Q Re Sanding Sealer
 

I am tinkering with finishing some teak I bought today (thanks Jeremy). The
sanding sealer instructs to sand with 150 grit, but I used 320 for the last
pass. It seems that one would rather use the same grit to sand the sealer
as was used last to prep the piece. Does this make sense or is there some
reason to use the less fine paper? And if so should I then step back down
to the 320?

Jeff

Q Re Sanding Sealer
 

"Oscar" wrote in message
...
I am tinkering with finishing some teak I bought today (thanks Jeremy).
The
sanding sealer instructs to sand with 150 grit, but I used 320 for the
last
pass. It seems that one would rather use the same grit to sand the sealer
as was used last to prep the piece. Does this make sense or is there some
reason to use the less fine paper? And if so should I then step back down
to the 320?

Jeff


I've seen instructions lots of times that you control the shade of the
stain by the final grit before applying it. 100 and 150 grit are
recommended for a darker stain and 220 & up for lighter and finer stains.
Makes sense, I've tested the theory & it does work well to get closer to the
shade you want on the first application. Penetration seems deeper too at
lower grits.

Pop

Q Re Sanding Sealer
 

You told me you were not going to touch that stuff as you had no plans
:-) I thought you might not be able to leave it alone for long.
Wood workiers seem to be like fishermen, except the tall tales become
before they do anything.

I am glad the wood found a good home, now to get rid of the other 4,000
BF and I will be happy.

BTW coarse grit for the sanding sealer, but teak really does not need
it.

JJ

Oscar wrote:

I am tinkering with finishing some teak I bought today (thanks Jeremy). The
sanding sealer instructs to sand with 150 grit, but I used 320 for the last
pass. It seems that one would rather use the same grit to sand the sealer
as was used last to prep the piece. Does this make sense or is there some
reason to use the less fine paper? And if so should I then step back down
to the 320?

Jeff

Q Re Sanding Sealer
 

Jeremy,
I only messed with about 1 bft, just experimenting with some
finishes....first sanding sealer followed by high gloss poly. Looks pretty
good but I'm going to try just toung oil next, experiment with 3-4 coats,
maybe more. I got my old teak entertainment center out of storage this
weekend (living room is finally done). I never really examined the piece
until now, it is really beautiful wood...the grain or texture really jumps
out at you (reminds me of quilted maple in a way). Unfortunately, it is
veneer over a cheap particle board and not quality construction. An
excelent way to make a fine wood cheap.

Do you have any suggestions on how to make the texture jump out and grab
your attnention?

Jeff

BTY, I took samples to work to gloat...I send any prospects your
way......If I cant have it all......crap.


"Jeremy" wrote in message
...
You told me you were not going to touch that stuff as you had no plans
:-) I thought you might not be able to leave it alone for long.
Wood workiers seem to be like fishermen, except the tall tales become
before they do anything.

I am glad the wood found a good home, now to get rid of the other 4,000
BF and I will be happy.

BTW coarse grit for the sanding sealer, but teak really does not need
it.

JJ

Oscar wrote:

I am tinkering with finishing some teak I bought today (thanks Jeremy).
The
sanding sealer instructs to sand with 150 grit, but I used 320 for the
last
pass. It seems that one would rather use the same grit to sand the
sealer
as was used last to prep the piece. Does this make sense or is there
some
reason to use the less fine paper? And if so should I then step back
down
to the 320?

Jeff

Q Re Sanding Sealer
 

Oscar wrote:

Jeremy,
I only messed with about 1 bft, just experimenting with some
finishes....first sanding sealer followed by high gloss poly. Looks pretty
good but I'm going to try just toung oil next, experiment with 3-4 coats,
maybe more. I got my old teak entertainment center out of storage this
weekend (living room is finally done). I never really examined the piece
until now, it is really beautiful wood...the grain or texture really jumps
out at you (reminds me of quilted maple in a way). Unfortunately, it is
veneer over a cheap particle board and not quality construction. An
excelent way to make a fine wood cheap.

Do you have any suggestions on how to make the texture jump out and grab
your attnention?

Jeff

BTY, I took samples to work to gloat...I send any prospects your
way......If I cant have it all......crap.

A couple of light layers of pure tung oil or a mix with linseed and a
clear finish over the top if you do not want to keep oiling throughout
the life of the piece. Two or three coats of sanding sealer also does
the job quite well.

Jeremy
Contact me for cheap teak