I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill
================================================== ===================
Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up harder. Not
caustic and no bad chemicals. It's also a powder that you mix with water,
which I find to be very convenient as what you don't mix will last forever.
Sands and takes paint well.

"CW" wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ...

I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill
================================================== ===================
Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up harder.
Not caustic and no bad chemicals. It's also a powder that you mix with
water, which I find to be very convenient as what you don't mix will last
forever. Sands and takes paint well.

+1 Nothing works as well, nothing.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up harder.
Not caustic and no bad chemicals. It's also a powder that you mix with
water, which I find to be very convenient as what you don't mix will last
forever. Sands and takes paint well.


+1 Nothing works as well, nothing.


+1 My Dad used it and so have I for over 40 years.

On 7/24/2013 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill


I really like this stuff, if you are old enough to have used and
remember the "Paste" that you ate in first grade.... LOL This stuff
smells exactly the same.
Water based.

Comes in all colors.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/202...z-natural.aspx

On 7/24/13 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

Spackle. Drywall mud... whatever it's called. They make one that is very
light and feels like the container is empty when you pick it up. It has
almost no shrinkage at all. For a whole like that, I fill the void, push
in dimple with my thumb. Let it dry and fill again, flush. They make a
quick drying version that is pink and dries white, so you know when you
can put the second layer on. Takes paint as good as sheetrock.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 7/24/13 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

Spackle. Drywall mud... whatever it's called. They make one that is very
light and feels like the container is empty when you pick it up. It has
almost no shrinkage at all. For a whole like that, I fill the void, push
in dimple with my thumb. Let it dry and fill again, flush. They make a
quick drying version that is pink and dries white, so you know when you
can put the second layer on. Takes paint as good as sheetrock.


Thank you All for providing me with helpful suggestions! I wrote them
down and
I promise to try at least one of them!!! Do the folks who like Durhams
Wood Putty and
Timbermate Wood Filler see a downside to using drywall mud? I have open
bags of
Durabond and EZ-Sand ready to use if that solution is suitable. My
initial thought is that
the holes will be subject to considerable vibration as people step on
the threshold
and I'm not sure about the adhesive qualities of drywall compound to
wood (I'll try to look it up).
Either way, I'm pleased to learn about the existence of non-caustic
solutions! Many thanks.

Bill

Bill wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 7/24/13 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to
fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I
need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

Spackle. Drywall mud... whatever it's called. They make one that is very
light and feels like the container is empty when you pick it up. It has
almost no shrinkage at all. For a whole like that, I fill the void, push
in dimple with my thumb. Let it dry and fill again, flush. They make a
quick drying version that is pink and dries white, so you know when you
can put the second layer on. Takes paint as good as sheetrock.


Thank you All for providing me with helpful suggestions! I wrote them
down and
I promise to try at least one of them!!! Do the folks who like
Durhams Wood Putty and
Timbermate Wood Filler see a downside to using drywall mud? I have
open bags of
Durabond and EZ-Sand ready to use if that solution is suitable. My
initial thought is that
the holes will be subject to considerable vibration as people step on
the threshold
and I'm not sure about the adhesive qualities of drywall compound to
wood (I'll try to look it up).
Either way, I'm pleased to learn about the existence of non-caustic
solutions! Many thanks.

Bill



It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


Cheers,
Bill

On 7/25/2013 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 7/24/13 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to
fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I
need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

Spackle. Drywall mud... whatever it's called. They make one that is very
light and feels like the container is empty when you pick it up. It has
almost no shrinkage at all. For a whole like that, I fill the void, push
in dimple with my thumb. Let it dry and fill again, flush. They make a
quick drying version that is pink and dries white, so you know when you
can put the second layer on. Takes paint as good as sheetrock.


Thank you All for providing me with helpful suggestions! I wrote them
down and
I promise to try at least one of them!!! Do the folks who like
Durhams Wood Putty and
Timbermate Wood Filler see a downside to using drywall mud? I have
open bags of
Durabond and EZ-Sand ready to use if that solution is suitable. My
initial thought is that
the holes will be subject to considerable vibration as people step on
the threshold
and I'm not sure about the adhesive qualities of drywall compound to
wood (I'll try to look it up).
Either way, I'm pleased to learn about the existence of non-caustic
solutions! Many thanks.

Bill



It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.

On 7/25/13 1:14 PM, Bill wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 7/24/13 11:53 PM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill

Spackle. Drywall mud... whatever it's called. They make one that is very
light and feels like the container is empty when you pick it up. It has
almost no shrinkage at all. For a whole like that, I fill the void, push
in dimple with my thumb. Let it dry and fill again, flush. They make a
quick drying version that is pink and dries white, so you know when you
can put the second layer on. Takes paint as good as sheetrock.


Thank you All for providing me with helpful suggestions! I wrote them
down and
I promise to try at least one of them!!! Do the folks who like Durhams
Wood Putty and
Timbermate Wood Filler see a downside to using drywall mud? I have open
bags of
Durabond and EZ-Sand ready to use if that solution is suitable. My
initial thought is that
the holes will be subject to considerable vibration as people step on
the threshold
and I'm not sure about the adhesive qualities of drywall compound to
wood (I'll try to look it up).
Either way, I'm pleased to learn about the existence of non-caustic
solutions! Many thanks.

Bill


I don't know what kind of vibration you're expecting. If there's a lot
of vibration in the baseboard, from people walking across the threshold,
you may have some bigger problems. :-)

But look at it this way. There is spackle in every nail/screw hole on
your wall, in every corner, and on every seem. In many houses/condos in
this country, every time someone closes a door, there is a lot of
vibration in the same wall, a lot... as much or more than your baseboard
is going to experience. And the spackle stays put.

I'm think you're looking for a NASA solution to a bottle rocket problem.
:-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:


It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.




Here is a link to a nice little video about Durhams Water Putty in case
anyone wants to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Antg5lIyOVI

I see my local Menards store has the product in stock for $2.18, so I
typing as I run out the door! : )

Bill

-MIKE- wrote:

I'm think you're looking for a NASA solution to a bottle rocket problem.
:-)


Sorry, being "chemically-sensitive", just talking about caustic
chemicals may sometimes impair my judgement.

That was supposed to be a joke, but I'm sure there is some truth to it. : )

Bill

On 7/25/13 1:54 PM, Bill wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:

I'm think you're looking for a NASA solution to a bottle rocket problem.
:-)


Sorry, being "chemically-sensitive", just talking about caustic
chemicals may sometimes impair my judgement.

That was supposed to be a joke, but I'm sure there is some truth to it.
: )

Bill

If drywall patching mud doesn't bother your senses, it's your Occam's
razor for this repair.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/25/2013 12:53 AM, Bill wrote:
I inset some screws to install some door molding (base) and wish to fill
the holes with something that is non-caustic as possible. I will paint
(Zinsser 123) over it. At least one product I looked at contained
Formaldehyde--and that chemical and are not on speaking terms. Perhaps
there is a suitable caulk?

I only have four or five 3/8" holes to fill so I don't want to make a
mountain out of a molehill. But I would prefer to avoid any
"outgassing" too, or issues when the inevitable day comes that I need to
drill the substance out.

Thanks,
Bill
Just use spackle.

perfect for that. let it dry , then add more after it shrinks.

Sand and prep for paint.

--
Jeff

I just bought and used some Durham's Water Putty for the first time. This stuff
is very neat. The first time I mixed it, I put too much water. Since I was
playing with it, I didn't want to use a lot of powder to get the consistency
perfect.

Because it was thinner than it should be (although it was usable), I painted the
edge of a piece of plywood with it. After it dried, I sanded the edge. It
doesn't look like plywood anymore. There's a good chance I'm going to do the
same thing on some plywood shelves that I'm going to paint and install this weekend.



On 7/25/2013 2:46 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:


It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.




Here is a link to a nice little video about Durhams Water Putty in case anyone
wants to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Antg5lIyOVI

I see my local Menards store has the product in stock for $2.18, so I typing as
I run out the door! : )

Bill

mcp6453 wrote:
I just bought and used some Durham's Water Putty for the first time. This stuff
is very neat. The first time I mixed it, I put too much water. Since I was
playing with it, I didn't want to use a lot of powder to get the consistency
perfect.

Because it was thinner than it should be (although it was usable), I painted the
edge of a piece of plywood with it. After it dried, I sanded the edge. It
doesn't look like plywood anymore. There's a good chance I'm going to do the
same thing on some plywood shelves that I'm going to paint and install this weekend.
According to the directions and the video, it's not designed to be
spread thin--but the "rough texture" of the edge of the plywood may be
in your favor.

It might be interesting to perform a "durability test", before you
invest a lot.

Bill






On 7/25/2013 2:46 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.

It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.




Here is a link to a nice little video about Durhams Water Putty in case anyone
wants to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Antg5lIyOVI

I see my local Menards store has the product in stock for $2.18, so I typing as
I run out the door! : )

Bill

Good Putty - been around for 50 years or so. My Dad and I have used
cases of it in the book cases and other wood products.

Dad liked it as it took paint and stain. Some of the original pitch
based fillers worked and sanded but didn't stain but took oil paint.

Martin

On 7/26/2013 4:27 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
I just bought and used some Durham's Water Putty for the first time. This stuff
is very neat. The first time I mixed it, I put too much water. Since I was
playing with it, I didn't want to use a lot of powder to get the consistency
perfect.

Because it was thinner than it should be (although it was usable), I painted the
edge of a piece of plywood with it. After it dried, I sanded the edge. It
doesn't look like plywood anymore. There's a good chance I'm going to do the
same thing on some plywood shelves that I'm going to paint and install this weekend.



On 7/25/2013 2:46 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:


It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.




Here is a link to a nice little video about Durhams Water Putty in case anyone
wants to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Antg5lIyOVI

I see my local Menards store has the product in stock for $2.18, so I typing as
I run out the door! : )

Bill

I used some as spackling today, just for a test. That was NOT a good idea. When
it dried, I had to sand it with a random orbital sander with 100 grit paper. The
sanding sponge didn't have any effect on it.


On 7/26/2013 11:36 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Good Putty - been around for 50 years or so. My Dad and I have used cases of it
in the book cases and other wood products.

Dad liked it as it took paint and stain. Some of the original pitch based
fillers worked and sanded but didn't stain but took oil paint.

Martin

On 7/26/2013 4:27 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
I just bought and used some Durham's Water Putty for the first time. This stuff
is very neat. The first time I mixed it, I put too much water. Since I was
playing with it, I didn't want to use a lot of powder to get the consistency
perfect.

Because it was thinner than it should be (although it was usable), I painted the
edge of a piece of plywood with it. After it dried, I sanded the edge. It
doesn't look like plywood anymore. There's a good chance I'm going to do the
same thing on some plywood shelves that I'm going to paint and install this
weekend.



On 7/25/2013 2:46 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:


It appears CW already mostly-answered my question:

CW: Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up
harder.


It is quite a bit how ever you mix it, plaster, putty, slush...
Properly mixed, a lot like Timbermate.




Here is a link to a nice little video about Durhams Water Putty in case anyone
wants to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Antg5lIyOVI

I see my local Menards store has the product in stock for $2.18, so I typing as
I run out the door! : )

Bill

On 7/27/13 11:21 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
I used some as spackling today, just for a test. That was NOT a good idea. When
it dried, I had to sand it with a random orbital sander with 100 grit paper. The
sanding sponge didn't have any effect on it.


1. You're going to have to sand anything you use as a hole filler.
2. If your sanding sponge didn't have any effect on it, you need a new
sanding sponge.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Casper wrote:
Durham's water putty. It is quite a bit like plaster but sets up harder.
Not caustic and no bad chemicals. It's also a powder that you mix with
water, which I find to be very convenient as what you don't mix will last
forever. Sands and takes paint well.

+1 Nothing works as well, nothing.

+1 My Dad used it and so have I for over 40 years.


After filling the first 5 holes with Durham's water putty, I found 12
more (screw inset) holes around a window to fill. And I found 2 larger
gaps in an old molding repair which I filled too. I used masking tape
to help make a frame (concept taken from the only YouTube video on
DWP). I was pleased to peel off the tape today and observe that it did
really well!

And it's 'merican made product! : )

The stuff can probably made a better painter out of anyone (who has the
time for it to dehumidify). Thank you for getting me on board! The
product has an interesting web page too.

Bill

I use to appoint some wood worker for all these things but never know it's this much easy anyone can do this with just a little input.