I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 12:08:04 -0800 (PST), Ed Lowenstein
wrote:

I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much

Cutting it a little close for thickness, but some of these might work.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43648,43649
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43648,43649
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43648,43649
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43648,43649

On 2/23/10 3:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:
I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much

:http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...648,43649&ap=1

Can you get a 7/16 hole in them? Might need two kits.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

What you are looking for may be found he

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...648,43649&ap=1

Blind Shelf Supports
Made of zinc-plated steel, a pair of these blind shelf supports will invisibly hold a 1" or thicker shelf. Each mounting plate is anchored to the wall studs with two flat-head screws, and the projecting 5" long hex posts slip into 7/16" holes drilled in the back side of the shelf. Even if your holes end up slightly undersize, the corners of the hex post will cut their way in.
The design ensures that the alloy steel coupling screws remain tensioned between the posts and inserts in the plates, yielding a respectable capacity of 100 lb for a 4" deep shelf and up to 50 lb at 8" deep*.

Additional supports are sold singly for increasing load capacity on shelves long enough to span more than two studs; each extra support adds 50 lb more
capacity at 4" deep, and 25 lb more at 8" deep*.

The simple instructions included make installation a snap.

Made in Canada.

P D Q


In ,
Ed Lowenstein dropped this bit of wisdom:
I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much

On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:
I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much

Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:
On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:

I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much


Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

....or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your
new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as
with the LV supports.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:

Chris Friesen wrote:
On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:

I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much


Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your
new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as
with the LV supports.

I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will
it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC
Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.

I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.


--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:


Chris Friesen wrote:

On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:


I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much


Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your
new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as
with the LV supports.


I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will
it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC
Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.

I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.


--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

Actually I'd really use a cut-off wheel mounted on a air powered die
grinder, but give the recent threads...

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 2/24/2010 2:50 PM, Nova wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:


Chris Friesen wrote:

On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:


I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much


Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with
your new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the
shelf as with the LV supports.


I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will
it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC
Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.

I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.


--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

Actually I'd really use a cut-off wheel mounted on a air powered die
grinder, but give the recent threads...

Dunno about the HF, but with the metal cutting blade the Fein will go
through nails, lags, or anything else that's not hardened.

But it's slow and you're chewing up an expen$ive blade. I agree--cutoff
wheel in a die grinder or Dremel is really the way to go for that job.

On Feb 23, 3:08*pm, Ed Lowenstein wrote:
I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat

The LV Blind Shelf Supports don't seem to be as secure as might the
Lag Screw Approach.

There are some pretty long lag screws available "out there" and the
idea of screwing a rod a couple of inches into the wall stud and,
then, slipping the [appropriately drilled] shelf board over the
exposed ends after cutting the hex heads off looks to be a much
stronger approach than possible with the LV rods.

Alternatively, just get some solid rods from the hardware store and,
after drilling appropriate holes into the walls at the studs and a
matching set of three or so into the shelf board, slip them in the
wall and slip the shelf board on and you have a removeable setup.

In either case, I think a ledger board about the width of the shelf
and maybe 1 x 2 inches could be fastened to the bottomm rear of teh
shelf board to add a bit more support.

On Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:50:34 -0500, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:


Chris Friesen wrote:

On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:


I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much


Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to
be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in
your case.

One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of
the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way
through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each
stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along
the front edge to cover them up.

Chris

...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your
new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as
with the LV supports.


I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will
it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC
Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.

I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.


--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

Actually I'd really use a cut-off wheel mounted on a air powered die
grinder, but give the recent threads...

What? Sparks all over your hardwood floor and/or carpeting? Not a
good idea, Yack. I'd only do that in the (preswept, if that were
possible in mine) shop or out on the wet grass. Recip is much safer
inside ('cept when you cut into a 240v line. DAMHIKT

--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn

I drilled and drove steel dowels into the studs and the back of
the board before. Your wood should work well with 3/8 dowel. It
does require a bit of care at installation, but quite effective
when done.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ed Lowenstein" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a
cleat
screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the
shelf is
a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep.
Can I
make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this
application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much