Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM

On 4/26/2013 10:22 AM, wrote:
Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM



Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM

Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!

+1. I could see it selling very well.

On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM

Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!

+1. I could see it selling very well.


Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.

Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.

I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.

--
Jeff

On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
possibilities for new router profiles!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM

Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!

+1. I could see it selling very well.


Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.

How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
angled?
It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?


Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.

I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.



--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:
On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the
possibilities for new router profiles!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM

Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that
thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!

+1. I could see it selling very well.


Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.

How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's
angled?
It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?

It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is
being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.
Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.
While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router
doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.

Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise
for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth
and height. If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and
height.



Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is
everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.

I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from
Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the
screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.





--
Jeff

On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:

On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:

On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the

possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM



Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that

thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!



+1. I could see it selling very well.





Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work

better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.



How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's

angled?

It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?



It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is

being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.


Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.



Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.

While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router

doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.



Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise

for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth

and height.

Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.

If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and

height.


There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95

Cheers!






Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is

everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.



I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from

Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the

screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.











--

Jeff

On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:

On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:

On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the

possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM



Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that

thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!



+1. I could see it selling very well.





Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work

better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.



How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's

angled?

It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?



It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is

being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.


Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.




Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.

While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router

doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.



Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise

for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth

and height. If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and

height.







Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is

everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.



I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from

Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the

screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.











--

Jeff

On 4/28/2013 11:44 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:

On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:

On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:

On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the

possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM



Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that

thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!



+1. I could see it selling very well.





Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work

better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.



How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's

angled?

It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?



It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is

being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.


Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.


Brian, the split fence is not what is bothering me, its the edge that
you are cutting that is off the table.


Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.

While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router

doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.



Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise

for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth

and height.

Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.

If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and

height.


There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95

Cheers!






Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is

everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.



I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from

Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the

screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.











--

Jeff



--
Jeff

On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:55:16 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/28/2013 11:44 AM, wrote:

On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:

On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:



On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:



On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, wrote:



On Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:52:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet



Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the



possibilities for new router profiles!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a88f1pv6jM







Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that



thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!







+1. I could see it selling very well.











Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work



better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.







How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's



angled?



It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?







It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is



being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table.





Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.





Brian, the split fence is not what is bothering me, its the edge that

you are cutting that is off the table.


Why is this a problem? Determining the depth is a non-issue.







Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there.



While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router



doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.







Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise



for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth



and height.



Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.



If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and



height.





There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95



Cheers!













Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is



everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.







I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from



Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the



screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.























--



Jeff







--

Jeff

On 4/28/2013 11:50 AM, wrote:

Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.


I sometimes use a zero clearance plate , and fence insert. When I am
cutting wood that tends to tearout badly. It's the only way I have found
to have repeatablility without wood loss.
My split fence has bevels in it to hold the insert.
And I bought uncut inserts for my router plate. I just cut through to
use them... No to little tearout even on wood that I found hard to cut
otherwise.


--
Jeff

On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:59:15 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 4/28/2013 11:50 AM, wrote:



Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.





I sometimes use a zero clearance plate , and fence insert. When I am

cutting wood that tends to tearout badly. It's the only way I have found

to have repeatablility without wood loss.

My split fence has bevels in it to hold the insert.


Why would you not be able to adapt an insert in this case?



And I bought uncut inserts for my router plate. I just cut through to

use them... No to little tearout even on wood that I found hard to cut

otherwise.








--

Jeff

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 11:39:15 -0400, woodchucker
+1. I could see it selling very well.

Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.

All things considered, this was a prototype and a fine first effort in
my opinion. I'd expect any edition put up for sale to be mostly made
out of metal with included sacrificial fences. It would include
various judicious modifications as per your comment and others.

On 4/28/2013 4:05 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 11:39:15 -0400, woodchucker
+1. I could see it selling very well.

Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work
better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.

All things considered, this was a prototype and a fine first effort in
my opinion. I'd expect any edition put up for sale to be mostly made
out of metal with included sacrificial fences. It would include
various judicious modifications as per your comment and others.

Again, it's not the fence's gap, its the gap on the stock being cut.
there's no support there.



--
Jeff

On 4/28/2013 12:02 PM, wrote:
Why would you not be able to adapt an insert in this case?
See my post in alt binaries..

Overall you tilt table works and will work for many who want this form
of tilt.

I just feel there is a better tilt by using the router tilted under the
table. Less chance of tearout, less chance of errors.

See the binaries.

--
Jeff