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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.

Many thanks in advance!

Kevin
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Kevin wrote:
Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.


There is plenty of information around. What you need to google is books
on "built-in storage".

Here's a start for you:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?ur...torage&x=0&y=0

--
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Kevin wrote:
Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.


There is plenty of information around. What you need to google is books on
"built-in storage".

Here's a start for you:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?ur...torage&x=0&y=0

--

You can usually find some old sunset books on this sort of thing at half
price books. Millions of these books were sold at one time or another. Lots
of pictures, illustrations, instructions, etc.





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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Seems pretty simple. Just build several plywood boxes (in your garage)
3' wide by 2' deep by 5' tall, no backs or fronts. Don't worry about
the fact that where they join they will have double thickness. The
build and move convenience of smaller pieces out weighs the loss of a
few inches in storage space.

Set them on the floor against the wall where you want the storage. For
a nicer look, set them on top of a 3" high box on the floor that is
only 21" deep so you have a 3 x 3 toe kick space. Screw them to each
other and the wall (maybe braces across the back to help attach.

Build a face frame(s), one large piece if possible or each separate,
just the biggest pieces you can get into the room from your shop.
Smaller drawers at the top, progressively bigger toward the bottom,
maybe one 6" deep, one 9" deep and the rest a full foot. OK to split
some of the 3' wide sections in half on smaller drawers if you want.

Use good drawer slides mounted to the sides of the boxes. Build boxes
from Baltic Birch ply. Plan face frame size for overlay drawer faces.
Make the drawer faces overlay by 1/2" all around and even gaps between
drawers.

At the top either run the top face frame into the ceiling (if it is
somewhere close) or drop a piece of 3/4 play, edged with solid wood
overhanging 1 1/2"

On Dec 9, 7:55*am, Kevin wrote:
Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. *The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. *This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. *My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). *Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.

Many thanks in advance!

Kevin


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Kevin wrote:
....

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). ...


Others addressed the question asked; I'll tackle the other
concern--namely are you sure the attic floor/ceiling below joists are up
to this concentrated load you're proposing? That sounds like the
potential for quite a lot of weight.


--


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Dec 9, 7:55*am, Kevin wrote:

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. *The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep


For 5' tall, you'll have sidewalls of 3/4" plywood; that's plenty to
support screwed-in metal drawer slides. For fine furniture,
there'd be dust panels separating the drawers, but you can
probably omit them, EXCEPT for one near midheight to keep
the case from bowing. This can just be a stick notched
to the right spacing,

A back to prevent racking can be 1/4" plywood, or even an X-brace
or three (the 9' width implies at least three banks of drawers).
Some kind of apron around the base will keep it rectangular on
the bottom, and a lid will keep it rectangular on top; my preference
for the lid would be dadoed 3/4" plywood, but if there won't
be anything on top you could use lighter material.

Like any built-in cabinets, you'll possibly need to shim the
base to follow any floor curvature. Because this is in an attic,
your cutting /fitting will be handled elsewhere (where the
sawdust doesn't annoy), and the parts will be carried
up one-at-a-time. A good big framing square and a level
are required for assembly.

It's amazingly hard to hand-dovetail plywood. Do the drawers
by a standard design of some sort, or even get a cabinet shop
to build 'em for you. For really heavy drawers, bolts/T nuts might
be a good way to attach the slides.
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


Kevin wrote:

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space
I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep

==================================

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.

The cabinet structure you are contemplating will have significant
weight.

The above are mutually exclusive.

Might want to go on down to the Home Depot and look at wire basket
storage systems normally used for closets.

Limit the attic storage to light weight things.

Lew



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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Kevin wrote:

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space
I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep

==================================

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.

The cabinet structure you are contemplating will have significant
weight.

The above are mutually exclusive.

Might want to go on down to the Home Depot and look at wire basket
storage systems normally used for closets.

Limit the attic storage to light weight things.


Depends on the attic. The house I grew up in had 2x8 ceiling joists on 16"
centers in the "new" attic and in the "old" attic I don't recall what they
were but they looked more like something that belonged on a Napoleonic
warship.

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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.


You could be correct, particularly if they are factory built roof
trusses, but then the rat runs and lateral bracing should give them
away, making it doubtful there would be room for a finished space, but ....

Certainly worth checking, indeed ...

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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"Swingman" wrote in message
news
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.



Curious to know: Just how much weight can or should be placed on 2x4s
configured like that??? Recently my new neighbor, who just moved in,
was walking around in his attic and stepped off of one of the beams
and fell through the floor landing in the kitchen!

I mentioned to him that he was going to look back on that someday and laugh,
but he wasn't yet to that point...

Bill






You could be correct, particularly if they are factory built roof trusses,
but then the rat runs and lateral bracing should give them away, making it
doubtful there would be room for a finished space, but ....

Certainly worth checking, indeed ...

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Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)





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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Bill wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
news
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.



Curious to know: Just how much weight can or should be placed on 2x4s
configured like that??? Recently my new neighbor, who just moved in,
was walking around in his attic and stepped off of one of the beams
and fell through the floor landing in the kitchen!


Sounds like he fell through the drywall on the ceiling, and it won't
hold your tool box in some houses.

Tell him not to worry, he's probably ranks only somewhere in the
millions of all the folks who have done that.

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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
news
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Time for a reality check.

Those attic "floor" beams are probably 2x4s.



Curious to know: Just how much weight can or should be placed on 2x4s
configured like that??? Recently my new neighbor, who just moved in,
was walking around in his attic and stepped off of one of the beams
and fell through the floor landing in the kitchen!


Sounds like he fell through the drywall on the ceiling, and it won't hold
your tool box in some houses.

Tell him not to worry, he's probably ranks only somewhere in the millions
of all the folks who have done that.



It came up like this. I went over to introduce myself having
moved in just a few weeks before he did. And we were going through our
"new homeowner checklists" with each other; I was explaining that I was sort
of
leery about walking around in my attic because I was concerned about falling
through--and then he pointed to a pile of broken drywall!! I mentioned
that
it was really sort of funny when you stop to think about it and that he and
his wife
would laugh about it someday..but like I said earlier, he wasn't to that
point yet... ; )
I won't laugh too loud, as I'm only 1 step away from falling through my
ceiling too.





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KarlC@ (the obvious)



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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Bill wrote:

I won't laugh too loud, as I'm only 1 step away from falling through my
ceiling too.


FWIW, that's generally an inadvertent half a step ...


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Great advice all, and I now realize my use of the word "attic" was
misleading. It's actually a third-floor living space, complete with
full bath, bedroom, etc. so I think the floor will be strong enough.

Good to know that plywood boxes will serve as adequate frames for the
drawers. One question: I like the idea of face frames on the boxes
with an overlay drawer front, but won't a face frame prohibit me from
mounting the drawers slides directly to the sides of the plywood
boxes? Will I need to attach the slides to boards that are screwed/
glued to the insides of the boxes so that the slides will clear the
face frame?

Thanks!

Kevin
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Kevin wrote:
Great advice all, and I now realize my use of the word "attic" was
misleading. It's actually a third-floor living space, complete with
full bath, bedroom, etc. so I think the floor will be strong enough.

Good to know that plywood boxes will serve as adequate frames for the
drawers. One question: I like the idea of face frames on the boxes
with an overlay drawer front, but won't a face frame prohibit me from
mounting the drawers slides directly to the sides of the plywood
boxes? Will I need to attach the slides to boards that are screwed/
glued to the insides of the boxes so that the slides will clear the
face frame?


You should have a choice with most modern drawers.

You can attach them to the FF at the front, and with a special bracket
on the back wall of the cabinet.

Or,

You can attach the slide to a "spacer" that brings the slide flush with
the FF, and then attach the slide and the spacer to the cabinet side.

I prefer the latter because it produces a quieter end result, and is
much easier to install, level etc.

Tip: design your FF width so that when they are applied to the front of
the casework sides, the distance between the inside edge of the FF, and
the inside face of the cabinet side, is a distance that is equal in
thickness to readily available "spacer" material, ie, 3/4" or 1/2" plywood.

I would NOT glue drawer slide spacers to the sides of the cabinets. I
like to first install them with brads, insert the drawers, make any
adjustment necessary, then, and only then, screw them to the sides with
screws when all the drawers are properly fit.

By first securing them with brads, you can easily tap the top or bottom
of the spacers with a hammer, to make any adjustments necessary before
you permanently screw them in.

Be careful that you don't use a brad long enough to go through exposed
cabinet sides ... I've installed literally hundreds of cabinets and
still do this on occasion!!

--
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Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Wed, 09 Dec 2009 17:04:11 -0800, Kevin wrote:

Great advice all, and I now realize my use of the word "attic" was
misleading. It's actually a third-floor living space, complete with
full bath, bedroom, etc. so I think the floor will be strong enough.


You still might want to check the floor load rating. If you can't
determine the actual figure, find the minimum requirements of the
applicable building code and use that. Better safe than sorry.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 07:55:25 -0800 (PST), Kevin
wrote:

Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.

Many thanks in advance!

Kevin


Large drawers can be a problem, and will add a lot of weight in your
attic. You might take a look how the Shakers made built-ins. One
design in Lexington KY has an attic filled with drawers under a
skylight--I saw it in person and it's wonderful.

From a practical standpoint, I prefer open shelves and Rubbermaid
lidded plastic totes to keep out moisture/insects.
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Again, thanks for all of the thoughtful responses! Great tips
Swingman, I will certainly apply those. After this discussion, I
think I will reduce the size of the box of drawers so that overloading
the floor joists is not an issue. Instead, I think I will build
several smaller units around the space, including some in the knee
wall that runs along two sides (and yes, dealing with any load-
supporting-knee-wall issues, if they arise!).

Kevin
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Again, thanks for all of the thoughtful responses! Great tips
Swingman, I will certainly apply those. After this discussion, I
think I will reduce the size of the box of drawers so that overloading
the floor joists is not an issue. Instead, I think I will build
several smaller units around the space, including some in the knee
wall that runs along two sides (and yes, dealing with any load-
supporting-knee-wall issues, if they arise!).

Kevin
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Again, thanks for all of the thoughtful responses! Great tips
Swingman, I will certainly apply those. After this discussion, I
think I will reduce the size of the box of drawers so that overloading
the floor joists is not an issue. Instead, I think I will build
several smaller units around the space, including some in the knee
wall that runs along two sides (and yes, dealing with any load-
supporting-knee-wall issues, if they arise!).

Kevin


Well, maybe and maybe not. Swingman's advice is solid, but here's another
thought. Floor joists can handle the most weight at the points nearest to
where they attach to the wall. What may be a lot of load in the center of a
room may well be a very tolerable load close to the wall. It would be worth
your time to do a little web research on the load bearing capability of the
dimensional lumber that your floor joists are made from. A quick
conversation with an architect or a structural engineer would probably be
very enlightening. As well, your weight is going to be spread across the
width of your cabinet. That means that the weight per square foot will be
quite a bit less than the weight of the cabinet. You might be perfectly ok
with your original plan.

--

-Mike-





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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:32:40 -0500, the infamous "Lee Michaels"
scrawled the following:


"Swingman" wrote in message
m...
Kevin wrote:
Hi all,

I have a finished attic and I am looking to make it more useful by
building a storage unit that is made up of large drawers. The space I
want to fill is about 9' wide x 5' tall x 2' deep and I hope to end up
with about 12-15 drawers of various sizes, but most will be about 3
feet wide and 1 foot high. This is essentially a big dresser, but
this is not furniture I'm building, so although functionality is
important, great beauty is not. My other concern is that the frame/
carcass be strong enough to support fully loaded drawers (with
appropriately rated slides). Does anyone know of a plan out there on
the web or in a book that might fit the bill? My searching for the
last few days has not turned up anything. I have found many plans for
dressers, etc, but nothing that matches the size or style (or I should
say, lack of style) of this project.


There is plenty of information around. What you need to google is books on
"built-in storage".

Here's a start for you:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?ur...torage&x=0&y=0

--

You can usually find some old sunset books on this sort of thing at half
price books. Millions of these books were sold at one time or another. Lots
of pictures, illustrations, instructions, etc.


Kevin, ditto their suggestion about books, but try your local library
first, so you won't have to buy them all.

I personally feel that the Taunton books are best, but the Taunton
Idea Books really suck, and their For Pros By Pros books are probably
insufficient for your needs.

eBay and Amazon both have used books for dirt cheap prices.

--
To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen
to what the world tells you you ought to prefer,
is to have kept your soul alive.
-- Robert Louis Stevenson
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

What he said.

Nice answer.

On Dec 9, 6:23*pm, Swingman wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Great advice all, and I now realize my use of the word "attic" was
misleading. *It's actually a third-floor living space, complete with
full bath, bedroom, etc. so I think the floor will be strong enough.


Good to know that plywood boxes will serve as adequate frames for the
drawers. *One question: I like the idea of face frames on the boxes
with an overlay drawer front, but won't a face frame prohibit me from
mounting the drawers slides directly to the sides of the plywood
boxes? *Will I need to attach the slides to boards that are screwed/
glued to the insides of the boxes so that the slides will clear the
face frame?


You should have a choice with most modern drawers.

You can attach them to the FF at the front, and with a special bracket
on the back wall of the cabinet.

Or,

You can attach the slide to a "spacer" that brings the slide flush with
the FF, and then attach the slide and the spacer to the cabinet side.

I prefer the latter because it produces a quieter end result, and is
much easier to install, level etc.

Tip: design your FF width so that when they are applied to the front of
the casework sides, *the distance between the inside edge of the FF, and
the inside face of the cabinet side, is a distance that is equal in
thickness to readily available "spacer" material, ie, 3/4" or 1/2" plywood.

I would NOT glue drawer slide spacers to the sides of the cabinets. I
like to first install them with brads, insert the drawers, make any
adjustment necessary, then, and only then, screw them to the sides with
screws when all the drawers are properly fit.

By first securing them with brads, you can easily tap the top or bottom
of the spacers with a hammer, to make any adjustments necessary before
you permanently screw them in.

Be careful that you don't use a brad long enough to go through exposed
cabinet sides ... I've installed literally hundreds of cabinets and
still do this on occasion!! *

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

One more tip (maybe obvious).

Build the drawer boxes as a box and apply the drawer faces after the
fact. Install all the drawer boxes in the case and get the slides
adjusted and working well BEFORE adding the drawer fronts. Then add
the drawer fronts to the boxes so it is easy to get them all nice and
square and evenly spaced. I use double sided tape and then screws from
inside.


On Dec 9, 6:23*pm, Swingman wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Great advice all, and I now realize my use of the word "attic" was
misleading. *It's actually a third-floor living space, complete with
full bath, bedroom, etc. so I think the floor will be strong enough.


Good to know that plywood boxes will serve as adequate frames for the
drawers. *One question: I like the idea of face frames on the boxes
with an overlay drawer front, but won't a face frame prohibit me from
mounting the drawers slides directly to the sides of the plywood
boxes? *Will I need to attach the slides to boards that are screwed/
glued to the insides of the boxes so that the slides will clear the
face frame?


You should have a choice with most modern drawers.

You can attach them to the FF at the front, and with a special bracket
on the back wall of the cabinet.

Or,

You can attach the slide to a "spacer" that brings the slide flush with
the FF, and then attach the slide and the spacer to the cabinet side.

I prefer the latter because it produces a quieter end result, and is
much easier to install, level etc.

Tip: design your FF width so that when they are applied to the front of
the casework sides, *the distance between the inside edge of the FF, and
the inside face of the cabinet side, is a distance that is equal in
thickness to readily available "spacer" material, ie, 3/4" or 1/2" plywood.

I would NOT glue drawer slide spacers to the sides of the cabinets. I
like to first install them with brads, insert the drawers, make any
adjustment necessary, then, and only then, screw them to the sides with
screws when all the drawers are properly fit.

By first securing them with brads, you can easily tap the top or bottom
of the spacers with a hammer, to make any adjustments necessary before
you permanently screw them in.

Be careful that you don't use a brad long enough to go through exposed
cabinet sides ... I've installed literally hundreds of cabinets and
still do this on occasion!! *

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass? - Now withTIPS!

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
One more tip (maybe obvious).

Build the drawer boxes as a box and apply the drawer faces after the
fact. Install all the drawer boxes in the case and get the slides
adjusted and working well BEFORE adding the drawer fronts. Then add
the drawer fronts to the boxes so it is easy to get them all nice and
square and evenly spaced. I use double sided tape and then screws from
inside.


Good one ... and here's a couple mo

~ When you make your spacers for attaching the slides to the sides of
the cabinet, "batch cut" them so they're uniform width and length, AND,
most importantly, take pains in cutting the ends of the spacers as
perfectly "square" as possible (I cut mine on a TS sled. That way, when
you butt them up to the face frame during installation, they will
already be square to the face frame, and much easier to hold in place
with one hand while you use the brad nailer with the other.

~ Also, a shop/site made jig like this comes in handy for attaching the
slides to the spacers before you even get near the cabinets:

http://picasaweb.google.com/karlcail...rawerSlideJig#

This is something that you rarely see a trim carpenter without on a job
site in this neck of the woods. Down through the years I have these
things made for every possible thickness of spacer, and every type of
drawer slide imaginable, and usually have some small spacer material of
different thickness to "tune" the jig up if need be on site (you can see
those "tuneup spacers" in the photos) if you zoom in. I generally have
drawer slide "shucking party" before I ever leave the shop, and mount
all the drawer slides on their spacers, paired up and ready to install
when I get to the job site.

~ Also, drill and countersink the screw holes in the spacers before you
try to install the slide pairs ... that way they won't move around when
you sink the screws in that tight space ... and watch those screw
lengths, so you don't screw through the finished side of a cabinet!
DAMHIKT, once again!

Actually, I carry my cabinet "makeup kit" around with me in the truck so
that I can powder the noses of those types of screwups and hide the
pimples... it ain't like I don't do it often enough.

--
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass? - Now with TIPS!

Subject

Whoever suggested building essentially open boxes to accept covered
Rubbermaid containers had a winner, IMHO.

Drawers are heavy, expensive, and usually require expensive hardware,
take up valuable storage space, and are awkward at best.

In addition, they do not provide sealed storage which is desirable
for an inactive storage area.

Add a curtain to cover the bin and you would think we were talking
about storage on a boatgrin.

Lew







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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass? - Now withTIPS!

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Subject

Whoever suggested building essentially open boxes to accept covered
Rubbermaid containers had a winner, IMHO.

Drawers are heavy, expensive, and usually require expensive hardware,
take up valuable storage space, and are awkward at best.

In addition, they do not provide sealed storage which is desirable
for an inactive storage area.

Add a curtain to cover the bin and you would think we were talking
about storage on a boatgrin.


Yabbut, but the mess when you send those things through the planer ....


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"Larry Jaques" wrote

eBay and Amazon both have used books for dirt cheap prices.

--

Just a comment about Amazon.

I am working on a project that needed some books by certain authors. No
subsitutes would work. I looked them up everywhere and all the books except
one were only available used. And one book only became available the third
time I looked. I ordered them last week. The last one arrived today. I had
to pay $4 shipping for each one. But I got them in. I am all set.

Also, the reviews on amazon were very good to help determine if these books
would work.





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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
One more tip (maybe obvious).

Build the drawer boxes as a box and apply the drawer faces after
the
fact. Install all the drawer boxes in the case and get the
slides
adjusted and working well BEFORE adding the drawer fronts. Then
add
the drawer fronts to the boxes so it is easy to get them all
nice and
square and evenly spaced. I use double sided tape and then
screws from
inside.


For storage drawers, I'd also consider making them without any
type of stop to prevent withdrawal. This would be particularly
handy for the upper ones, where you might not be able to see
what's inside. If the sides of the drawers were within a smidgeon
of the case opening, the drawer faces would still align, but they
could be pulled out and placed upon a table for easy access.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:27:09 -0500, the infamous "Lee Michaels"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote

eBay and Amazon both have used books for dirt cheap prices.

--

Just a comment about Amazon.

I am working on a project that needed some books by certain authors. No
subsitutes would work. I looked them up everywhere and all the books except
one were only available used. And one book only became available the third
time I looked. I ordered them last week. The last one arrived today. I had
to pay $4 shipping for each one. But I got them in. I am all set.

Also, the reviews on amazon were very good to help determine if these books
would work.


Yeah, they have helped me previously, too. I also go to www.ISBN.nu
for books. They and www.ABEBOOKS.com sometimes have authors I don't
find in abundance (or cheap enough on Amazone or eBay. And I just
_love_ buying a once-read book for a tenth of the cover price. I don't
mind spending a penny plus $3.99 shipping for the occasional NEW book
from Amazon, either.

--
To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen
to what the world tells you you ought to prefer,
is to have kept your soul alive.
-- Robert Louis Stevenson
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Fantatstic tips! I like the jig Swingman, I will certainly whip up
one of these once I get my slides. Which leads me to my next
question: Which side-mount, full-extension, 100 lbs+-rated slides do
folks like? My searching has led me to many brands (KV, Accuride,
Blum) but was wondering if anyone had a favorite. And, thanks again!

Kevin


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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Kevin wrote:
Fantatstic tips! I like the jig Swingman, I will certainly whip up
one of these once I get my slides. Which leads me to my next
question: Which side-mount, full-extension, 100 lbs+-rated slides do
folks like? My searching has led me to many brands (KV, Accuride,
Blum) but was wondering if anyone had a favorite. And, thanks again!


When it comes to side mount, I've always had excellent results with KV.
Excellent product at a good price.

--
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

With regards to side-mount slides, I've noticed that many slides can
be used with a maximum drawer width of 24". (I understand that the
wider the drawer, the more prone it is to racking). I had originally
planned to build some drawers that were about 36" wide, 24" deep, and
10" high, and the fact that they are wider than they are deep seems to
put them in the category of "lateral file drawers". There are
"lateral file drawer" slides available (strong and expensive) but
these seem to be overkill since my drawers will not be carrying 100s
of lbs of paper, and they also don't have the extreme aspect ratio
(very wide and very shallow) that a typical lateral file drawer has.
Has anyone built drawers of the size I am considering and used
standard side-mount drawer slides (such as the KV 8500 series)?

As always, thanks!

Kevin

P.S. Lew, your solution using Rubbermaid bins is the one I have been
using so far (GMTA!). The "attic" as I call it is a fairly nice
living space, so I'm hoping to improve the looks of my storage by
installing drawers.
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

Kevin wrote:
With regards to side-mount slides, I've noticed that many slides can
be used with a maximum drawer width of 24". (I understand that the
wider the drawer, the more prone it is to racking). I had originally
planned to build some drawers that were about 36" wide, 24" deep, and
10" high, and the fact that they are wider than they are deep seems to
put them in the category of "lateral file drawers". There are
"lateral file drawer" slides available (strong and expensive) but
these seem to be overkill since my drawers will not be carrying 100s
of lbs of paper, and they also don't have the extreme aspect ratio
(very wide and very shallow) that a typical lateral file drawer has.
Has anyone built drawers of the size I am considering and used
standard side-mount drawer slides (such as the KV 8500 series)?

....

Actually, I've done so (in strict violation of manufacturers'
instructions as you note so I'm sure there will be a number of posters
just waiting to pounce given the outrage over simply using a 130V light
bulb... but, I'll venture forth anyway ) -- I've done two things:

First, simply ignored the prohibition and went ahead. No serious
problems experienced up to about the 36" width, again, in a fairly
lightly loaded application (sweaters, that sort of thing). This does
assume what I'd call the "rational user"; I'd not try it in commercial
work or in a rental, for example. IOW, that was for own use where know
the limitations.

Alternatively, in a set of fairly heavily loaded drawers in a storage
area under a set of stairs I mounted one of the same slides flatwise on
the bottom of the drawer as a guide. It's a little picky getting it
aligned "just right" but it worked as intended. Those drawers were
almost 48". They were adequate enough that I'd have no trouble doing
that on "boughten work".

That was ages ago before the advent of online suppliers that are so easy
to get specialty parts as are these days; probably one could order in
some of the wood/plastic "t-bar" center alignment kits to serve the
purpose much more cheaply. Then again, there's always the homemade
sliding dovetail guide that would work since it doesn't need to carry
the load at all but serve as alignment it can be fairly loose and still
control the wracking that would cause the slides themselves to bind.

--
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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

dpb wrote:
Kevin wrote:
With regards to side-mount slides, I've noticed that many slides can
be used with a maximum drawer width of 24". (I understand that the
wider the drawer, the more prone it is to racking). I had originally
planned to build some drawers that were about 36" wide, 24" deep, and
10" high, and the fact that they are wider than they are deep seems to
put them in the category of "lateral file drawers". There are
"lateral file drawer" slides available (strong and expensive) but
these seem to be overkill since my drawers will not be carrying 100s
of lbs of paper, and they also don't have the extreme aspect ratio
(very wide and very shallow) that a typical lateral file drawer has.
Has anyone built drawers of the size I am considering and used
standard side-mount drawer slides (such as the KV 8500 series)?



purpose much more cheaply. Then again, there's always the homemade
sliding dovetail guide that would work since it doesn't need to carry
the load at all but serve as alignment it can be fairly loose and still
control the wracking that would cause the slides themselves to bind.


This is an excellent method to overcome the limitation Kevin is
concerned about, and one I've used with extra wide drawers. Although the
drawer pictured shown below is much smaller, and the middle, shop made
dovetail runner was the only runner, the method is exactly the same:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/DrawerOvl.jpg

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Default Large wall of drawers: How to build frame/carcass?

On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 10:02:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous Kevin
scrawled the following:

With regards to side-mount slides, I've noticed that many slides can
be used with a maximum drawer width of 24". (I understand that the
wider the drawer, the more prone it is to racking).


They are, Kevin. The house I moved into has a 43" wide wooden chest of
drawers without slides and they rack terribly. I have to rewax them 3
times a year or they stick badly when one drawer-side or the other
binds on the frame. That same racking tends to tear up slides.


I had originally
planned to build some drawers that were about 36" wide, 24" deep, and
10" high, and the fact that they are wider than they are deep seems to
put them in the category of "lateral file drawers". There are
"lateral file drawer" slides available (strong and expensive) but
these seem to be overkill since my drawers will not be carrying 100s


The weight rating on slides is the maximum they will carry and still
give you the rated number of openings/closings the mfgr states,
usually 50,000-75,000 cycles. With the exception of our favorite
drawers, most drawers won't be subject to that much use, so
overloading is tolerated much of the time.


of lbs of paper, and they also don't have the extreme aspect ratio
(very wide and very shallow) that a typical lateral file drawer has.
Has anyone built drawers of the size I am considering and used
standard side-mount drawer slides (such as the KV 8500 series)?


You might not use that much weight in them now, but later, it'll find
its way in there. (Murphy sez so.) Which means that sooner or later,
perhaps not until the next owner, the slides will fail and you'll have
to upgrade. Until then, though, it'll work just fine.

I haven't built any really wide drawers, but those I've seen have
always had a central stiffener, so build the bottom like a
raised-panel door, with stiffer bottom and smaller panels.


As always, thanks!

Kevin

P.S. Lew, your solution using Rubbermaid bins is the one I have been
using so far (GMTA!). The "attic" as I call it is a fairly nice
living space, so I'm hoping to improve the looks of my storage by
installing drawers.


5 nice thing about Rubbermaid bins:
1) everything stays dust-free in them.
2) they're lightweight for portability.
3) because they're portable, they go where the removed contents to, so
it's easier to put said contents back in them. Things don't get lost
nearly as easily.
4) it's quicker and cheaper to make storage this way.
5) contents are easily visible.

The only downside is that you might not find exact-size/shape
replacement "drawers" years later.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance


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On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 12:47:44 -0600, the infamous dpb
scrawled the following:

Kevin wrote:
With regards to side-mount slides, I've noticed that many slides can
be used with a maximum drawer width of 24". (I understand that the
wider the drawer, the more prone it is to racking). I had originally
planned to build some drawers that were about 36" wide, 24" deep, and
10" high, and the fact that they are wider than they are deep seems to
put them in the category of "lateral file drawers". There are
"lateral file drawer" slides available (strong and expensive) but
these seem to be overkill since my drawers will not be carrying 100s
of lbs of paper, and they also don't have the extreme aspect ratio
(very wide and very shallow) that a typical lateral file drawer has.
Has anyone built drawers of the size I am considering and used
standard side-mount drawer slides (such as the KV 8500 series)?

...

Actually, I've done so (in strict violation of manufacturers'
instructions as you note so I'm sure there will be a number of posters
just waiting to pounce given the outrage over simply using a 130V light
bulb... but, I'll venture forth anyway ) -- I've done two things:

First, simply ignored the prohibition and went ahead. No serious


OhmyCrom! You're probably one of those types who pulls the tags off
pillows and mattresses, too, aren't you? Mercy me!

--snip of the rest of a good post--

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance
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