spraying Resisthane Plus
 

I am spraying some new cabinets with Resisthane Plus. The sequence I am using is:

0) sand smooth
1) spray water based dye for color
1a) warm the Resisthane and cabinets to about 80 degrees.
2) spray a sealer coat of Resisthane
3) lightly sand to get rid of any fuzz from raising grain again
4) spray 2 coats of Resisthane.
5) sand until surface is smooth - remove 75% of "bumps".
6) rub with steel wool until smooth and no "bumps"
7) wax

It is a lot of work. I am using a 4 stage Fuji HVLP gun. The Resisthane seems to go on wet and dries in about 30 minutes. I re-spray after a couple of hours and am surprised that the "bumps" appear after step 3. Do I need to thin the Resisthane? Spray more coats before it will level? Any help would be appreciated

spraying Resisthane Plus
 

Len wrote:
I am spraying some new cabinets with Resisthane Plus. The sequence I
am using is:

0) sand smooth
1) spray water based dye for color
1a) warm the Resisthane and cabinets to about 80 degrees.
2) spray a sealer coat of Resisthane
3) lightly sand to get rid of any fuzz from raising grain
again
4) spray 2 coats of Resisthane.
5) sand until surface is smooth - remove 75% of "bumps".
6) rub with steel wool until smooth and no "bumps"
7) wax

It is a lot of work. I am using a 4 stage Fuji HVLP gun. The
Resisthane seems to go on wet and dries in about 30 minutes. I
re-spray after a couple of hours and am surprised that the "bumps"
appear after step 3. Do I need to thin the Resisthane? Spray more
coats before it will level? Any help would be appreciated

Can you take a pictiure of the "bumps"? It's hard to guess at what you mean
by that term since it can mean so many things. Here's a couple of ideas to
get thouhghts going... (BTW - I have no idea what Resisthane is, or how it
behaves)...

1) If it's orange peel, which is what you commonly see in car finishes, and
literally looks like the surface of an orange peel, then that's a sign that
your first coat was put on too dry. It's not likely you will fill that kind
of a surface to your liking with just added coats, before you find yourself
with too much build up. You can shoot a couple of heavy coats on, and then
knock it down with 1000 grit until it is dead flat, and then out on a good
medium wet to wet coat or two. Or, you can just knock down what you have
now with 1000 grit and go back at it in the same way.

2) If the bumps are dust nibs, just knock them down dead flat with 1000
grit and then buff it back to the shine you want with rubbing compound.

3) Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for recoats. If
they tell you 10 minutes, then do that. If they tell you to scuff the
surface after 2 hours, then do that. Most importantly, follow their
instructions on thinning.

4) No need to thin for the final coats as long as it is shooting well.
Regulate your speed to get a heavier and even coat on. Watch your pattern
as it goes down. Make sure you are getting a 50% overlap and that you are
getting a good wet coat. Your should feel like you are pulling a very thin
sheet of plastic over the piece as you spray. There is no getting around
watching your spray go down. You absolutely have to watch in order to know
how fast to move your gun.

Most people make the mistake of shooting too light of a coat and they create
things like orange peel. A good medium wet coat will cover and lay out
flat, while still being light enough so that it does not sag or run.

--

-Mike-

spraying Resisthane Plus
 

Thanks for the quick reply. The problem is orange peel. Unfortunately, I am at the age where it takes and hour for some words to come to the forefron, so "bumps" had to do.

I will try some of the things you suggested and let the group kno what works.

Len

spraying Resisthane Plus
 

On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 11:40:08 -0800 (PST), Len
wrote:

Thanks for the quick reply. The problem is orange peel. Unfortunately, I am at the age where it takes and hour for some words to come to the forefron, so "bumps" had to do.

I will try some of the things you suggested and let the group kno what works.

Are you properly wiping the piece down after sanding?
Is your spray booth properly wetted down prior to spraying?
Are fresh intake filters installed?
Did you filter the Resisthane through mesh paint filters to rule out
spraying the orange peel on?

I've never sprayed Resisthane waterborne lacquer, so I can't tell if
it needs thinning or not. Did you run a viscosity test? Is it within
the parameters Hydrocote (or the HVLP gun mfgr) says it should be? Did
you warm up the lacquer as you did the surfaces?


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