a) I know you can use glue sizing (1 part glue, 10 parts water) as a
pre-finish seal on end grain. Can this be done on outside as well,
specifically cedar end grain?

b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily
when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know
is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of
course.

Chris

"cc" wrote in message
...
a) I know you can use glue sizing (1 part glue, 10 parts water) as a
pre-finish seal on end grain. Can this be done on outside as well,
specifically cedar end grain?

b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily
when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know
is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of
course.

Chris

a) Yes but it will not be waterproof. You be better off using epoxy.

b) Why is leaving it pressurized not good for the tank or fittings?
I've always left mine pressurized and still have no problems after
25+ years. The rubber hoses are no worse for the constant pressure
either.
Art

On 06/23/2010 02:53 PM, cc wrote:
b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily
when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know
is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of
course.

How do you "know" this? I have a 60 gallon Sanborn that's 20 years old and it NEVER gets
depressurized, and it's never caused me a single problem.

--
What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually
understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop?
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 6/23/2010 3:53 PM, cc wrote:
a) I know you can use glue sizing (1 part glue, 10 parts water) as a
pre-finish seal on end grain. Can this be done on outside as well,
specifically cedar end grain?

Make sure it's a waterproof glue.

b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily
when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know
is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of
course.

If you're concerned about condensation buildup rusing out the tank, take
a look at
http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html

"cc" wrote in message
...
a) I know you can use glue sizing (1 part glue, 10 parts water) as a
pre-finish seal on end grain. Can this be done on outside as well,
specifically cedar end grain?

b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily
when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know
is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of
course.

Chris

b. Leaving pressure on the tank is OK, leaving condensation in the tank is
not. I mounted a galvanized pipe and elboe and ball valve on mine and I
keep the ball valve cracked open just enough to keep the water out. The
compressor runs 1~2 times a day when not in use.

If you're concerned about condensation buildup rusing out the tank, take
a look at
http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html


Yeah, I installed this on my 25 gallon cheapie compressor. It worked
for about a week, then one day the outlet got stuck, maybe something
stuck in it. I was futzing with it when it just crumbled. You get what
you pay for at HF.

I just wired up the tank with a 4' hose coming from the bottom with a
standard air gun on the end and I just air it it out whenever I am
over on that area of the shop. In the summer here in california I
never see any mist but get a good spray during cold weather.

On 06/23/2010 11:47 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
If you're concerned about condensation buildup rusing out the tank, take
a look at
http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html


Yeah, I installed this on my 25 gallon cheapie compressor. It worked
for about a week, then one day the outlet got stuck, maybe something
stuck in it. I was futzing with it when it just crumbled. You get what
you pay for at HF.

You should put your review of their turd on their site.

I just wired up the tank with a 4' hose coming from the bottom with a
standard air gun on the end and I just air it it out whenever I am
over on that area of the shop. In the summer here in california I
never see any mist but get a good spray during cold weather.

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes the compressor to
cycle periodically? If so, how often?

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
On 06/23/2010 11:47 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I just wired up the tank with a 4' hose coming from the bottom with a
standard air gun on the end and I just air it it out whenever I am
over on that area of the shop. In the summer here in california I
never see any mist but get a good spray during cold weather.

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes
the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?



This is a cool idea but remember that the pressure if "FULL", keep some kind
of valve on it if you don't want a lot of air and water to come out at one
time.

On 6/24/2010 7:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes
the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?

Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of air
hose on my small vertical, where it is much more accessible.

The air hose holds quite a bit of water that would otherwise be in the
tank, and, unlike the tank, is rustproof ... and gravity does the work.

It is a simple matter to open the cock slightly every other day or so
and let the water in the hose squirt out, and draining the tank this way
doesn't even cause the compressor to cycle on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
....
Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of air
hose...

That's actually kinda' kewt...

--

I keep my tank pressurized all the time, also. I use it for the
woodshop and upholstery shop and drain the tank at at least twice a
week.

That 3' hose, off the drain cock, sounds like a great idea!!!

Addendum: Don't forget to oil your air tools often. This is what I
fail to do often enough... I just don't think to do it, until a tool
starts jamming.

Sonny

On 6/24/2010 2:47 PM, Sonny wrote:
I keep my tank pressurized all the time, also. I use it for the
woodshop and upholstery shop and drain the tank at at least twice a
week.

That 3' hose, off the drain cock, sounds like a great idea!!!

I've been doing it for "years" (the "year", singular, was a typo) and
its always worked like a charm, besides making a good deal of sense.

Addendum: Don't forget to oil your air tools often. This is what I
fail to do often enough... I just don't think to do it, until a tool
starts jamming.

I've got some nailers that need oil, and some that don't ... it's why I
keep the factory stickers on all of 'em. Hell if you don't remember that
you bought a Festool tool, no telling what else you don't remember.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

That's a good idea. *Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes the compressor to
cycle periodically? *If so, how often?


I have no leakage as long as I don't leave tools on the lines.

I have the short line from the bottom and also a tee at the regular
outlet. I run one hose up through the rafters to the fron of my garage
shop to use on my pocket holer, filling tires and working up front.
The other line runs overhead and drops between my cutoff and work
table. If I leave a nail gun on the line it will bleed but if I drop
it of, the system stays tight forever.

I do turn it off however. I had a blow out once with a bad attach to a
hose and found the compressor running when I cam home, so just a habit
but it is always full tanked when I flip her on.

Addendum: Don't forget to oil your air tools often. *This is what I
fail to do often enough... *I just don't think to do it, until a tool
starts jamming.

Sonny

I don't have an oiler so I do oil manually whenever I pickup the tool.
My one Bostitch brad nail that dosen't want oil has NO OIL written on
it with a felt pin.

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
If you're concerned about condensation buildup rusing out the tank, take
a look at
http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html


Yeah, I installed this on my 25 gallon cheapie compressor. It worked
for about a week, then one day the outlet got stuck, maybe something
stuck in it. I was futzing with it when it just crumbled. You get what
you pay for at HF.

I just wired up the tank with a 4' hose coming from the bottom with a
standard air gun on the end and I just air it it out whenever I am
over on that area of the shop. In the summer here in california I
never see any mist but get a good spray during cold weather.

Now there is an idea waiting to happen... I almost never drain my
compressor, and have had it for around 30 years. If I'd have thought of
this idea, I may have hooked up an air gun to the thing... Every time
this subject comes up, I eagerly wait for my tank to explode in a pile
of rust... then I forget about it for another year or 5:-)

You should send this one in for a tip of the day magazine thing-ee, and
maybe get a free tool of some sort. This is one of those smack your
head ideas...

I have several air guns I never use for anything, one has just a button
you press... I could hook that directly with no hose and just tap the
button with my foot... hmmmm...

--
Jack
Those who trade liberty for security have neither.
John Adams
http://jbstein.com

Swingman wrote:
On 6/24/2010 7:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes
the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?

Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of air
hose on my small vertical, where it is much more accessible.

The air hose holds quite a bit of water that would otherwise be in the
tank, and, unlike the tank, is rustproof ... and gravity does the work.

It is a simple matter to open the cock slightly every other day or so
and let the water in the hose squirt out, and draining the tank this way
doesn't even cause the compressor to cycle on.

I like the idea of having an air gun on the hose so you just squeeze for
a sec as you walk by.

I know I've discussed this here before, but, getting old, I don't
remember how it ended up. Your point on draining the water out of the
tank, into a rustproof hose reminded me of something I've thought of,
considering I never, or almost never bother to drain my tank.

I wonder if having the bottom of a metal tank void of water at any
depth, just being damp, or just wet all the time is all that good? My
thought is metal rusts faster being wet with lots of oxygen getting to
it vs being submerged, underwater with little oxygen getting at it. I
know everyone everywhere says drain your tank routinely, but after 30
years of mostly ignoring this advice, I wonder why it's made no
discernible difference to my tank?

--
Jack
Got Change: Global Warming ====== Global Fraud!
http://jbstein.com

On 6/26/2010 10:13 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 6/24/2010 7:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes
the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?

Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of
air hose on my small vertical, where it is much more accessible.

The air hose holds quite a bit of water that would otherwise be in the
tank, and, unlike the tank, is rustproof ... and gravity does the work.

It is a simple matter to open the cock slightly every other day or so
and let the water in the hose squirt out, and draining the tank this
way doesn't even cause the compressor to cycle on.

I like the idea of having an air gun on the hose so you just squeeze for
a sec as you walk by.

I know I've discussed this here before, but, getting old, I don't
remember how it ended up. Your point on draining the water out of the
tank, into a rustproof hose reminded me of something I've thought of,
considering I never, or almost never bother to drain my tank.

I wonder if having the bottom of a metal tank void of water at any
depth, just being damp, or just wet all the time is all that good? My
thought is metal rusts faster being wet with lots of oxygen getting to
it vs being submerged, underwater with little oxygen getting at it. I
know everyone everywhere says drain your tank routinely, but after 30
years of mostly ignoring this advice, I wonder why it's made no
discernible difference to my tank?

Personally, I'm less concerned with standing water rusting out the bottom of my
tank than I am with it accumulating to the point where it makes it past my
water filter and into the main lines, possibly ruining the spray job I'm right
in the middle of. This *rarely* (if ever) happens to me here in Austin (where
the humidity isn't usually very high), and I have a very good filter (an old
Motor Guard M-30, like this one: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/jlmm30.html),
but I think Sonoma's idea is a good one nonetheless, and I would be *much* more
inclined to keep the tank drained if I didn't have to climb underneath it with
a little bucket to catch the water, tearing up my fingers on that stubborn
cutoff valve in the process...

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
On 6/26/2010 10:13 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 6/24/2010 7:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that
causes
the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?

Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of
air hose on my small vertical, where it is much more accessible.

The air hose holds quite a bit of water that would otherwise be in the
tank, and, unlike the tank, is rustproof ... and gravity does the work.

It is a simple matter to open the cock slightly every other day or so
and let the water in the hose squirt out, and draining the tank this
way doesn't even cause the compressor to cycle on.

I like the idea of having an air gun on the hose so you just squeeze for
a sec as you walk by.

I know I've discussed this here before, but, getting old, I don't
remember how it ended up. Your point on draining the water out of the
tank, into a rustproof hose reminded me of something I've thought of,
considering I never, or almost never bother to drain my tank.

I wonder if having the bottom of a metal tank void of water at any
depth, just being damp, or just wet all the time is all that good? My
thought is metal rusts faster being wet with lots of oxygen getting to
it vs being submerged, underwater with little oxygen getting at it. I
know everyone everywhere says drain your tank routinely, but after 30
years of mostly ignoring this advice, I wonder why it's made no
discernible difference to my tank?

Personally, I'm less concerned with standing water rusting out the
bottom of my tank than I am with it accumulating to the point where it
makes it past my water filter and into the main lines, possibly ruining
the spray job I'm right in the middle of. This *rarely* (if ever)
happens to me here in Austin (where the humidity isn't usually very
high), and I have a very good filter (an old Motor Guard M-30, like
this one: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/jlmm30.html),

It's never happened to me and I live in Pgh where humidity is pretty
high, although not rain forest high. I have a cheap filter
(http://jbstein.com/Flick/AirFilter.jpg) that supposedly filters oil and
water, and I've never had to drain my filter, and I've painted tons of
stuff, including cars over the years and never had a problem with water
or oil. I think the water in the bottom of tank never gets in the air
flow, else I'd have noticed long, long ago.

but I think Sonoma's
idea is a good one nonetheless, and I would be *much* more inclined to
keep the tank drained if I didn't have to climb underneath it with a
little bucket to catch the water, tearing up my fingers on that stubborn
cutoff valve in the process...

Yeah, a great idea. I long ago put a copper extension on the drain,
with a petcock that is used so infrequently I need pliers to get it to
turn. Worse, I have to move a ton of junk piled in front of it to even
see it.

I'm still wondering if a damp tank rusts faster than one submerged in water.

--
Jack
Got Change: General Motors ===== Government Motors!
http://jbstein.com

Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.

Like the old Coke with anail init. The nail always rusted off above the
liquid and was siney clean below the Coke.

Bottom's up!


"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Yeah, a great idea. I long ago put a copper extension on the drain,
with a petcock that is used so infrequently I need pliers to get it to
turn. Worse, I have to move a ton of junk piled in front of it to even
see it.

I'm still wondering if a damp tank rusts faster than one submerged in water.

--
Jack
Got Change: General Motors ===== Government Motors!
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 27 Jun 2010 13:10:13 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust.

....and water is Hydrogen and...?

Good dry water doesn't rust anything.

You must drink that crappy "instant water" stuff.

Like the old Coke with anail init. The nail always rusted off above the
^^^^^
You misspelled "anal".

liquid and was siney clean below the Coke.

Bottom's up!

Yep, misspelled.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.


You think? Seems sunk ships rust... I have always known water to have
oxygen in it.

On 6/28/10 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.


You think? Seems sunk ships rust... I have always known water to have
oxygen in it.

My water tank should last forever, it is always full.
:-)

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Leon wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.

You think? Seems sunk ships rust... I have always known water to have
oxygen in it.

I don't live near the ocean, but on the rivers where I live, steel coal
barges don't rust as much under water than along the water line where
lots of oxygen is present.

--
Jack
When seconds count, the cops are only minutes away
http://jbstein.com

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 27 Jun 2010 13:10:13 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust.

...and water is Hydrogen and...?

Ever try breathing under water? Certainly water contains oxygen, the
question I have is does metal rust faster under water with small amounts
of oxygen or under damp conditions, with lots of oxygen available?

I have no clue what the inside of my tank looks like. If it ever fails,
maybe tomorrow, maybe in another 30 years, perhaps I'll cut the sucker
in half and see where it rusted.

--
Jack
Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.
http://jbstein.com

FrozenNorth wrote:
On 6/28/10 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
..
Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.

You think? Seems sunk ships rust... I have always known water to have
oxygen in it.

My water tank should last forever, it is always full.
:-)

The water heater in the house I grew up in lasted close to 100 years.
It was an indirect heating system where the burner and the coils were
separate from the storage tank. The tank did nothing but store hot
water. I'd bet that tank was not glass lined like a modern hot water
heater, but I really don't know. I haven't gotten more than 10 years out
of a water heater, but like my compressor, I just use it, no maintenance
whatsoever.

--
Jack
The Problem with Socialism is you eventually run out of Other Peoples Money!
http://jbstein.com

Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic chemistry
level reaction.


Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.
This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.


"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
and water is Hydrogen and...?

Ever try breathing under water? Certainly water contains oxygen, the
question I have is does metal rust faster under water with small amounts
of oxygen or under damp conditions, with lots of oxygen available?

I have no clue what the inside of my tank looks like. If it ever fails,
maybe tomorrow, maybe in another 30 years, perhaps I'll cut the sucker
in half and see where it rusted.

--
Jack
Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.
http://jbstein.com

Many do not know the difference between atomic and molecular chemistry.

Pure water contains no oxygen molecules.



Lil Miss T'isn't to follow.



"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
I don't live near the ocean, but on the rivers where I live, steel coal
barges don't rust as much under water than along the water line where
lots of oxygen is present.

--
Jack
When seconds count, the cops are only minutes away
http://jbstein.com

Just take a ticket at the desk for doctor to be right with you.

"Josepi"
wrote in message
...

Many do not know the difference between assholes and moles.

Pure **** contains no fibre molecules.



Like I isn't to follow.



"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
I don't live near the ocean, but on the rivers where I live, steel coal
barges don't rust as much under water than along the water line where
lots of oxygen is present.

--
Jack
When seconds count, the cops are only minutes away
http://jbstein.com

So sorry Jack I get really confused when the haze just
slips over my low brow. A lack of water you know.
Mybad!
I meant to say I had some water during my break and found
yes it has no oxygen but it has terrific amounts of salts
which complement my acid personality so well I just had to
leap to the computer to tell you!
Now now can I join your group Jack can can I huh please please!

"Josepi" wrote in message
...

Deleted my bad.


"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
I don't live near the ocean, but on the rivers where I live, steel coal
barges don't rust as much under water than along the water line where
lots of oxygen is present.

--
Jack
When seconds count, the cops are only minutes away
http://jbstein.com

oh do go on with the lame troll of poorly researched science.
Using google and handbooks to make your post is doing it
just like me. CopyCAT!

Better yet. Just tell me to STFU!
You can kiss my ass if you like.

dpb wrote in message
...

Josepi wrote:
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic chemistry
level reaction.

Oh, really??? What, then, pray tell is oxidation???

Rust is Fe203, primarily an oxidation product of Fe and O2.

Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.

Which is, in fact, the case w/ virtually all water in contact w/ air as
the solubility of O2 is reasonably high...

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/oxygen-solubility-water-d_841.html

Where does the air entrained in hot water come from you think???

This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.
...

Mostly because they have controls to prevent the introduction of
additional air and maintenance practices to remove what is in them...

http://www.facilitiesnet.com/ms/articlePrint.asp?id=4684

Josepi wrote:
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic chemistry
level reaction.

Oh, really??? What, then, pray tell is oxidation???

Rust is Fe203, primarily an oxidation product of Fe and O2.

Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.

Which is, in fact, the case w/ virtually all water in contact w/ air as
the solubility of O2 is reasonably high...

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/oxygen-solubility-water-d_841.html

Where does the air entrained in hot water come from you think???

This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.
....

Mostly because they have controls to prevent the introduction of
additional air and maintenance practices to remove what is in them...

http://www.facilitiesnet.com/ms/articlePrint.asp?id=4684

--

"Leon" wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.


Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.
This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.


Which is not a scretch. Humid air going through the compression process
will condense and form water as it cools and will have oxygen molecules in
it. Just the thing needed to rust a tank.

Superheated Oxygen! Now there is a stretch!!
Get some smarts rube. You want to appear intelligent
do some work on your posting.
I am the boss of posting around here.
You will obey!

John

Oxidation is when a substance combines with oxygen. This can be easily found
with a search engine.



"dpb" wrote in message
...
Oh, really??? What, then, pray tell is oxidation???

ranting agreement snipped


Josepi wrote:
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.
Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.
This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.

Josepi wrote:
Oxidation is when a substance combines with oxygen. ...

And indeed,

4 Fe + 3 02 -- 2 Fe2O3

You forgot the salt.

Josepi wrote:
Oxidation is when a substance combines with oxygen. ...

And indeed,

4 Fe + 3 02 -- 2 Fe2O3

--

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.


Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.
This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.


Which is not a scretch. Humid air going through the compression process
will condense and form water as it cools and will have oxygen molecules in
it. Just the thing needed to rust a tank.

Sorry dpb

Be aware that you have been trolled by the cyber bully gang that frequents
here.

M II / hopper / Mike / and a host of others see banner post for a list
further down in the group

Best of luck


"Josepi" wrote in message
...
oh do go on with the lame troll of poorly researched science.
Using google and handbooks to make your post is doing it
just like me. CopyCAT!

Better yet. Just tell me to STFU!
You can kiss my ass if you like.

dpb wrote in message
...

Josepi wrote:
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.

Oh, really??? What, then, pray tell is oxidation???

Rust is Fe203, primarily an oxidation product of Fe and O2.

Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.

Which is, in fact, the case w/ virtually all water in contact w/ air as
the solubility of O2 is reasonably high...

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/oxygen-solubility-water-d_841.html

Where does the air entrained in hot water come from you think???

This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.
...

Mostly because they have controls to prevent the introduction of
additional air and maintenance practices to remove what is in them...

http://www.facilitiesnet.com/ms/articlePrint.asp?id=4684

Sorry djb I forgot to hand you the Message Identity for
the post I made giving the list.
here it is:
Message-ID:
Some history I have made there?
LOL
LOL
LOL
LOL


"Josepi" wrote in message
...

horse **** deleted

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
oh do go on with the lame troll of poorly researched science.
Using google and handbooks to make your post is doing it
just like me. CopyCAT!

Better yet. Just tell me to STFU!
You can kiss my ass if you like.

dpb wrote in message
...

Josepi wrote:
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.

Oh, really??? What, then, pray tell is oxidation???

Rust is Fe203, primarily an oxidation product of Fe and O2.

Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.

Which is, in fact, the case w/ virtually all water in contact w/ air as
the solubility of O2 is reasonably high...

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/oxygen-solubility-water-d_841.html

Where does the air entrained in hot water come from you think???

This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.
..

Mostly because they have controls to prevent the introduction of
additional air and maintenance practices to remove what is in them...

http://www.facilitiesnet.com/ms/articlePrint.asp?id=4684

Not my post.
-------------

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Josepi wrote:
Oxidation is when a substance combines with oxygen. ...

And indeed,

4 Fe + 3 02 -- 2 Fe2O3

You forgot the salt.

Not mine

Troll clone
----------------

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Water is composed hydrogen and oxygen atoms. Rust is not an atomic
chemistry
level reaction.


Water does **NOT** contain oxygen molecules unless some oxygen molecules
have been disolved in it.
This is why closed loop heating systems, made almost completely out of
iron
and steel pipe and fittings do not rust themselves out.


Which is not a scretch. Humid air going through the compression process
will condense and form water as it cools and will have oxygen molecules in
it. Just the thing needed to rust a tank.

Superheated Oxygen! Now there is a stretch!!
Get some smarts rube. You want to appear intelligent
do some work on your posting.
I am the boss of posting around here.
You will obey!

John