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Little OT but involves wood and windows
Hello,
Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. Took just a few minutes to do. About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
On Oct 9, 1:47*pm, "Larry C" wrote:
Hello, Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. *My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. *I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. *Took just a few minutes to do. *About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that.. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? *I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C Tape up some plastic sheeting over the opening and when you're done widening it, dump the sheeting out the window and then install the new window? -Nathan |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
"N Hurst" wrote in message ... On Oct 9, 1:47 pm, "Larry C" wrote: Hello, Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. Took just a few minutes to do. About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C Tape up some plastic sheeting over the opening and when you're done widening it, dump the sheeting out the window and then install the new window? -Nathan Thanks Nathan That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. Less dust, more filings. Unfortunately if I use the plastic method I will not have to buy a power hand planer. Larry C |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
Larry C wrote:
.... That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. Less dust, more filings. Unfortunately if I use the plastic method I will not have to buy a power hand planer. I'd probably use a Skilsaw set at the depth to remove; make several passes across the length then split off between the cuts. Easy enough to do the cut at the top/bottom corners w/ handsaw. A drawknife would be ideal for the hacking, probably although a wide chisel would do of course. -- |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
"Larry C" wrote in message ... Hello, Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. Took just a few minutes to do. About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C Seems the simplest solution would be to do the same thing but work from the inside of the house with a fan at your back set on Hi. Or Use a Skil saw to make many relief cuts to the depth you want and then chisel out the rest. |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
"Larry C" wrote:
My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. Sounds like it is time for a hand held power planer. BTW, hang plastic sheeting to direct chipd outside. Lew |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
On Thu, 9 Oct 2008 14:31:45 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: "Larry C" wrote in message ... Hello, Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. Took just a few minutes to do. About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C Seems the simplest solution would be to do the same thing but work from the inside of the house with a fan at your back set on Hi. Or Use a Skil saw to make many relief cuts to the depth you want and then chisel out the rest. Sawzall is your friend for this job. Installers around here use them. You can just cut in as far as you need to and split out with a wide chisel (can use a skill saw too, but a "nail eater" blade on the sawzall isn't fussy WHAT gets in the way. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
Larry C wrote:
That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. Less dust, more filings. The plastic sheeting is an excellent idea, and the amount of dust might be substantially reduced if you purchased a top-o-the-line hand planer - just watch out for mails. A wand-type metal detector might be a wise investment. Don't forget safety equipment... ;-) -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
Larry C wrote:
"N Hurst" wrote in message ... On Oct 9, 1:47 pm, "Larry C" wrote: Hello, Not a full woodworking question but this group has a lot of good ideas I am replacing my 20 year old wooden windows with new construction windows. Basically the entire existing window comes out, new window goes in. My issue is that some of the rough openings may need to be about a 1/8 inch bigger on either side. 1/4 total increase. I have used a belt sander and 60 grit paper for the first one. Took just a few minutes to do. About 3 hours to clean up afterwards. About two days of silence from my wife after that. Anyone have any ideas how I can reduce the cleanup time? I am OK with the time for the job and the silence part after that. 2 x 6 studs if that matters to get a smaller window I would have to get custom made or one that is 4" thinner. Larry C Tape up some plastic sheeting over the opening and when you're done widening it, dump the sheeting out the window and then install the new window? -Nathan Thanks Nathan That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. Less dust, more filings. Unfortunately if I use the plastic method I will not have to buy a power hand planer. While a power planer will do much of the job, it doesn't get into corners very well. If you've never used one though, plan on practicing before you use it in anger.--it's very, very easy to turn a straight edge into one with a bow. A router with a suitable jig might be a better bet. The Bosch Colt with the offset base will get very close to a corner. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
"Larry C" wrote in message ... That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. Less dust, more filings. Unfortunately if I use the plastic method I will not have to buy a power hand planer. What in the hell is wrong with you man? You dare speak like this in public? Listen here mister, and listen real damned good - plastic don't have a damned thing to do with needing the "right" tool for the job. Sheese... Gotta tell some people everything. OK - so here's the scoop - do the plastic thing to keep the mess down *and* go buy the new power planer. For Pete's sake man - just don't tell the missus that you didn't need the power planer because the plastic was some sort of miracle cure. Just be sure you tell her how smart is was to hang that plastic to contain the mess that the new power planer (which halved the work time, plus added accuracy) created. -- -Mike- |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... While a power planer will do much of the job, it doesn't get into corners very well. Yeahbut, neither will a router. He doesn't have a corner problem though. He has a problem with the opening being too narrow. A power plane will take care of that nicely. If you've never used one though, plan on practicing before you use it in anger.--it's very, very easy to turn a straight edge into one with a bow. A router with a suitable jig might be a better bet. The Bosch Colt with the offset base will get very close to a corner. Unless I'm missing something, there are no corner issues here, and a router would not be the better choice. -- -Mike- |
Little OT but involves wood and windows
On Oct 9, 11:00*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: "Larry C" wrote in message ... That makes total sense. I feel like a bit if an idiot for not thinking that. I was thinking along the lines of a power hand planer. *Less dust, more filings. Unfortunately if I use the plastic method I will not have to buy a power hand planer. What in the hell is wrong with you man? *You dare speak like this in public? Listen here mister, and listen real damned good - plastic don't have a damned thing to do with needing the "right" tool for the job. *Sheese.... Gotta tell some people everything. OK - so here's the scoop - do the plastic thing to keep the mess down *and* go buy the new power planer. *For Pete's sake man - just don't tell the missus that you didn't need the power planer because the plastic was some sort of miracle cure. *Just be sure you tell her how smart is was to hang that plastic to contain the mess that the new power planer (which halved the work time, plus added accuracy) created. -- -Mike- Well, a power planer would be a good choice anyway because wood chunks aren't as big a PITA to clean up as sawdust is. Oh man you should have seen the look my mom gave my dad when we waltzed in from the garage covered in MDF dust after making some speaker cabinets. That stuff got EVERYWHERE in her kitchen. It didn't help that we had guests coming over and it was nearly dinnertime, either. So yeah, for the health of your family, get the planer and a metal detector, because you don't want to put your eye out with blade chunks. And if it has a dust port, you might look into the Festool dust collection system... don't need to clean up what never falls down, right? -Nathan |
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