Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message
...
Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Shellac.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Shellac.

Dewaxed.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Shellac.

Dewaxed.

My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
test pieces with.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On 12/18/2012 11:52 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Shellac.

Dewaxed.

My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
test pieces with.

uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all
sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On 12/18/2012 4:14 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 12/18/2012 11:52 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.

Shellac.

Dewaxed.

My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
test pieces with.

uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all
sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place,
but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something
else.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first
place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to
something else.
------------------------------------------
Low cost

Dries quickly

Seals surface

Prevents bleed thru.

Lew

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On 12/18/2012 5:00 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first
place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to
something else.
------------------------------------------
Low cost

Dries quickly

Seals surface

Prevents bleed thru.

Lew

Thank you.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first
place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to
something else.
------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Low cost

Dries quickly

Seals surface

Prevents bleed thru.

Lew
-----------------------------------------------

"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Thank you.
---------------------------------------------------
SFWIW, I go to the local Harbor Freight and buy 2" chip brushes
by the dozen.

They work well for slathering on shellac. (Pick off the bristles that
shed).

Cut the dewaxed shellac to 1# with denatured alcohol and apply
liberally.

Apply several coats and wait 3-4 weeks before rubbing out as needed.

I'm no finishing genius but it works for me.

Have fun.

Lew

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On Tuesday, December 18, 2012 4:45:28 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
Context:Plywood built-in bookcases. I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.

FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme condition backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.

Finishing surfaces that won't show?
 

On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 16:52:41 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place,
but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something
else.

Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else,
although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries
almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try.
Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get
it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're
over 2 years old.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.