General Int. 50-185 LM1 Table Saw
 

Oops, I clicked the wrong button before I was finished
with my review of my new saw and sent it out incomplete.


Anyway...The Biesemeyer clone fence works perfectly.
It was pretty easy to set up and it clamps down parallel
every time. Every cut is exactly where the tape measure
on the fence rail says it is. I've never had a saw that
I could trust like this before. The only thing I don't like
about the fence is that it appears that the only way I can
change the face of the fence is to rip it off. I would
like to be able to add a taller fence sometimes but I can't
get to the screw heads. They laminated over the screw heads
after the plywood was screwed onto the rectangular tubing.
I guess I could just clamp on another fence but then the
clamps will sort of be in the way. Any ideas on how to get
around that?
I'm planning/building a full width cabinet and router table
top for the saw right now. I've noticed that most of the
router tables attached to table saws that I've seen have you
operating the router from the end of the tablesaw with your
body perpendicular to the saw blade. My set up will have
me standing on the same side as I would to operate the saw
and the saw table will act as an outfeed table for the router
table. I have a very beefy router fence with the base made
from 3"x3"x1/4" steel angle that I had machined straight and
square so that it's as close as my feeler gauge can measure.
Attached to that are some sliding MDF auxiliary fences. The
table is 1 3/8" thick and has 4 miter t-slot tracks, two in
each direction on either side of the router insert. The
fence slides in the miter tracks using some machined hex
blocks that fit into the tracks. Since both pairs of tracks
are the same distance apart I can run the fence either
parallel to the length of the table or perpendicular to it.
Well, that's the plan anyway. I haven't installed the table
yet since I'm just starting to build the cabinet but the
table looks good on my bench, anyway. ;~}
Well, that's my review about the bad and good of my new
GI saw. Sure beats the hell out of my 40+ year old
Craftsman from my dad that I was using.

Bruce
Redding, Ca.

General Int. 50-185 LM1 Table Saw
 

Bruce, You can get the extension flat by tightening the center screw
first. then either side. then use a "c" clamp to pull in the extension
for the third screw. Or, just snug each up and use a wooden mallot to
tap into alignment.


On 19 Feb 2004 22:54:02 -0800, (Bruce)
wrote:

Oops, I clicked the wrong button before I was finished
with my review of my new saw and sent it out incomplete.


Anyway...The Biesemeyer clone fence works perfectly.
It was pretty easy to set up and it clamps down parallel
every time. Every cut is exactly where the tape measure
on the fence rail says it is. I've never had a saw that
I could trust like this before. The only thing I don't like
about the fence is that it appears that the only way I can
change the face of the fence is to rip it off. I would
like to be able to add a taller fence sometimes but I can't
get to the screw heads. They laminated over the screw heads
after the plywood was screwed onto the rectangular tubing.
I guess I could just clamp on another fence but then the
clamps will sort of be in the way. Any ideas on how to get
around that?
I'm planning/building a full width cabinet and router table
top for the saw right now. I've noticed that most of the
router tables attached to table saws that I've seen have you
operating the router from the end of the tablesaw with your
body perpendicular to the saw blade. My set up will have
me standing on the same side as I would to operate the saw
and the saw table will act as an outfeed table for the router
table. I have a very beefy router fence with the base made
from 3"x3"x1/4" steel angle that I had machined straight and
square so that it's as close as my feeler gauge can measure.
Attached to that are some sliding MDF auxiliary fences. The
table is 1 3/8" thick and has 4 miter t-slot tracks, two in
each direction on either side of the router insert. The
fence slides in the miter tracks using some machined hex
blocks that fit into the tracks. Since both pairs of tracks
are the same distance apart I can run the fence either
parallel to the length of the table or perpendicular to it.
Well, that's the plan anyway. I haven't installed the table
yet since I'm just starting to build the cabinet but the
table looks good on my bench, anyway. ;~}
Well, that's my review about the bad and good of my new
GI saw. Sure beats the hell out of my 40+ year old
Craftsman from my dad that I was using.

Bruce
Redding, Ca.