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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the house is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.

My location is west Houston / Katy area.

Very much appreciate any comments / suggestions on how to proceed - including
recommendations of craftsman / companies that are known to do reliable and high quality
door refinishing.

What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued, screwed, or both?

Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?

Thanks in advance for comments from the group!

Regards,

Doug


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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the house is also not a
good idea.


You do not want to spray or apply spar varnish to the interior side of
the door. Spar varnish remains some what soft and flexible to resist
cracking. Basically the door will always have a bit of a sticky feel.
Use it only on the outside surface. Apply the new coat of varnish with
a brush or small roller.



Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.


So you caulk those holes and repaint.


My location is west Houston / Katy area.


Me 2


Very much appreciate any comments / suggestions on how to proceed - including
recommendations of craftsman / companies that are known to do reliable and high quality
door refinishing.


For what is worth, refinishing your door is probably going to be an
"regular maintenance" procedure every 3~5 years and probably more often
if your door faces west and or east and gets direct sun exposure.


What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued, screwed, or both?


Take our pick, normally screwed.


Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?


No.


Thanks in advance for comments from the group!

Regards,

Doug



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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door


"Doug" wrote in message

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to their
shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive to
having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.



Holes are easily filled and finished. I'd not be concerned at all. Easier
than posting a guard at the door at night. If these guys are pros, they
will do a pro job in the end.




What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued, screwed,
or both?

Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?


Screws, after the finish is applied.




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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the house is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.


Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to the
jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you have to use
an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be possible for them to hang
a temporary door off the existing hinges along with your handle and lock
hardware so you could actually *use* the thing, and so that you wouldn't have
to repair any damage to the jamb afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 06/07/2012 08:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to
undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have
a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the
house is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive
to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.


Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


Well, if all the hinge/latch spacing/types were standard...


--
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gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


Call me denser ... 7-10 days to refinish a door??

Not even the entry door to the Vatican would take that long. I think I
would look for another re-finisher.

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


don't you have to mortise the hinges into the jamb for the door to
actually work? it's just not a matter of filling a few screw holes in
that case.

it's a temp door. why not leave the hinges in the jamb and mortise the
temp door to accept the existing hinges. that way, the jamb doesn't have
to change. the shop may have to occasionally by a temp door when the one
they're using gets torn up too much from different houses.

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 10:19 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 06/07/2012 08:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to
undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have
a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the
house is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive
to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.


Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


Well, if all the hinge/latch spacing/types were standard...


And more likely the weather strip at the bottom of the door and
perimeter of the door will not mate properly.

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the house is also not a
good idea.



It's a door not a work of art. Put a drop cloth on the floor. You can
strip sand and varnish the thing in place.

Spray??? A paint brush will work just as well.

It's said necessity is the mother of invention. Are you finding it
necessary to invent an excuse to get out of doing the job?

LdB
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to
undertake this myself, however not clear this would be the best
course of action.


Why not?
___________

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have
a spare door to put in place while the door is off being refinished.
Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the
house is also not a good idea.


There is no reason that it can't be finished in place and there is no reason
to spray it. It isn't all that hard to get a good brushed on varnish
finish. You DO need a *good* brush.

You also don't want spar varnish. For some obtuse reason, people seem to
think that spar varnish is the ne plus ultra of varnishes. Not so. As I
and others have explained many times it is a specialized varnish for a
specialized purpose; namely, varnishing spars. It is good for that because
it is softer and more flexible and spars bend.
_______________

Very much appreciate any comments / suggestions on how to proceed -
including recommendations of craftsman / companies that are known to
do reliable and high quality door refinishing.


I would do it myself. I would go buy a decent marine varnish with an UV
inhibitor, a good brush and have at it. You probably wouldn't need more
than a quart.

Step one is sanding down the old finish; if it is varnish, no need to
totally remove it, just get down to a good layer. Step two is
varnishing...you flow it on and want the varnish thin enough to flow easily
but not so thin (or applied so thickly) that it runs. You'll need to apply
several (4-6) coats and don't do it in the sun.

I would not use a poly varnish; it is hard and durable but MUCH harder to
refinish. I'd use an alkyd/phenolic varnish. I always liked Z-Spar (the
"spar" in the brand name doesn't mean it is spar vanish). Here's one
source...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...keyword=z_spar

___________________________

What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued,
screwed, or both?


I'd screw it. With small, round head brass screws (assuming the plate is
brass).
________________

Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?


After

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Swingman wrote:
On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's
screwed to the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of
the house you have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days?
Wouldn't it be possible for them to hang a temporary door off the
existing hinges along with your handle and lock hardware so you
could actually *use* the thing, and so that you wouldn't have to
repair any damage to the jamb afterwords? Doesn't seem that
difficult to me...


Call me denser ... 7-10 days to refinish a door??

Not even the entry door to the Vatican would take that long. I think I
would look for another re-finisher.


Of course you would not consider backlog...

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

chaniarts wrote:
On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's
screwed to the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of
the house you have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days?
Wouldn't it be possible for them to hang a temporary door off the
existing hinges along with your handle and lock hardware so you
could actually *use* the thing, and so that you wouldn't have to
repair any damage to the jamb afterwords? Doesn't seem that
difficult to me...


don't you have to mortise the hinges into the jamb for the door to
actually work? it's just not a matter of filling a few screw holes in
that case.

it's a temp door. why not leave the hinges in the jamb and mortise the
temp door to accept the existing hinges. that way, the jamb doesn't
have to change. the shop may have to occasionally by a temp door when
the one they're using gets torn up too much from different houses.


I would have thought that's exactly what they would do. Nothing in the
original post that I saw, which would suggest otherwise.

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Leon wrote:


And more likely the weather strip at the bottom of the door and
perimeter of the door will not mate properly.


Temporary Leon - temporary...

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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 1:26 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


And more likely the weather strip at the bottom of the door and
perimeter of the door will not mate properly.


Temporary Leon - temporary...


No, I mean the door may not even close. Some doors have a sweep some
have a copper flex strip. They do not interchange.
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door


"Doug" wrote in message
...
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to undertake
this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have a
spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the house
is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to their
shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.


While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive to
having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.


I take it that they are essentially installing a pre-hung door unit sized to
fit within the existing jamb....? If so, and filling is not acceptable,
perhaps the door stops could be removed, the temporary jamb screwed into the
area behind the stops, and the stops replaced after the door is reinstalled.
That way the new holes would be concealed by the stops.

Alternatively, I'd think it wouldn't be hard to secure the temporary door
from the inside with the frame up against the existing stops with screws
into the jambs in the area covered by the door when it's closed. Filling
there wouldn't be noticeable.

What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued, screwed,
or both?

Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?


Screwed on after refinishing.

John



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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On 6/7/2012 11:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
chaniarts wrote:
On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.


Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's
screwed to the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of
the house you have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days?
Wouldn't it be possible for them to hang a temporary door off the
existing hinges along with your handle and lock hardware so you
could actually *use* the thing, and so that you wouldn't have to
repair any damage to the jamb afterwords? Doesn't seem that
difficult to me...


don't you have to mortise the hinges into the jamb for the door to
actually work? it's just not a matter of filling a few screw holes in
that case.

it's a temp door. why not leave the hinges in the jamb and mortise the
temp door to accept the existing hinges. that way, the jamb doesn't
have to change. the shop may have to occasionally by a temp door when
the one they're using gets torn up too much from different houses.


I would have thought that's exactly what they would do. Nothing in the
original post that I saw, which would suggest otherwise.


OP: While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not
receptive to having 6 screw holes left in the door frame.

this sort of implies that he'll have NEW holes that he has to fill,
which sort of implies that no, they're not using the existing hinge
mortices.
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On Thu, 07 Jun 2012 11:24:20 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 6/7/2012 10:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.



Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


Call me denser ... 7-10 days to refinish a door??

Not even the entry door to the Vatican would take that long. I think I
would look for another re-finisher.


They may be redoing a lot of doors to need that wait time. Maybe they
have only one stripper/strip tank, small shop, etc. Or maybe it's the
One Guy Does Doors company. If they're anything like me, I prefer to
let the refinished item air out for a week before putting it inside
the house. Lots of people are becoming sensitized to offgassing, so
that's one very valid (potential) reason for a delay.

--
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

On Thu, 07 Jun 2012 11:52:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/7/2012 10:19 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 06/07/2012 08:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 6/7/2012 6:53 AM, Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to
undertake this myself,
however not clear this would be the best course of action.

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have
a spare door to put
in place while the door is off being refinished.

Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the
house is also not a
good idea.

Found a local shop that does this work - they remove your door to
their shop for 7-10
days, and install a temporary door by screwing it to the door jam.

While that may be a secure way to install the door - am not receptive
to having 6 screw
holes left in the door frame.

Call me dense, but it's not really a temporary "door" if it's screwed to
the jamb, is it? I guess in order to get in and out of the house you
have to use an alternate door for that 7-10 days? Wouldn't it be
possible for them to hang a temporary door off the existing hinges along
with your handle and lock hardware so you could actually *use* the
thing, and so that you wouldn't have to repair any damage to the jamb
afterwords? Doesn't seem that difficult to me...


Well, if all the hinge/latch spacing/types were standard...


And more likely the weather strip at the bottom of the door and
perimeter of the door will not mate properly.

cut plywood to fit the door opening- glue blocks on inside to attach
hinge and latch. Not an uncommon solution after break-in damage, or
when a new door needs to be ordered due to other damage.
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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Thanks to all for the great advice!

I failed to mention that only the exterior surface of the door needs to be refinished -
which will likely also require staining, as the lower portion has been exposed to water
splashing off the front porch.

The area to be stained will have to be sanded to bare wood

As with the recommendation for varnish - is there a particular type / brand of stain best
suited for this application?

Plan to use a kick plate - so the area to be stained is significantly reduced.

When selecting a kick plate - are there ready made kick plates for standard size doors, or
is it better to purchase a piece of brass custom cut to size?

What is the typical thickness of a kick plate?

By finished in place do you mean leave the door on the hinges instead of laying down
horizontal?

Showing my lack of experience here - however, would think that to brush apply varnish on a
vertical surface is a sure way to get runs / sags.

After applying a coat of varnish - would it be advisable to provide some form of
protective barrier in front of the surface to ensure nothing gets on / stuck in the wet
varnish?

How can I test the existing finish to determine if it is varnish?

Armed with the benefit of experience from everyone's comments - will start the job this
weekend.

Although not that experienced at wood finishing - do enjoy the work and the results if
they turn out as desired. If not - sand and repeat!

Thanks again to all!

Regards,

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug wrote:
All,

Need to refinish my mahogany front entry door - would like to
undertake this myself, however not clear this would be the best
course of action.


Why not?
___________

Understand that finishing in place is not practical and I do not have
a spare door to put in place while the door is off being refinished.
Spraying a large surface with multiple coasts of spar varnish in the
house is also not a good idea.


There is no reason that it can't be finished in place and there is no reason
to spray it. It isn't all that hard to get a good brushed on varnish
finish. You DO need a *good* brush.

You also don't want spar varnish. For some obtuse reason, people seem to
think that spar varnish is the ne plus ultra of varnishes. Not so. As I
and others have explained many times it is a specialized varnish for a
specialized purpose; namely, varnishing spars. It is good for that because
it is softer and more flexible and spars bend.
_______________

Very much appreciate any comments / suggestions on how to proceed -
including recommendations of craftsman / companies that are known to
do reliable and high quality door refinishing.


I would do it myself. I would go buy a decent marine varnish with an UV
inhibitor, a good brush and have at it. You probably wouldn't need more
than a quart.

Step one is sanding down the old finish; if it is varnish, no need to
totally remove it, just get down to a good layer. Step two is
varnishing...you flow it on and want the varnish thin enough to flow easily
but not so thin (or applied so thickly) that it runs. You'll need to apply
several (4-6) coats and don't do it in the sun.

I would not use a poly varnish; it is hard and durable but MUCH harder to
refinish. I'd use an alkyd/phenolic varnish. I always liked Z-Spar (the
"spar" in the brand name doesn't mean it is spar vanish). Here's one
source...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...keyword=z_spar

___________________________

What is the preferred method for installing a kick plate - glued,
screwed, or both?


I'd screw it. With small, round head brass screws (assuming the plate is
brass).
________________

Is the kick plate installed before the finish is applied?


After


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Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Doug wrote:
Thanks to all for the great advice!

I failed to mention that only the exterior surface of the door needs
to be refinished - which will likely also require staining, as the
lower portion has been exposed to water splashing off the front porch.

The area to be stained will have to be sanded to bare wood

As with the recommendation for varnish - is there a particular type /
brand of stain best suited for this application?


Why would you want to stain mahogany? If you think you are going to even up
different colors between the bottom, splashed area and the rest then think
again, you won't. Better to sand down the entire surface. If the bottom is
blackened because the finish had worn away, bleach it. With wood bleach
(oxalic acid).
_____________________


When selecting a kick plate - are there ready made kick plates for
standard size doors, or is it better to purchase a piece of brass
custom cut to size?


Yes, there are ready made plates.. Have you checked Google?
__________________

What is the typical thickness of a kick plate?


Jeez, who knows? Somewhere between a RCH and 1/2". Personally, I wouldn't
use one, just a further complication and I don't kick my door.
_____________________

By finished in place do you mean leave the door on the hinges instead
of laying down horizontal?


Yes. You can't do the job in one day. You need several coats and each coat
takes multiple hours to dry which means a temporary door if you take it off
the hinges. Taking off is better but not very practical.
________________

Showing my lack of experience here - however, would think that to
brush apply varnish on a vertical surface is a sure way to get runs /
sags.


Not if you apply it correctly...thinned so it flows together, not thin
enough or applied heavily enough to run.
______________

After applying a coat of varnish - would it be advisable to provide
some form of protective barrier in front of the surface to ensure
nothing gets on / stuck in the wet varnish?


Wouldn't matter, something will get stuck in it anyway. Any bugs will just
brush off once they and the varnish have dried.
__________________

How can I test the existing finish to determine if it is varnish?


Wipe it with lacquer thinner...if it dissolves easily it isn't varnish.
Doesn't much matter what the existing finish is anyway as long as you sand
it to bare wood or even just enough to get rid of oxidation and any
yellowish, non-adhered areas

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? .Check it out...

http://www.dadioh.net




  #21   Report Post  
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Posts: 6
Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

The application instructions for both Z-Spar's Captain's and Flagship varnish state that
wood in poor condition - which I believe is what I have - should be coated same as bare
wood after cleaning / sanding, which requires the use of Pettit or Z-Spar Paste Wood
Filler Stain on open grained wood such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc., followed by a generous
covering coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer and then the Captain's or Flagship varnish.

Understand these procedures are intended for marine use.

Are they required / recommended for use on the exterior of a home door?

Not clear what is meant by wood in poor condition - my door has no black areas, although
the color is noticeably lighter in several areas - in particular the bottom 8-10 in.

The application instructions also state - do not apply the varnish on extremely humid
days. This is about all we have in Houston this time of year. Is not clear what humidity
level is considered excessive.

My plan is to leave the door on the hinges and cover the door opening with heavy plastic
sheet taped in place as a barrier between indoors and outdoors while the door is open.

Hopefully this will negate the effect of excessive humidity.

Looking forward to getting started and a much better looking door!

Thank You for your most helpful comments.

Regards,

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug wrote:
Thanks to all for the great advice!

I failed to mention that only the exterior surface of the door needs
to be refinished - which will likely also require staining, as the
lower portion has been exposed to water splashing off the front porch.

The area to be stained will have to be sanded to bare wood

As with the recommendation for varnish - is there a particular type /
brand of stain best suited for this application?


Why would you want to stain mahogany? If you think you are going to even up
different colors between the bottom, splashed area and the rest then think
again, you won't. Better to sand down the entire surface. If the bottom is
blackened because the finish had worn away, bleach it. With wood bleach
(oxalic acid).
_____________________


When selecting a kick plate - are there ready made kick plates for
standard size doors, or is it better to purchase a piece of brass
custom cut to size?


Yes, there are ready made plates.. Have you checked Google?
__________________

What is the typical thickness of a kick plate?


Jeez, who knows? Somewhere between a RCH and 1/2". Personally, I wouldn't
use one, just a further complication and I don't kick my door.
_____________________

By finished in place do you mean leave the door on the hinges instead
of laying down horizontal?


Yes. You can't do the job in one day. You need several coats and each coat
takes multiple hours to dry which means a temporary door if you take it off
the hinges. Taking off is better but not very practical.
________________

Showing my lack of experience here - however, would think that to
brush apply varnish on a vertical surface is a sure way to get runs /
sags.


Not if you apply it correctly...thinned so it flows together, not thin
enough or applied heavily enough to run.
______________

After applying a coat of varnish - would it be advisable to provide
some form of protective barrier in front of the surface to ensure
nothing gets on / stuck in the wet varnish?


Wouldn't matter, something will get stuck in it anyway. Any bugs will just
brush off once they and the varnish have dried.
__________________

How can I test the existing finish to determine if it is varnish?


Wipe it with lacquer thinner...if it dissolves easily it isn't varnish.
Doesn't much matter what the existing finish is anyway as long as you sand
it to bare wood or even just enough to get rid of oxidation and any
yellowish, non-adhered areas


  #22   Report Post  
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Posts: 3,848
Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Doug wrote:
The application instructions for both Z-Spar's Captain's and Flagship
varnish state that wood in poor condition - which I believe is what I
have - should be coated same as bare wood after cleaning / sanding,
which requires the use of Pettit or Z-Spar Paste Wood Filler Stain on
open grained wood such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc., followed by a
generous covering coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer and then the
Captain's or Flagship varnish.

Understand these procedures are intended for marine use.

Are they required / recommended for use on the exterior of a home
door?


The only purpose of wood filler is to fill the grain on wood with deep pores
such as oak, mahogany, et al.

The only purpose of filling the grain is to have a perfectly flat, smooth
surface so you can wind up with a baby ass smooth varnished surface. A
really good, high gloss varnished surface is a thing of beauty. One rarely
sees it because it takes a lot of work and time.

That smoothness can also be achieved - albeit, less rapidly - by applying
several coats of varnish, letting it dry *thourghly*, sanding until no
dimples from the recessed grain are visible and then applying additional
coats of varnish.

Paste wood filler is made from finely ground silica - silex - mixed with a
binder. If it is "natural" it has no or very little color as the silica
becomes transparent when top coated. Colors can be added to the paste wood
filler to stain and fill at the same time. Personally, I would neither
stain nor fill an exterior mahogany door. I would apply 4-6 coats of
varnish letting each dry enough so that it can be lightly sanded before
applying the next. If I wanted a superlative job (I wouldn't), I would let
the door dry for a month after the preceding; I would then sand til no sheen
was left and apply at least another 3 coats.
_______________

Not clear what is meant by wood in poor condition - my door has no
black areas, although the color is noticeably lighter in several
areas - in particular the bottom 8-10 in.


Uncoated...weathered...oxidized. Thorough sanding fixes it.
_________________

The application instructions also state - do not apply the varnish on
extremely humid days. This is about all we have in Houston this time
of year. Is not clear what humidity level is considered excessive.


Enough so the varnish doesn't dry. Don't know if varnish will blush like
lacquer, kinda doubt it. Don't apply in direct sun either.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? .Check it out...
http://www.dadioh.net


  #23   Report Post  
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Posts: 15
Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

The Z Spar Flagship varnish and T10 thinner should arrive early next week - then the work
begins!

What make and type brush do you suggest?

Reading other posts I know a natural bristle brush is required - although am certain that
not all brands of this type brush are equal.

Some brushes have the end profile of the bristle bundle cut an angle - what is the purpose
for this style?

What criteria determines the max. width of the brush?

Thanks again for your's and everyone's very helpful comments - now I just have to not mess
it up!

Regards,

Doug



"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug wrote:
The application instructions for both Z-Spar's Captain's and Flagship
varnish state that wood in poor condition - which I believe is what I
have - should be coated same as bare wood after cleaning / sanding,
which requires the use of Pettit or Z-Spar Paste Wood Filler Stain on
open grained wood such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc., followed by a
generous covering coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer and then the
Captain's or Flagship varnish.

Understand these procedures are intended for marine use.

Are they required / recommended for use on the exterior of a home
door?


The only purpose of wood filler is to fill the grain on wood with deep pores
such as oak, mahogany, et al.

The only purpose of filling the grain is to have a perfectly flat, smooth
surface so you can wind up with a baby ass smooth varnished surface. A
really good, high gloss varnished surface is a thing of beauty. One rarely
sees it because it takes a lot of work and time.

That smoothness can also be achieved - albeit, less rapidly - by applying
several coats of varnish, letting it dry *thourghly*, sanding until no
dimples from the recessed grain are visible and then applying additional
coats of varnish.

Paste wood filler is made from finely ground silica - silex - mixed with a
binder. If it is "natural" it has no or very little color as the silica
becomes transparent when top coated. Colors can be added to the paste wood
filler to stain and fill at the same time. Personally, I would neither
stain nor fill an exterior mahogany door. I would apply 4-6 coats of
varnish letting each dry enough so that it can be lightly sanded before
applying the next. If I wanted a superlative job (I wouldn't), I would let
the door dry for a month after the preceding; I would then sand til no sheen
was left and apply at least another 3 coats.
_______________

Not clear what is meant by wood in poor condition - my door has no
black areas, although the color is noticeably lighter in several
areas - in particular the bottom 8-10 in.


Uncoated...weathered...oxidized. Thorough sanding fixes it.
_________________

The application instructions also state - do not apply the varnish on
extremely humid days. This is about all we have in Houston this time
of year. Is not clear what humidity level is considered excessive.


Enough so the varnish doesn't dry. Don't know if varnish will blush like
lacquer, kinda doubt it. Don't apply in direct sun either.


  #24   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 3,848
Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Doug Hortvet wrote:
The Z Spar Flagship varnish and T10 thinner should arrive early next
week - then the work begins!

What make and type brush do you suggest?


One with the finest hair possible. Not black bristle. White bristle is
better, badger is even better. Best would be red sable (artist brush) if
they were available wide enough; if they were they would cost a fortune.

I like a brush that tapers at the end and with the bristles flagged (split).
Generally, the finer the hair the smoother you can apply the varnish. Of
course, I sometimes use a chip brush, depends on what you are doing, how
good a job you want and whether or not you are going to rub it down at the
end.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Hair+Br ushes

http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Arti...AL/brshvar.htm


Reading other posts I know a natural bristle brush is required -
although am certain that not all brands of this type brush are equal.

Some brushes have the end profile of the bristle bundle cut an angle
- what is the purpose for this style?


That's a sash brush. Makes it easier to paint into corners.

What criteria determines the max. width of the brush?


The size of the area being painted. You wouldn't want to varnish a floor
with a 1" brush, right? And you wouldn't want to paint a 1 1/2" face
frame with a 4"brush (you could skew it though). For a door, I'd want a
brush narrower then the stiles; probably 3". If it has panels with fancy
edges a 1" would be nice too; however, I have a 1/2" red sable brush - had
it for decades - that I can use for that sort of thing.

Have fun and keep a wet edge.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net


  #25   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 15
Default Need to refinish a mahogany front entry door

Door is sanded except for the areas bordering the trim i.e., small interior corners and
convex molding surfaces, of which there are many - cannot get the sanpaper in the small
areas without sanding down the edges.

What are your thoughts on the use of chemical stippers?

While the idea of using a finish removing chemical is not preferred - may be the only way
to get to clean wood.

Thanks again for all the great advice!

Regards,

Doug




"dadiOH" wrote:

Doug Hortvet wrote:
The Z Spar Flagship varnish and T10 thinner should arrive early next
week - then the work begins!

What make and type brush do you suggest?


One with the finest hair possible. Not black bristle. White bristle is
better, badger is even better. Best would be red sable (artist brush) if
they were available wide enough; if they were they would cost a fortune.

I like a brush that tapers at the end and with the bristles flagged (split).
Generally, the finer the hair the smoother you can apply the varnish. Of
course, I sometimes use a chip brush, depends on what you are doing, how
good a job you want and whether or not you are going to rub it down at the
end.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Hair+Br ushes

http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Arti...AL/brshvar.htm


Reading other posts I know a natural bristle brush is required -
although am certain that not all brands of this type brush are equal.

Some brushes have the end profile of the bristle bundle cut an angle
- what is the purpose for this style?


That's a sash brush. Makes it easier to paint into corners.

What criteria determines the max. width of the brush?


The size of the area being painted. You wouldn't want to varnish a floor
with a 1" brush, right? And you wouldn't want to paint a 1 1/2" face
frame with a 4"brush (you could skew it though). For a door, I'd want a
brush narrower then the stiles; probably 3". If it has panels with fancy
edges a 1" would be nice too; however, I have a 1/2" red sable brush - had
it for decades - that I can use for that sort of thing.

Have fun and keep a wet edge.


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