After a fair number of positive reviews in this group I decided to pick up this
spray gun a few months ago from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ay-gun-86.html

I used it once (probably to spray some clear lacquer; don't remember), cleaned
it (I've been using and cleaning out spray guns for over 30 years, so I'm no
dummy at this), and put it away. Pulled it back out this morning (that's what
she said) and tried to spray some Zinsser white shellac primer, and... nothing.
Lots of air flow, but no white fluid is coming out of the nozzle (that's what
she sai... er, never mind). Thinking there must be a clog or obstruction
somewhere, I started disassembling things and checking for problems, but found
nothing. Before I start talking specifics, those who pretend to care about my
piddly little problem might want to refer to the parts listing on page 12 of
the product manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

Ok, so there are no obstructions anywhe air is flowing from all the ports
in both the air cap and fluid nozzle; I've adjusted the fan adjusting screw
just far enough out so that the trigger has full travel (but no more) which
allows the needle to open according to the trigger pressure, and it retracts to
the fully closed position when the trigger is released. The volume adjusting
screw (which controls the amount of air flow to the "wings" of the air cap,
which in turn controls the amount of "fan-out" to the spray pattern) is working
properly, and you can feel the air flow from the air cap change as adjustments
are made; I was running it wide open, but its position makes no difference.

No matter how I adjust any of those contraptions, no fluid is being pulled from
the cup. And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is open,
and the shellac is sufficiently thinned for spraying. In fact, the cup can be
filled with straight denatured alcohol and it makes no difference; no siphoning
action is occurring. I can even remove the cup and stick the siphon tube into
a separate container of denatured alcohol, and still nothing. HOWEVER, if I
remove the gun from the cup, turn it upside down and fill the siphon tube with
fluid, VIOLA - It sprays! If I disconnect the gun from the air supply, fill
the siphon tube with thinner (still upside down), and actuate the trigger, a
steady stream of thinner runs out the nozzle and is depleted, just as I would
expect. EVERYTHING is working as I'd expect, except no siphon action is
occurring; I'm befuddled.

Any ideas?

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
After a fair number of positive reviews in this group I decided to
pick up this spray gun a few months ago from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ay-gun-86.html


Snip long excellent description...

No matter how I adjust any of those contraptions, no fluid is being
pulled from the cup. And yes, the pressure release air hole in the
top of the cup is open, and the shellac is sufficiently thinned for
spraying. In fact, the cup can be filled with straight denatured
alcohol and it makes no difference; no siphoning action is occurring.
I can even remove the cup and stick the siphon tube into a separate
container of denatured alcohol, and still nothing. HOWEVER, if I
remove the gun from the cup, turn it upside down and fill the siphon
tube with fluid, VIOLA - It sprays! If I disconnect the gun from the
air supply, fill the siphon tube with thinner (still upside down),
and actuate the trigger, a steady stream of thinner runs out the
nozzle and is depleted, just as I would expect. EVERYTHING is
working as I'd expect, except no siphon action is occurring; I'm
befuddled.
Any ideas?

Well - we both know what's wrong, now all we have to do is figure out what's
wrong. It's not developing suction. How about the cup seal? Hardened
maybe? Or dirty so it' prevents a good fit? There's almost got to be an
obstruction in the pickup tube I'd bet. Have you tried your brush kit
through it - even though you have good reason to believe it's not necessary?
It doesn't take much as you know, to cause problems with pickup. When
you're holding it upside down and pouring thinner in it you've completely
changed the dynamics of what happens under suction. I'd run a brush through
good. Check behind the fluid tip too - for small particulates. It only
takes a little. My first go though would be at the cup seal and at the
pickup tube with a brush.

Let us know how you make out...

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 06 Jun 2010 17:06:45 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote the following:

After a fair number of positive reviews in this group I decided to pick up this
spray gun a few months ago from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ay-gun-86.html

I used it once (probably to spray some clear lacquer; don't remember), cleaned
it (I've been using and cleaning out spray guns for over 30 years, so I'm no
dummy at this), and put it away. Pulled it back out this morning (that's what
she said) and tried to spray some Zinsser white shellac primer, and... nothing.
Lots of air flow, but no white fluid is coming out of the nozzle (that's what
she sai... er, never mind). Thinking there must be a clog or obstruction
somewhere, I started disassembling things and checking for problems, but found
nothing. Before I start talking specifics, those who pretend to care about my
piddly little problem might want to refer to the parts listing on page 12 of
the product manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

Ok, so there are no obstructions anywhe air is flowing from all the ports
in both the air cap and fluid nozzle; I've adjusted the fan adjusting screw
just far enough out so that the trigger has full travel (but no more) which
allows the needle to open according to the trigger pressure, and it retracts to
the fully closed position when the trigger is released. The volume adjusting
screw (which controls the amount of air flow to the "wings" of the air cap,
which in turn controls the amount of "fan-out" to the spray pattern) is working
properly, and you can feel the air flow from the air cap change as adjustments
are made; I was running it wide open, but its position makes no difference.

No matter how I adjust any of those contraptions, no fluid is being pulled from
the cup. And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is open,
and the shellac is sufficiently thinned for spraying. In fact, the cup can be
filled with straight denatured alcohol and it makes no difference; no siphoning
action is occurring. I can even remove the cup and stick the siphon tube into
a separate container of denatured alcohol, and still nothing. HOWEVER, if I
remove the gun from the cup, turn it upside down and fill the siphon tube with
fluid, VIOLA - It sprays! If I disconnect the gun from the air supply, fill
the siphon tube with thinner (still upside down), and actuate the trigger, a
steady stream of thinner runs out the nozzle and is depleted, just as I would
expect. EVERYTHING is working as I'd expect, except no siphon action is
occurring; I'm befuddled.

Any ideas?

2 possibles:

1) Verify that the rear needle o-ring (#16) is in there.

2) Verify that the o-ring, (#9) and packing (#10)on the volume nozzle
are in there. It can't suck fluid up the siphon tube if it can't pull
a vacuum with the venturi action.

Broken/missing parts 9, 10, and 16 are the most probable causes,
Steve. Never leave 'em in carb cleaner overnight. DAMHIKT

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor
the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

Larry Jaques wrote:


Broken/missing parts 9, 10, and 16 are the most probable causes,
Steve. Never leave 'em in carb cleaner overnight. DAMHIKT

Oh man - no kidding!


--

-Mike-

On 6/6/2010 7:16 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
2 possibles:

1) Verify that the rear needle o-ring (#16) is in there.

That o-ring is there; I know because I removed the needle several times and I
could feel it providing that nice snug resistance. I could also see it sitting
in there when I removed the #17 nut.

2) Verify that the o-ring, (#9) and packing (#10)on the volume nozzle
are in there. It can't suck fluid up the siphon tube if it can't pull
a vacuum with the venturi action.

Thanks Larry; I will check for those.

--
A. Because it makes the discussion harder to read.
Q. Why should I not top-post?
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:38:47 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote the following:

On 6/6/2010 7:16 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
2 possibles:

1) Verify that the rear needle o-ring (#16) is in there.

That o-ring is there; I know because I removed the needle several times and I
could feel it providing that nice snug resistance. I could also see it sitting
in there when I removed the #17 nut.

2) Verify that the o-ring, (#9) and packing (#10)on the volume nozzle
are in there. It can't suck fluid up the siphon tube if it can't pull
a vacuum with the venturi action.

Thanks Larry; I will check for those.

You do have a rubber-tipped air blow gun, right? They make cleaning
small orifices much, much easier. Doublecheck your flow from each of
the fluid nozzle orifi (orifizzes? while you're at it.

I learned to triplecheck everything when I was doing tune-ups and
rebuilding carburetors for a living. And to this day, I can still
honestly say "HOLLEY SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCKS!"

--
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what
to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity.
-- George S. Patton

On 6/7/2010 7:47 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:38:47 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote the following:

On 6/6/2010 7:16 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
2 possibles:

1) Verify that the rear needle o-ring (#16) is in there.

That o-ring is there; I know because I removed the needle several times and I
could feel it providing that nice snug resistance. I could also see it sitting
in there when I removed the #17 nut.

2) Verify that the o-ring, (#9) and packing (#10)on the volume nozzle
are in there. It can't suck fluid up the siphon tube if it can't pull
a vacuum with the venturi action.

Thanks Larry; I will check for those.

You do have a rubber-tipped air blow gun, right? They make cleaning
small orifices much, much easier. Doublecheck your flow from each of
the fluid nozzle orifi (orifizzes? while you're at it.

I learned to triplecheck everything when I was doing tune-ups and
rebuilding carburetors for a living. And to this day, I can still
honestly say "HOLLEY SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCKS!"

Ok, I just spent the last two hours understanding ever little aspect of this
gun, and all I can conclude is to either: 1) take the damn thing back
(assuming I can find the receipt); or 2) throw the damn thing away. There is
nothing *wrong* with it, it simply won't pull a vacuum.

Referring once again to page 12 of the manual:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

There are only two air paths through this gun, and both exit through the air
cap with no connection whatsoever to the fluid path. The "main" path causes
air to flow out of the two tiny little air holes in the air cap on either side
of (and very close to) the central opening that the fluid passes through; the
second path (which can be closed off completely by the "volume adjusting
screw") passes through the larger air holes in the "wings" of the air cap.
Closing off this air path should simply cause a mostly useless, and poorly
atomized round pattern, but it should not affect the gun's ability to draw a
vacuum.

My conclusion is that drawing a vacuum is the job of the first air path;
because there is NO air path into the fluid path, there is no pressure of any
kind "forcing" or "coaxing" the fluid to come out. The very strong blast of
focused air coming out of the two tiny nozzles in close proximity to the fluid
opening is what should be drawing the fluid out, and this simply isn't
happening. There are no blockages (or leakages) anywhere; this gun is as clean
as a whistle and I've verified all air paths until I'm blue in the face.

One funny little experiment I ran was to disconnect the fluid cup and all its
fittings from the body of the gun, then I actuated the trigger and checked for
vacuum in the fluid path by putting my *tongue* over the fluid input port, and
I could detect no vacuum whatsoever.

Where's nailshooter Robert when you need him? I'm pretty much ready to toss
this gun and get one of the gravity feed models instead...

--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Mon, 07 Jun 2010 20:47:51 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote the following:

On 6/7/2010 7:47 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:38:47 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote the following:

On 6/6/2010 7:16 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
2 possibles:

1) Verify that the rear needle o-ring (#16) is in there.

That o-ring is there; I know because I removed the needle several times and I
could feel it providing that nice snug resistance. I could also see it sitting
in there when I removed the #17 nut.

2) Verify that the o-ring, (#9) and packing (#10)on the volume nozzle
are in there. It can't suck fluid up the siphon tube if it can't pull
a vacuum with the venturi action.

Thanks Larry; I will check for those.

You do have a rubber-tipped air blow gun, right? They make cleaning
small orifices much, much easier. Doublecheck your flow from each of
the fluid nozzle orifi (orifizzes? while you're at it.

I learned to triplecheck everything when I was doing tune-ups and
rebuilding carburetors for a living. And to this day, I can still
honestly say "HOLLEY SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCKS!"

Ok, I just spent the last two hours understanding ever little aspect of this
gun, and all I can conclude is to either: 1) take the damn thing back
(assuming I can find the receipt); or 2) throw the damn thing away. There is
nothing *wrong* with it, it simply won't pull a vacuum.

Referring once again to page 12 of the manual:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

There are only two air paths through this gun, and both exit through the air
cap with no connection whatsoever to the fluid path. The "main" path causes
air to flow out of the two tiny little air holes in the air cap on either side
of (and very close to) the central opening that the fluid passes through; the

That's your 'venturi vacuum principle'.


second path (which can be closed off completely by the "volume adjusting
screw") passes through the larger air holes in the "wings" of the air cap.
Closing off this air path should simply cause a mostly useless, and poorly
atomized round pattern, but it should not affect the gun's ability to draw a
vacuum.

My air cap has a small aperture around the main brass valve (holding
the needle) and several very tiny holes in the air cap. This combo
provides the vacuum-assist for gravity fluid flow behind the needle.


My conclusion is that drawing a vacuum is the job of the first air path;
because there is NO air path into the fluid path, there is no pressure of any
kind "forcing" or "coaxing" the fluid to come out.

It's a very, very subtle pull when working right.


The very strong blast of
focused air coming out of the two tiny nozzles in close proximity to the fluid
opening is what should be drawing the fluid out, and this simply isn't
happening. There are no blockages (or leakages) anywhere; this gun is as clean
as a whistle and I've verified all air paths until I'm blue in the face.

One funny little experiment I ran was to disconnect the fluid cup and all its
fittings from the body of the gun, then I actuated the trigger and checked for
vacuum in the fluid path by putting my *tongue* over the fluid input port, and
I could detect no vacuum whatsoever.

Use a milli-vacuum gauge, Steve. You're -not- pullin' 30 inches o'
Merc on a gun. vbg


Where's nailshooter Robert when you need him? I'm pretty much ready to toss
this gun and get one of the gravity feed models instead...

That's what I did. HF 43430 HVLP gravity fed beastie.

How long have you had this gun? If it's new and you're using HVLP
pressures, maybe turn up the air a whole bunch for proper action.
My tip says "10PSI Max" but I had warmed and thinned the latex paint
and ended up turning the pressure up to about 30 before I got any
flow. Yeah, I know, I needed a 30mm needle kit.

--
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what
to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity.
-- George S. Patton

** Where's nailshooter Robert when you need him? I'm pretty much
ready to toss
this gun and get one of the gravity feed models instead... **

Where indeed!

More importantly than where, is what has he been doing? Working on
some new emergency work contracts. A few really windy storms did a
lot of damage here last Friday, and I have a lot of brand new "best"
friends that are looking to have their domiciles secured. We have 40%
chance of thunderstorms Tuesday, Wednesday, and 30% on Thursday. I
almost have more than I can deal with now. I haven't had this volume
of calls in a year or more... lots of panic amongst my customers!

"Big Guy... you know what we call "crisis" in sales? (Taps his head
knowingly...) OPPORTUNITY!"

Herb Tarlek, Sales Manager
WKRP - Cincinnati

******************
There aren't really a lot of places for any of these little guns to go
wrong. More importantly, almost all MY personal spray gun problems
have come down to 1) improper cleaning 2) reaction of materials in the
gun to one another causing almost invisible material clots 3) improper
assembly.

It is hard to diagnose without seeing the gun in person. That aside,
I am thinking that Mike probably hit this one (although it may seem
improbable to you) early on. I'd be the problem is in the siphon
assembly. Somewhere.

There have been good posts that address all the likely suspects, but
it sounds like you have done a pretty good job on your own.

On the other hand, you may have a bad gun. Doubtful, but possible.

I am sure you are taking the gun apart correctly and putting it back
together correctly as well, so I won't bother with that.

I would take the gun apart again. This shouldn't take too long,
especially in the light of the fact you can probably do it blindfolded
now. Re-clean the inside of the housing chamber where the packing and
the retention nut for the packing go between the fluid nozzle ( #4)
and the packing and nut ( #16 and #17 ).

Take a BRIGHT flashlight and see if you can peer INTO the housing and
carefully inspect the needle packing area as well as well as the area
for the volume adjustment. These must be spotless. Everything inside
the gun housing must be spotless.

Use a gun brush to clean the inside, the threads. Use a toothpick to
clean the threads to see if anything comes off. Since this gun is
dead, if you find something you can't get off, try some paint stripper
on your brush and brush the inside of the housing out to see if
anything comes out. Don't leave it in too long as it will peel off
the chrome. Put it in brush it vigorously, then rinse it out.

After yet another full inspection, and making sure you are installing
all parts, reassemble. When you assemble, start at the back of the
gun and put in the needle assembly, packing, nut, etc. On the needle,
put a small amount of petroleum jelly on the length of needle all
around it. If the packing is good, it will skim off the jelly it
doesn't need and you can clean it off with a towel. This will make
your trigger much smoother and easier to shoot, and seal a bit better
as well.

Put the trigger on.

Assemble the volume adjustment group. It is tempting to put in the
ring/washer, then the packing, then the retention nut, then the
screw. Try it this way: install the screw into the retention/receiver
nut. You don't have to screw it in all the way. Once you have it
seated well, put the packing ring over the end of the needle, then add
the washer on top, then install it all into the housing. Before final
assembly of this group, put some petroleum jelly ( a bit ) all over
the packing ring to make sure the needle isn't sticking to it. It is
possible that a deformed packing ring (from assembly or sticking to
the screw) has added to your problem, and this could help prevent it.

As a sidebar, take a look at the volume adjustment screw. Some of
them are different than others. On some models, the screw is hollow
to facilitate material movement. If you have a hollow screw, then
make sure both ends are perfectly clean. If it feeds material through
the screw, the tiniest piece of debris will foul your gun.

Now you have everything put together except the things in front of the
housing. Open the volume screw about half way. Hold the gun securely
in one hand, and an rubber tipped air nozzle in the other. Insert the
rubber nozzle in the fluid nozzle seating area way to create a bit of
a seal. **Gently** open your air and see if any air comes out the
bottom of the head. If it doesn't, open the screw all the way and see
if you can get any debris to come out. If that doesn't work, close
down the needle, the put the air in from the underside of the gun and
the flow should come through the hole where the fluid nozzle goes.

If no air comes out, try increasing the air. You have probably found
the blockage.

Take a really hard look at the fluid nozzle. Run a toothpick through
the nozzle from the back until it pokes out of the fluid tube where
the needle sits. DO NOT push your toothpick through from the front as
you can easily leave debris that will re-clog your nozzle. If you can
see unobstructed daylight (again, hit it with the flashlight) then
after making sure there is nothing at all in the air ports, attach to
the gun.

Finish the assembly of the head.

Last, take a look at your pickup tube. Before installing you should
be able to hold it up to the light and see all the way through it, and
it should be clean as a whistle. If it is, install it.

Once again, make sure you can see through the vent hole in the cup
lid.

Try opening the air all the way (no more than about 20 lbs from the
compressor, all the way on the gun), and the fan about half way. Try
shooting some water through it.

Honestly, I would be surprised if you didn't cure it with all of
that. There just isn't much to go wrong with these guns. I just
sounds like a bad seal, bad seal placement, or a small piece of debris
got past you when cleaning.

But knowing that the most I have paid for either of the two I have was
$10, I wouldn't have my feelings hurt to go buy another or ask for a
replacement.

Let us know....

Robert

My syphon gun puts pressure into the container when i pull the trigger, Its acting like air pressure is bypassing somewhere, ive had it apart too many times, thereis a plunger valve with 3 seals on it, could air be by passing one of the brand new o ring seals ?

My syphon gun puts pressure into the container when i pull the trigger, Its acting like air pressure is bypassing somewhere, ive had it apart too many times, thereis a plunger valve with 3 seals on it, could air be by passing one of the brand new o ring seals ?

On Sunday, June 6, 2010 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5, Steve Turner wrote:
After a fair number of positive reviews in this group I decided to pick up this
spray gun a few months ago from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ay-gun-86.html

I used it once (probably to spray some clear lacquer; don't remember), cleaned
it (I've been using and cleaning out spray guns for over 30 years, so I'm no
dummy at this), and put it away. Pulled it back out this morning (that's what
she said) and tried to spray some Zinsser white shellac primer, and... nothing.
Lots of air flow, but no white fluid is coming out of the nozzle (that's what
she sai... er, never mind). Thinking there must be a clog or obstruction
somewhere, I started disassembling things and checking for problems, but found
nothing. Before I start talking specifics, those who pretend to care about my
piddly little problem might want to refer to the parts listing on page 12 of
the product manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

Ok, so there are no obstructions anywhe air is flowing from all the ports
in both the air cap and fluid nozzle; I've adjusted the fan adjusting screw
just far enough out so that the trigger has full travel (but no more) which
allows the needle to open according to the trigger pressure, and it retracts to
the fully closed position when the trigger is released. The volume adjusting
screw (which controls the amount of air flow to the "wings" of the air cap,
which in turn controls the amount of "fan-out" to the spray pattern) is working
properly, and you can feel the air flow from the air cap change as adjustments
are made; I was running it wide open, but its position makes no difference.

No matter how I adjust any of those contraptions, no fluid is being pulled from
the cup. And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is open,
and the shellac is sufficiently thinned for spraying. In fact, the cup can be
filled with straight denatured alcohol and it makes no difference; no siphoning
action is occurring. I can even remove the cup and stick the siphon tube into
a separate container of denatured alcohol, and still nothing. HOWEVER, if I
remove the gun from the cup, turn it upside down and fill the siphon tube with
fluid, VIOLA - It sprays! If I disconnect the gun from the air supply, fill
the siphon tube with thinner (still upside down), and actuate the trigger, a
steady stream of thinner runs out the nozzle and is depleted, just as I would
expect. EVERYTHING is working as I'd expect, except no siphon action is
occurring; I'm befuddled.

Any ideas?

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/


Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.

"Dr. Deb" writes:
On Sunday, June 6, 2010 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5, Steve Turner wrote:
And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is open,



Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.

Try again Dr. Deb.

(Scott Lurndal) wrote in
:

"Dr. Deb" writes:
On Sunday, June 6, 2010 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5, Steve Turner wrote:
And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is
open,



Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.

Try again Dr. Deb.

Gonna guess that in the 6+ years since Steve asked his question
he's figured out a solution, so trying again probably isn't
necessary.

John

(who wishes Google wouldn't link together totally unrelated
ancient threads.)

Dr. Deb wrote:
On Sunday, June 6, 2010 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5, Steve Turner wrote:
After a fair number of positive reviews in this group I decided to pick up this
spray gun a few months ago from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ay-gun-86.html

I used it once (probably to spray some clear lacquer; don't remember), cleaned
it (I've been using and cleaning out spray guns for over 30 years, so I'm no
dummy at this), and put it away. Pulled it back out this morning (that's what
she said) and tried to spray some Zinsser white shellac primer, and... nothing.
Lots of air flow, but no white fluid is coming out of the nozzle (that's what
she sai... er, never mind). Thinking there must be a clog or obstruction
somewhere, I started disassembling things and checking for problems, but found
nothing. Before I start talking specifics, those who pretend to care about my
piddly little problem might want to refer to the parts listing on page 12 of
the product manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/0-999/86.pdf

Ok, so there are no obstructions anywhe air is flowing from all the ports
in both the air cap and fluid nozzle; I've adjusted the fan adjusting screw
just far enough out so that the trigger has full travel (but no more) which
allows the needle to open according to the trigger pressure, and it retracts to
the fully closed position when the trigger is released. The volume adjusting
screw (which controls the amount of air flow to the "wings" of the air cap,
which in turn controls the amount of "fan-out" to the spray pattern) is working
properly, and you can feel the air flow from the air cap change as adjustments
are made; I was running it wide open, but its position makes no difference.

No matter how I adjust any of those contraptions, no fluid is being pulled from
the cup. And yes, the pressure release air hole in the top of the cup is open,
and the shellac is sufficiently thinned for spraying. In fact, the cup can be
filled with straight denatured alcohol and it makes no difference; no siphoning
action is occurring. I can even remove the cup and stick the siphon tube into
a separate container of denatured alcohol, and still nothing. HOWEVER, if I
remove the gun from the cup, turn it upside down and fill the siphon tube with
fluid, VIOLA - It sprays! If I disconnect the gun from the air supply, fill
the siphon tube with thinner (still upside down), and actuate the trigger, a
steady stream of thinner runs out the nozzle and is depleted, just as I would
expect. EVERYTHING is working as I'd expect, except no siphon action is
occurring; I'm befuddled.

Any ideas?

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/


Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.


The OP states that the vent is open. I'd be more suspicious of a
blocked pickup tube. His test of turning it upside down is not really a
very good test for this condition. I'd take the pickup tube right off,
and run a cleaning brush through it with solvents. At the same time,
inspect the head of the gun where the tube attaches. It only takes a
little bit of clog to mess these things up.


--
-Mike-


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John McCoy wrote:

John

(who wishes Google wouldn't link together totally unrelated
ancient threads.)

That's how threaded Usenet discussions work. For whatever reason Dr
Deb decided to reply to the thread originator (Steve Turner) instead
of the the thread reviver (basshammer5x4x3x2x).

Sonny wrote:

He describes a similar problem and Dr. Deb replied to Basshamme, not to Steve.

Are you a betting man, Sonny? (;


From: "Dr. Deb"
Subject: Siphon-feed spray gun won't siphon
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
In-Reply-To:
References:
Message-ID:

Spalted Walt wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

John

(who wishes Google wouldn't link together totally unrelated
ancient threads.)

That's how threaded Usenet discussions work.

No, it's not how Usenet works.

Usenet has a header called "References" which is used to
thread discussions. That header exists specifically because
you can have multiple threads with the same subject.
Unfortunately, the folks at Google are ignorant of that header
(or purposefully chose not to use it, which is worse)(*), so
they mash together all threads with the same subject line.

In this case Google has joined basshammer's current thread
to some ancient thread with the same title, and confused
Dr Deb as to which posts are current and which are not.

John

(* I'm convinced Google uses Groups as a dumping ground for
folks they don't want to fire, but are too incompetent to
work on anything Google's really interested in).

John McCoy wrote:

Spalted Walt wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

John

(who wishes Google wouldn't link together totally unrelated
ancient threads.)

That's how threaded Usenet discussions work.

No, it's not how Usenet works.

Yes, actually it does.

Usenet has a header called "References" which is used to
thread discussions. That header exists specifically because
you can have multiple threads with the same subject.

Had you bothered to look at the "References" in the header of
basshammer's post(s) you'd realize how ignorant/uninformed/wrong the
rest of your reply actually is.

Unfortunately, the folks at Google are ignorant of that header
(or purposefully chose not to use it, which is worse)(*), so
they mash together all threads with the same subject line.

In this case Google has joined basshammer's current thread
to some ancient thread with the same title, and confused
Dr Deb as to which posts are current and which are not.

John

(* I'm convinced Google uses Groups as a dumping ground for
folks they don't want to fire, but are too incompetent to
work on anything Google's really interested in).

The entire thread link is below. Examine it closely, then report
back on which posts Google ****ed up...

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...ng/fdvJX_-wNdo

Well, all that usenet stuff is irrelevant. Seems, Basshamme is now having problems with his siphon gun and the point is to help *Bass.

I suppose he is having a similar issue as Steve had. I would also check to make sure the siphon tube is connected, tightly/securely (missing o-ring or seal?), at its upper end, inside the cup. If everything (cleaning, etal) checks out ok, yet still sucking air, only, and not the finish/liquid material, then air may be coming directly from the vent hole to the upper tube, bypassing the liquid in the cup. Suction may be there, inside the cup, but not through the whole length of the tube.

Sonny

On Fri, 23 Sep 2016 20:16:23 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

The entire thread link is below. Examine it closely, then report
back on which posts Google ****ed up...

Would say that all of them, but more correctly all the usenet groups
would probably be accurate too.

But then I am a dinosaur using a usenet reader via Gianews.

Just like to complain to Google get off my lawn, ya know.

Spalted Walt wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

Usenet has a header called "References" which is used to
thread discussions. That header exists specifically because
you can have multiple threads with the same subject.

Had you bothered to look at the "References" in the header of
basshammer's post(s) you'd realize how ignorant/uninformed/wrong the
rest of your reply actually is.

Um, here's a hint: Basshammer's post came from Google Groups.
For the reason I already explained, the References header in
that post is incorrect. Basically, it's GIGO.

You can go read the RFC if you want to know how it's all
intended to work. It's not really a relevant subject here.

John

John McCoy wrote:

Spalted Walt wrote in
:

John McCoy wrote:

Usenet has a header called "References" which is used to
thread discussions. That header exists specifically because
you can have multiple threads with the same subject.

Had you bothered to look at the "References" in the header of
basshammer's post(s) you'd realize how ignorant/uninformed/wrong the
rest of your reply actually is.

Um, here's a hint: Basshammer's post came from Google Groups.

Here's a FACT: It matters NOT where "Basshammer's post came from".
Dr Deb's and Sonny's posts also "came from Google Groups" as well.
WTF is your point? Stop hating.

For the reason I already explained, the References header in
that post is incorrect.

You haven't explained **** because you're clearly clueless.
Basshammer's reply was to nailshooter, who was the last person to
post to this thread, until today.

Basically, it's GIGO.

Why the hate for Dr Deb, Sonny, and the others here that use Google groups?

You can go read the RFC if you want to know how it's all
intended to work. It's not really a relevant subject here.

John

I've been kicking around the Usenet since '94. I've forgotten more
than you'll ever know.

On 9/23/2016 3:55 PM, Sonny wrote:
Well, all that usenet stuff is irrelevant. Seems, Basshamme is now
having problems with his siphon gun and the point is to help *Bass.

+1

Sonny wrote:

Well, all that usenet stuff is irrelevant.

Actually "all that usenet stuff is" very relevant. It is SUPPOSED to
help prevent misdirected replys like you just did.

Seems, Basshamme is now having problems with his siphon gun and
the point is to help *Bass.

Which is why you should be posting your helpful reply to Basshamme, instead of me.
Will he even see it now? Who knows.

I suppose he is having a similar issue as Steve had. I would also check to make
sure the siphon tube is connected, tightly/securely (missing o-ring or seal?),
at its upper end, inside the cup. If everything (cleaning, etal) checks out ok,
yet still sucking air, only, and not the finish/liquid material, then air may be
coming directly from the vent hole to the upper tube, bypassing the liquid in
the cup. Suction may be there, inside the cup, but not through the whole
length of the tube.

Sonny

On 9/23/16 8:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:



Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.


The OP states that the vent is open. I'd be more suspicious of a
blocked pickup tube. His test of turning it upside down is not really a
very good test for this condition. I'd take the pickup tube right off,
and run a cleaning brush through it with solvents. At the same time,
inspect the head of the gun where the tube attaches. It only takes a
little bit of clog to mess these things up.



Yep, siphon guns usually work with a venturi at the top of the pickup
tube. If anything from this point forward is gunked up, the air will
start to bypass the spray head and turn down the pickup.

-BR

Brewster wrote:
On 9/23/16 8:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:



Or it could be something as simple as a blocked vent hole.


The OP states that the vent is open. I'd be more suspicious of a
blocked pickup tube. His test of turning it upside down is not really a
very good test for this condition. I'd take the pickup tube right off,
and run a cleaning brush through it with solvents. At the same time,
inspect the head of the gun where the tube attaches. It only takes a
little bit of clog to mess these things up.



Yep, siphon guns usually work with a venturi at the top of the pickup
tube. If anything from this point forward is gunked up, the air will
start to bypass the spray head and turn down the pickup.

-BR


Yup - these issues almost always turn out to be cleaning issues, or
tightening down the packing (though probably not in this case), and more
rarely, a rebuild kit. Cleaning - that's the number one issue and the
first thing to go for.


--
-Mike-


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replying to Sonny, TrailerGuy wrote:
I had this same problem and came here to see if it had an answer. None of the
above helped me but I just fixed it! Beteewn the nozzle and the body is a
flat, soft, plastic washer with lots of holes to allow the air through. When
the retaining ring is screwd on there is meant to be a perfect deal. As the
plastic washer had become less flexible the seal was not happening because the
there was too big a gap. I filed back the surround to the nozzle so that it
seats on the base and now the washer seals it up perfectly. I'd include a
photo, but how?

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