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MDF: Repair or Replace?
I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
MDF: Repair or Replace?
On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST),
wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious! Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the inside, prime/paint it, and forget it. -- ....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin |
Repair or Replace?
On Sunday, December 9, 2012 7:23:20 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Yes, you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle board. I thought that particle board had courser fibers like this: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ticleBoard.jpg Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need to use screws or nails, pre-drill. It seems as though you are recommending that I edge glue and add screws into the edge. I also assume you don't think that face gluing a piece as shown here would work, correct?: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...DoorRepair.jpg (That is, provided there are 3/8" thick sizes available). Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
Repair or Replace?
On Sunday, December 9, 2012 1:09:09 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sunday, December 9, 2012 7:23:20 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote: wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Yes, you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle board. I thought that particle board had courser fibers like this: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ticleBoard.jpg Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need to use screws or nails, pre-drill. It seems as though you are recommending that I edge glue and add screws into the edge. I also assume you don't think that face gluing a piece as shown here would work, correct?: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...DoorRepair.jpg (That is, provided there are 3/8" thick sizes available). Actually, I meant 3/16". Darren Harris Staten Island,New York. |
MDF: Repair or Replace?
On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious! It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip. Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the inside, prime/paint it, and forget it. That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
Repair or Replace?
Subject
You'll be time and money ahead if you just cut a new back from a 1/2" sheet of MDF. Lew |
MDF: Repair or Replace?
On Sun, 9 Dec 2012 10:19:01 -0800 (PST),
wrote: On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious! It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip. Um, why is the door scraping on the ground, anyway? I guess it's the walking it does when people TILT it, huh? Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the inside, prime/paint it, and forget it. That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct. Is the door inset or something? If the lip is in a slot, why is it scuffed all to hell? Does not compute. Where are the hinges, anyway? Darren, you'd have better luck asking questions with picture urls linked to the query. We could see how these things sit in their habitats. -- A human being must have occupation if he or she is not to become a nuisance to the world. -- Dorothy L. Sayers We need to find -jobs- for our CONgresscritters! -- Larry Jaques |
MDF: Repair or Replace?
On Sunday, December 9, 2012 10:21:39 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 9 Dec 2012 10:19:01 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), wrote: I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one. The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorA.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...freardoorB.jpg I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this. Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Dimensions.jpg Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious! It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip. Um, why is the door scraping on the ground, anyway? I guess it's the walking it does when people TILT it, huh? Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the inside, prime/paint it, and forget it. That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct. Is the door inset or something? If the lip is in a slot, why is it scuffed all to hell? Does not compute. Where are the hinges, anyway? Here's that pic again: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...rPanelDoor.jpg That is the door upside down leaning against a wall, so you can see that the bottom of that panel/door is where the damage is. There are no hinges. The lip is placed in it's slot when it is on the cabinet and that keeps the bottom in place. And if you look closely, the top of the panel/door has a lock in the center. Darren, you'd have better luck asking questions with picture urls linked to the query. We could see how these things sit in their habitats. I thought I did. I just corresponded with other collectors who have the same problem and apparently if you take these doors off the cabinet and sit them in a corner somewhere that lip starts to deteriorate on it's own. I guess it's just the nature of the material.(I'm still not positive what material it is). Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
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