. But I guess modern cabinet hinges are often so adjustable
that there are just "easier options" than planing.
What do you think, Bill?

Bill


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Bill wrote in
:

The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.


Apologies for jumping into your conversation, but I plane
cabinet doors. I don't get "perfect" reveals (or anything
close) since that's a skill I'm still working on, but
that's the intention.

As an aside, I've found a Yankee spiral screwdriver the
perfect tool for cabinet hinges. You end up installing
and removing the doors a dozen times to get them to fit,
the Yankee screwdriver lets me hold the door with one
hand while screwing/unscrewing with the other, and it's
more controlable on the tiny hinge screws than a power
driver.

John
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On 4/12/2015 2:18 AM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:

I strongly prefer the version with arches. Of course, whichever
details you choose should fit with it's destination (as to "form and
function"). All that work and no drawer??? : )

Bill


By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill


I did not read the article but what part do they plane, the edges or the
front? If your drawer slides inside the opening squarely, into a
squarely built cabinet at it should not need to be planed at all.

I do however plane the edges of inset doors to produce the perfect reveal.

FWIW These drawers are side hung and while I did not plane at all I did
run the drawers through the drum sander to create equal spacing between
the tops and bottoms of the drawers. I built two of these chests.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4335052930/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4080828302/



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On 4/12/2015 3:25 AM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:

I strongly prefer the version with arches. Of course, whichever
details you choose should fit with it's destination (as to "form and
function"). All that work and no drawer??? : )

Bill


By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill

I hate to carry on these conversations with myself--it seems to bother
some folks. But I guess modern cabinet hinges are often so adjustable
that there are just "easier options" than planing.
What do you think, Bill?

Bill


Euro hinges tend to fit tight, meaning there is no slop in their action.
Typical hinges that have two wings to attach to the door and cabinet
often have a lot of slop and no adjustment at all for alignment.
I try to use Euro style hinges if at all possible.
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Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill


I did not read the article but what part do they plane, the edges or
the front?


Thank you for your reply! I realized after I posted, that instead
of the front, I should have written "the edges of the front". It
appears that's the same way you do it (nice work!). I see that hanging
an inset cabinet door is even more "troublesome" than I thought it might be!

Bill


If your drawer slides inside the opening squarely, into a squarely
built cabinet at it should not need to be planed at all.

I do however plane the edges of inset doors to produce the perfect
reveal.

FWIW These drawers are side hung and while I did not plane at all I
did run the drawers through the drum sander to create equal spacing
between the tops and bottoms of the drawers. I built two of these
chests.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4335052930/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4080828302/


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On 4/12/2015 10:30 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
By the way, the Jun/2015 issue of FWW has an interesting article on
"side hung drawers". The last step performed, to achieve "perfect"
reveals, was to plane the front of the drawer. It made me wonder
whether Swingman, and others, do that when they fit inset cabinet doors.

Bill


I did not read the article but what part do they plane, the edges or
the front?


Thank you for your reply! I realized after I posted, that instead
of the front, I should have written "the edges of the front". It
appears that's the same way you do it (nice work!). I see that hanging
an inset cabinet door is even more "troublesome" than I thought it might
be!


I sneaked up on the perfect "width" fit when cutting the length of the
fronts. I built the height of the drawers to be a tight fit and drum
sanded the tops and bottoms to fit the the reveal you see. Then I glued
the tiger maple veneer onto the drawer fronts.

Hanging inset doors are troublesome too. Typically they are much larger
than a drawer and large openings lend themselves to sometimes not be
perfectly square or there might be a slight bow to the cabinet face
frame stiles. In a small opening situation this is usually easier to
deal with. And If you use the typical hinge there is no adjustment.
I had to deal with that here, on the two upper doors on each cabinet.
The drawers are inset too but not nearly as problematic.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4242237973/

These doors and drawers are inset too except on this job I used
concealed Euro hinges and that made adjustments for the doors much much
easier.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

I try to design with overlay doors and drawers to simplify the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15554060238/




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On Monday, April 13, 2015 at 10:31:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 4/12/2015 10:30 PM, Bill wrote:


As a last resort, if you ever have a visual results screw up, per alignment (gaps), with the fitting of an inset door, and if the design (face edges) permits, then a bead trim (edging) can be used to help take your eye away from a slight misalignment issue.

Sonny
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Leon wrote:

I sneaked up on the perfect "width" fit when cutting the length of
the fronts. I built the height of the drawers to be a tight fit and
drum sanded the tops and bottoms to fit the the reveal you see. Then
I glued the tiger maple veneer onto the drawer fronts.

That is a clever thought (no doubt one would learn this from experience)!


Hanging inset doors are troublesome too. Typically they are much
larger than a drawer and large openings lend themselves to sometimes
not be perfectly square or there might be a slight bow to the cabinet
face frame stiles. In a small opening situation this is usually easier
to deal with. And If you use the typical hinge there is no adjustment.
I had to deal with that here, on the two upper doors on each cabinet.
The drawers are inset too but not nearly as problematic.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4242237973/

These doors and drawers are inset too except on this job I used
concealed Euro hinges and that made adjustments for the doors much
much easier.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

I try to design with overlay doors and drawers to simplify the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15554060238/


Nice projects; thank you for a good lesson! I think I would probably be
wise to
start with overlay doors and drawers.

Bill







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Leon wrote:

Hanging inset doors are troublesome too. Typically they are much
larger than a drawer and large openings lend themselves to sometimes
not be perfectly square or there might be a slight bow to the cabinet
face


Oh, I am SOOOO glad to know that I am not the only one to get less than
square openings. Onrare occasion, of course

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net


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"dadiOH" wrote in :

Leon wrote:

Hanging inset doors are troublesome too. Typically they are much
larger than a drawer and large openings lend themselves to sometimes
not be perfectly square or there might be a slight bow to the cabinet
face


Oh, I am SOOOO glad to know that I am not the only one to get less than
square openings. Onrare occasion, of course


Man, I had the exact same thought :-)

John

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