Has anyone used laminate (for counter tops) outside? I want to do
a couple of projects for outside that don't require laminate, but it
is a huge
consideration. I'm just wondering how long it would last outdoors and
if
the glue would hold in the extreme cold of the northern states or
direct
sunlight in the summer.
Lou

On Dec 31, 1:46*pm, Lou wrote:
Has anyone used laminate (for counter tops) outside? I want to do
a couple of projects for outside that don't require laminate, but it
is a huge
consideration. I'm just wondering how long it would last outdoors and
if
the glue would hold in the extreme cold of the northern states or
direct
sunlight in the summer.
* * * * * Lou

Laminate itself can handle the moisture and the heat. many can handle
the UV as well. Your concerns should focus on the substrate you will
be going to adhere to. Also, in high heat, direct sunlight, regular
contact cement might get soft. A PVA, like Wilsonart 3000 would be a
better choice, again, as long as you can seal off any water from
getting to the bond.
I think a slab of acrylic solid surface would serve you a lot better.

Laminate itself can handle the moisture and the heat. many can handle
the UV as well. Your concerns should focus on the substrate you will
be going to adhere to. Also, in high heat, direct sunlight, regular
contact cement might get soft. A PVA, like Wilsonart 3000 would be a
better choice, again, as long as you can seal off any water from
getting to the bond.
I think a slab of acrylic solid surface would serve you a lot better.

It's funny but I was just looking at that Wilsonart 3000. I will
probably
be bonding to grade A exterior plywood. The reason I can't use solid
surface is because a lot of the surfaces will be curved.
Lou

On Dec 31, 5:27*pm, Lou wrote:
Laminate itself can handle the moisture and the heat. many can handle
the UV as well. Your concerns should focus on the substrate you will
be going to adhere to. Also, in high heat, direct sunlight, regular
contact cement might get soft. A PVA, like Wilsonart 3000 would be a
better choice, again, as long as you can seal off any water from
getting to the bond.
I think a slab of acrylic solid surface would serve you a lot better.

It's funny but I was just looking at that Wilsonart 3000. I will
probably
be bonding to grade A exterior plywood. *The reason I can't use solid
surface is because a lot of the surfaces will be curved.
* * * * * Lou

That has never stopped me.G 325 degrees F and you can bend and twist
that stuff like putty...assuming it is acrylic like Corian, Gibraltar,
Staron and Meganite.

Exterior plywood is okay as long as you prepare the edges.

"Lou" wrote in message
...

Laminate itself can handle the moisture and the heat. many can handle
the UV as well. Your concerns should focus on the substrate you will
be going to adhere to. Also, in high heat, direct sunlight, regular
contact cement might get soft. A PVA, like Wilsonart 3000 would be a
better choice, again, as long as you can seal off any water from
getting to the bond.
I think a slab of acrylic solid surface would serve you a lot better.

It's funny but I was just looking at that Wilsonart 3000. I will
probably
be bonding to grade A exterior plywood. The reason I can't use solid
surface is because a lot of the surfaces will be curved.
Lou


Keep in mind that an exterior plywood does well out doors but that does not
mean that it will not absorb water and possibly compromise the bond

On Dec 31, 7:36*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Lou" wrote in message

...



Laminate itself can handle the moisture and the heat. many can handle
the UV as well. Your concerns should focus on the substrate you will
be going to adhere to. Also, in high heat, direct sunlight, regular
contact cement might get soft. A PVA, like Wilsonart 3000 would be a
better choice, again, as long as you can seal off any water from
getting to the bond.
I think a slab of acrylic solid surface would serve you a lot better.

It's funny but I was just looking at that Wilsonart 3000. I will
probably
be bonding to grade A exterior plywood. *The reason I can't use solid
surface is because a lot of the surfaces will be curved.
* * * * *Lou

Keep in mind that an exterior plywood does well out doors but that does not
mean that it will not absorb water and possibly compromise the bond

There is indeed a difference between wet and 'wet'.
I suppose the ideal combo would be Wilsonart 3000 onto Exterra. Me
thinks the bond would have to be submerged totally for quite a long
time for the bond to fail. Interesting problem though.
Laminate is used in shower and tub surrounds all the time. It is
essentially phenolic.

There is indeed a difference between wet and 'wet'.
I suppose the ideal combo would be Wilsonart 3000 onto Exterra. Me
thinks the bond would have to be submerged totally for quite a long
time for the bond to fail. Interesting problem though.
Laminate is used in shower and tub surrounds all the time. It is
essentially phenolic.

Some of the stuff I'm making will be boxes and cabinets so the entire
outside
of each will be covered. The insides will only be covered with a
sealant such
as paint or poly. I then plan to either, tape of the corners caulk and
paint (match colors)
or put a plastic corner trim on each corner with caulking underneath.
Lou