Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.

MEW

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On Apr 8, 5:50*pm, Mark Whittingham wrote:
I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. *I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. *As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. *For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. *I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. *Any info for me? *Thanks.

MEW

I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

"Mark Whittingham" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.

MEW

HSS drill bits are better:

I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. Superior results
were obtained with genuine HSS. Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all
are made with true

High Speed Steel. To convince yourself make a test drilling 1/2" and
greater dia holes in oak or maple using.

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On Apr 8, 6:40*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 8, 5:50*pm, Mark Whittingham wrote:

I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. *I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. *As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. *For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. *I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. *Any info for me? *Thanks.

MEW

I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

(I just buy the set of 5)

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On 04/08/2010 04:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:

I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

I looked at those, but I realized that they really only apply to tapered
brass screws and you need to set the depth precisely to match the length
of the screw.

For assembly work I normally use rolled-thread screws where the shank is
almost the same as the root diameter. The tapered drills don't match
these screws well at all.

Chris

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On Apr 8, 6:50*pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 04/08/2010 04:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:

I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

I looked at those, but I realized that they really only apply to tapered
brass screws and you need to set the depth precisely to match the length
of the screw.

For assembly work I normally use rolled-thread screws where the shank is
almost the same as the root diameter. *The tapered drills don't match
these screws well at all.

Chris

For that kind of assembly work, I use an 1/8" brad point in an air
drill and #8 low root screws... usually 2".
You don't need a tapered screw to use the tapered bits. In fact, the
further in a regular screw goes into a tapered pilot hole, the better
grab you get. You don't go all the way to the bottom of the hole.

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

If you want bits for steel, try these.

http://www.wintersdrillbitcity.com/

Bob

"Mark Whittingham" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.

MEW

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On 2010-04-08, Denis M wrote:

"Mark Whittingham" wrote in message

the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.

HSS drill bits are better:

I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. Superior results
were obtained with genuine HSS.

Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all are made with true

Jes where does one find those?

Anyway.... I don't know spit about wood bits, but as a machinist, for
twist bits get gen-you-whine (like Denis says) High Speed Steel (HSS).
Accept no substitutes. Forget "coated" or "nitride" or that real
scam, the "chrome vanadium" nonsense on the $5 table. They're all
junk. Get real HSS or nothing. You could go "carbide" (not carbon!),
but that's money wasted unless you really need it. For wood, believe
me, you don't.

If you have any doubts:

http://www.vermontamerican.com/Suppo...ps/Drill+Bits/

nb

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On Apr 8, 7:12*pm, notbob wrote:
On 2010-04-08, Denis M wrote:



"Mark Whittingham" wrote in message
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. *I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. *Any info for me? *Thanks.
HSS drill bits are better:

I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. *Superior results
were obtained with genuine HSS. *
Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all are made with true

Jes where does one find those?

Anyway.... *I don't know spit about wood bits, but as a machinist, for
twist bits get gen-you-whine (like Denis says) High Speed Steel (HSS).
Accept no substitutes. *Forget "coated" or "nitride" or that real
scam, the "chrome vanadium" nonsense on the $5 table. *They're all
junk. *Get real HSS or nothing. *You could go "carbide" (not carbon!),
but that's money wasted unless you really need it. *For wood, believe
me, you don't.

HSS it is. thanks all.
MW

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

HSS or cobalt steel are good steel drills - the fancy gold or reddish
coatings are that - just coatings that help lube the drill.

Tantalum nitride is a lube or wear resistance material only - says
NOTHING of the metal inside. Some of the nicest looking drills are
just junk.

M2, M42 are quality strength metals used as base metals.

Buyer beware - save money - look and research first!
Martin

Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 8, 5:50 pm, Mark Whittingham wrote:
I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.

MEW

I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On Apr 8, 3:50*pm, Mark Whittingham wrote:
I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. *I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. *As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. *For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. *I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. *Any info for me? *Thanks.

MEW

Should get my Bosch "Cobalt Twist Drill Bit Assortment with Metal
Index, 29-Piece" in a couple of days.

Stay tuned.

My understanding is that -- for the moment -- these are as good as it
gets, will still do a nice, clean job with wood, and ... will handle
those occasional, nagging titanium-drilling tasks that ... just come
up.

Split point ... SHOULD keep the bits from walking -- a major issue on
cheaper bits.

Bought them from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CO4029-C.../dp/B0000TZX3K

If nothing else, I'm looking forward to not breaking them, and having
them stay sharp longer....

Drill bits - what's worth the money?
 

On 2010-04-10, Stuart wrote:
In article
,
Neil Brooks wrote:
My understanding is that -- for the moment -- these are as good as it
gets, will still do a nice, clean job with wood, and ... will handle
those occasional, nagging titanium-drilling tasks that ... just come
up.

Hmmm -|

For metal I'd go look for Dormer, Intal, Presto, Osbourne.

In the US, probably Brown and Sharpe or similar


I use these for metal:
http://drillbitcity.com/catalogue/10...p?Pt=4&St=&Sc=

These will handle hardened steel (knife tangs).

seismo malm