Tom Watson wrote:


Used a full width backer and fillers, so that the clamping comes out
even.

Important!

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Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon wrote:


"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
the bit could be bending while spinning and cause too much material to
be
removed. This could be exaggerated at higher bit speeds. Leigh
recommends
8mm and 1/2" bits to help fight chatter.

Hmmm. You could be right, but that's an awful lot of bit chatter for the
amount of dead space shown in the pictures he presented. I'd freak out if
any router I had caused that much wobble.


Chatter along with a smaller based and light weight router could do that.

Chatter may be a contributor, but I've seen the same kind of gapping when
using the heavier plunge router as well. I'm starting to really lean to
the idea that neither of my router bases is flat enough and that there is
enough rocking that I'm getting excessive cutting.

I need to look into the 8mm bits but then will need a collet adapter to
work in my router


--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

Mark & Juanita writes:
I need to look into the 8mm bits but then will need a collet
adapter to work in my router

I use only the 1/4" bits and don't have the problems you're having,
though.

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...
Leon wrote:


"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
the bit could be bending while spinning and cause too much material to
be
removed. This could be exaggerated at higher bit speeds. Leigh
recommends
8mm and 1/2" bits to help fight chatter.

Hmmm. You could be right, but that's an awful lot of bit chatter for the
amount of dead space shown in the pictures he presented. I'd freak out
if
any router I had caused that much wobble.


Chatter along with a smaller based and light weight router could do that.

Chatter may be a contributor, but I've seen the same kind of gapping when
using the heavier plunge router as well. I'm starting to really lean to
the idea that neither of my router bases is flat enough and that there is
enough rocking that I'm getting excessive cutting.

I need to look into the 8mm bits but then will need a collet adapter to
work in my router

Something else to consider, since the DT jig will flex when a router is
setting on it, are you using a backer board under the top clamp to totally
support the entire width/length of the DT jig? If it is not totally
supported it can raise or lower with the weight of the router closer to the
ends of the work. It also insures that the DT jig is adjusted correctly to
the correct plane.

Mark & Juanita writes:

Chatter may be a contributor, but I've seen the same kind of gapping when
using the heavier plunge router as well.

I think a plunge router would not be appropriate for this
application, even if it has a real good depth lock.

scott

Leon wrote:


"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...
.... snip

I need to look into the 8mm bits but then will need a collet adapter to
work in my router

Something else to consider, since the DT jig will flex when a router is
setting on it, are you using a backer board under the top clamp to totally
support the entire width/length of the DT jig?

Yes, I've been doing that. Coincidentally, the tail with the worst gap is
the one closest to the near end of the jig.

If it is not totally
supported it can raise or lower with the weight of the router closer to
the
ends of the work. It also insures that the DT jig is adjusted correctly
to the correct plane.

--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

Scott Lurndal wrote:

Mark & Juanita writes:

Chatter may be a contributor, but I've seen the same kind of gapping
when
using the heavier plunge router as well.

I think a plunge router would not be appropriate for this
application, even if it has a real good depth lock.

scott

Let me clarify that. I use a plunge router, but once I have the depth
set, don't use the plunge mechanism, I use it as a fixed base. I agree,
the plunge to plunge repeatability errors would contribute significantly to
errors.


--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

replying to Mark & Juanita, Gene Foeler wrote:
I have the jig, an excellent router, sharp bits, and tighten the clamps. The
results are inconsistent, gaps in joints on one drawer, great on the next.
Gave up on the last batch of drawers and used a miter lock router bit and had
excellent results and good looking drawers. Dove tails are great, but a
finished, functioning project is better! I am going to try placing a second
board beside the drawer side Im routing to see if it will hold the side in
place. Good luck!
Gene

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