Work Bench
 

zxcvbob wrote:
Leon wrote:
For years I have been threatening to build a legitimate work bench. I
have been using fold up ones and steel ones but I want a wood top with
dog holes and a couple of vices.

Because there is a rather large investment in the "TOP" I have kicked
around using several different less expensive materials. In recent
years the replaceable MDF top has been popular with many magazines. I
forget what I was building several months ago but I ended up having
several pieces of 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood stacked up and noticed
that they looked quite substantial.

I am wondering if any one has used Baltic Birch ripped in to "lot's"
of strips and glued up on the faces to make a bench top. Basically
the edges of all the Baltic Birch plywood would be facing up and down
to form the top of the top.

Ideas appreciated

Leon



Best thing I have found for the top is a used solid interior door. I
bought a discarded hospital door for about $5 or $10 a few years ago.
Would have cost me at least 10x that much to build a hardwood slab like
that.

Bob


Have to agree ,Thats what I used ,two laminated together would make a
very substantial bench top.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

Work Bench
 

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
Somewhere recently I read about a woodworker that equipped his bench
with T-slots instead of dogholes.

I haven't really considered all the pros and cons of it, but the idea
is interesting. Anyone here done this? Any opinions?



IIRC I saw that too. WoodWhisperer maybe.



I remember seeing some discussion about it here on the wRECk. Maybe
that'll give you a starting point for further searches?

Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Work Bench
 

On Dec 23, 12:28 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Leon" wrote :



"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
.. .
Somewhere recently I read about a woodworker that equipped his bench
with T-slots instead of dogholes.

I haven't really considered all the pros and cons of it, but the idea
is interesting. Anyone here done this? Any opinions?

IIRC I saw that too. WoodWhisperer maybe.

I remember seeing some discussion about it here on the wRECk. Maybe
that'll give you a starting point for further searches?

The problem I see is you'd need a knob sticking out. If you want to
hand plane something you need to set the dog below the surface of the
stock. Unless you made your stop really long with the knob at the back
end it would be in the way, and that would effectively reduce the
length of your bench. Plus in the course of resurfacing the top
eventually you'd get to where you had to remove it and make the slot
deeper, even if you started with it recessed a bit.


-Kevin

Work Bench
 

wrote:
Somewhere recently I read about a woodworker that equipped his bench
with T-slots instead of dogholes.
I haven't really considered all the pros and cons of it, but the idea
is interesting. Anyone here done this? Any opinions?

The problem I see is you'd need a knob sticking out. If you want to
hand plane something you need to set the dog below the surface of the
stock. Unless you made your stop really long with the knob at the back
end it would be in the way, and that would effectively reduce the
length of your bench. Plus in the course of resurfacing the top
eventually you'd get to where you had to remove it and make the slot
deeper, even if you started with it recessed a bit.


Plus, I don't want anything that is making up bench top to be harder
than any tool I'm using on it. Even aluminum can put a good ding in
a freshly sharpened chisel.

And no foam, either. :-p --- [inside joke from another thread]


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Work Bench
 

Leon wrote:

That bit of information probably would have been helpful. ;!) I am wanting
a "flat" work bench to shape wood and or use for assembly of furniture. I
really want to get something bigger than my TS top. LOL

Personally, The only clear surface in my shop that I can use for
furniture assembly is my table saw and small parts of the floor. If you
really need a flat surface, really flat and really stable, then you need
to build a torsion box with plywood on both sides and an optional easily
replaceable hard board top.

My work benches all have 2x6 tops made out of cheap, construction grade
2x's. They look good (like wood) and are strong enough for anything I've
ever done. My main workbench is 30 years old, and has been used to
build fine furniture, junk furniture, repair electric motors, rebuild
gas engines, sharpen chain saws and about every other task one can come
up with over a life time. I look at all the fancy "cabinet makers" work
benches with the 3" hard wood tops, tool trays and what not and I shake
my head... If I made one of these things I'd be afraid to use it, and
besides, they generally have no storage in them and I would never build
a bench, work bench, tool stand etc. without storage. I don't really
care how big your shop is, you need more storage.

Is my main bench top beat up? Damn right it is, but it looks better to
me than the day I built it. I planned on having to refinish or replace
it periodically, but no way, no how. This is cheap, soft construction
grade pine. Whats nice about that is I was never afraid to use it, I
could always replace it easily and cheaply if I wanted too, just never
found the need.

I might add I haven't seen much of the top in a few years, it is
habitually covered in "stuff" If my memory is working, you are the guy
that posted a picture of your bench in a once in a blue moon
semi-uncluttered condition?

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

Work Bench
 

On Dec 22, 7:06*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somewhere recently I read about a woodworker that equipped his bench with
T-slots instead of dogholes.

I haven't really considered all the pros and cons of it, but the idea is
interesting. *Anyone here done this? *Any opinions?

I don't know if this is going thru twice or not as my ISP connection
went berzerk once I sent the message.

Could htis be the plans you may have seen for a benchtop with T-slots?

http://www.bobsplans.com/FreePlans/DNLD/Workbench.pdf

It seems somewhat intriqing to me but I am also afraid of the top that
is made entorely of MDF. I was wondering if a piece or two of MDF
sandwiched between pieces of plywood would be better for a top.

I can see where the T-slots could be extremely helpful and you
wouldn't get the wear teh dog holes would probably cause in the MDF
but I am afraid there may be other problems specific to the T-slots
that may even be worse then screwed up dog holes....

ray

Work Bench
 

Phisherman wrote:

Any wood will work. My benchtop is glued up 2x4 pine studs, finished
with danish oil. Spent lots of time flattening the top. I redo the
top every 3-4 years. A good bench should be large, sturdy and
heavy.

Thats what I made my first bench out of but I ripped the things into
2x2's and glued them up. Still going strong after 30 years but that was
my very first wood working project. I've since learned it's much better
to use 2 x 6's as they are about as cheap, easier to find higher quality
boards than the studs, and glue up is simple and fast.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

Work Bench
 

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

Personally, The only clear surface in my shop that I can use for furniture
assembly is my table saw and small parts of the floor. If you really need
a flat surface, really flat and really stable, then you need to build a
torsion box with plywood on both sides and an optional easily replaceable
hard board top.

My work benches all have 2x6 tops made out of cheap, construction grade
2x's. They look good (like wood) and are strong enough for anything I've
ever done. My main workbench is 30 years old, and has been used to build
fine furniture, junk furniture, repair electric motors, rebuild gas
engines, sharpen chain saws and about every other task one can come up
with over a life time. I look at all the fancy "cabinet makers" work
benches with the 3" hard wood tops, tool trays and what not and I shake my
head... If I made one of these things I'd be afraid to use it, and
besides, they generally have no storage in them and I would never build a
bench, work bench, tool stand etc. without storage. I don't really care
how big your shop is, you need more storage.

Is my main bench top beat up? Damn right it is, but it looks better to me
than the day I built it. I planned on having to refinish or replace it
periodically, but no way, no how. This is cheap, soft construction grade
pine. Whats nice about that is I was never afraid to use it, I could
always replace it easily and cheaply if I wanted too, just never found the
need.

I might add I haven't seen much of the top in a few years, it is
habitually covered in "stuff" If my memory is working, you are the guy
that posted a picture of your bench in a once in a blue moon
semi-uncluttered condition?

Thanks Jack, I keep you comments in mind. The torsion box idea might be a
good alternative. On the other hand I am not afraid of using a bench. ;~)
Few of my tools or equipment look pristine. If I posted a picture of my
bench it was a steel automotive work bench. Other than that I have a B&D
work table about 3' square that I have had for almost 30 years.
I would really like to remove the steel top from my current bench and hang
it on the back side of a mobile "wooden" work bench so that I could fold it
up and make my work surface area larger if needed.

Work Bench
 

I picked up a 3'6" exterior solid core plain door at a contractor's
garage sale for a few bucks. Works great. Has a tempered masonite type
finish.

Chuck P.

Work Bench
 

B A R R Y wrote:

I know what you mean. I'm 6' tall, and mobile bases usually add just
enough to machines to be right for me. Even if I'm not wanting a
machine to move, I like the extra height.

Yup, eliminating that little bit of stooping saves a back-ache later in the
day. I also picked up room for another shelf under the bench just by
raising it a few inches, and there's no such thing as too much storage
space.

Work Bench
 

Work Bench
 

DGDevin wrote:
B A R R Y wrote:

I know what you mean. I'm 6' tall, and mobile bases usually add just
enough to machines to be right for me. Even if I'm not wanting a
machine to move, I like the extra height.

Yup, eliminating that little bit of stooping saves a back-ache later in the
day. I also picked up room for another shelf under the bench just by
raising it a few inches, and there's no such thing as too much storage
space.


Not to mention how stored items help keep a bench in place!

Work Bench
 

Leon wrote:
"TD Driver" wrote in message
...
I've built a couple of benches over the past 20 years and the best top was
made from a hunk of bowling lane I picked up when one of the local
establishments went out of business. I regret the day that I decided to
leave that bench in the basement of a house we were renting.


I bet that worked out well, did you find any nails in the wood?


Of course. Some nails were found in advance of the cut, some were found
during it. The former were removed with a great sense of satisfaction.
The remainder not so much.

Work Bench
 

B A R R Y wrote:

Yup, eliminating that little bit of stooping saves a back-ache later
in the day. I also picked up room for another shelf under the bench
just by raising it a few inches, and there's no such thing as too
much storage space.


Not to mention how stored items help keep a bench in place!

Exactly, loading up those shelves really stabilized a fairly small bench. I
even used that to rationalize buying some heavy tools to put on the shelves.
;~)

Work Bench
 

Did the same thing, 2x4's on edge, but I drilled holes through each every
18" and used long all thread and torqued them together.. That was 25 years
ago, still going strong


Phisherman wrote:

On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 12:00:32 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

For years I have been threatening to build a legitimate work bench. I
have been using fold up ones and steel ones but I want a wood top with dog
holes and a couple of vices.

Because there is a rather large investment in the "TOP" I have kicked
around
using several different less expensive materials. In recent years the
replaceable MDF top has been popular with many magazines. I forget what I
was building several months ago but I ended up having several pieces of
1/2" Baltic Birch plywood stacked up and noticed that they looked quite
substantial.

I am wondering if any one has used Baltic Birch ripped in to "lot's" of
strips and glued up on the faces to make a bench top. Basically the edges
of all the Baltic Birch plywood would be facing up and down to form the
top of the top.

Ideas appreciated

Leon


Any wood will work. My benchtop is glued up 2x4 pine studs, finished
with danish oil. Spent lots of time flattening the top. I redo the
top every 3-4 years. A good bench should be large, sturdy and
heavy.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
Website Address http://rentmyhusband.co.nr/

Work Bench
 

On Tue, 23 Dec 2008 20:11:24 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:

I think the people who install t-tracks in a bench don't do much hand
tool work.

I'm not going to get rid of my dogholes, but I very well might add a row
or two of T-trak as an adjunct.

Work Bench
 

I think the people who install t-tracks in a bench don't do much hand
tool work.

I'm not going to get rid of my dogholes, but I very well might add a row
or two of T-trak as an adjunct.


I guess I don't see the point, IF one already has the clamps and
everything to go with dog holes.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Work Bench
 

On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 11:55:09 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I think the people who install t-tracks in a bench don't do much hand
tool work.

I'm not going to get rid of my dogholes, but I very well might add a row
or two of T-trak as an adjunct.


I guess I don't see the point, IF one already has the clamps and
everything to go with dog holes.

Dogholes provide clamping every N inches - 6" on my bench.
T-traks provide clamping anywhere (linearly).

Work Bench
 

On Dec 22, 9:44*pm, wrote:


Somewhere recently I read about a woodworker that equipped his bench
with T-slots instead of dogholes.


The problem I see is you'd need a knob sticking out. *If you want to
hand plane something you need to set the dog below the surface of the
stock.

Well, think about it some more. Any size or shape dog of any
material (wood, plastic, aluminum) can be mounted to a
small shoe that rides in the bottom of the T slot, with a setscrew
through the shoe to clamp the dog. There's no need for the
T-slot to be accompanied by a stick-up bolt, of the
metalwork milling holddown style.

How about a dovetail slot instead of T slot? It doesn't need metal
parts,
and a wedged dovetail dog would be easy to build.