http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ...M-1+Tenonmaker
http://www.youtube.com/user/BridgeCi.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

On Sep 28, 11:46*pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

On 9/29/10 7:43 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Sep 28, 11:46 pm, Zz wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

I always thought a tight mortise a tenon, like dovetails, only needed
glue to keep them from slipping apart. The strength is in the joint.

When gluing up panels, is there room for glue? Not really.
You squeeze out what hasn't soaked into the wood.

I think the same can be said for M&T joints. You wipe on only enough
glue to soak in. I've seen many a study that breaks the myth of the
glue-staved joint.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Sep 28, 11:46 pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

As long as you apply glue to the entire contact area, even if some gets
wiped off during insertion, it will be plenty of glue.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:43:33 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

On Sep 28, 11:46*pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

I believe the fit is adjustable, FWIW.

"Jim Weisgram" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:43:33 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

On Sep 28, 11:46 pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

I believe the fit is adjustable, FWIW.

Not directing this directly at you Jim.

I don't believe that making the joint looser is going to increase the
strength of the joint. When you clamp two edges of wood together to form a
wider board do you leave a gap or not tighten the clamp to insure that no
glue gets squeezed out? The best glued joint is one that has glue on the
entire surface before the union. After that the best glued joint is the one
with the thinnest glue line/layer of glue.

To some it seems to be a common thought that it is OK to remove excess glue
by squeezing the bejesus out of a panel glue up, which it is. But for some
reason there is the belief of excess glue being removed from a joint by the
sliding and scraping motion during assembly will starve the joint.

The common misconception of Glue Starvation is that in which excess glue is
removed form mating surfaces during assembly. Glue Starvation happens when
glue is not applied to the entire mating surface before the mating of the
surfaces. Once there is a solid layer of glue on a mating surface it is
either the correct amount or too much, never not enough. If a complete thin
layer of glue dries out before assembly, that is another problem. Mating
surfaces that do not fit tightly is another problem also.

In article , lcb11211
@swbell.dotnet says...

"Jim Weisgram" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:43:33 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
wrote:

On Sep 28, 11:46 pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Produ.../0/Cs9Ychd--qk

Similar tool for tenons.

-Zz

Doesn't seem to leave room for glue.

I believe the fit is adjustable, FWIW.

Not directing this directly at you Jim.

I don't believe that making the joint looser is going to increase the
strength of the joint. When you clamp two edges of wood together to form a
wider board do you leave a gap or not tighten the clamp to insure that no
glue gets squeezed out? The best glued joint is one that has glue on the
entire surface before the union. After that the best glued joint is the one
with the thinnest glue line/layer of glue.

Read the specs on your glue--there's usually a specification for glue-
line thickness. To the extent that you're able, go with the
specification unless you have test results that show that you should do
otherwise.

To some it seems to be a common thought that it is OK to remove excess glue
by squeezing the bejesus out of a panel glue up, which it is. But for some
reason there is the belief of excess glue being removed from a joint by the
sliding and scraping motion during assembly will starve the joint.

In the one case it's being forced into the grain, in the other it's
being scraped off.

The common misconception of Glue Starvation is that in which excess glue is
removed form mating surfaces during assembly. Glue Starvation happens when
glue is not applied to the entire mating surface before the mating of the
surfaces. Once there is a solid layer of glue on a mating surface it is
either the correct amount or too much, never not enough. If a complete thin
layer of glue dries out before assembly, that is another problem. Mating
surfaces that do not fit tightly is another problem also.

On 10/4/10 9:24 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
To some it seems to be a common thought that it is OK to remove excess glue
by squeezing the bejesus out of a panel glue up, which it is. But for some
reason there is the belief of excess glue being removed from a joint by the
sliding and scraping motion during assembly will starve the joint.

In the one case it's being forced into the grain, in the other it's
being scraped off.


Not correct. Leon is correct. You cannot force (carpenters) glue into
the grain of wood. It goes in as far as it goes and that's it.

I remember reading and being amazed at how little glue is actually
needed to bond wood together. I also remember in the same article that
it mentioned if *any* glue was soaked into the grain, it was *enough*
glue. Meaning, if you put a thin layer of glue on and it gets wiped off
the surface, you're ok.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply