"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
Folks,
Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Comments? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
use liquid metal(JB weld)wash the top first with a cleaner to remove any oil
residue sand lightly and coat with metal,let harden up good for several days and sand smooth with block. Question: how did the dip get into the top in the first place ? "Dave G" wrote in message om... Folks, Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Comments? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
On 28 Dec 2003 10:19:30 -0800, (Dave
G) wrote: Comments? How does it cut? Barry |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
"Dave G" wrote in message om... Folks, Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Well, you didn't mention whether or not the thing cuts good. That's all that matters. Have you built much with it? Has the problem with the saw caused any trouble with your projects? If not, I'd say don't waste any time on it. Don't fix it if it isn't broken. Of course some will say that all tolerances on any woodworking machine should be within 0.001 even if the machine is just used to cut 2x4s for an addition to your house. Frank |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
There is a 2 part epoxy that is used for leveling machinery foundations on
ships. I think it's called Level-All or Level-lite, but I'm sure a Google search will turn up something. |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
|
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
Dave, I had the same problem with my old Craftsman. There is no good fix as
the top, in my case continued to dip. However, if it still cuts fine then just rip then run it through the jointer. Dave "Dave G" wrote in message om... Folks, Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Comments? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. if this were a metalworking machine the solution would be to hand scrape the high spots down to flat. might be worth looking into... Bridger |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
This answer will be considered way out by most but here goes, call a local
automotive machine shop and ask them the width capacity of their vertical mill. If it sounds like it will fit....tell them what you have and get a price quote on cutting a .004" flycut. If you have a welder you can use a nickel based rod to build up the hole, and then it can be machined down (nickel machines easily but will hold up for along time, I have used it on unreplaceable exhaust manifolds). Of course this means you will have to remove the table top for the saw...........but depending on machine shop rates in your area could save you the price of a new saw if a reliable repair is absolutely necessary. Just my two cents worth. If you decide to go this route, email me and I will try to dig up the info on the nickel based rods I used. You can try standard machine shops, but usually the automotive types are cheaper. Lyndell "Dave G" wrote in message om... Folks, Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Comments? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. Just a couple of thoughts. Will whatever you use hold up being that thin? How will you machine, sand, or otherwise level it to a closer tolerance than what you have now? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote in message . ..
How does it cut? Aside from the fact that I can't figure out where/how to square the blade or the fence to the surface? Fine. |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
"Dan Parrell" wrote in message ...
Question: how did the dip get into the top in the first place ? "Dave G" wrote in message No clue. Does cast-iron "creep" under steady strain and 90degF temperature swings? The motor hangs from the front of the top. It was kept in Dad's unconditioned shed in Northern Virginia until he died, and then spent at least one winter/summer cycle outside under the deck. |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
Is it a cast metal or stamped sheet metal?
-- Bongs not Bombs Free Tommy Chong "Dave G" wrote in message om... Folks, Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new (or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth. On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of filling with some kind of auto-body filler. So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001, blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat. Comments? |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
On 28 Dec 2003 20:06:05 -0800, (Dave
G) wrote: B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote in message . .. How does it cut? Aside from the fact that I can't figure out where/how to square the blade or the fence to the surface? Fine. In that case, once you can square it up, use it until you can replace it. Barry |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
|
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
I sold a craftsman table saw with a cast iron top having the same
trouble, the fella I sold it to was an auto mechanic who took the table off and took it to an auto machine shop that had a wide belt sander for flattening automotive machine heads. Cost him $15 worked like a charm according to him. I do think he followed that up with some 600 grit and a nice wax job to complete it. EJ |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote in message . ..
How does it cut? Aside from the fact that I can't figure out where/how to square the blade or the fence to the surface? Fine. In that case, once you can square it up, use it until you can replace it. That's my problem ... I can't square it up. Where the wood rides (and hence what blade angle will give a square edge) depends on how wide the piece is, since the top is curved up away from the blade on both sides. |
"Building Up" Tablesaw Top?
"John D. Farr]" wrote in message ...
Is it a cast metal or stamped sheet metal? Cast iron. It's sounding like the recommendations a 1. JB-Weld, epoxy paint, or something similar, followed by sanding it down (probably with a full sheet of paper spray-glued to a flat piece of glass or some such). 2. Call a local machine shop and see what they can do, or 3. Relax my sphincter, and accept that I can't get square edges .... which would be acceptable if I had a decent jointer, but I was relying on my WWII blade to make up for that ... |
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