Ping Leon
 

Did you ever find a edge sander?

Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19 & 20: http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.as...tails&id=15986

Ping Leon
 

On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
Did you ever find a edge sander?

Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20: http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.as...tails&id=15986


Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against
the edge sander for the time being.

For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.

White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
a baby's butt, and no burn.

Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.

Ping Leon
 

Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
Did you ever find a edge sander?

Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.as...tails&id=15986


Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
edge sander for the time being.

For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.

White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
a baby's butt, and no burn.

Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.

Ping Leon
 

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.








On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
Did you ever find a edge sander?

Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.as...tails&id=15986


Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
edge sander for the time being.

For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.

White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
a baby's butt, and no burn.

Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.

Ping Leon
 

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
================================================== ======
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.








On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
Did you ever find a edge sander?

Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.as...tails&id=15986


Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
edge sander for the time being.

For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.

White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
a baby's butt, and no burn.

Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.

Ping Leon
 

On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
================================================== ======
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.



Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.


No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.

Ping Leon
 

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
================================================== ======
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.



Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.


No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.
================================================== ==================
Never tried it on cherry. Does a great job on white oak and maple.

Ping Leon
 

Leon, you ever consider the 30t WWII?
It will allow you to rip faster. I don't know how the crosscuts would
be, but that would help eliminate the burning.


That's the penalty for a general use blade like the 40T. It does
everything well, not perfect.

On 5/17/2012 9:13 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
================================================== ======
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.



Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.


No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.

Ping Leon
 

On 5/17/2012 11:41 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Leon, you ever consider the 30t WWII?
It will allow you to rip faster. I don't know how the crosscuts would
be, but that would help eliminate the burning.


That's the penalty for a general use blade like the 40T. It does
everything well, not perfect.

Yeah I have considered it........ might shoot Forrest an e-mail and see
what they have to say..

Ping Leon
 

On 5/17/2012 11:16 AM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.

Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
================================================== ======
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.



Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.


No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.
================================================== ==================
Never tried it on cherry. Does a great job on white oak and maple.

Well then it should do well on cherry too, I would think. I'll have to
look a little closer at that blade. Thanks.