The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I
took it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got
hot and the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?

Keith Nuttle wrote:
The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I
took it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got
hot and the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?

Something like this would be your best bet (but size it for your motor
HP rating):

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic...nly-2-HP/G8291


If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243


Chris

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
el...
Keith Nuttle wrote:
The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I took
it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got hot and
the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?

Something like this would be your best bet (but size it for your motor HP
rating):

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic...nly-2-HP/G8291


If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243


Chris

Or go to the Sears website and follow the links to Sears Parts Direct.
Typically, I've been able to enter a few numbers and find exact
replacements.

Ed

Woodcraft has an after-market switch for less than $30. Works fine on
my router table.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I
took it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got
hot and the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?

Chris Friesen wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:
The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I
took it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got
hot and the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?

Something like this would be your best bet (but size it for your motor
HP rating):

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic...nly-2-HP/G8291



If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243


Chris

How would you install one of these switches ie. the paddle switch?

The shrouding around the guts of the saw is only about two thirds of the
table and my current switch fits on the underside of the other third
of cast iron table. The switch is about a finger length from the front
edge of the table.

The only other places the switch would fit would be quite low on the
legs of the support rack or way back under the table on the saw body.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:

If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

How would you install one of these switches ie. the paddle switch?

That switch is supposed to fit normal electrical boxes, so the simplest
is probably to mount an electrical box under the table at a suitable
location. Worst-case, you can drill/tap the cast iron to accept some
bolts, or there might be a way to use existing holes--hard to tell
without looking at the saw. You'll probably need to use a spacer or
bracket of some sort to mount the box so that the switch has enough
clearance to fasten to the box.

Chris

Get or make an angle bracket and mount the
electrical box to that and then add the switch.

The bracket could be a piece of flat steel
that's the correct width of the electrical
box.



Keith Nuttle wrote:

How would you install one of these switches ie. the paddle switch?

The shrouding around the guts of the saw is only about two thirds of the
table and my current switch fits on the underside of the other third of
cast iron table. The switch is about a finger length from the front edge
of the table.

The only other places the switch would fit would be quite low on the
legs of the support rack or way back under the table on the saw body.

On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 10:03:18 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

Keith Nuttle wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:

If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

How would you install one of these switches ie. the paddle switch?

That switch is supposed to fit normal electrical boxes, so the simplest
is probably to mount an electrical box under the table at a suitable
location. Worst-case, you can drill/tap the cast iron to accept some
bolts, or there might be a way to use existing holes--hard to tell
without looking at the saw. You'll probably need to use a spacer or
bracket of some sort to mount the box so that the switch has enough
clearance to fasten to the box.

Years ago I drilled and tapped the CI top of my Sears Model 100 and
mounted a ½" pipe flange under the table. I then fitted a 3 or 4"
nipple into the flange, then a ½" NPT threaded collar, followed by the
electrical box, followed by another ½" NPT threaded collar. Mount the
switch inside, and voila.

There's a couple of pictures of the switch on my saw at my website:

http://www.woodbutcher.net/craftts.shtml



--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Wed, 18 Mar 2009 17:58:53 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

The cord on the switch on my 40 year old Sears table saw has been run
over one too many times and I decided to replace it. However when I
took it apart to replace the cord I notice at some time something got
hot and the covering of on wire is slightly melted.

The switch consist of two plugs, one controlled by a rocker switch
(Standard one that came with the saw) I have done some googling and
checked some of the local stores and have not been able to find a
replacement.

What are other people using for switches?


A magnetic switch is added safety, well worth the extra cost and never
need it.

Chris Friesen wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:

What are other people using for switches?

Something like this would be your best bet (but size it for your motor
HP rating):

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic...nly-2-HP/G8291

If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

Grizzly also sells some cheap 6 - 10 amp magnetic switches starting at $8:

http://grizzly.com/products/searchre...n/off%20switch

I've never used one of those and most of my switches are just regular
light switches. My largest motor is 1 1/2 HP on my Table saw, and that
is a heavy duty switch but not magnetic. When I bought the saw it had a
regular light switch on it. I only replaced it because I came stumbled
over a pair of heavy duty switches with heat fuses in them...

If it were me I would buy the paddle switch you listed. I rarely have
power outages other than a rare blown fuse and I've never forgotten to
turn off a switch after a power outage. I'm not getting any younger
though, and forgetting to turn of a switch could be a real...

.....Damn, what was it we were we talking about again...

--
Jack
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