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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a
display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
"Leon" wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Set screw is a failure waiting to happen IMHO. How about an 8mm lock nut that locks the 8mm stud on the plane to the mounting post below? Lew |
#3
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
For whichever set screw you use, file flat a part of the 8mm threaded rod where the set screw will contact. Re-die the rod, if need be, if the filing messes up the threads on the rod, for screwing it onto whatever. With a flattened side on the rod, either set screw would not have to be tightened so tight.
Sonny |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 4:05 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Set screw is a failure waiting to happen IMHO. How about an 8mm lock nut that locks the 8mm stud on the plane to the mounting post below? Lew The airplane is mounted at a 30 degree angle. I thought about using a nut in the post but that would mean you would have to hold the 4' square airplane at an angle and spin it 16~20 times to mount and again to unmount. Actually I believe that it would be best if the airplane would spin if forced, which convention folk will do. I just don't want it to spin on its own or given a lite tough. Essentially the method you are describing will be used at the airplane to stud union. Setting the airplane stud in the mounting hole quickly will be a great advantage. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
"Leon" wrote in message news I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Drill a slight shallow hole in the 8mm shaft for the set screw to enter. Problem solved. WW |
#6
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 4:20 PM, Sonny wrote:
For whichever set screw you use, file flat a part of the 8mm threaded rod where the set screw will contact. Re-die the rod, if need be, if the filing messes up the threads on the rod, for screwing it onto whatever. With a flattened side on the rod, either set screw would not have to be tightened so tight. Sonny Thought of that too and the threads will not matter at that point. Filing would help but I personally will not be setting this display up over and over and the depth of the mounting stud "in the airplane itself" will be ever changing, which would change the location of the flat spot on the rod. Now if only I could find a key way slotted threaded rod..... |
#7
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A picture is worth a thousand words
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#8
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 3:53 PM, Leon wrote:
.... hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Agree would be best to have a flat but probably won't matter too much...how much does the beastie weigh? I'd suggest a regular hex set screw--they've got the cup in the base to grab the target already plus they're hard. If need be, ship the allen wrench w/ it in a little cubby spot... -- |
#9
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 5:04 PM, WW wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message news I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Drill a slight shallow hole in the 8mm shaft for the set screw to enter. Problem solved. WW Darn, I though you had it!. I will not be setting this display up but others will, over and over. They will be attaching the threaded stud to the airplane first and the stud would have to be clocked perfectly for the hole to align properly. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
The screw type won't matter. Either will hold. A soft screw is actually
better than a hard screw, it will deform where it sets in and grab better. Some of the better screws made to lock in have brass tips to not deform the shafts, but bite in on the piece. Can you make a small cradle for the belly where the screw will go, so that there is more support and that will help prevent it from spinning? If just mounted on that one screw point, it will definitely put lots of pressure on the fuse, and could eventually crack that area. A plane that size weighs a good amount, and you don't know how it was built. Ask about a small cradle to spread the load. On 11/2/2012 4:53 PM, Leon wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? |
#11
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 5:15 PM, dpb wrote:
On 11/2/2012 3:53 PM, Leon wrote: ... hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Agree would be best to have a flat but probably won't matter too much...how much does the beastie weigh? In display mode about 20~25 lbs for the big one. I'd suggest a regular hex set screw--they've got the cup in the base to grab the target already plus they're hard. If need be, ship the allen wrench w/ it in a little cubby spot... -- Yeah, actually there seem to be about a dozen tips for set screws, Pointed, round, ball, http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=jzs18u |
#12
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 5:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
The screw type won't matter. Either will hold. A soft screw is actually better than a hard screw, it will deform where it sets in and grab better. Some of the better screws made to lock in have brass tips to not deform the shafts, but bite in on the piece. I am thinking a cap screw, and a hard SS shaft. I would rather the clamping screw deform than the shaft. If the shaft threads deform it may be difficult to pull it out of the hole. And i am going to try to sell the customer on there being give in the event some one grabs a wing and gives it a push. Better for the plane to turn than something crack. Or I could grind the threads off on that end to prevent the above mention possibility. Can you make a small cradle for the belly where the screw will go, so that there is more support and that will help prevent it from spinning? If just mounted on that one screw point, it will definitely put lots of pressure on the fuse, and could eventually crack that area. A plane that size weighs a good amount, and you don't know how it was built. Ask about a small cradle to spread the load. Thought of that too. Way too much detail for that, there is landing gear in that area and the customer wants a clear view. The airplane has been displayed multiple times, the single mount is adequate. They just want to to tilt and not spin now. I think I am going to talk him into going with a snug fit so that there will be some give in case something hits a wing and there needs to be give to prevent damage. On 11/2/2012 4:53 PM, Leon wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? |
#13
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
Can the 8mm threaded rod be bent very easily? If so, bend 1" of the end to 90° and imbed that end into the mounting post. Rip the mounting post if half, carve an appropriate channel for the bent rod, insert, and glue the mounting post back together.
Sonny |
#14
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 15:53:31 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? My experience with small set screws that are regularly loosened and tighten has let's say been problematic. I would be looking for a way to simply be able to pin it. If you thought about it you could probably device a wedged M&T mount with the metal hardware glued in. Mike M |
#15
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A picture is worth a thousand words
On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 17:15:11 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ To do the angles you might have to get Swingman to drag out the multirouter. Throw in your contrasting woods and I'd like it. Mike M |
#16
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
Would a Rigid Coupling help? Has 4 set screws and accommodates sizes 6mm to 50mm rods. http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/
Sonny |
#17
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On Friday, November 2, 2012 5:43:50 PM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
Would a Rigid Coupling help? Has 4 set screws and accommodates sizes 6mm to 50mm rods. http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/ Sonny Available with or without keyways, also. Sonny |
#18
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 15:53:31 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? The set screw has a hardened tip with a special profile that the cap screw will NOT have.. I'd put a flat on the rod where the "setscrew" is supposed to contact - either way. |
#19
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 14:20:33 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote: For whichever set screw you use, file flat a part of the 8mm threaded rod where the set screw will contact. Re-die the rod, if need be, if the filing messes up the threads on the rod, for screwing it onto whatever. With a flattened side on the rod, either set screw would not have to be tightened so tight. Sonny DON'T use threaded rod. Use a good alloy steel "shaft" threaded to fit the airplane, and a close drop fit into the stand - with a flat ground on the shaft to take the set-screw. |
#20
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 17:06:39 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 11/2/2012 4:20 PM, Sonny wrote: For whichever set screw you use, file flat a part of the 8mm threaded rod where the set screw will contact. Re-die the rod, if need be, if the filing messes up the threads on the rod, for screwing it onto whatever. With a flattened side on the rod, either set screw would not have to be tightened so tight. Sonny Thought of that too and the threads will not matter at that point. Filing would help but I personally will not be setting this display up over and over and the depth of the mounting stud "in the airplane itself" will be ever changing, which would change the location of the flat spot on the rod. Now if only I could find a key way slotted threaded rod..... Make sure that the depth into the airplane will always be the same, or simply tighten the jam nut at the airplane AFTER the set screw is installed. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
In article ,
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Have you considered drilling a through hole through the coupling and rod and using a cotter pin or hitch pin? -- When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org |
#22
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
"Leon" wrote: The airplane is mounted at a 30 degree angle. I thought about using a nut in the post but that would mean you would have to hold the 4' square airplane at an angle and spin it 16~20 times to mount and again to unmount. Actually I believe that it would be best if the airplane would spin if forced, which convention folk will do. I just don't want it to spin on its own or given a lite tough. Essentially the method you are describing will be used at the airplane to stud union. Setting the airplane stud in the mounting hole quickly will be a great advantage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Took a look at pics, Haven't yet figured out how the pooch is going to help. Is he the job superG? The following is based on you having access to metal working and welding. Picture a pipe flange. It will give you an idea of what I'm about to describe. Start with a 1" dia x 3" long CR1018 CRS and drill a 1/2" dia x 2" deep hole. From the opposite end, drill and tap 8MM threaded hole, 1-1/8" deep. This eliminates drilling an tapping the full 3". Cut a 3" dia x 1/4" thick piece from CR1018 CRS. Drill 12, 8 MM clearance holes, equally spaced on a 2-1/2" dia bolt circle. Drill a 1" clearance thru hole on centerline of 3" dia plate. Position 1" dia x 3" long piece in flat plate with 8 MM thread up and projecting 3/4" above plate, then weld. Using white oak or similar hard wood, cut a 3" dia x 3" long piece, then drill a 1" dia thru hole. (Parallel to end grain) Drill only one 8MM clearance hole x 1-1/2" deep on a 2-1/2" dia bolt circle. Mount this white oak piece in table at a 30 degree angle as req'd. Thread 8 MM lock nut and weldment onto plane stud as req'd. Drop weldment into white oak piece and rotate until hole in weldment lines up with hole in white oak piece, then insert 8MM pin to prevent rotation. Line up plane to final position and lock in place with lock nut. Grab a beer and greet the world with a **** eating grin. Have fun. BTW, if you can't find CR1018 CRS (Cold rolled), use CR 1020 HRS(Hot rolled) Lew |
#23
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 5:27 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/2/2012 5:15 PM, dpb wrote: .... Agree would be best to have a flat but probably won't matter too much...how much does the beastie weigh? In display mode about 20~25 lbs for the big one. I'd suggest a regular hex set screw--they've got the cup in the base to grab the target already plus they're hard. If need be, ship the allen wrench w/ it in a little cubby spot... .... Yeah, actually there seem to be about a dozen tips for set screws, Pointed, round, ball, .... Yes, the pointed, round, ball work best w/ a matching reset, the cup w/ the little toothies will bite into your threads iff'en you don't want the flat or they ignore it. I came to me this morning -- there's model-sizes of square and/or hex or octagonal telescoping tubing that would provide a specific orientation... -- |
#24
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 3:53 PM, Leon wrote:
I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? I would not use either as they require a separate tool which beg to be forgotten or lost. I would use a simple knob like this: http://www.reidsupply.com/products/k...s/lobed-knobs/ or if you want to get a bit fancier, one of these: http://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/28025071F0B221118070C1C513E111D081B0006280B1713050 245221E0107070F1A3C3B285352415B5B -- ___________________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . Dan G remove the seven |
#25
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 6:43 PM, Sonny wrote:
Would a Rigid Coupling help? Has 4 set screws and accommodates sizes 6mm to 50mm rods. http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/ Sonny This is what I was think of using. |
#26
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
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#27
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/2/2012 7:55 PM, Larry W wrote:
In article , Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: I have a commercial project coming up that requires me to build a display table for a couple of scale model airplanes, one is the Antonov 124. The models actual wing span is approximately 56", nose to tail is about 53". The airplane has a single 8mm mounting nut and is elevated from a platform by that mounting nut. I need to mount the airplane so that it will not spin while on display, that is one of the current problems. I have the details figured out, I think. There will be an 8mm threaded stud coming from the airplane to an elevated post and will do down into the post 3~4". I plan on embedding a 1" long set screw rod coupling 1/2" into the mounting post. The 8mm rod will go through that coupling and down another 3~4" into the post. Finally the question. A single 10/32 set screw, in the coupling, will tighten into the 8mm threaded shaft. Since this set screw is going to be used relatively often I have fears of a hex wrench eventually rounding out. My thought is to use a hex head cap screw instead, with a larger sized hex head. Will the cap screw hold as well as a set screw or will a snug set screw hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Have you considered drilling a through hole through the coupling and rod and using a cotter pin or hitch pin? Yes but the hle will not always be in the same position. Customer wants to be able to position to liking and then make stationary. |
#28
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Probable final solution
OK, Thank you all for your suggestions!
Swingman has suggested an entirely different approach, to probably a bit more costly, and it seems to address all the issues of mounting to the airplane and with a few modification of my own address being able to quickly mount the airplanes and mounts onto the display posts. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ Thanks again! |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
On 11/3/2012 9:11 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/2/2012 6:43 PM, Sonny wrote: Would a Rigid Coupling help? Has 4 set screws and accommodates sizes 6mm to 50mm rods. http://catalog.climaxmetal.com/ Sonny This is what I was think of using. Brother.... This is what I "was" thinking of using... http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1174/=k046is |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A picture is worth a thousand words
So here's my take on this
If you make it able to rotate, you might do more damage on the far wing, or smaller plane if the larger plane swings into the smaller mount or plane. But that is not my choice it's yours or your customer's. I still think you would be better with a belly cradle (smallish) and use the stud to secure it to the belly cradle. you might actually use a piece of metal in the cradle to allow it to be tilted based on their preference , so the metal plate is rounded (conforming to the bottom of the cradle) and has an elongated slot across the cradle (not lengthwise) allowing the model to be leaned at their preference. Tightening the nut would tighten the position the model is locked at. If you do decide to continue with the shaft and allow movement. Put an arm on the shaft and limiters to prevent the model from being able to swing if hit. Allow it to just remove the initial energy, but not damage the other model or itself. Wish I were good at sketchup. Wish I could draw... nice work you and Swingy do w/Sketchup. Now on to more important things.. Nice dog, but whats the cash of money doing on the table....??? Are you bragging??? On 11/2/2012 6:15 PM, Leon wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Set Screws vs. Cap Screws
Those conformable soft tip screws are very good for your purpose.
They will hold well, but like others say, use the length of the hole and shaft to control basic setup height. I would consider a stop collar with the conformable soft tip if you want other heights. The collar would probably already have a screw designed for a flat. http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-stop-collars/=k055cp http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-stop-collars/=k055p2 On 11/2/2012 6:27 PM, Leon wrote: On 11/2/2012 5:15 PM, dpb wrote: On 11/2/2012 3:53 PM, Leon wrote: ... hold as well as a cap screw that is tightened much tighter? The job of the set screw is only to prevent the rod from rotating, the bottom of the hole will maintain proper shaft depth. Thoughts? Agree would be best to have a flat but probably won't matter too much...how much does the beastie weigh? In display mode about 20~25 lbs for the big one. I'd suggest a regular hex set screw--they've got the cup in the base to grab the target already plus they're hard. If need be, ship the allen wrench w/ it in a little cubby spot... -- Yeah, actually there seem to be about a dozen tips for set screws, Pointed, round, ball, http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=jzs18u |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A picture is worth a thousand words
On 11/3/2012 10:13 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
So here's my take on this If you make it able to rotate, you might do more damage on the far wing, or smaller plane if the larger plane swings into the smaller mount or plane. But that is not my choice it's yours or your customer's. I still think you would be better with a belly cradle (smallish) and use the stud to secure it to the belly cradle. you might actually use a piece of metal in the cradle to allow it to be tilted based on their preference , so the metal plate is rounded (conforming to the bottom of the cradle) and has an elongated slot across the cradle (not lengthwise) allowing the model to be leaned at their preference. Tightening the nut would tighten the position the model is locked at. If you do decide to continue with the shaft and allow movement. Put an arm on the shaft and limiters to prevent the model from being able to swing if hit. Allow it to just remove the initial energy, but not damage the other model or itself. I under stand your concerns. These airplanes are not exactly fragile but my biggest concern is twisting the nut out of the bottom of the airplane. They do break down, the wings and landing gear come off, and are shipped from show to show in very nice shipping containers about the size of a small refrigerator. The airplanes already have stands that they are displayed on but not at the angle that the customer wants. He wants more tilt to take up less display floor space. Any way I think a rubber washer between the airplane and the jam nut might allow enough give should one of the wings take a bump. Wish I were good at sketchup. Wish I could draw... nice work you and Swingy do w/Sketchup. thanks! I probably spend 1/3 of my time designing, 2/3's building. A lot easier and less expensive to get it right on a drawing. Now on to more important things.. Nice dog, The one sucking the pillow? I swear she would smoke cigarettes if they were around. but whats the cash of money doing on the table....??? Are you bragging??? Payment for a kitchen job about 8 years ago, neighbor pricing. ;~( |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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A picture is worth a thousand words
On 11/3/2012 11:05 AM, Leon wrote:
but whats the cash of money doing on the table....??? Are you bragging??? Payment for a kitchen job about 8 years ago, neighbor pricing. ;~( Yabbut, Leon .... you're not supposed to leave it on the table for all that time ... Shhheeeeesh! LOL -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
On 11/3/2012 2:38 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon? Almost a guarantee, eh? -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message ... OK, Thank you all for your suggestions! Swingman has suggested an entirely different approach, to probably a bit more costly, and it seems to address all the issues of mounting to the airplane and with a few modification of my own address being able to quickly mount the airplanes and mounts onto the display posts. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ Some potential problem with that approach Leon. There isn't room for 176 dominos! And there is no contrasting woods. And where will you put the 36 drawers? ;-) |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 15:17:39 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 11/3/2012 2:38 PM, Dave wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon? Almost a guarantee, eh? Not in today's world. Besides, the people designing planes and the people in charge of the displays are bound to be different. Mr. Murphy is in charge of that little facet, isn't he? -- The great thing about getting older is that you don't lose all the other ages you've been. -- Madeleine L'Engle |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 15:17:39 -0500, Swingman wrote: On 11/3/2012 2:38 PM, Dave wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon? Almost a guarantee, eh? Not in today's world. Besides, the people designing planes and the people in charge of the displays are bound to be different. Mr. Murphy is in charge of that little facet, isn't he? Not necessarily your concern. Assuming/guessing who's in charge of what notwithstanding, what is a fact is that when you design-to-build to someone's very specific, and apparently in this case, commercial specifications, your preference about how it is ultimately used don't necessarily mean **** .... unfortunate or not. -- www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile) |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
you would think. I have been to a number of shows. Most are high and out
of the way, but anytime one is low like that, it's there for most to touch. I guess it depends on the venue. On 11/3/2012 4:17 PM, Swingman wrote: On 11/3/2012 2:38 PM, Dave wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon? Almost a guarantee, eh? |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Probable final solution
On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 16:15:17 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 15:17:39 -0500, Swingman wrote: On 11/3/2012 2:38 PM, Dave wrote: On Sat, 03 Nov 2012 09:26:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/ If those dimensions are correct, I'd be terrified of someone brushing against one of those wings as they were walking by and ripping a plane from its foundations. My preference would be to organize a strong enough mounting bracket and mount the planes vertically or sideways higher up on a wall. My guess is that anybody smart enough to be in the airplane business knows how to protect one, even if it is just a model ... like maybe having displays behind roped off areas, you reckon? Almost a guarantee, eh? Not in today's world. Besides, the people designing planes and the people in charge of the displays are bound to be different. Mr. Murphy is in charge of that little facet, isn't he? Not necessarily your concern. Assuming/guessing who's in charge of what notwithstanding, what is a fact is that when you design-to-build to someone's very specific, and apparently in this case, commercial specifications, your preference about how it is ultimately used don't necessarily mean **** .... unfortunate or not. Nope, not our (and probably not Leon's) concern at all. But a good vendor of components attempts to pass on potentially good info to the client in case he hasn't thought of it. One or two quick questions, if they're amenable to them, and from there, it's up the client. Give them what they think they want, then go back & fix it later, right? Along a similar but different line, I've walked away from building or rebuilding a couple projects because the client didn't care about safety or code (not that I know much about them, either.) I used the ploy "That method is not up to building code requirements and my insurance company won't allow me to do that." -- The great thing about getting older is that you don't lose all the other ages you've been. -- Madeleine L'Engle |
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