Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.

I have a table saw and a band saw.

Thanks,

Aaron

In article , Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.

I have a table saw and a band saw.

If the table of your bandsaw can be tilted 45 degrees from the horizontal,
cutting the triangular profile is trivial.

Cutting a quarter-round profile cannot be done in a single operation, but you
can get there with a series of steps, using the bandsaw. Draw the profile you
want on the end of the board, then make straight cuts at various tilt angles
to approximate that profile. Finally, smooth it with hand tools such as a
plane, spokeshave, drawknife, or file (or a combination of those).

There is no safe way to do this on the table saw.

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x
profile.
I have a table saw and a band saw.

Get a 3" piece of PVC and cut it in half lenghwise. Duct tape it to your
stock.

Feed the whole shebang through your table saw with the PVC against the
fence. Rotate the stock slightly and do it again. And again. etc.

Ultimately you'll have a 3" half-round. Cut in half.

I have no idea whether this will work.

In article ,
says...
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.

I have a table saw and a band saw.


Are you making some large 'trim' and don't need a specific profile? Because
you can make 3" cove molding OK, but not quarter round. Look up the methods
for making a cove cut with a table saw, basically you run the stock over the
blade at an angle. You could cove each side of the 3x3 stock then quarter it
on the bandsaw. I've done it on my radial arm saw and it works quite nicely.

--
Dennis

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round

C. Use a lathe
_________________

2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x
profile.

A. Tilt bandsaw table

B. (better IMO) Make an auxiliary table with a cradle of two pieces mounted
at 90 degrees to each other and 45 degrees to the table, use on either
bandsaw or table saw. On table saw, cut in two passes; i.e., depth at 1
1/2" or less, cut once, flip vertically, cut again.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"HeyBub" wrote in news:0K-
:

snip of unadulderated speculative BS)


I have no idea whether this will work.


It will work quite well if you are hoping to make a visit to the emergency
room with a PVC/wood stake through your liver.

Yet, again, your screamingly obvious absence of good sense or experience
fails to prevent you from posting.

In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.

B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.

C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Elrond Hubbard wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in news:0K-
:

snip of unadulderated speculative BS)


I have no idea whether this will work.


It will work quite well if you are hoping to make a visit to the
emergency room with a PVC/wood stake through your liver.

Yet, again, your screamingly obvious absence of good sense or
experience fails to prevent you from posting.

Heh! I bet you've never made a circular cut out on a table saw.

And I have a great deal of common sense; I figured out, on my own, that one
should not drink the pickle juice until all the pickles are gone. This
prevents being hit in the eye by a pickle. (Except for pickle slices of
course. No hazard there.)

Bet you didn't know that!

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH"
wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.

Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round. Seems to me that a
1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
No?
___________

B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.

Whoops, see below...
______________

C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Will too. He just has to glue up four pieces of 3x3 before turning

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH"
wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.

Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round.

No, you don't.

Seems to me that a
1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
No?

No.

On Sep 30, 9:03*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.

I have a table saw and a band saw.

Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.

Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. The trick
is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
square possible in the area to be wasted. Use the shim/tape to
stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. There are variations
on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
before you have an unexpected one.

R

In article , RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 30, 9:03=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profi=
le.

I have a table saw and a band saw.

Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.

Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would you
even consider doing this on a table saw instead?

Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. The trick
is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
square possible in the area to be wasted. Use the shim/tape to
stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. There are variations
on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
before you have an unexpected one.

See above.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH"
wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH"
wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.

Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of
wood 3/4 x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round.

No, you don't.

Right. I'm going to stop reading groups early in the AM.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would
you
even consider doing this on a table saw instead?

I have/had a long stored away moulding head for a tablesaw that would have
cut the quarter rounds that he's looking for. But, it's a scary tool and not
what I'd use if something else was available like a band saw to slice away
most of the corners of a quarter round.

dadiOH wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH"
wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.

Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round. Seems to me that a
1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
No?
___________

B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.

Whoops, see below...
______________

C. Use a lathe
Neither will that.

Will too. He just has to glue up four pieces of 3x3 before turning

Heh - this is getting pretty messy.

A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em from
a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90° corner.

I used a 1" round nose bit and took a photo about halfway through the
process. I just uploaded it to
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/DSCN1386.JPG (It's a sizable file, so
you may want to skip if you have a dial-up connection) so you can see
the chips flying.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Oct 1, 10:53*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
RicodJour wrote:


Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.

Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would you
even consider doing this on a table saw instead?

Someone had already mentioned how to do the 45 with a bandsaw. Why
would I want to chime in with a "me, too!"?

Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. *The trick
is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
square possible in the area to be wasted. *Use the shim/tape to
stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. *There are variations
on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
before you have an unexpected one.

See above.

See above what? You left out the best part - where you said, "There
is no safe way to do this on the table saw." - referring to cutting
the quarter round. If you see above I described one safe way to do
it. There are others.

I would not choose which tools and method to use until I knew what the
lumber was and what the machines were like. I'm not assuming the OP
has a Unisaw or a Laguna bandsaw - he could have Craftsman hobbyist
machines. You are allowed to assume anything you'd like. That's only
fair.

R

"Morris Dovey" wrote:

Heh - this is getting pretty messy.

A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em
from a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90°
corner.

Last time I needed a 3" quarter round for a mold, got a plywood
quarter round from Anderson International here in town.

They are on the web.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

Heh - this is getting pretty messy.

A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em
from a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90°
corner.

Last time I needed a 3" quarter round for a mold, got a plywood
quarter round from Anderson International here in town.

They are on the web.

That works too, but I'm willing to bet they charged more than the 22¢/ft
I paid Menards.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote:

That works too, but I'm willing to bet they charged more than the
22¢/ft I paid Menards.

You lose that one.G

It was from the reject pile and considered a donation to the boat
building project.

Lew

In article , RicodJour wrote:

You left out the best part - where you said, "There
is no safe way to do this on the table saw." - referring to cutting
the quarter round. If you see above I described one safe way to do
it.

You seem to have a rather loose definition of 'safe'.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

That works too, but I'm willing to bet they charged more than the
22¢/ft I paid Menards.

You lose that one.G

It was from the reject pile and considered a donation to the boat
building project.

An excellent gloat! (You suck)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Oct 1, 8:08*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:

1. Make a 3" quarter round, or

A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.



B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round

That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.



C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.


C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

In article , "Upscale" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would
you
even consider doing this on a table saw instead?

I have/had a long stored away moulding head for a tablesaw that would have
cut the quarter rounds that he's looking for. But, it's a scary tool and not
what I'd use if something else was available like a band saw to slice away
most of the corners of a quarter round.

A 3" radius molding head?! Yeah, I'd agree with your classification of that as
'a scary tool'.

I think I'd take about six cuts with the bandsaw, then finish with a plane or
a spokeshave.

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:

C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

"Morris Dovey" wrote:

An excellent gloat! (You suck)

Consider it a "Cast thy bread upon the water" moment for them.

Buy a LOT of Finnish birch from them, don't even think about shopping
it.

Lew

On Oct 1, 3:47*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

This method is not for the faint of heart...or anyone with a brain. g

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 1, 3:47=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 1, 8:08=3DA0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.

On Oct 1, 4:36*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article, DerbyDad03 wrote:

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.

It is not impossible. Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
the in and out feed with the rotation. Effecting this is left as an
exercise for the reader.

I wonder if the OP has a router...

R

"RicodJour" wrote:

It is not impossible. Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
the in and out feed with the rotation. Effecting this is left as an
exercise for the reader.

Think cam and a follower.

Lew

On Oct 1, 4:36*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:



On Oct 1, 3:47=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 1, 8:08=3DA0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.

Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? g

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:

C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apaerently not.

In article , RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article, DerbyDad03 wrote:

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.

It is not impossible.

Yes, it is.

Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
the in and out feed with the rotation. Effecting this is left as an
exercise for the reader.

That's not sufficient. Go back and re-read what I wrote about where the lathe
centers have to be.

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, DerbyDad03 wrote:



On Oct 1, 3:47=3DA0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
ups=3D
..com, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Oct 1, 8:08=3D3DA0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that bet=
ween
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To =
get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the l=
athe
centers right at one of the corners.

Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? g

You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to mount it at
a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy, but that
would leave a radius of less than 3".

In article , "CW" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:

C. Use a lathe

Neither will that.

Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. g

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apaerently not.


The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blocks in
a heartbeat.

On Oct 1, 10:44*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , RicodJour wrote:

On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article, DerbyDad03 wrote:

If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.

Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.

It is not impossible.

Yes, it is.

You're obviously in an argumentative mood.
Impossible means that it cannot be done.
This is not one of those situations.

Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
the in and out feed with the rotation. *Effecting this is left as an
exercise for the reader.

That's not sufficient. Go back and re-read what I wrote about where the lathe
centers have to be.

Fine, I did, and there was nothing there that I missed the first time
around. You've made up your mind that something that isn't
impossible, is, and then you snapped your mind shut - case closed.

The center of rotation has to be centered on the lathe, but that
doesn't mean the workpiece has to have its center centered. There are
a number of ways to accomplish that as well.

R

On Oct 1, 10:47*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
"CW" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apparently not.

The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blocks in
a heartbeat.

Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
blocks? It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
the workpiece, no?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jni6Qnth844
There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
eccentric chuck and making your own. The counterweights can be
attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
length.

Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
at one time? That doesn't sound impossible, is it?

Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
possible" setting. It makes communication easier.

R

Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? g

You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
mount it at
a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
but that
would leave a radius of less than 3".

Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. Mount on lathe at board
centers.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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On Oct 2, 12:18*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 1, 10:47*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

*"CW" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apparently not.

The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blocks in
a heartbeat.

Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
blocks? *It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
the workpiece, no?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jni6Qnth844
There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
eccentric chuck and making your own. *The counterweights can be
attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
length.

Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
at one time? *That doesn't sound impossible, is it?

Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
possible" setting. *It makes communication easier.

R

....and all I was trying to do was to add a little humor to the
thread...

On Oct 2, 12:59*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 2, 12:18*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 1, 10:47*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
*"CW" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message

OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. g

Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apparently not.

The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blocks in
a heartbeat.

Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
blocks? *It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
the workpiece, no?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jni6Qnth844
There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
eccentric chuck and making your own. *The counterweights can be
attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
length.

Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
at one time? *That doesn't sound impossible, is it?

Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
possible" setting. *It makes communication easier.


...and all I was trying to do was to add a little humor to the
thread...

I know. And all I was trying to do was to point out "impossible"
isn't in this situation...well, that and have a little fun poking
fun.

R

In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? g

You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
mount it at
a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
but that
would leave a radius of less than 3".

Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. Mount on lathe at board
centers.

And make sure you're not standing in front of it when you turn the lathe on,
'cause it's coming off.