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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

I was sloppy and left a little polyurethane (water-based) to dry on an expensive brush. Vigorous washing in warm soapy water followed by pet combing worked well; it's almost as good as new.
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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

I just did the same thing. I hope my brush isn't ruined. I soaked it in hot soapy water and it is still hard..
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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 11:48:39 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I just did the same thing. I hope my brush isn't ruined. I soaked it in hot soapy water and it is still hard..


My personal opinion is that most people don't clean their paint equipment properly. Not brushes, not rollers, not guns... none of it.

If you have a brush with dried material on it, it is now a "dusting" brush. No longer will it give a satisfactory finish.

Once the material has dried and lost its plasticity, it is simply a hard resin or even plastic. You can revive the to some extent with a good quality stripper, or do the right thing and clean brushes and rollers immediately after use with the correct solvent.

BTW, using a pet comb, a wire brush or any other kind of device to "comb" or tear out the dried residue will ruin the brush for everything except painting rough sawn exterior materials. The flags (flagging) on brush bristles that leave the fine finish are torn apart and in some cases completely off the brush when a wire comb or brush is used on them. Additionally, they will not remove any of the dried residue in the brush well, so in effect you are simply wasting time unless you need a good duster.

Robert
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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

wrote:
On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 11:48:39 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I just did the same thing. I hope my brush isn't ruined. I soaked it in hot soapy water and it is still hard..

My personal opinion is that most people don't clean their paint equipment properly. Not brushes, not rollers, not guns... none of it.

I agree with you. I found it handy to learn (here) that I
could put the brushes and rollers (wrapped) in the refrigerator if I
needed to take a break. It worked great.



If you have a brush with dried material on it, it is now a "dusting" brush. No longer will it give a satisfactory finish.

Once the material has dried and lost its plasticity, it is simply a hard resin or even plastic. You can revive the to some extent with a good quality stripper, or do the right thing and clean brushes and rollers immediately after use with the correct solvent.

BTW, using a pet comb, a wire brush or any other kind of device to "comb" or tear out the dried residue will ruin the brush for everything except painting rough sawn exterior materials. The flags (flagging) on brush bristles that leave the fine finish are torn apart and in some cases completely off the brush when a wire comb or brush is used on them. Additionally, they will not remove any of the dried residue in the brush well, so in effect you are simply wasting time unless you need a good duster.

Robert


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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

On 5/16/2015 1:45 AM, wrote:
On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 11:48:39 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I just did the same thing. I hope my brush isn't ruined. I soaked it in hot soapy water and it is still hard..


My personal opinion is that most people don't clean their paint equipment properly. Not brushes, not rollers, not guns... none of it.

If you have a brush with dried material on it, it is now a "dusting" brush. No longer will it give a satisfactory finish.

Once the material has dried and lost its plasticity, it is simply a hard resin or even plastic. You can revive the to some extent with a good quality stripper, or do the right thing and clean brushes and rollers immediately after use with the correct solvent.

BTW, using a pet comb, a wire brush or any other kind of device to "comb" or tear out the dried residue will ruin the brush for everything except painting rough sawn exterior materials. The flags (flagging) on brush bristles that leave the fine finish are torn apart and in some cases completely off the brush when a wire comb or brush is used on them. Additionally, they will not remove any of the dried residue in the brush well, so in effect you are simply wasting time unless you need a good duster.

Robert



I clean everything immediately and often a couple of times in a day if I
am painting all day long. BUT rollers get slid off the handle into a
plastic bag and tossed into the trash can... I have wasted way too much
time cleaning rollers in the past.


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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 9:41:03 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I clean everything immediately and often a couple of times in a day if I
am painting all day long. BUT rollers get slid off the handle into a
plastic bag and tossed into the trash can... I have wasted way too much
time cleaning rollers in the past.


For me, it depends on the use of the item and how long it has been in service. A good 1/2" or 3/4" nap roller is too expensive to throw out, so if it is fairly new it gets cleaned.

If I am walling out a room then going on my way I will usually factor in an inexpensive 3/8" nap roller and toss it for the simple sake of expediency.

I paint out of a bucket when using rollers and can use a roller for many hours with a bit of care. If I need to stop, I pull the roller screen out, put the roller all the way in the bucket and put a lid on it. It will stay covered with no ill effects for a few hours. If I have used a roller cover all day, I generally toss them. And if I am paying a guy to paint for me, the $3.50 I have in the roller won't go very far for the 15 to 20 minutes of pay it takes to clean a roller.

The only time I am sure I am going to toss a roller is when using them for oil application. I roll out metal doors and most interior doors when using oil based enamel, and the rollers simply aren't worth cleaning. And those little 4 and 6" weenie rollers are pretty inexpensive so they are easily disposable.

Robert
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Default Brush Cleaning after Polyurethane

On Sat, 16 May 2015 09:40:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/16/2015 1:45 AM, wrote:
On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 11:48:39 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I just did the same thing. I hope my brush isn't ruined. I soaked it in hot soapy water and it is still hard..


My personal opinion is that most people don't clean their paint equipment properly. Not brushes, not rollers, not guns... none of it.

If you have a brush with dried material on it, it is now a "dusting" brush. No longer will it give a satisfactory finish.

Once the material has dried and lost its plasticity, it is simply a hard resin or even plastic. You can revive the to some extent with a good quality stripper, or do the right thing and clean brushes and rollers immediately after use with the correct solvent.

BTW, using a pet comb, a wire brush or any other kind of device to "comb" or tear out the dried residue will ruin the brush for everything except painting rough sawn exterior materials. The flags (flagging) on brush bristles that leave the fine finish are torn apart and in some cases completely off the brush when a wire comb or brush is used on them. Additionally, they will not remove any of the dried residue in the brush well, so in effect you are simply wasting time unless you need a good duster.

Robert



I clean everything immediately and often a couple of times in a day if I
am painting all day long. BUT rollers get slid off the handle into a
plastic bag and tossed into the trash can... I have wasted way too much
time cleaning rollers in the past.


I have a spinner, I do clean roller covers and brushes when I use
them. Most of my destroyed brushes have been when my wife packs them
in a plastic bag for over night, drives the paint into places where it
should not be. Throwing out $50 in good brushes happens and it sucks.

Mark
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