I've been restoring a few old Stanley planes for use. I've been
fitting out most of them with Hock blades and Clifton chip breakers.
Most have come out as excellent users.

I have a Sweetheart vintage No. 3 that I've brought to
near-perfection. Except for ONE detail:

When I use the Hock iron and the Clifton chip breaker, I can't adjust
the blade to zero cut; it still protrudes 1/16" or so from the sole.

AN obvious solution is to grind the Hock blade back enough, but I
don't have the equipment.

Any alternatives?

Thanks a heap.

-Zz

On Dec 21, 8:25*pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
I've been restoring a few old Stanley planes for use. *I've been
fitting out most of them with Hock blades and Clifton chip breakers.
Most have come out as excellent users.

I have a Sweetheart vintage No. 3 that I've brought to
near-perfection. Except for ONE detail:

When I use the Hock iron and the Clifton chip breaker, I can't adjust
the blade to zero cut; it still protrudes 1/16" *or so from the sole.

AN obvious solution is to grind the Hock blade back enough, but I
don't have the equipment.

Any alternatives?

Thanks a heap.

-Zz

60 grit alox paper. Eclipse guide. Lots of elbow grease.

"Zz Yzx" wrote

I've been restoring a few old Stanley planes for use. I've been
fitting out most of them with Hock blades and Clifton chip breakers.
Most have come out as excellent users.

I have a Sweetheart vintage No. 3 that I've brought to
near-perfection. Except for ONE detail:

When I use the Hock iron and the Clifton chip breaker, I can't adjust
the blade to zero cut; it still protrudes 1/16" or so from the sole.

AN obvious solution is to grind the Hock blade back enough, but I
don't have the equipment.

Any alternatives?

Yes, this is a well-known problem when using blades thicker than the
Stanley/Record standard. You need either to extend the reach of the yoke -
by brazing or silver soldering an extension or soldering tabs to the cap
iron above and below the yoke aperture. These need to fit inside the slot in
the blade.

Both are tricky jobs, but altering the blade will not solve the problem.

I think that somewhere in UKWorkshop forum's archive you might find pics
illustrating these jobs. I wrote a piece in the British Good Woodworking mag
in Autumn 2006, Issue 180.

Jeff

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

On Wed, 22 Dec 2010 08:53:11 -0000, "Jeff Gorman"
wrote:


"Zz Yzx" wrote

I've been restoring a few old Stanley planes for use. I've been
fitting out most of them with Hock blades and Clifton chip breakers.
Most have come out as excellent users.

I have a Sweetheart vintage No. 3 that I've brought to
near-perfection. Except for ONE detail:

When I use the Hock iron and the Clifton chip breaker, I can't adjust
the blade to zero cut; it still protrudes 1/16" or so from the sole.

AN obvious solution is to grind the Hock blade back enough, but I
don't have the equipment.

Any alternatives?

Yes, this is a well-known problem when using blades thicker than the
Stanley/Record standard. You need either to extend the reach of the yoke -
by brazing or silver soldering an extension or soldering tabs to the cap
iron above and below the yoke aperture. These need to fit inside the slot in
the blade.

Both are tricky jobs, but altering the blade will not solve the problem.

True, but 1/16" goes pretty quickly on a coarse, 2x6" diamond honing
plate, and you'll only have to do it once every other generation. Your
grandkids will need to replace the blade, but your kids won't.

--
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.

On Dec 22, 3:53*am, "Jeff Gorman" wrote:
"Zz Yzx" wrote

I've been restoring a few old Stanley planes for use. *I've been
fitting out most of them with Hock blades and Clifton chip breakers.
Most have come out as excellent users.

I have a Sweetheart vintage No. 3 that I've brought to
near-perfection. Except for ONE detail:

When I use the Hock iron and the Clifton chip breaker, I can't adjust
the blade to zero cut; it still protrudes 1/16" *or so from the sole.

AN obvious solution is to grind the Hock blade back enough, but I
don't have the equipment.

Any alternatives?

Yes, this is a well-known problem when using blades thicker than the
Stanley/Record standard. You need either to extend the reach of the yoke -
by brazing or silver soldering an extension or soldering tabs to the cap
iron above and below the yoke aperture. These need to fit inside the slot in
the blade.

Both are tricky jobs, but altering the blade will not solve the problem.

I think that somewhere in UKWorkshop forum's archive you might find pics
illustrating these jobs. I wrote a piece in the British Good Woodworking mag
in Autumn 2006, Issue 180.

There's nothing like a little British understatement - in the US we
have Fine Woodworking.

R