Here is how I want to power my TS/router workstation.

A switch(A) near the front of the TS that will turn on the shop-vac
outlet(C). A second switch(B) on the other side near the router that
will also power the shop-vac outlet(C). This is easy enough using 3-
way switches to power the outlet(C) but I also want the switch near
the router(B) to control an outlet for the router(D).

Can this be done with with standard 3-way or 4-way switches or am I
stuck with having an additional switch for outlet D?

Access is not a problem and I can power the circuit from any point.

I'd rather not use one of those relays for this purpose because I want
to be able to turn the router on & off via a switch outside of the
enclosed cabinet.

Any ideas?

Limp Arbor wrote:
Here is how I want to power my TS/router workstation.

A switch(A) near the front of the TS that will turn on the shop-vac
outlet(C). A second switch(B) on the other side near the router
that
will also power the shop-vac outlet(C). This is easy enough using
3-
way switches to power the outlet(C) but I also want the switch near
the router(B) to control an outlet for the router(D).

Can this be done with with standard 3-way or 4-way switches or am I
stuck with having an additional switch for outlet D?

Access is not a problem and I can power the circuit from any point.

I'd rather not use one of those relays for this purpose because I
want
to be able to turn the router on & off via a switch outside of the
enclosed cabinet.

Any ideas?

Well, if you absolutely positively gotta do it with switches and
switches alone, and you want one of them to power the shop vac outlet
and the router at the same time, then you need what's called a "double
pole double throw switch". One side can be connected like an ordinary
3-way switch, the other you connect to the router. A Leviton 1282 for
60 bucks or so is one example, that looks like an ordinary wall
switch. If it doesn't have to look like an ordinary wall switch,
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=EG1528-ND
or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=360-1929-ND
should do the job.

If you don't want to be fancy about your wiring, though, using one of
these
http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/S...productID=9921 and
one of these
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools will
have the shop vac turn on any time you power up either the router or
the table saw. Then you can use whatever kind of switch you want on
the router table--as long as it draws power through the auto switch
the vacuum will be operated by it. Note--the auto switch doesn't have
a way to just turn on the shop vac--to do that plug in a power strip
instead of the y-cable and plug a lamp or something into one of the
outlets--when you turn on the lamp the vacuum will come on.

Be aware though, that for any of these solutions, a 3 hp router and
big shop vac can overload a 15 amp circuit--I've popped breakers
several times with that arrangement. Using the same componets as
above, add a contactor from Grainger
(http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4DD05 for example) and actuate
it off one of the auxiliary outlets, connect a plug and socket to it,
and you can then run the shop vacuum off a separate circuit.

Note by the way that most switches are not designed for motor loads
and using a typical wall switch to turn a motor on and off may kill
the switch prematurely.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Jan 5, 10:57 am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

Be aware though, that for any of these solutions, a 3 hp router and
big shop vac can overload a 15 amp circuit--I've popped breakers
several times with that arrangement.

My spiffy Fein vac has an auto switched outlet built in, and here's
the part that cracks me up. They say it's rated for 2000 watts or up
to 18 amps.

1) The vac has a 5-15 plug
2) The vac motor is rated for 10 amps

So just how exactly am I supposed to get 28 amps into this thing?

And for the OP, just get yourself a Long Ranger remote and be able to
turn on the shop vac anywhere without having to change any wiring at
all.

-Kevin

On Jan 5, 10:48*am, wrote:


And for the OP, just get yourself a Long Ranger remote and be able to
turn on the shop vac anywhere without having to change any wiring at
all.

-Kevin

I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.

The Long Ranger "fob" has a short chain and spring clip that you can
attach to shop apron or whatever. I'm a jeans and t-shirt guy, so I
just clip it to a front belt loop. It dangles right by my front
pocket. The chain is short enough that there's no problem with it
being in the way.

THis is by far the superior solution without spending quite a bit of
extra money.

Tom

wrote:
On Jan 5, 10:57 am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

Be aware though, that for any of these solutions, a 3 hp router and
big shop vac can overload a 15 amp circuit--I've popped breakers
several times with that arrangement.

My spiffy Fein vac has an auto switched outlet built in, and here's
the part that cracks me up. They say it's rated for 2000 watts or
up
to 18 amps.

1) The vac has a 5-15 plug
2) The vac motor is rated for 10 amps

So just how exactly am I supposed to get 28 amps into this thing?

And for the OP, just get yourself a Long Ranger remote and be able
to
turn on the shop vac anywhere without having to change any wiring at
all.

Yep, if you don't insist that the vac come on when you power up the
router, that's really the way to go.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:57:03 +0000, J. Clarke wrote
(in article ):

erudite stuff

methinks staggering the startups, as in separate switches, would lessen the
load on the breakers significantly. The combined s.u. current drawn by
several motors kicking in at the same time may be WAY over the continuous
rating but staggering them would obviously stagger the peaks too.

Thinking something like a hooded foot switch with first and second
"progressive" presses or a noise-activated switch firing up the DC when the
router etc. kicks in.

I know I'm rambling.. Just ideas. I'll leave the engineering to the clever
folk.

On Jan 5, 2:31*pm, Bored Borg
wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:57:03 +0000, J. Clarke wrote
(in article ):

erudite stuff

methinks staggering the startups, as in separate switches, would lessen the
load on the breakers significantly. The combined s.u. current drawn by
several motors kicking in at the same time may be WAY over the continuous
rating but staggering them would obviously stagger the peaks too.


Good point. I hadn't planned on involving the TS motor in any of this
convoluted setup just a switch near the front to turn on the vac. The
vac and the router coming up to speed at the same time could be a
problem I might want to avoid. Maybe the Long Ranger or just 2
switches at the router are a way to go.

By the way I'm sure one of you has heard why the Lone Ranger killed
Tonto...
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
That's right, he found out what kimosabe meant.

Limp Arbor wrote:

Any ideas?



Spend $40 for a Long Ranger remote.

I LOVE my $20 Craftsman auto-switch for sanders, hand-held routers, and
my biscuit cutter, with the Shop-Vac, but a big router or table saw
might be too much for one 120v circuit.

Subject

Anything can be done.

Question is, do you really want to do it?

Cost is always the 1st issue.

Complexity vs realibity is another issue

The only way to realistically aproach the design is to use momentary
push buttons, control and power relays.

All of these devices could be mounted in a common enclosure.

If you try to do the job with maintained 2-way, 3-way,
and 4-way switches, you will chase your tail till you drop just like
the guy they found dead in the round barn.

The finally figured out he ran himself to death looking for a corner
where he could take a leak.

My first job in the control business was for a machine tool electrical
control panel designer and builder the year Don Larson threw the
no-hitter in the series.

Been involved in the control business in one form or another ever
since.

Personally, would touch this job as described with a 10 ft pole.

YMMV

Lew

wrote in message
...
I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.


When I bought mine, it came with two fobs. I velcroed one to the table saw and
the other to the band saw. That makes my dust collector accessible from two
different parts of my shop. Staggering the turn-ons has meant I don't have to
worry about popping breakers.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 06:29:36 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:



wrote in message
...
I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.


When I bought mine, it came with two fobs. I velcroed one to the table saw and
the other to the band saw. That makes my dust collector accessible from two
different parts of my shop. Staggering the turn-ons has meant I don't have to
worry about popping breakers.


My only regret to the Long Ranger is that I should have bought it many
years ago. I got the 240v version to control my PennState 1.5HP DC.

On Jan 7, 9:01*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 06:29:36 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"

mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

wrote in message
....
I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.

When I bought mine, it came with two fobs. *I velcroed one to the table saw and
the other to the band saw. *That makes my dust collector accessible from two
different parts of my shop. *Staggering the turn-ons has meant I don't have to
worry about popping breakers.

My only regret to the Long Ranger is that I should have bought it many
years ago. *I got the 240v version to control my PennState 1.5HP DC.

I 2nd the Long Ranger acquisition!

I ppd getting one for years. Dumbest choice I've made. I got one
last Christmas for myself - best present ever (please don't share this
with the rest of my family!). IMO - if you have a dust collector,
and you have any sort of piping system - even if it's 2 drops -get the
Long Ranger. I got mine from Amazon (made by PSI) for $50 or close.
I just toss the remote in my pocket. I have a 1.5hp DC, but wired it
220v. Later I can upgrade and keep the LR. I've designed a central
sysem with very short runs and gates near or right on each tool. You
need short runs with a 1.5HP unit and you need 6" lines. My TS,
jointer, BS, and miter box will be no more than 12' from the DC.

On Jan 7, 11:54*am, coloradotrout wrote:
On Jan 7, 9:01*am, Phisherman wrote:





On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 06:29:36 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"

mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

wrote in message
....
I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.

When I bought mine, it came with two fobs. *I velcroed one to the table saw and
the other to the band saw. *That makes my dust collector accessible from two
different parts of my shop. *Staggering the turn-ons has meant I don't have to
worry about popping breakers.

My only regret to the Long Ranger is that I should have bought it many
years ago. *I got the 240v version to control my PennState 1.5HP DC.

I 2nd the Long Ranger acquisition!

I ppd getting one for years. *Dumbest choice I've made. *I got one
last Christmas for myself - best present ever (please don't share this
with the rest of my family!). * IMO - if you have a dust collector,
and you have any sort of piping system - even if it's 2 drops -get the
Long Ranger. *I got mine from Amazon (made by PSI) for $50 or close.
I just toss the remote in my pocket. *I have a 1.5hp DC, but wired it
220v. *Later I can upgrade and keep the LR. * I've designed a central
sysem with very short runs and gates near or right on each tool. *You
need short runs with a 1.5HP unit and you need 6" lines. *My TS,
jointer, BS, and miter box will be no more than 12' from the DC.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworkin...1353447&sr=8-1

Phisherman wrote:


My only regret to the Long Ranger is that I should have bought it many
years ago. I got the 240v version to control my PennState 1.5HP DC.

I have the magnetic switch version for the DC, and use my older 120v
version for my HVLP turbine.

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:54:08 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout
wrote:

On Jan 7, 9:01Â*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 06:29:36 -0500, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"

mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

wrote in message
...
I strongly agree! The Long Ranger is the most simple solution and it's
cost effective when you consider the extra wiring and specialized
switches need to implement your plan. Plus, it will be extremely easy
to use, which is really the most important thing.

When I bought mine, it came with two fobs. Â*I velcroed one to the table saw and
the other to the band saw. Â*That makes my dust collector accessible from two
different parts of my shop. Â*Staggering the turn-ons has meant I don't have to
worry about popping breakers.

My only regret to the Long Ranger is that I should have bought it many
years ago. Â*I got the 240v version to control my PennState 1.5HP DC.

I 2nd the Long Ranger acquisition!

I ppd getting one for years. Dumbest choice I've made. I got one
last Christmas for myself - best present ever (please don't share this
with the rest of my family!). IMO - if you have a dust collector,
and you have any sort of piping system - even if it's 2 drops -get the
Long Ranger. I got mine from Amazon (made by PSI) for $50 or close.
I just toss the remote in my pocket. I have a 1.5hp DC, but wired it
220v. Later I can upgrade and keep the LR. I've designed a central
sysem with very short runs and gates near or right on each tool. You
need short runs with a 1.5HP unit and you need 6" lines. My TS,
jointer, BS, and miter box will be no more than 12' from the DC.
The exhaust extractor in my brother's auto shop is a similar
application. I wired it with low voltage pushbuttons and a "galloping
ghost" type relay.
Energize onece, it's on. Energize again, it's off.
It has a 3 watt red light to indicate when it is on, and a pushbutton
(doorbell switch) at each exhaust connection.

If he had a remote control setup the guys would be constantly loosing
them or backing over them with vehicles or creapers.

What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???

I have a larger Delta unit and it has the
mag switch but I wasn't aware of a remote
solution.

B A R R Y wrote:

I have the magnetic switch version for the DC, and use my older 120v
version for my HVLP turbine.

Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???

I have a larger Delta unit and it has the
mag switch but I wasn't aware of a remote
solution.

PSI sells a Long Ranger built into a mag switch. The receiver simply
pulls up the switch. With some effort, the same could be done by
disassembling a plug-in model.

Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???


I forgot... Part # LR-2244

Thanks... I'll take a peek


B A R R Y wrote:
Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???


I forgot... Part # LR-2244

What sort of DC are you using this on ???

B A R R Y wrote:
Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???


I forgot... Part # LR-2244

Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of DC are you using this on ???

B A R R Y wrote:
Pat Barber wrote:
What sort of controller do you have for
a mag switch ???


I forgot... Part # LR-2244


JDS 3100-CK