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Old December 29th 03, 05:06 AM
Dave G
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote in message . ..
How does it cut?


Aside from the fact that I can't figure out where/how to square
the blade or the fence to the surface? Fine.

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Old December 29th 03, 05:09 AM
Dave G
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

"Dan Parrell" wrote in message ...
Question: how did the dip get into the top in the first place ?
"Dave G" wrote in message


No clue. Does cast-iron "creep" under steady strain and 90degF
temperature swings? The motor hangs from the front of the top. It was
kept in Dad's unconditioned shed in Northern Virginia until he died,
and then spent at least one winter/summer cycle outside under the
deck.
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Old December 29th 03, 07:51 AM
John D. Farr]
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

Is it a cast metal or stamped sheet metal?

--
Bongs not Bombs
Free Tommy Chong
"Dave G" wrote in message
om...
Folks,
Need some advice here. First, a disclaimer. I hereby acknowledge
that the best solution is to replace the item in question with a new
(or used) PM/Jet/Grizzly/Delta/whatever. Not an option. So rest your
itchy trigger fingers, and save the bandwidth.

On to the problem. I have a Craftsman tablesaw (NO, I cannot
replace it). The top is "dished" towards the center. The lowest spot
seems to be just ahead of the throat--it's about 0.04" lower than the
sides. In his book, "Mastering Woodworking Machines," Mark Duginske
mentions filling low spots with epoxy paint. I've also thought of
filling with some kind of auto-body filler.

So my questions--is this enough of a flaw to be worth correcting
for a properly tuned saw? Otherwise, it's in excellent shape--arbor
runout 0.002, miter gauges parallel to each other to within 0.001,
blade dead-parallel to miter gauges. On the other hand, how can I get
the blade perpendicular to the top when the top's not flat? And has
anybody done this, and what material would you suggest? I'm thinking
of building a "dike" around the throat and miter slots, then flooding
the top with something that'll self-level, letting it harden, then
gluing sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanding the top flat.

Comments?



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Old December 29th 03, 02:50 PM
EJ_Sawmill
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

I sold a craftsman table saw with a cast iron top having the same
trouble, the fella I sold it to was an auto mechanic who took the
table off and took it to an auto machine shop that had a wide belt
sander for flattening automotive machine heads. Cost him $15 worked
like a charm according to him. I do think he followed that up with
some 600 grit and a nice wax job to complete it.

EJ
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Old December 30th 03, 03:39 AM
Dave G
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote in message . ..
How does it cut?


Aside from the fact that I can't figure out where/how to square
the blade or the fence to the surface? Fine.



In that case, once you can square it up, use it until you can replace
it.


That's my problem ... I can't square it up. Where the wood rides
(and hence what blade angle will give a square edge) depends on how
wide the piece is, since the top is curved up away from the blade on
both sides.
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Old December 30th 03, 03:43 AM
Dave G
 
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Default "Building Up" Tablesaw Top?

"John D. Farr]" wrote in message ...
Is it a cast metal or stamped sheet metal?


Cast iron.

It's sounding like the recommendations a

1. JB-Weld, epoxy paint, or something similar, followed by
sanding it down (probably with a full sheet of paper spray-glued to a
flat piece of glass or some such).
2. Call a local machine shop and see what they can do, or
3. Relax my sphincter, and accept that I can't get square edges
.... which would be acceptable if I had a decent jointer, but I was
relying on my WWII blade to make up for that ...


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