Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of
the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to
finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the
parts are fitting nicely and others aren't.

So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it
apart.

Puckdropper

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Dec 6, 9:15*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Just brought in my latest woodworking project. *(Still smells like some of
the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) *Before taking it apart to
finish it, I marked some parts and not others. *As a result, some of the
parts are fitting nicely and others aren't.

So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it
apart.

Puckdropper

As I am finishing an entertainment center, I know what you mean. All
of the drawer trim, shelf trim, and top trim is in a different finish.
The last I counted, it was at 92 pieces and most are cut to fit. Not
fun when you forgot to mark any of the shelf trim. I think it would be
faster to just redo it.

Allen

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

Subject

A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop.

Lew

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Dec 8, 1:37*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Subject

A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop.

Lew

I actually still use a pencil. The drawer trim I could mark on the
underside with a drawer number and location and the top trim I could
mark the location on the underside as well. The shelf trim is seen on
three sides and I was going to mark it on the back with a shelf number
and location, but my memory faded and I gathered everything up and put
it away. Then I went "Doh". I spent today getting at least 2 of the 5
shelves sorted out. It took me less time to cut them all out the first
time around......Oh well

Allen

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

allen476 wrote in news:0f22d2ce-cc34-4c9a-aecf-
:

On Dec 8, 1:37*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Subject

A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop.

Lew

I actually still use a pencil.

*snip*


Allen

Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you
want to keep the marks after finishing. Incidentally, ink pen ink and
permanent marker also washes off easily with certain finishes.

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On 07 Dec 2009 02:15:17 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of
the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to
finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the
parts are fitting nicely and others aren't.

So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it
apart.

No point. It's well documented that at least one part will always
change dimensions as soon as glue is applied to it. No one quite
understands how.


-Kevin

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Puckdropper" wrote:

Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if
you
want to keep the marks after finishing.

Precisely why I use chalk.

Good for temporary marks such as witness marks for glue-ups or
assemblies, marking the side of a board you do not want to plane,
sand, etc.

Permanent marking is a whole different ball of wax.

Lew

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was
an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2
pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little
workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a
drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
On 07 Dec 2009 02:15:17 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of
the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to
finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the
parts are fitting nicely and others aren't.

So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it
apart.

No point. It's well documented that at least one part will always
change dimensions as soon as glue is applied to it. No one quite
understands how.


that was what I was thinking. I never disassemble a project to finish it
unless the parts are attached with hinges or slides. I may pre stain or
finish panels in a door panel prior to glue up however.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

wrote:

allen476 wrote in news:0f22d2ce-cc34-4c9a-aecf-
:

On Dec 8, 1:37�pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Subject

A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop.

Lew

I actually still use a pencil.

*snip*


Allen

Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you
want to keep the marks after finishing. Incidentally, ink pen ink and
permanent marker also washes off easily with certain finishes.


Where possible, I mark parts where they won't be seen -- on the tenons or
the ends. On the edges of floating panels, etc. Most parts usually have
some edge covered by something else or in a non-visible area.

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
. ..

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was
an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2
pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little
workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a
drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well.

I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted on
the wall inside the shop door.

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.

--
To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen
to what the world tells you you ought to prefer,
is to have kept your soul alive.
-- Robert Louis Stevenson

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Snip

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.


I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine
natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Snip

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.


I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had
genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting
classes.

The white ones are the good ones, at least in the sense that they erase
thoroughly, don't chew up the paper too much, and don't seem to rot.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Leon" wrote:

I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had
genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting
classes.

Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual
erasers exist.

Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or
ink.

Available from any decent drafting supply house.

Add an erasing shield and you are good to go.

Lew

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had
genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting
classes.

Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual
erasers exist.

Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or
ink.

Available from any decent drafting supply house.

Add an erasing shield and you are good to go.

OMG! This is soooo retro, dude!!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
.. .

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was
an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2
pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little
workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a
drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well.

I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted
on
the wall inside the shop door.

I'm better than you, Larry. When my voltage drops below 95vac in
the shop, I just gnaw the wood off my pencils to sharpen them even
MORE Neander than you. grin



And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers
become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I
get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.

Oh. . . you make mistakes and need an eraser????? I get mine
without, since I never make mistakes. grin

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Larry Jaques" wrote:

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers
become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I
get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.
-------------------------------

Erasers?

What's an ERASER?

In a shop, it's an old piece of 120grit garnet paper.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote:

I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it
had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking
drafting classes.

Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even
manual erasers exist.

Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white
plastic or ink.

Available from any decent drafting supply house.

Add an erasing shield and you are good to go.

Also, be sure to wear goggles. grin

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:33:33 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote:

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get
a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.
-------------------------------

Erasers?

What's an ERASER?

Sorry, Lew. I forgot that there were some people out there who have
never made a mistake. Please accept my sincere regrets for my fox
****.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 12:12:12 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Snip

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.


I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine
natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes.

Nah, I'm just a wannabe pencil connasewer, mon. Yeah, soft green or
white erasers rock. Who knows what they're made of.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

Larry Jaques" wrote:

Sorry, Lew. I forgot that there were some people out there who have
never made a mistake. Please accept my sincere regrets for my fox
****.
---------------------------

For a minute there, I thought you forgot.

Lew

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Snip

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.


I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine
natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes.


White plastic is still the best. You can get them in a pen type thing that
fits well in an apron pocket. At work, my upper apron pocket always contains
two scales, a pen, mechanical pencil and an eraser.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

wrote:

Drafting supplies are located one aisle over from buggy whips, towards
the back of the store.
-------------------------------------------
Sounds like you live in a drafting supply house challenged area.

Have one within 5 miles of the front door.


Same here though I haven't used anything but CAD in years.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

CW wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Snip

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get
a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.


I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had
genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting
classes.


White plastic is still the best. You can get them in a pen type thing
that fits well in an apron pocket. At work, my upper apron pocket
always contains two scales, a pen, mechanical pencil and an eraser.

And Staedtler has a nice little battery powered electric that you can get at
Staples for 10 bucks.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Dec 6, 9:15*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"
be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. Puckdropper

And, let me add "Before you cut the parts" as well.

I was reminded of this lesson AFTER cutting the rabbet for the
shelving backer on the 68 inch tall sides and had to make new parts.
Fortunately it was a shop storage cabinet

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:08:58 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
. ..

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was
an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2
pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little
workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a
drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well.

I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted
on
the wall inside the shop door.

I'm better than you, Larry. When my voltage drops below 95vac in
the shop, I just gnaw the wood off my pencils to sharpen them even
MORE Neander than you. grin

Yeah, well I ain't got no lead mouth, neither. So there!


And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers
become
calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I
get a
box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.

Oh. . . you make mistakes and need an eraser????? I get mine
without, since I never make mistakes. grin

WE ARE NOT WORTHY! WE ARE NOT WORTHY! WE ARE NOT WORTHY!
bow, scrape, gag

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

J. Clarke wrote:

Artists use computers for some purposes but Corel Painter is still a poor
substitute for oils and canvas.

Ever got to play with Kai Krauss's Painter? Has a selection of virtual
brushes of real world painter's brushes - sable, fan, oil, watercolor,
stencil even pinstriping brush which behave very much like the real
thing once you get the hang of it. AND you can do things with virtual
mediums which you CAN NOT do with real world mediums - like combining
the characteristics of water color and oil paint. Combine the many
features of this app with the fact that you can save things along the
way and UNDO mistakes - and there's much to be said for working with
digital mediums.

Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
 

On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:39:14 -0800, the infamous charlie b
scrawled the following:

J. Clarke wrote:

Artists use computers for some purposes but Corel Painter is still a poor
substitute for oils and canvas.

Ever got to play with Kai Krauss's Painter? Has a selection of virtual
brushes of real world painter's brushes - sable, fan, oil, watercolor,
stencil even pinstriping brush which behave very much like the real
thing once you get the hang of it. AND you can do things with virtual
mediums which you CAN NOT do with real world mediums - like combining
the characteristics of water color and oil paint. Combine the many
features of this app with the fact that you can save things along the
way and UNDO mistakes - and there's much to be said for working with
digital mediums.

I got (and played with) Expression, then got Painter and never really
did anything with it, being steered by client requests. 'Twas fun to
toy with, though.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance