|
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood.
What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
"DJayhawk" wrote: I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- A 1 HP motor is a little light for cutting ply. If you are operating at 120V, re-wire for 240V operation. It will make a major difference. While not inexpensive, a 1-1/2 HP motor will also make a big difference. Not familiar with the blade, but I never found Black and Decker blades to be anything but low initial cost. I would look at Freud for a blade. Have fun. Lew |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 8:31 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice I basically had the same saw. I put a good quality "REGULAR kerf blade on it and it made all the difference in the world. Keep in mind that you need to have your saw tuned properly. Read that as every thing as close to perfect alignment as possible. You can put at thin kerf blade on it to cut faster but over all not better. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it would make a big enough difference.
Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
DJayhawk wrote in
: I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice A good blade will make a big difference. Check to make sure the fence is parallel to the blade (it helps if it's parallel to the miter slot, but if you're not using the gauge it doesn't make too much difference.) Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 11:01 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/15/2012 8:31 PM, DJayhawk wrote: I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice I basically had the same saw. I put a good quality "REGULAR kerf blade on it and it made all the difference in the world. Keep in mind that you need to have your saw tuned properly. Read that as every thing as close to perfect alignment as possible. You can put at thin kerf blade on it to cut faster but over all not better. I have a saw from the same period. It is a Sears 10" Table Saw 113 2990301 with a 1hp motor. I inherited the saw and replaced the blade my father in law had with a 10" 60 tooth Carbide blade (As I remember it was $50 or $60 about 14 years ago from Sears .) The better blade made a world of difference. I routinely rip 1 X 4's with it and have no problem. There is one thing you can do to improve performance. Over the years sawdust and wood chips accumulate in the motor itself. Mine finally stopped when a wood chip got into the contacts. Before spending any significant money (a 1.5 hp motor would be a couple of hindered) I would disassemble the motor and clean out all of the creases. First a word for the bureaucrats: USE GOOD PRACTICES WHEN WORKING WITH THINGS ELECTRICAL, BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK WIRES OR TEAR ANY INSTALLATION CAREFULLY REASSEMBLE ANY PART THAT COMES OUT HAS TO GO BACK IN, AND NOT ADDITIONAL PARTS AND MATERIAL SHOULD BE ADDED Now back to our show. If it as mine, there are three? screws that connect the right end of the case to the left end. Remove the screws and the motor comes into three parts. clean each and clean and reoil the bushings. pull the rotor out of the center part an clean the surface and check of wear. Once it is back together, use a vacuum to periodically clean the openings in the motor and add oil to the oil ports at each end of the motor to keep the bushing oiled. I do agree with what was previously posted that for ripping 3/4 plywood I would look at a bigger motor. However if this is a one shot thing just feed it slowly. My saw has been from Arizona to North Carolina, then to Indiana and back. So if it was originally aligned correctly it should still be OK but I would check everything just in case. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
Thanks Keith! I'll look into cleaning up the motor before upgrading it. How much of a factor does the belt have in performance? The belt doesn't look bad at all but the saw has been in grandpas basement shop for over 10 years unused.
|
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
"DJayhawk" wrote: I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it would make a big enough difference. ------------------------------------------------------ It will make a big difference, especially with a better blade. ------------------------------------------------------ Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? -------------------------------------------------- WW Grainger, McMaster-Carr? Check Amazon also. Not sure if the sell motors. Lew |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/12 8:31 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice I think 1hp motor is plenty for plywood, assuming it's still in good shape. Plywood is stable and doesn't bind the blade, has no knots, is usually made mostly of soft woods. No problem with a sharp blade. Ever try to use a dull utility knife vs. a new one. Night and day, right? Even when putting much more "horse power" behind the blade, it cuts poorly and wears you out. I did some really nice work with a lousy table saw and a $100 blade. Like others have said, it has to be set-up properly. No blade will cut cleanly and not bog down if the fence is pinching the stock behind the blade. Freud has some great blades for well under $75. And yes, full kerf will yield better results, but may slow down your feed rate on a 1hp motor. It's worth it, imo. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/16/2012 12:42 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"DJayhawk" wrote: I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it would make a big enough difference. ------------------------------------------------------ It will make a big difference, especially with a better blade. ------------------------------------------------------ Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? -------------------------------------------------- WW Grainger, McMaster-Carr? Check Amazon also. Not sure if the sell motors. Lew Harbor Freight has them also. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 11:22 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
DJayhawk wrote in : I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice A good blade will make a big difference. Check to make sure the fence is parallel to the blade (it helps if it's parallel to the miter slot, but if you're not using the gauge it doesn't make too much difference.) Puckdropper With your cast iron top where the blade bushing assembly is bolted to that top, from my experience it is easier to use the miter slot as a reference for both the blade and the fence. Fence can move but it is difficult to move the miter slot, especially in your saw where it is a grove in the cast iron table. So if the blade is set parallel to the slot it is going to take a lot to change alignment. Using the slot for reference makes check the fence easy. Using your adjustable square, On one end, set the square against the slot and adjust the ruler so it is against the fence. Lay the square in the same position at the other end, and adjust the fence until both ends are both the same distance from the slot. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 09:14 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it would make a big enough difference. Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/260 -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
"Lew Hodgett" wrote: ================================================== "DJayhawk" wrote: I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it would make a big enough difference. ------------------------------------------------------ It will make a big difference, especially with a better blade. ------------------------------------------------------ Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? -------------------------------------------------- WW Grainger, McMaster-Carr? Check Amazon also. Not sure if the sell motors. Lew =============================================== Forgot to mention how important having a large enough power cable is for a saw. Your existing 1HP motor will draw from 12-15 amps @ 120 volts. To minimize line losses, I'd use a 10-2/ground cable. If you operate @ 240V, motor will operate @ 6-8 amps which means you could use 12-2/ground, but I would still use 10-2/ground cable. You can buy a molded cordset (15-25 Ft) from a supply house, cut off the receptacle and wire it into saw. It's the lowest cost way to get a heavy duty power cable. Have fun Lew |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 10:50 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
Thanks Keith! I'll look into cleaning up the motor before upgrading it. How much of a factor does the belt have in performance? The belt doesn't look bad at all but the saw has been in grandpas basement shop for over 10 years unused. A better belt will help the saw run smoother but not necessarily increase cutting capacity/speed. FWIW I never changed mine. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Thu, 15 Nov 2012 20:50:36 -0800 (PST), DJayhawk
wrote: Thanks Keith! I'll look into cleaning up the motor before upgrading it. How much of a factor does the belt have in performance? The belt doesn't look bad at all but the saw has been in grandpas basement shop for over 10 years unused. I have the same or similar saw, c. 1983. With factory belts and pulleys, it wouldn't pass the nickle test with the nickle laying flat. I installed new pulleys and link-blets, and ever since it'll pass the test easily. After-market belts and pulleys make a big difference for accuracy and cut quality, but won't have much effect on power. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 10:14 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
I know I need to get a better quality blade and plan on doing that soon. I thought about re-wiring it for 220 but wasn't confident it wouldmake a big enough difference. If as you say the blade is new even tho the B&D aren't the best you can buy, it's not likely the major problem as far as that goes. What's more important is # teeth, grind, hook angle and whether it's even close to being in line. The _style_ of the blade for the purpose is important; the brand, not so much. Rewiring won't make any real difference unless your wiring is _severely_ undersized but if 240V is available might as well as it's a nearly trivial operation. If you do upgrade the motor to larger size then you'll likely need to, anyway for an existing circuit or you'll start tripping it. Where should I look for a 1.5 hp motor? Sears? Local ads, criags list kind of places, the local radio station call-in trade show if got one, call the electric motor repair shops for used... On motors I'd avoid the HF and the ilk super-cheapies unless there's a walkin store in town and there's a swap-out guarantee for more than just the 30 days or they do happen to have some heavier-duty motors...generally my experience has been that their motors let the smoke out pretty quickly. -- |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Thu, 15 Nov 2012 19:26:11 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
While not inexpensive, a 1-1/2 HP motor will also make a big difference. I'm not sure that's true. I've got a 1948 Delta with what I think is the original motor. It says 1 HP but is so large and heavy I can't lift it. I suspect the rating is true HP, not "peak". An acquaintance who rebuilds motor for a living warned me to never get rid of that motor. He said regardless of HP it had twice as much torque as a modern motor. It does bog down a bit on 8/4 hard maple, but most contractor style saws would. If the OP's saw has a similar motor, he might find an upgrade was a downgrade. It doesn't sound like that's the case, but I just wanted to point out that HP ratings don't tell the whole story. If his motor is more of the modern style, comparing amperage might be more informative. -- When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and carrying a cross. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
"Lew Hodgett" wrote: While not inexpensive, a 1-1/2 HP motor will also make a big difference. ------------------------------------------------------------------ "Larry Blanchard" wrote: I'm not sure that's true. I've got a 1948 Delta with what I think is the original motor. It says 1 HP but is so large and heavy I can't lift it. I suspect the rating is true HP, not "peak". An acquaintance who rebuilds motor for a living warned me to never get rid of that motor. He said regardless of HP it had twice as much torque as a modern motor. It does bog down a bit on 8/4 hard maple, but most contractor style saws would. If the OP's saw has a similar motor, he might find an upgrade was a downgrade. It doesn't sound like that's the case, but I just wanted to point out that HP ratings don't tell the whole story. If his motor is more of the modern style, comparing amperage might be more informative. --------------------------------------------------------------- The reason older motors have so much iron in them has to do with the insulating varnish on the copper windings. Old time varnishes just could not handle the temperatures that today's varnishes are designed to handle. As a result, larger wire sizes were required for the windings in order to be able handle the current required to develop rated the HP of the design. The number of turns remain constant between yesterday's and today's motors for the rated HP of the design. Larger wire size dictates bigger slots in the stator to hanle the wire bundle, which dictates a larger diameter stator, which dictates larger housings thus a larger, heavier motor. Lew |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Thursday, November 15, 2012 6:31:00 PM UTC-8, DJayhawk wrote:
I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. Either the alignment of the saw is bad (and the plywood is somehow binding in the cut - look for scorchmarks) or the blade is very dirty/dull, or your electrical wiring is too lightweight. One horsepower should be enough. More than enough. Ripping a long strip of plywood, it matters a LOT that you and your helpers feed the work straight, and keep it flat, like with a very large outfeed and/or infeed table. Usually the long rip on 8-foot sheets is done with a guide and Skilsaw, it's just easier that way. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Thu, 15 Nov 2012 20:50:36 -0800 (PST), DJayhawk
wrote: Thanks Keith! I'll look into cleaning up the motor before upgrading it. How much of a factor does the belt have in performance? The belt doesn't look bad at all but the saw has been in grandpas basement shop for over 10 years unused. When your doing your tune up make sure everything is turning freely and desn't have too much run out. Mike M |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from.
I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade. Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get? |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Fri, 16 Nov 2012 15:20:34 -0800 (PST), DJayhawk
wrote: The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from. I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade. Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get? When I had my craftsman I had a systematic on it. I know some people here like the Frued. I had too measure front and back with the craftsman fence to be sure it set square. Mike M |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/16/2012 5:20 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from. I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade. Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get? While this might be hard to swallow, I recommend something like a Forrest WWII regular kerf, 40 teeth. Yes it is expensive, $100 plus a little but it will stay sharp for a very very long time and can be resharpened dozens of times. AND if you upgrade your saw it will most likely be transferable. ;~) |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Fri, 16 Nov 2012 11:15:54 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
The reason older motors have so much iron in them has to do with the insulating varnish on the copper windings. Old time varnishes just could not handle the temperatures that today's varnishes are designed to handle. As a result, larger wire sizes were required for the windings ... Thanks Lew, that's useful information. I wonder when the use of "peak" horsepower became common? -- When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and carrying a cross. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
"Larry Blanchard" wrote: Thanks Lew, that's useful information. I wonder when the use of "peak" horsepower became common? ---------------------------------------------------- "Peak" HP is a marketing gimmick that ONLY applies to some specific applications such as vacuum cleaners. NEMA motors are truly specified according to design (Design B, Design C, Design D), which defines the torque vs: RPM of the motor and true output HP for the real world. Lew |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/16/12 5:20 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from. I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade. Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get? There's a place near me that has a boatload of Freud - LM72R010X that they are unloading for $25 each. You could pay shipping and still have it for 1/2 of what other places are selling it. It's a heavy duty full kerf blade. http://www.generalindustrial.com/ (800) 371-2220 -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/16/2012 6:20 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
The blade is true and 90, but the rear part of the fence appears to run in toward the blade. That has to be where the binding is coming from. I spent some time aligning my fence and made a couple cuts feeding really slow. It's still not cutting how I hoped it would. It maybe be that I do need to upgrade the blade. Thanks for all the suggestions. What blade should I get? When you say true, does that mean the to the slot/(table top or what ever you are using as a reference) and blade are absolutely parallel? or is the blade parallel to the fence? One thing I just thought of if the saw has been use a lot, how are the bearings on the blade spindle. If they are worn that could cause binding and slow the saw down. You asked about the belt, if it is going bad and causing problems I would think that those problems were that it is about to break not slow the saw down. If the belt is to tight that could cause the bearing to bind on both the blade an in the motor causing the saw to run slow. We have been talking about alignment, is the motor aligned with the pulley on the saw blade. The fact that the blade is 90 degrees to the table should have nothing to do with binding. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
While this might be hard to swallow, I recommend something like a
Forrest WWII regular kerf, 40 teeth. I'll vouch for that blade |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance?
|
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 08:41:07 -0800 (PST), DJayhawk
wrote: What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance? The threads on my arbor do not extend far enough out to allow me to use a stabilizer on the arbor side of the blade. I use one on the other side. Definitely use them if you can, especially with a thin-kerf blade. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:37:30 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Thanks Lew, that's useful information. I wonder when the use of "peak" horsepower became common? ---------------------------------------------------- "Peak" HP is a marketing gimmick that ONLY applies to some specific applications such as vacuum cleaners. That may be all it *applies* to, but it's used on just about everything. Looked at router horsepower claims lately? Or any power tool from Sears? I notice that Lowes is advertising a couple of Steel City "1.5HP" table saws on their website. When you check the specs, the amps are shown as "0.0". Guess that's one way of obfuscating the facts :-). On a more hopeful note, I see a lot of products are now just stating amps - no horsepower rating. -- When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and carrying a cross. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 08:41:07 -0800, DJayhawk wrote:
What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance? They're a definite help on thin kerf blades. Opinions differ on their utility of a full kerf blade, but they can't hurt. One thing I do is mark mine so I always install them in the same position relative to each other. That might be overkill, but then again it can't hurt. -- When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and carrying a cross. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/17/12 10:41 AM, DJayhawk wrote:
What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance? I've used them on thin kerf blade and they do help. However, it's all irrelevant when your saw isn't properly set-up. The thin kerf blade with stabilizers will still flex some when the stock is binding, putting pressure against the side of the blade. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/16/2012 1:15 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote: .... The reason older motors have so much iron in them has to do with the insulating varnish on the copper windings. Old time varnishes just could not handle the temperatures that today's varnishes are designed to handle. As a result, larger wire sizes were required for the windings in order to be able handle the current required to develop rated the HP of the design. The number of turns remain constant between yesterday's and today's motors for the rated HP of the design. Larger wire size dictates bigger slots in the stator to hanle the wire bundle, which dictates a larger diameter stator, which dictates larger housings thus a larger, heavier motor. .... That's a part of the story; there's much more going on besides-- :) The difference between the magnetic steels used/available, air gap, etc., etc., all effect the overall efficiency and hence the power output per unit input is variable w/ generally older motors not being as efficient. I-sqR losses may go down w/ the larger diameter if used, but that's counteracted by longer length so isn't as large a win as just the area factor alone as well as changing the field saturation... All in all, it's tough to make generalizations other than often the advantage in the older motors is that cost constraints weren't nearly as big a deal then so they had motors which rated better than those on more recent equipment where price point became so much a competitive issue. The torque effect noted above is a valid one on the older larger physical rotor designs -- I have a WWII era hybrid Walker-Turner Rockwell 3/4" spindle shaper w/ the original motor that is physically as large as more recent 5 hp motors. It's mass is helpful for tough jobs and noticeable in comparison w/ the PM Model 27 of roughly mid-80s vintage and same (3) hp rating. I'd have to go to the shop to look up comparative LRA and FLA but I'm sure the old Rockwell is fair much higher draw than the newer PM. -- |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 08:41:07 -0800 (PST), DJayhawk
wrote: What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance? When I had my Craftsman saw I had some Craftsman stabilizers on it and they made it worse, but they likely were'nt true and created distortion in the thin kerf blade. Mike M |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/17/2012 10:41 AM, DJayhawk wrote:
What do you guys think about blade stabilizers? There were on the saw when I started using it. Since I put the B&D blade on I reinstalled the stanilizers too. Do I need them? Do they have any effect on performance? Blade stabilizers are a remedy for a blade with inherent deficiencies, namely thin kerf blades. Put stabilizer money towards a good regular kerf blade. |
Craftsman tablesaw (old)
On 11/15/2012 9:31 PM, DJayhawk wrote:
I have old Craftsman 1 hp tablesaw that is just dogging out on me when I'm ripping 3/4" plywood. What can I do to get this old dog performing better? Does the blade have that much of a factor or could there be other issues? The model is 113.29992 it might be from the late 60's. the blade on there now is a new Black and Decker Pirranah. Thanks for any advice Yesterday I was ripping a piece of 1X2, and realize there is something I do that does effect performance, Most of the time I want very finished cuts for the type of work I am doing. To decrease the angle the teeth that the are hitting the face of the board, I adjust the height of the blade so it is about a half to three quarter inch above the board. This lower angle adds cutting teeth to the cutting length. ie as you lower the blade from full height, the angle of the blade in the wood goes from nearly vertical to nearly horizontal. However with hard woods the greater cut length also adds to the load on the saw. If you are using a low blade height you can reduce the load by raising the blade to reduce the cut length in the wood. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:20 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter