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#1
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#2
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. Cheap (made from scraps), Simple Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table. What doesn't? What there is of it, works well. What mistakes did you make? Left out blade guards. All that stuff... Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#3
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 17, 1:41*am, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... -- * -MIKE- * "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" * * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004) * -- *http://mikedrums.com * * ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply make sure it's square shelly |
#4
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
-MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels. I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for straight cuts so no miter gauge. _____________ What have you done that works well. The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48". The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push the sled. ____________ What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut off. I'll fix that one of these days... -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#5
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side. It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with the leading fence end where the blade came through. With the fence in the back your mark needs to be on the nottom front edge of the board and you need to lean over far enough to see the alignmant of the mark with the end of the bed of the sled where the blade came through. Because I wanted more than a 90 degree cutting sled I bought a left and right version of these sleds about 10 years ago. They still work very very well. You can cut most any angle accurately and make repeated cuts accurately. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html |
#6
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
two things:
I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any lateral slip of the workpiece. Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... |
#7
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Morris Dovey wrote:
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote: Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. Cheap (made from scraps), Simple Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table. What doesn't? What there is of it, works well. What mistakes did you make? Left out blade guards. All that stuff... Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine. |
#8
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, "Joe" wrote:
two things: I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any lateral slip of the workpiece. Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and screwed in a piece of ply. *When it gets worn out, replace it. Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks |
#9
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Jan 17, 10:00 am, "Joe" wrote: two things: I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any lateral slip of the workpiece. Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks If memory serves (and it rarely does), it was about 3" x 3" |
#10
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... The three I use the most: http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#11
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 16, 11:41*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su...g_1_110209.JPG The plex is probably a bit thin (IIRC, 0.093"). I have thicker stock, but haven't replaced it. Simple. Scrap. Free. Square. Works. Johnson's Paste Wax on the bottom and on the runners. I could surf Hawaii's North Shore on this bad boy.... |
#12
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/2010 9:25 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine. Fill your tank and head for Iowa, then. It's a spare and you're welcome to it. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#13
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote:
So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. Cheap (made from scraps), Simple Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table. Hadn't thought of stops. Thanks. All that stuff... Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ Simple and effective. SMO from you. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#14
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side. It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with the leading fence end where the blade came through. I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great idea, then and now. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for miters. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#15
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/10 9:00 AM, Joe wrote:
two things: I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any lateral slip of the workpiece. I did that to the coping sled I made for the router table and it works wonders. I'd say it's a certain necessity for melamine. Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well. Have any pics? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#16
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/10 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:
The three I use the most: http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down. I like that 45-er. Wish I had the space to make several. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#17
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
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#18
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 17, 1:41*am, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... -- * -MIKE- * "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" * * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004) * -- *http://mikedrums.com * * ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply Make the fence adjustable to make squaring easier. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_Sled_Fence.php |
#19
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 00:41:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote: Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. There was an article in FWW (?) years ago about squaring the fence (it might have been "methods of work" or something simliar). Once the sled is complete except for the back fence: Attach the fence on one side with a screw so that it's free to swivel. Then swivel it away from the assembly. Attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the left side of the table of the sled, so that it extends an inch or so to the right of the blade. They used screws through the bottom of the table of the sled, upward into the ply. Run the sled through the balde, and remove the plywood waste. Use a good framing square, set up against the 1/4 plywood, and align the back fence to the sqaure. Temporarily clamp/attach the back fence, and run the sled through the blade again. Then make the usual test cuts and check for square. Make the micro-asjustments, then finalize the fence attachment and remove the plywood. Seemed to work good. -Zz |
#20
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote: Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side. It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with the leading fence end where the blade came through. I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great idea, then and now. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for miters. IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish. |
#21
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/17/10 3:38 PM, Leon wrote:
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for miters. IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish. I wouldn't argue with that. :-) 'preciate it. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#22
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
So, show me yours.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. What have you done that works well. Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ -- Morris Dovey First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy, not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption" My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my crosscutting need has the following properties: * a single runner, http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx * about 20 wide by 16 deep * fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap (stable, free and consistent) * fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge. This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade when necessary. Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well). -Steve |
#23
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Stephen
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)? Russ "StephenM" wrote in message ... So, show me yours. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. What have you done that works well. Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ -- Morris Dovey First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy, not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption" My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my crosscutting need has the following properties: * a single runner, http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx * about 20 wide by 16 deep * fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap (stable, free and consistent) * fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge. This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade when necessary. Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well). -Steve |
#24
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/20/10 7:22 AM, StephenM wrote:
First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy, not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption" I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa. As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application. My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my crosscutting need has the following properties: * a single runner, http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx I bought that for the runner on my router table coping sled and I'm not a fan. It works fine, but it's too difficult to hone in the width. Next one I buy (if I do) will have the the little nubs that push out from one side, like this one... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21651 However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps, which are "free." * fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap (stable, free and consistent) That's what I'm aiming at, right now. BTW, the melamine was "free," too. * fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge. This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade when necessary. Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well). -Steve Thanks for the input! -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#25
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa. OK As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application. My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too. However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps, which are "free." You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies. Cheers, Steve |
#26
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/20/10 1:41 PM, StephenM wrote:
I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa. OK As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application. My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too. Understood. But I also like some mass to things like this. The weight holds it down to the table. I like the mass on my tenoning jig, too. I don't what it is... it just feels better to me to push something with some mass. It's like it doesn't feel any different to push whether you have a big or a little piece of stock in it. However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps, which are "free." You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies. I don't know about better skills. :-) I had a long strip of poplar or hickory close to size. I ran it through my planer until it was a good height, then again to get a perfect width. And you're right, there seems to be more play with double runners. Even though both runners fit perfectly, I'm prepared to deal with some seasonal change, by employing something similar to this technique... http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/make-an-adjustable-miter-bar/ -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#27
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ Posted to ABPW. Subj: "Yet another sled" |
#28
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- wrote:
So, show me yours. Never use the things - too dangerous. Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut _box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway. Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves together past the sawcut. There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here too, just in case I slide it a bit too far. |
#29
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Thanks
Russ "StephenM" wrote in message ... Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)? Russ Posted to ABPW. Subj: "Yet another sled" |
#30
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
This is a great string of information. I need to build one of these
too and there is some great info here. Especially enjoyed Swingman's page of ideas. This is why this group is such a great resource. Thanks guys. RonB |
#31
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote:
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)? Russ Posted to ABPW. Subj: "Yet another sled" Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any number of the dozens of free picture sites. Several of us use one of the following... http://picasaweb.google.com http://photobucket.com/ http://www.flickr.com/ -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#32
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 17 Jan, 06:41, wrote: So, show me yours. Never use the things - too dangerous. Semantics. You built a sled with a lid. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#33
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 21, 11:03*am, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote: On 17 Jan, 06:41, *wrote: So, show me yours. Never use the things - too dangerous. Semantics. * You built a sled with a lid. GREAT line from the TV show, "House:" You anti-semantic ******* :-) |
#34
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org: On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote: Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)? Russ Posted to ABPW. Subj: "Yet another sled" Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any number of the dozens of free picture sites. Several of us use one of the following... http://picasaweb.google.com http://photobucket.com/ http://www.flickr.com/ Take a look he http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ The guy who owns the site used to post here. I haven't seen a post from him in quite a while, though. Puckdropper |
#36
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
I see one huge flaw in that design:
The stop has to be completely unthreaded and removed to accommodate a board longer than the sled is wide. An F-clamp with a block arguably less fuss. Maybe if the back corner of the stop block were radiused so that it could rotate up and out of the way of 1-by stock it would be better. -Steve This one from the WoodSmithShop is simple and neat. http://tinyurl.com/ycf73f9 Lew |
#37
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long. But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30" -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#38
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Take a look he http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote: My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long. But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30" Rough cut with any saw to 30+" -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote: On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote: My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long. But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30" Rough cut with any saw to 30+" By definition "rough" is not "square". That said, a simple solution is to put a spacer board between the fence and the workpiece to allow it to extend past the stop block. I know this because I frequently set up my stop block and then realize that I had not yet squared up my ends. -Steve |
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