I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more
than enough plans and ideas but one.

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

The shed plan is a standard gable style.

Ideas? Thoughts?

MJ

On 09/10/2009 12:35 PM, wrote:

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

I built my gable-end shed roof with a 10/12 pitch. This gave me storage
room above the rafters, which is accessible via a small opening in the
gable. I use the rafter area for storing long lumber and my spare set
of car wheels.

I think it boils down to whatever you like...as long as it's waterproof
and strong enough to take any required loads (do you have snow?) you're
golden.

Chris

In article ,
Chris Friesen wrote:

On 09/10/2009 12:35 PM, wrote:

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

I built my gable-end shed roof with a 10/12 pitch. This gave me storage
room above the rafters, which is accessible via a small opening in the
gable. I use the rafter area for storing long lumber and my spare set
of car wheels.

I think it boils down to whatever you like...as long as it's waterproof
and strong enough to take any required loads (do you have snow?) you're
golden.

Chris speaketh the truth in the last paragraph, I think. I'd just add
that it might make sense to take a gander at the roof of your house and
consider possibly doing something similar, or at the very least
harmonious. Not a hard and fast rule, of course, and maybe more a
question of roofing materials than pitch.

I do wish my shed (that I did not build) had more roof overhang than it
does. It would keep the siding material in better shape, and especially
help prevent water from getting into the padlock and causing grief
there. I also kind of wish there were a bit better ventilation;
something like a soffit vent or ridge vent or gable vent is a good idea
(screened, of course, to keep the critters on the correct side).

--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot

On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 22:59:18 -0400, Andrew Erickson
wrote:

In article ,
Chris Friesen wrote:

On 09/10/2009 12:35 PM, wrote:

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

I built my gable-end shed roof with a 10/12 pitch. This gave me storage
room above the rafters, which is accessible via a small opening in the
gable. I use the rafter area for storing long lumber and my spare set
of car wheels.

I think it boils down to whatever you like...as long as it's waterproof
and strong enough to take any required loads (do you have snow?) you're
golden.

Chris speaketh the truth in the last paragraph, I think. I'd just add
that it might make sense to take a gander at the roof of your house and
consider possibly doing something similar, or at the very least
harmonious. Not a hard and fast rule, of course, and maybe more a
question of roofing materials than pitch.

I do wish my shed (that I did not build) had more roof overhang than it
does. It would keep the siding material in better shape, and especially
help prevent water from getting into the padlock and causing grief
there. I also kind of wish there were a bit better ventilation;
something like a soffit vent or ridge vent or gable vent is a good idea
(screened, of course, to keep the critters on the correct side).

My 10 X 10 has a 15 X 15 roof and a 10.5.5 -12? (40 degree? pitch
with vented soffit and a full length ridge vent. The roof rafters are
10 footers. I have about 4 1/2 feet of height at the center of the
"attic" and about 2 feet at the "knee wall" on the one side. The roof
is offset, with about 4 feet overhang on one side and one end, and
one foot on the other. Makes "dry" storage under the one end and a
"porch" over the door.

Andrew Erickson wrote:
In article ,
Chris Friesen wrote:

On 09/10/2009 12:35 PM, wrote:

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.
I built my gable-end shed roof with a 10/12 pitch. This gave me storage
room above the rafters, which is accessible via a small opening in the
gable. I use the rafter area for storing long lumber and my spare set
of car wheels.

I think it boils down to whatever you like...as long as it's waterproof
and strong enough to take any required loads (do you have snow?) you're
golden.

Chris speaketh the truth in the last paragraph, I think. I'd just add
that it might make sense to take a gander at the roof of your house and
consider possibly doing something similar, or at the very least
harmonious. Not a hard and fast rule, of course, and maybe more a
question of roofing materials than pitch.

I do wish my shed (that I did not build) had more roof overhang than it
does. It would keep the siding material in better shape, and especially
help prevent water from getting into the padlock and causing grief
there. I also kind of wish there were a bit better ventilation;
something like a soffit vent or ridge vent or gable vent is a good idea
(screened, of course, to keep the critters on the correct side).


Ever about every 4 to 6 month, I take the oil can to the shed and
liberally oil the padlock. I squirting the oil into the workings of the
lock, turning it over to insure the oil gets to everything in the lock.

The oil seems to prevent the water getting into the padlock working
messing it up.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
The oil seems to prevent the water getting into the padlock working
messing it up.

Wouldn't it be a little easier just to use a weather proof or weather
resistant lock?

Upscale wrote:
"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
The oil seems to prevent the water getting into the padlock working
messing it up.

Wouldn't it be a little easier just to use a weather proof or weather
resistant lock?


But you would not get the oil running out of the lock down the shed door.

Seriously; even the weather resistant/proof locks need a little help
after hanging on the shed door for several years.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
Andrew Erickson wrote:

snip

I do wish my shed (that I did not build) had more roof overhang than
it does. It would keep the siding material in better shape, and
especially help prevent water from getting into the padlock and
causing grief there. I also kind of wish there were a bit better
ventilation; something like a soffit vent or ridge vent or gable vent
is a good idea (screened, of course, to keep the critters on the
correct side).


Ever about every 4 to 6 month, I take the oil can to the shed and
liberally oil the padlock. I squirting the oil into the workings of the
lock, turning it over to insure the oil gets to everything in the lock.

The oil seems to prevent the water getting into the padlock working
messing it up.

Get a piece of scrap rubber (a piece of an old tire intertube will work)
and attach it to the door covering the padlock.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sep 10, 11:35*am, "
wrote:

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

If you roof with asphalt, that's about one square. Roof
material is heavy enough you'll have a bit of a truss, not
just 2x4s from ridge to wall, so that 15" sets the brace
position (or less, if you want headroom). Steel roofing
is self-supporting, but might cost more.

If you want it aesthetic, try to match other roofs nearby.
In case of snow, steeper is better; in case of tree-droppings,
steeper is better. My shed needs broom-and-hose treatment
each fall.

whit3rd wrote:
On Sep 10, 11:35 am, "
wrote:
I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

If you roof with asphalt, that's about one square. Roof
material is heavy enough you'll have a bit of a truss, not
just 2x4s from ridge to wall, so that 15" sets the brace
position (or less, if you want headroom). Steel roofing
is self-supporting, but might cost more.

If you want it aesthetic, try to match other roofs nearby.
In case of snow, steeper is better; in case of tree-droppings,
steeper is better. My shed needs broom-and-hose treatment
each fall.

My next shed will have a gambrel roof. This gives more space for the
small equipment and storage for other things.

The nice thing about the gambrel roof is it is easy to get into that
storage space.

It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

8x12 lets you use full 4x8 sheets which makes life easier.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

8x12 lets you use full 4x8 sheets which makes life easier.

Lew


And for that matter, pitch the roof so it uses an even sheet or half
sheet.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

How about building your shed 9-1/2' tall. For the exterior walls, if
paneled, put a single 4X8 sheet at the top.... with its bottom edge
beveled 30 degrees. Under that panel, put a 1X2" drip edge, which
would be angled down 30 degrees. Under the drip edge, put a 1-1/2'
tall panel. If the lower edge of the exterior wall ever rots, you
only have to remove/repair the bottom section. That lower section and
drip edge looks nice, also. That's what I did with my shop, using
T1-11 siding.

Sonny

On Sep 10, 5:01*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

8x12 lets you use full 4x8 sheets which makes life easier.

There's only one rip, and no wasted wall sheathing, with an 8x10
shed. If that one rip is a deal breaker, I don't think the guy should
be building a shed.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Sep 10, 5:01 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

8x12 lets you use full 4x8 sheets which makes life easier.

There's only one rip, and no wasted wall sheathing, with an 8x10
shed. If that one rip is a deal breaker, I don't think the guy should
be building a shed.

Well.... you NEED a 5HP Saw Stop cabinet saw with 50" fence and a large
outfeed table, and an Oneida cyclone dust collector for that task.... it
could get expensive.

Using that as a reference point makes SWMBO feel a lot better about the 3 HP
Jet cabinet saw and 1.5 HP 2-bag dust collector.... or the new Porter Cable
circular saw. ;~)

John

On 09/10/2009 12:57 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Sep 10, 11:35 am, "
wrote:

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

If you roof with asphalt, that's about one square. Roof
material is heavy enough you'll have a bit of a truss, not
just 2x4s from ridge to wall, so that 15" sets the brace
position (or less, if you want headroom). Steel roofing
is self-supporting, but might cost more.

Not sure why you say you need a truss. There are lots of 8x12 sheds
around here with just 2x4s from ridge to wall (and rafters to keep the
sides from spreading out). Actually, my own shed doesn't even have a
ridge board, the spacing is maintained by the sheathing.

Chris

On Sep 10, 12:57*pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 09/10/2009 12:57 PM, whit3rd wrote:

On Sep 10, 11:35 am, "
wrote:

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof.

If you roof with asphalt, that's about one square. *Roof
material is heavy enough you'll have a bit of a truss, not
just 2x4s from ridge to wall,

Not sure why you say you need a truss. *There are lots of 8x12 sheds
around here with just 2x4s from ridge to wall (and rafters

I was thinking he'd not want rafters unless they were over head-
height,
but a useful shed might have only 4' or 5' walls. Ergo, trusses.
Nothing complicated, three or four sticks is enough.

wrote in message
...
I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more
than enough plans and ideas but one.

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

The shed plan is a standard gable style.

Ideas? Thoughts?

MJ


What ever you spend a few dollars more and go with use radiant barrier
decking, silver side down. It "will" keep the shed and its contents cooler
in the summer.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more

What ever you spend a few dollars more and go with use radiant barrier
decking, silver side down. It "will" keep the shed and its contents
cooler in the summer.


Geeeez Translation,,

What ever you go with, spend a few extra dollars and go with radiant barrier
decking, silver side down.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more

What ever you spend a few dollars more and go with use radiant barrier
decking, silver side down. It "will" keep the shed and its contents
cooler in the summer.


Geeeez Translation,,

What ever you go with, spend a few extra dollars and go with radiant
barrier decking, silver side down.

And for another few bucks put radiant heat in the floor so it's warmer in
the winter.

John

wrote in message
...
I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more
than enough plans and ideas but one.

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds? I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

The shed plan is a standard gable style.

Ideas? Thoughts?

MJ

I store things in the roof space in my shed... things like PVC pipe, a
string trimmer, pole trimmer, lengths of gutter, etc. that are relatively
light and bulky. The space is so useful for those kinds of things that as I
repair the adjoining shed I'm getting rid of the nearly flat shed roof and
putting a gable roof on.

John

I have to agree with the Roof Overhang. I used enough 18" on one shed
and too little (10") on another and the door of the latter suffers
when it rains and the dirt splashes up and covers the bottom.

Ventilation (ridge vents - Yes!) is another thing one should seriously
consider for any structure.

And, I wire mine for lights (minimum) even if I don't yet have power
to them - just plan to when I get a round tuit.

Pitch also helps keep the leaves on/off - no?

I added rainwater barrels so the pitch heps

"Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs "

Short answer "Look around you!" See "what's common" in your area/

Fellow with the idea of mimicking your house had a good suggestion. We
did that with a shed once and copied the windows, shingles and even
the same vinyl siding. From a distance, it looked like a part of the
house itself.

Who are you looking to please?

Hoosierpopi wrote:
"Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs "

Short answer "Look around you!" See "what's common" in your area/

Fellow with the idea of mimicking your house had a good suggestion. We
did that with a shed once and copied the windows, shingles and even
the same vinyl siding. From a distance, it looked like a part of the
house itself.

I did the same with my shed. All my neighbors want one. :-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"All my neighbors want one. *:-)"

In my case, it was built for my son-in-law's new home and a neighbor
complained to the Association because it (with "porch") exceeded the
maximum allowable size/footprint (not sure which as I got story second
hand) provided for in the rulles.

The association had to come and inspect it before voting on whether it
would have to be removed/rebuilt. They did, and then went back and
voted to grant him an exception because it was so well done!

Was we ever proud!

Hoosierpopi wrote:
"All my neighbors want one. :-)"

In my case, it was built for my son-in-law's new home and a neighbor
complained to the Association because it (with "porch") exceeded the
maximum allowable size/footprint (not sure which as I got story second
hand) provided for in the rulles.

Gee, don't you just love having neighbors like that? Friggin' jackass.

The association had to come and inspect it before voting on whether it
would have to be removed/rebuilt. They did, and then went back and
voted to grant him an exception because it was so well done!

Was we ever proud!

I've long wondered why none of these builders have ever thought to incorporate a good
quality shed on a slab (with electricity) straight into the overall plan for the
subdivision. Everybody needs a shed; wouldn't it be a good selling point to have a
well-designed, top-quality, aesthetically pleasing shed for every house in the neighborhood?

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
I've long wondered why none of these builders have ever thought to
incorporate a good quality shed on a slab (with electricity) straight
into the overall plan for the subdivision. Everybody needs a shed;
wouldn't it be a good selling point to have a well-designed,
top-quality, aesthetically pleasing shed for every house in the
neighborhood?


I don't know about them but if I ever build again, I'm starting with an
outbuilding, first, then the house.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Hoosierpopi wrote:
"Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs "

Short answer "Look around you!" See "what's common" in your area/

Fellow with the idea of mimicking your house had a good suggestion. We
did that with a shed once and copied the windows, shingles and even
the same vinyl siding. From a distance, it looked like a part of the
house itself.

Who are you looking to please?


I built a pool/gardening shed (8' x 12') that included a 2' porch on one
end. Classy. Dang porch swing didn't work worth spit though.

elegance is my most important product,
jo4hn

In article ,
wrote:
I am going to build a storage shed. I've got more
than enough plans and ideas but one.

I want to build a shed with a low pitched roof. I don't
want a roof higher than about 15" +/- above the door.
It will be either a 8x10 or 8x12 shed.

Is there a "common' aesthetic when it comes to roofs
for sheds?

No. grin

That said, out-buildings tend to 'look funny' if they are taller than their
widest dimension.

I've seen many a plan where the roof is way
above the door (it seems like wasted space to me) and
others where there is barely a sense of a pitch.

The shed plan is a standard gable style.

Ideas? Thoughts?

It depends on locale.

As with house roofs, if you're looking at snow loads measured in feet,
the requirements are far different than if you're just shedding water.

The simplest guideline is 'make it high enough to store the tallest thing
you'll put in the shed'.

Some people like to store stuff -- either 'long', or 'bulky but lightweight'
types -- "overhead". This calls for a higher roofline than if everything
will sit on the floor, or shelves.

If you're using shelving, consider where the top shelf will be, and how much
clearance you'll have between there and the roof.