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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front
loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On 7/2/2011 7:09 PM, RimaNeas wrote:
eed any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn This is just my opinion but it seems that it would have to be quite solid and fasten to the wall. Have you ever seen a washer walking across the floor when things get out of balance? |
#3
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 2, 7:09*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. *Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. *I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? *I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. *I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... *Any info/experience would be appreciated. A number of the front load washer manufacturers make pedestals for just such a situation, and you should investigate that route before committing time and money into building one. They're not cheap, but if you keep an eye on eBay and Craigslist you could probably scoop one up for a reasonable amount. A drawer in the store-bought pedestal base is a major benefit, and the pedestals usually bolt to the underside of the machine so there's little danger of the thing walking off. R |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"RimaNeas" wrote in message ... I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn They do walk sometimes and a 1" lip would be good tiled top would not be any good as if the machined decided to take a trip somewhere, the movement would crack the tiles. I built one out of 14 ply 12" high and cut the corners out of the top piece for more stability for the feet of the machine. You could go over the top and put a drawer in it for the washing liquid etc. I only went 12" high because of the dryer on top of the washer. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
I recently built one. 2x4 construction for the frame screwed to the
wall, with oak plywood on the sides and OSB for the platform painted the same color as the walls. The oak matches the trim in the house and was left over from another project. Total cost less than $20 and looks a whole laot better than the $250 for the store bought ones. I got the washer up by tilting it side to side while my wife put a 2x4 under the high side. Tepeat ten times. I put a lip on top but the LG washer has dynamic balancing and does not move On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:09:20 -0800, "RimaNeas" wrote: I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:09:20 -0800, "RimaNeas" wrote:
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. I'd think the vibrations of the washer's spin cycle would be pretty tough on glue joints, not to mention the problems with exposure to water. |
#7
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 3, 7:20*pm, Ray wrote:
I recently built one. *2x4 construction for the frame screwed to the wall, with oak plywood on the sides and OSB for the platform painted the same color as the walls. *The oak matches the trim in the house and was left over from another project. *Total cost less than $20 and looks a whole laot better than the $250 for the store bought ones. *I got the washer up by tilting it side to side while my wife put a 2x4 under the high side. *Tepeat ten times. *I put a lip on top but the LG washer has dynamic balancing and does not move $250? Maybe if you're paying full MSRP. Check the completed auctions on eBay. You can get one for well less than half that if you are patient. Factor in time, the fact that you have to take the machine off of your platform to service it, whereas the bolted on pedestal moves with the machine, the painted steel pedestal is less susceptible to water damage, etc. I would think that the pedestal designed by the manufacturer to go with the washer would match the machine perfectly, so I'm not sure how a homemade one could look better. Not trying to rain on your parade, just offering the OP different opinions. R |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"RimaNeas" wrote in message ...
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn ----------------------- Save your money and time, each wash. Get an old fashioned top load and have some actual storage cabinets above it on the wall. With a top-load washer your clothes will actually get clean in less than four hours of waiting without detergent residue to irritate your skin. If you want to save water get a suds saver machine. The fad is fading, from poor user experience, just as it did back in the 50s and 60sm before, due too many problems that haven`t been fixed yet. It`s all hype no matter what the sales con-artists are telling the wallets. I have experienced a few very expensive machines. Flame away mike |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
RicodJour wrote in
: A number of the front load washer manufacturers make pedestals for just such a situation, and you should investigate that route before committing time and money into building one. They're not cheap, but if you keep an eye on eBay and Craigslist you could probably scoop one up for a reasonable amount. A drawer in the store-bought pedestal base is a major benefit, and the pedestals usually bolt to the underside of the machine so there's little danger of the thing walking off. R A word of caution: Not all pedestals can be mounted to all machines easily. They intentionally change mounting patterns and the like to keep this from happening. We mounted one on the dryer with a help of a couple of drills and sheet metal screws. It just took a little work. Puckdropper |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"HeyBub" wrote in message
Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. Oh too funny... I had not even thought about the weight of water!! Lets see, a 4 cf washer can hold .11 cubic meter of water which comes in at another 220Lb... and if the dryer is full of wet heavy clothes. Yep, that's heavy. Thanks for pointing that out. Cheers, Shawn PS: I will also look up "Marine Fiddles"... thanks. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
I'd think the vibrations of the washer's spin cycle would be pretty tough on glue joints, not to mention the problems with exposure to water. Exposure to water???? Ain't supposed to be no exposure to water in your laundry room. Today's front loaders don't quake, shake and creep like the the top loaders used to. Different dynamics. -- -Mike- |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
m II wrote:
Save your money and time, each wash. Get an old fashioned top load and have some actual storage cabinets above it on the wall. With a top-load washer your clothes will actually get clean in less than four hours of waiting without detergent residue to irritate your skin. If you want to save water get a suds saver machine. The fad is fading, from poor user experience, just as it did back in the 50s and 60sm before, due too many problems that haven`t been fixed yet. It`s all hype no matter what the sales con-artists are telling the wallets. I have experienced a few very expensive machines. Flame away Not me - I'm not going to flame your comments. We bought a front loader a few years ago, and if I had to do it again, I'd have a top loader there now. Front loaders require HE detergents or the tub bearings get eaten alive, they really do not clean as well as top loaders. But - it's down there in the laundry room now, and it'll stay there until the time comes when it's going to cost me money. -- -Mike- |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On 7/4/2011 8:01 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Not me - I'm not going to flame your comments. We bought a front loader a few years ago, and if I had to do it again, I'd have a top loader there now. Front loaders require HE detergents or the tub bearings get eaten alive, they really do not clean as well as top loaders. But - it's down there in the laundry room now, and it'll stay there until the time comes when it's going to cost me money. Ditto ... last time we bought, about nine years ago, I let LOML make that decision since she is the one who is doing the washing and she went for the front loader. Big mistake. Next time, and it shouldn't be long, it will a top loader, or it's back to a wash tub and wringer for her. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
Not to worry. Front loaders do NOT WALK. Hell, they hardly move at all
- the forces are entirely different. Having said that, think of how a wood floor system is built - maybe 2 x 8 with a three-quarter inch sub-floor and tiled over and build that and trim out to match your cabinets. Don't over think it, Yes the washers are HEAVY, but the kid from our local Sears actually lifted it out to the truck for us! Boy, is he going to have back issues later on in life! Get the pair - take your time - look for closeouts. We got the RED one for $39 (washer) and saw the Dryer go or $199! (Originally $1,100 each! |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
Swingman wrote in
: On 7/4/2011 8:01 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: Not me - I'm not going to flame your comments. We bought a front loader a few years ago, and if I had to do it again, I'd have a top loader there now. Front loaders require HE detergents or the tub bearings get eaten alive, they really do not clean as well as top loaders. But - it's down there in the laundry room now, and it'll stay there until the time comes when it's going to cost me money. Ditto ... last time we bought, about nine years ago, I let LOML make that decision since she is the one who is doing the washing and she went for the front loader. Big mistake. Next time, and it shouldn't be long, it will a top loader, or it's back to a wash tub and wringer for her. We've had a Kenmore #43142 front loader for 7 1/2 years now. It doesn't seem to be very highly rated, but we are totally satisfied with it. Having it on some kind of stand would be nice, though. Of course, it's just the 2 of us, most of the time, although when the family from Somerville, MA visits, there are 4 more (happy!!!) ... |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 3, 7:55*pm, "m II" wrote:
"RimaNeas" *wrote in ... I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. *Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. *I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? *I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. *I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... *Any info/experience would be appreciated. Cheers, Shawn ----------------------- Save your money and time, each wash. Get an old fashioned top load and have some actual storage cabinets above it on the wall. With a top-load washer your clothes will actually get clean in less than four hours of waiting without detergent residue to irritate your skin. If you want to save water get a suds saver machine. The fad is fading, from poor user experience, just as it did back in the 50s and 60sm before, due too many problems that haven`t been fixed yet. It`s all hype no matter what the sales con-artists are telling the wallets. I have experienced a few very expensive machines. Flame away mike Not flaming but we have had front-loaders for about a year now and love them. We have \had them long enough to be sure our water and gas consumption are down. Wash quality is great. Granted, a year isn't a valid test of durability. But our daughter's family of seven, who has been using the Sears front loaders for six years without problem is. Addressing the OP - We considered building the base for ours before we started serious shopping. I was concerned about the wear and tear of spinning. As it turned out, we made a sale deal that was cheap enough it wasn't worth the time or money to build it. RonB |
#17
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On 7/4/2011 9:04 AM, Han wrote:
We've had a Kenmore #43142 front loader for 7 1/2 years now. It doesn't seem to be very highly rated, but we are totally satisfied with it. Having it on some kind of stand would be nice, though. Of course, it's just the 2 of us, most of the time, although when the family from Somerville, MA visits, there are 4 more (happy!!!) ... Youngest daughter, now again at home, came back from five years of college in 2010 and I swear she's still washing stuff from her freshman year. I keep hoping she'll wear the front loader out. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#18
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 4, 10:48*am, RonB wrote:
Not flaming but we have had front-loaders for about a year now and love them. *We have \had them long enough to be sure our water and gas consumption are down. *Wash quality is great. *Granted, a year isn't a valid test of durability. *But our daughter's family of seven, who has been using the Sears front loaders for six years without problem is. Ditto on the front loader. Works fine, quiet enough, cleans well and four or five years in. The only thing I find irksome is the beeping when the load is done doesn't automatically shut off. Addressing the OP - We considered building the base for ours before we started serious shopping. *I was concerned about the wear and tear of spinning. *As it turned out, we made a sale deal that was cheap enough it wasn't worth the time or money to build it. Another ditto. I used to build everything for every thing, and now I pick my battles. A washer stand is not high up on the axis of evil list, so store bought (on sale) it is. R |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
Swingman wrote in
: On 7/4/2011 9:04 AM, Han wrote: We've had a Kenmore #43142 front loader for 7 1/2 years now. It doesn't seem to be very highly rated, but we are totally satisfied with it. Having it on some kind of stand would be nice, though. Of course, it's just the 2 of us, most of the time, although when the family from Somerville, MA visits, there are 4 more (happy!!!) ... Youngest daughter, now again at home, came back from five years of college in 2010 and I swear she's still washing stuff from her freshman year. I keep hoping she'll wear the front loader out. I much prefer the stable, fast washing, well centrifuging front loader over the waltzing matilda (no offense, Oz-dwellers) that was worse in all respects. Youngest is on his way back for a week of work up "North" while DIL and 2 sprouts (almost 5, and 6 months) stay with us. That'll mean more work for the Kenmore, but so what. |
#20
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Mon, 4 Jul 2011 08:56:53 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: wrote: I'd think the vibrations of the washer's spin cycle would be pretty tough on glue joints, not to mention the problems with exposure to water. Exposure to water???? Ain't supposed to be no exposure to water in your laundry room. I suppose there has to be *one* person who's never had a leak or spilled water in a laundry room. Today's front loaders don't quake, shake and creep like the the top loaders used to. Different dynamics. They still vibrate. |
#21
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Mon, 4 Jul 2011 09:01:12 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: m II wrote: Save your money and time, each wash. Get an old fashioned top load and have some actual storage cabinets above it on the wall. With a top-load washer your clothes will actually get clean in less than four hours of waiting without detergent residue to irritate your skin. If you want to save water get a suds saver machine. The fad is fading, from poor user experience, just as it did back in the 50s and 60sm before, due too many problems that haven`t been fixed yet. It`s all hype no matter what the sales con-artists are telling the wallets. I have experienced a few very expensive machines. Flame away Not me - I'm not going to flame your comments. We bought a front loader a few years ago, and if I had to do it again, I'd have a top loader there now. That's what I thought when we bought the Whirlpool Cabrio (agitatorless top-loader). After 3-4 years, its transmission is just about shot (sounds like jet-powered cement mixer). Evidently it's a *very* common failure and costs upwards of $700 to fix. It seems all washers are crap anymore. Front loaders require HE detergents or the tub bearings get eaten alive, they really do not clean as well as top loaders. Nothing wrong with HE detergents but the tub bearings are a problem with front-loaders, in any case. That's why I went with the Cabrio. Good plan; lousy implementation. But - it's down there in the laundry room now, and it'll stay there until the time comes when it's going to cost me money. Best idea of all. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
RimaNeas wrote:
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I can easily make the base to match my other cabinets. Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated. Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m... Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... then again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. Not much of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) |
#24
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 09:48:52 -0500, Swingman wrote:
I keep hoping she'll wear the front loader out. Have a look at "Broken Appliances" under consumer alert, (after the 10 second obligatory advert) http://toronto.ctv.ca/consumer/#TopVideoAn |
#25
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
RimaNeas wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. Oh too funny... I had not even thought about the weight of water!! Lets see, a 4 cf washer can hold .11 cubic meter of water which comes in at another 220Lb... and if the dryer is full of wet heavy clothes. Yep, that's heavy. Thanks for pointing that out. Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m... RimaNeas wrote: "HeyBub" wrote in message Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. Oh too funny... I had not even thought about the weight of water!! Lets see, a 4 cf washer can hold .11 cubic meter of water which comes in at another 220Lb... and if the dryer is full of wet heavy clothes. Yep, that's heavy. Thanks for pointing that out. Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds ---------------------- Only in the USA mike |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. Nah. First off, a FL is NEVER "full of water." No where near it. (One of the selling points is that they use water sparingly). The pull out drawer idea is a good one. When pulling clothes out of the washer, you may drop something - usually whites - and an open drawer to catch same . . . well, it's a good thing. I got a commercial base at Lowes for $25 (scratch and dent/closeout something like that) and stuck it under the old dryer (doesn't fit right, but) and it's work for a couple years now. But I will build my own elevated double base when I move the units to their new location. Try a Torsion Box approach to the top of the new base. I'll bet one made of crossed half-lapped two by twos sandwiched between half-inch plywood on top and quarter-inch in the bottom would be more than sufficient for the 60-inch wide drawer approach. Use two by twelves along the rear and on each end and Elmer's or similar wood glue to bind all the members if the torsion top. I've made similar torsion box "shelves" to hold large TV's using luan 5mm plywood and three quarter-inch white pine ribbs and it works marvelously - very strong, stable and light weight. |
#28
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On 7/5/11 6:35 AM, HeyBub wrote:
RimaNeas wrote: wrote in message Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. Oh too funny... I had not even thought about the weight of water!! Lets see, a 4 cf washer can hold .11 cubic meter of water which comes in at another 220Lb... and if the dryer is full of wet heavy clothes. Yep, that's heavy. Thanks for pointing that out. Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. How's that any different from having a couple people standing close to one another? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#29
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 5, 12:11 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/5/11 6:35 AM, HeyBub wrote: RimaNeas wrote: wrote in message Sounds like a plan. I have two suggestions: 1. Overbuild. A washer full of water is VERY heavy. Use screws, glue, and metal bracing. 2. Plan on a pull-out drawer in the base to store stuff. Oh too funny... I had not even thought about the weight of water!! Lets see, a 4 cf washer can hold .11 cubic meter of water which comes in at another 220Lb... and if the dryer is full of wet heavy clothes. Yep, that's heavy. Thanks for pointing that out. Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. How's that any different from having a couple people standing close to one another? ....while rhythmically bouncing. R |
#30
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 4, 6:10*pm, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message m... Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... *I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... then again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. *Not much of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) Ummm...the 3.7 CF is the overall volume of clothes, not the volume of water. Read the specs on your machine - it'll tell you how much water it uses per wash, then divide that in two (wash/rinse) and you'll know the rough amount of water inside at a given time in the cycle. R |
#31
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"RimaNeas" wrote in message ... "HeyBub" wrote in message m... Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... then again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. Not much of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) very confusing because at school were always taught that there were 10 pounds in a gallon of water at 62 degrees fahrenheit at 30" of mercury air pressure But, that was probably because we were taught in the imperial measurements where we get more mileage out of our gallon than the yanks |
#32
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
On Jul 6, 12:12*am, "George W Frost" wrote:
"RimaNeas" wrote in message "HeyBub" wrote in message Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... *I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... then again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. *Not much of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) very confusing because at school were always taught that there were 10 pounds in a gallon of water at 62 degrees fahrenheit at 30" of mercury air pressure But, that was probably because we were taught in the imperial measurements where we get more mileage out of our gallon than the yanks We wear ten gallon hats - a hundred pound hat would just be too heavy. R |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"RicodJour" wrote in message ... On Jul 6, 12:12 am, "George W Frost" wrote: "RimaNeas" wrote in message "HeyBub" wrote in message Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to a gallon = 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer = 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft = 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallon = 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... then again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. Not much of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) very confusing because at school were always taught that there were 10 pounds in a gallon of water at 62 degrees fahrenheit at 30" of mercury air pressure But, that was probably because we were taught in the imperial measurements where we get more mileage out of our gallon than the yanks We wear ten gallon hats - a hundred pound hat would just be too heavy. R ****************** Shirley you jest sir,! I have heard that a lot of Yankees are big headed enough for a 100 pound hat |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
"George W Frost" wrote in message ond.com... Shirley you jest sir,! I have heard that a lot of Yankees are big headed enough for a 100 pound hat =================== "Yankee"??? Isn't that when you can't wait for a "nooner" and you are alone? -- Eric |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
RicodJour writes:
On Jul 4, 6:10=A0pm, "RimaNeas" wrote: "HeyBub" wrote in message m... Remember the ditty: "A pint's a pound the world around." Eight pints to= a gallon =3D 8 pounds. Or, 4cf washer =3D 4 x 7.5 gallons/cu ft =3D 30 gallons x 8pounds/gallo= n =3D 240 pounds Don't forget the basket of dirty clothes sitting on TOP of the washer. Absolutely... =A0I just took 10% of 1 metric ton instead of the 11%.... t= hen again the washer can only take 3.7 cuft so it all works out. =A0Not much = of a defense actually, since I had not even thought of the water weight originally :-) Ummm...the 3.7 CF is the overall volume of clothes, not the volume of water. Read the specs on your machine - it'll tell you how much water it uses per wash, then divide that in two (wash/rinse) and you'll know the rough amount of water inside at a given time in the cycle. Yes, my bosch front-loader doesn't have more than three gallons of water present at any one time. All the water is held by the clothing, very little is present in the drum. Certainly well below the level of the door. These aren't the old front-loaders where the water level was at the top of the window on the door. You won't see the water level at all. scott |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Base cabinet for front-load washer?
Eric wrote:
"George W Frost" wrote in message ond.com... Shirley you jest sir,! I have heard that a lot of Yankees are big headed enough for a 100 pound hat =================== "Yankee"??? Isn't that when you can't wait for a "nooner" and you are alone? Could be. In this case, however, I'm sure "yankee" is the second and third syllable of the word whose use decorum discourages. |
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