|
Sealing edge of particle board
This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I
hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
On Fri, 28 May 2010 20:39:07 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon When I cut a hole in a particle board countertop to install a sink, I just seal the edge with a couple coats of Kilz primer, ot thick latex paint - which ever is readilly available. |
Sealing edge of particle board
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon Latex caulk. Art |
Sealing edge of particle board
Artemus wrote:
Latex caulk. Art 'Ya know, that had actually crossed my mind. I wonder if thinning it slightly with some latex primer would make it more "brushable" and give it bit more penetration. Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
"Jon Danniken" wrote in
: This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon FWIW, I bought a similar shelf several months ago. Upon attempting to paint the "bare" wood, the paint didn't take like it would on bare wood. There might be a finish of some sort on the shelves that take care of your problem (or cause some later.) Puckdropper -- Never teach your apprentice everything you know. |
Sealing edge of particle board
Jon Danniken wrote:
This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon Why bother sealing edges? The whole panel is made that way. The whole panel will absorb water like a wet sponge. I do a lot of boat woodwork these days. Edges do have more pores to work with. But particle board? I have eight of those shelf units now. I sprayed first half with sanding sealer. They are in a lot better shape than the newer bare ones. If you use water based glue. what will happen when the shelves get wet? Paint 'em. Kilz should work well for what they are.. -- Richard Lamb |
Sealing edge of particle board
Puckdropper wrote:
FWIW, I bought a similar shelf several months ago. Upon attempting to paint the "bare" wood, the paint didn't take like it would on bare wood. There might be a finish of some sort on the shelves that take care of your problem (or cause some later.) Aye, I did notice that the top/bottom of the shelves were a lot smoother than I expect from particle board. I think I'll Q-tip a dab of paint on the end before I leave this morning and see what it looks like later. Thanks, Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
On 5/29/2010 2:29 AM, cavelamb wrote:
Jon Danniken wrote: This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon Why bother sealing edges? The whole panel is made that way. The whole panel will absorb water like a wet sponge. I do a lot of boat woodwork these days. Edges do have more pores to work with. But particle board? I have eight of those shelf units now. I sprayed first half with sanding sealer. They are in a lot better shape than the newer bare ones. If you use water based glue. what will happen when the shelves get wet? The same thing that happens to a house painted with "water based paint" when it rains? Like, not much? There's a difference between "waterborne" and "water soluble when cured". Sure, white glue softens when it gets wet, but Titebond III doesn't. And next time you use some urea-formaldehyde, toss the cured lump that's always left over in a jar of water and put it on a shelf and a year later see if it's softened any. Paint 'em. Kilz should work well for what they are.. |
Sealing edge of particle board
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon Jon, Several years ago, I made closet shelves out of 3/4" particle board. To smooth out the edges I used dry wall compound for a filler. Then I painted them. They are still as good as ever. Dry wall compound is cheap dries pretty fast and is easy to sand. Bea |
Sealing edge of particle board
On 2010-05-29, Jon Danniken wrote:
As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. Near as I can tell, it goes by the generic name of edging or edge banding. I have no experience with it, but plan to try it if I cut some vaneered particle board and need to cover the exposed raw edges. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...ding-guide.htm nb |
Sealing edge of particle board
Bea Essor wrote:
Several years ago, I made closet shelves out of 3/4" particle board. To smooth out the edges I used dry wall compound for a filler. Then I painted them. They are still as good as ever. Dry wall compound is cheap dries pretty fast and is easy to sand. Ingenious idea Bea, thanks. That would also smooth it out really well, and I still have a big box of the stuff. Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
notbob wrote:
Near as I can tell, it goes by the generic name of edging or edge banding. I have no experience with it, but plan to try it if I cut some vaneered particle board and need to cover the exposed raw edges. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...ding-guide.htm Neat product. I usually glue veneer on the edge of plywood for projects, but that looks a heckuva lot easier (and quicker) to apply. Thanks! Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... Artemus wrote: Latex caulk. Art 'Ya know, that had actually crossed my mind. I wonder if thinning it slightly with some latex primer would make it more "brushable" and give it bit more penetration. Jon I've not had any problems with it sticking and I just run a finger down the edge pushing it in as I go and cleaning the excess with a paper towel. This leaves a slight texture and if you want a dead flat edge with crisp corners then drywall compound put on with a putty knife is a better way to go. Art |
Sealing edge of particle board
On Fri, 28 May 2010 20:39:07 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I hope it will be close enough to on topic. I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished. As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am looking for a way to seal up the edges. I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue? Any other methods? Thanks, Jon Depends on the application. I have filled edges with joint compound before sealing with a shellac primer. I guess a shop-made wood filler will work too, but less water the better--you centainly dont want the particle board to swell near the edges. |
Sealing edge of particle board (Followup)
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I went with Bea's (and later, other
posters) suggestion and used a joint compound. I couldn't find my regular joint compound, so I used "Fixall" by Custom instead. It had the advantage of allowing me to paint it with latex paint right after I applied it, so I got the edge fill and painting done at the same time. The edges finished up very nice. Jon |
Sealing edge of particle board
On Sat, 29 May 2010 10:45:19 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: notbob wrote: Near as I can tell, it goes by the generic name of edging or edge banding. I have no experience with it, but plan to try it if I cut some vaneered particle board and need to cover the exposed raw edges. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...ding-guide.htm Neat product. I usually glue veneer on the edge of plywood for projects, but that looks a heckuva lot easier (and quicker) to apply. Thanks! Jon The "iron on" stuff sometimes works, but more often comes off before you want it to. I often use the "pound in" type "T" molding to edge particle board. Just cut a saw kerf doun the middle and knock the plastic molding in. |
Sealing edge of particle board
|
Sealing edge of particle board
"notbob" wrote in message
... On 2010-05-30, wrote: particle board. Just cut a saw kerf doun the middle and knock the plastic molding in. Excuse my cluelessness, but how do you saw such a slot (kerf)? nb Carefully. Run the edge down across the table saw. Or, run edge in on a router table with a slot cutting bit mounted. Or, stretch a biscuit jointer to it's limits by running it along the edge. Or, run a hand held router along the edge (router base flat on face of board. I'd use either of the router options. As would sellers of T-Molding. |
Sealing edge of particle board
On 2010-05-30, Lobby Dosser wrote:
Carefully. Run the edge down across the table saw. Or, run edge in on a router table with a slot cutting bit mounted. Or, stretch a biscuit jointer to it's limits by running it along the edge. Or, run a hand held router along the edge (router base flat on face of board. I'd use either of the router options. As would sellers of T-Molding. I kinda suspected the router option, but also have zero router experience. Probably should learn some router basics and look at a basic router and bits. Thank you. nb |
Sealing edge of particle board
On Sun, 30 May 2010 04:22:13 GMT, notbob wrote:
On 2010-05-30, wrote: particle board. Just cut a saw kerf doun the middle and knock the plastic molding in. Excuse my cluelessness, but how do you saw such a slot (kerf)? nb I do it with a high fence on a table saw, but a friend made a jig that fits the "shoe " of his skill saw that does the job very nicely. |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
Josepi wrote:
OMG! Epoxy? LOL That's a lot of mixing the two parts, expense and the epoxy would be harder than the chip board!. Nice strong edge but may not sand evenly when the chipboard wears away with sandpaper, unevenly. If you're painting just use drywall mud. Works well. Thats what I use and have used it on plywood to. works great. -- You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK ! Mandriva 2010 using KDE 4.3 Website: www.rentmyhusband.biz |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs.
I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
|
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
|
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On 09/06/2016 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The URL is what I was referring to in my first post to this thread. I thought it was one piece. I don't see 5/8 of an inch causing a large safety problem. Especially considering the alternative that was being discussed in this thread. |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 08:36:33 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 9/6/2016 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? If the holes are relatively large fill with Rock Hard, tiny holes, any putty. Paint with a quality Deck Paint. Nine of those will do a satisfactory job of filling the "open grain" edge of partical board. I second the hardwood "caps" or thin plywood and solid wood noses shop made and securelu glued. |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 11:38:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed. Carpet and underpadding is very close to the thickness of the "treads" |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 14:44:27 -0400, knuttle
wrote: On 09/06/2016 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The URL is what I was referring to in my first post to this thread. I thought it was one piece. I don't see 5/8 of an inch causing a large safety problem. Especially considering the alternative that was being discussed in this thread. The "berber" carpet on my basement steps is very close to 1/2 inch thick, including the underpad - the cut loop on the upstairs steps is slightly thicker. I'd say it is "pretty much" a none issue. |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
|
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On 9/6/2016 1:44 PM, knuttle wrote:
I don't see 5/8 of an inch causing a large safety problem. Especially considering the alternative that was being discussed in this thread. IME, folk don't take code compliance, with regard to variance in step heights of stairs, seriously enough ... in particular should aging/elder residents being involved. The maximum variance from the first step to the last in most municipal building codes is 3/8". So yes, a 5/8" variance from first to last step could indeed be a problem, particularly in a future sale where a seller's disclosure is required, or a third party inspection is required. Anyone contemplating what the OP is contemplating should do some careful measurements, taking into account the height of the finished floor to both the first, and the last step, or any intermediate landing, to insure the maximum 3/8" variance requirement is met. A failure to disclose/remedy could result in a liability issue for a owner/seller/lessor, now, or in the future. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On 9/6/16 1:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." I don't no and don't care. :-) I posted it as a response to what I thought was an absurd question. There is no way on earth the painted particle board won't look like $h!t no matter how much work they put into it. And if by some miracle from the Bondo gods they got it smooth and hard enough to look good, the time and energy could've been spent tearing out the particle board and doing it right. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On 9/6/2016 3:18 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 08:36:33 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 9/6/2016 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? If the holes are relatively large fill with Rock Hard, tiny holes, any putty. Paint with a quality Deck Paint. Nine of those will do a satisfactory job of filling the "open grain" edge of partical board. I second the hardwood "caps" or thin plywood and solid wood noses shop made and securelu glued. Well at least nine will work. ;~) But Rock Hard will fill a porous edge just fine. |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
|
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 2:44:36 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 09/06/2016 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The URL is what I was referring to in my first post to this thread. I thought it was one piece. I don't see 5/8 of an inch causing a large safety problem. Especially considering the alternative that was being discussed in this thread. Do I understand that you would prefer a good-looking unsafe solution over an ugly yet safe solution? |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 4:20:39 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 11:38:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed. Carpet and underpadding is very close to the thickness of the "treads" Maybe I missed it, but where does it say that the carpet has been removed? |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On 9/7/2016 2:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 4:20:39 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 11:38:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed. Carpet and underpadding is very close to the thickness of the "treads" Maybe I missed it, but where does it say that the carpet has been removed? My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 3:48:03 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 9/7/2016 2:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 4:20:39 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 11:38:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed. Carpet and underpadding is very close to the thickness of the "treads" Maybe I missed it, but where does it say that the carpet has been removed? My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, Sounds to me like a future plan, not a completed task. They *have* something that they'd *like to* change. Unless Clare has had other communications with the OP, I'm curious how he can claim: "The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed." |
Sealing edge of particle board - Update
On Wed, 7 Sep 2016 12:24:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 4:20:39 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 11:38:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 at 1:19:50 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 9/6/16 2:33 AM, wrote: My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs. I have read everyone's ideas for filling and smoothing a surface. This surface will need to be durable enough to withstand continual foot scraping and weight changes as we run up and down stairs. And the treated surfaces must be sandable. Which filler would you gentlemen recommend? Any recommended type of paint for such stairs? I would fill them with these. :-) http://www.lowes.com/pd/RetroTread-11-5-in-x-42-in-Raw-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3191553 Aren't those going to throw off the rise of the top step? Assuming the steps are all evenly spaced now, isn't the rise from the top step onto the landing/hallway going to be .625" less than rise of the rest of the steps? A minor problem going up, but it could be a safety issue coming down. As my grandfather used to say when explaining the proper way to build steps: "The feet remember." The steps are already non-standard because the carpet has been removed. Carpet and underpadding is very close to the thickness of the "treads" Maybe I missed it, but where does it say that the carpet has been removed? You didn't read the initial post? It's quoted right at the top of your reply - but I will repeat it for you. Quoted from the OP: "My husband and I have carpeted stairs made of paticle board. I'd like to ditch the carpet, scrape out the staples, fill those particle boards and paint the stairs." Remove the carpet and the step hight is no longer "to code" if it was before. Replacing the carpet with a stair tread cap brings it back to spec. You guys have WAY too much spare time if you have to argue such arcane points - without reading what you are complaining about even - - - - |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:41 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter