The headboard Job
 

I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian
Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

The headboard Job
 

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian Cherry.
The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but I
still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a distance
almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Tongue firmly in cheek

The problem here is very obvious Leon. YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!!

Time to break down and buy some of those new Festool Ten Footers!! LOL

Seriously though, that was a good solution utilizing what you had laying
around. ;)

The headboard Job
 

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian
Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Bessey makes a widget that splices two parallel clamps end-to-end. It
might work for yours, if they don't have a similar widget.

The headboard Job
 

On Monday, August 11, 2014 8:08:14 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
I have been commissioned to build a headboard.

Nice, as is the clamping solution.

I like your work table, also. I have one similar to it.

Sonny

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 8:30 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being
constructed with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes
Georgian Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together
but I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Tongue firmly in cheek

The problem here is very obvious Leon. YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!!

I knowwwwwwww. LOL, The problem is that 8 footers are damn expensive
and I needed 4 and you would never have enough 8 footers that would
mostly collect dust. ;~( I am working on an idea using a couple of
2x4' with a stop on each end on opposite sides. One side stop would
grab the wood and the other end opposite side stop would allow a short
clamp to grip. Two of those and one clamp would work.



Time to break down and buy some of those new Festool Ten Footers!! LOL

Seriously though, that was a good solution utilizing what you had laying
around. ;)

Thank you. the only problem is that the panel wanted to bow, hence the
short clamps on each corner

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 8:39 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian
Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Bessey makes a widget that splices two parallel clamps end-to-end. It
might work for yours, if they don't have a similar widget.



I have a couple of the Bessy unions, I needed two more and more Bessey
clamps. My preference in clamps is the Orange Cabinet Masters.

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 9:09 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, August 11, 2014 8:08:14 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
I have been commissioned to build a headboard.

Nice, as is the clamping solution.

Thank you!

I like your work table, also. I have one similar to it.

Sonny



Takes the fear of being cut, during clamping, out of the mix. LOL. It
was a nice flat surface.. The Sawstop glue table works as well as the
old Jet glue up table. :~)

The headboard Job
 

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
eb.com...



"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian Cherry.
The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but I
still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a distance
almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Tongue firmly in cheek

The problem here is very obvious Leon. YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!!

Time to break down and buy some of those new Festool Ten Footers!! LOL

Seriously though, that was a good solution utilizing what you had laying
around. ;)

Very good idea .. I like. WW

The headboard Job
 

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon wrote:

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

I don't use my pipe clamps a lot, but I've got a 3' pipe and a 5' pipe
for each one. That way I can go to 8' without having a lot of extra pipe
when I don't need it. I've only needed the whole length a couple of
times, but it was nice not having to rush out to buy the pipe :-)

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 12:43 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon wrote:

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

I don't use my pipe clamps a lot, but I've got a 3' pipe and a 5' pipe
for each one. That way I can go to 8' without having a lot of extra pipe
when I don't need it. I've only needed the whole length a couple of
times, but it was nice not having to rush out to buy the pipe :-)

I've done the same thing. And the price of the "clamp unions" is very
reasonable. :)

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The headboard Job
 

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 8/11/2014 8:39 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian
Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Bessey makes a widget that splices two parallel clamps end-to-end. It
might work for yours, if they don't have a similar widget.



I have a couple of the Bessy unions, I needed two more and more Bessey
clamps. My preference in clamps is the Orange Cabinet Masters.

I'd probably have attached a couple of 2x4's of the appropriate length
to an old sheet of plywood[*] and used wedges between the 2x4 and a caul to
clamp a wide setup like that.
[*] Or even OSB would work.

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 9:09 AM, Sonny wrote:

I like your work table, also. I have one similar to it.

Don't we all:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...36489665490258

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 1:02 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 8/11/2014 8:39 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:08:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

I have been commissioned to build a headboard. It is being constructed
with mahogany and is being stained with General Finishes Georgian
Cherry. The basic design will be Federal.

The main panel between the posts has to be wider than any of my clamps
capicity. I could have screwed some of my old pipe clamps together but
I still did not have enough. I needed to clamp in 4 locations a
distance almost 74", so not even my 6' clamps would work.

Any way I made my 40"+ clamps work.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Then center piece on top was simply resting on top only being held in
place by the opposing forces of the clamps.

Bessey makes a widget that splices two parallel clamps end-to-end. It
might work for yours, if they don't have a similar widget.



I have a couple of the Bessy unions, I needed two more and more Bessey
clamps. My preference in clamps is the Orange Cabinet Masters.

I'd probably have attached a couple of 2x4's of the appropriate length
to an old sheet of plywood[*] and used wedges between the 2x4 and a caul to
clamp a wide setup like that.

[*] Or even OSB would work.



Assuming plywood or SOB on the bottom and the 2x4' on the top of those
plys, the wedges would have to be full length also. I wold need to be
able to apply force at 8 joints in theis particular case. The full
length wedges would work but the 2x4's wold have to be parallel to one
another and the stock being clamped.


I am thinking more like this and this would cover a variety of lengths
with out further modifications.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/14702143997/

And sometimes the proper number of clamps is ...
 

.... zero?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7644207411490/

I used a hollow-core door with a piece of mdf on top as a work surface.
I screwed down a long aluminum straight edge and a strip of 1/2" ply to
make a square corner. Then I screwed down four small blocks of 1x2 scrap
at a slight angle to the work piece, leaving about a 1/4" gap. The
blocks are placed adjacent to the four rails that I glued in, by the
way; the rest of the rails float. Four shims provide the clamping pressure.

I've glued up the first two "ladders" (of four) that form the sides of
my shelf units. It seems to be working fine. One of the reasons I did it
this way was that - at least in the past - I have had some challenges
getting stuff square. If I had to do any persuading (which would be
difficult with this geometry and all of the dowels), I'd know right away
and have a ready reference. I'm happy to report that the pieces went
together square without any problem, perhaps because I took more care to
set things up in the beginning.

I see no inherent problem with scaling up this system (which I certainly
did not invent), but you would need a very large flat surface (that you
don't mind driving screws into) for Leon's headboard

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And sometimes the proper number of clamps is ...
 

Nice. Thanks for the photos. WW

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

.... zero?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7644207411490/

I used a hollow-core door with a piece of mdf on top as a work surface.
I screwed down a long aluminum straight edge and a strip of 1/2" ply to
make a square corner. Then I screwed down four small blocks of 1x2 scrap
at a slight angle to the work piece, leaving about a 1/4" gap. The
blocks are placed adjacent to the four rails that I glued in, by the
way; the rest of the rails float. Four shims provide the clamping pressure.

I've glued up the first two "ladders" (of four) that form the sides of
my shelf units. It seems to be working fine. One of the reasons I did it
this way was that - at least in the past - I have had some challenges
getting stuff square. If I had to do any persuading (which would be
difficult with this geometry and all of the dowels), I'd know right away
and have a ready reference. I'm happy to report that the pieces went
together square without any problem, perhaps because I took more care to
set things up in the beginning.

I see no inherent problem with scaling up this system (which I certainly
did not invent), but you would need a very large flat surface (that you
don't mind driving screws into) for Leon's headboard

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

The headboard Job
 

On Monday, August 11, 2014 9:24:51 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

The problem here is very obvious Leon. YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!!

I knowwwwwwww. LOL, The problem is that 8 footers are damn expensive
and I needed 4

The problem with C-shape clamps (including the adjustable-length ones) is
that the rib has to be stiff along its length. The wood handscrew clamps, though,
have one screw in tension and one in compression with no backbone required.
You can make a version of that geometry with a 2x4 in compression and threaded
rod (or a steel cable) in tension, that doesn't rely on the stiff backbone.

Even at 4', your (Bessy?) clamps are bowing a bit.

The headboard Job
 

On 8/11/2014 10:11 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Monday, August 11, 2014 9:24:51 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

The problem here is very obvious Leon. YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!!

I knowwwwwwww. LOL, The problem is that 8 footers are damn expensive
and I needed 4

The problem with C-shape clamps (including the adjustable-length ones) is
that the rib has to be stiff along its length. The wood handscrew clamps, though,
have one screw in tension and one in compression with no backbone required.
You can make a version of that geometry with a 2x4 in compression and threaded
rod (or a steel cable) in tension, that doesn't rely on the stiff backbone.

Even at 4', your (Bessy?) clamps are bowing a bit.

The besseys and the Cabinet Masters are bowing more than usual because
they are being used at their extreme tips of their clamping surfaces.
If the bars were laying flat on the work and the clamping pressure was
at the bottom of the throats the bow would not be as exaggerated.

The general fix to prevent the clamps from bowing the work is to simply
put clamps on both sides.