I am making an outfeed table for my Steel City cab saw, I am thinking
that I will have a fixed piece about 10" out from the saw and a hinged
folding piece after that about 30" out. I want to cut miter gauge
slots to match the saw for about 20 inches but cannot come uo with a
way that will ensure that they match. Any ideas?

I had thought of using my 5 foort straight edge as a router guide and
start it on the saw to ensure parallelism, but how accurate should
this cut be? if there is a little slop in this groove, I would think
that it would have no effect since it is really only there for run
out.

WHat have others done?

Thanks for any feedback.

Neil

Neillarson wrote:
I am making an outfeed table for my Steel City cab saw, I am thinking
that I will have a fixed piece about 10" out from the saw and a hinged
folding piece after that about 30" out. I want to cut miter gauge
slots to match the saw for about 20 inches but cannot come uo with a
way that will ensure that they match. Any ideas?

WHat have others done?


I measured carefully but still ended up screwing up the miter gauge slots when I
routed mine. I ended up recutting them a little bigger so that I could install
the metal tracks. It ended up looking OK and it certainly works fine. Aside
from how it looks, being oversized really won't make much difference. What does
is having the outfeed table at all. Mine folds but has spent 99% of its life
fully opened. Makes a great surface for working on many things.

I have put a few shots of mine on ABPW. You might note I never got around to
installing legs on the outside portion of the table; I just use an extra roller
guide I had sitting around gathering dust. Works great!



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

make a stick of wood that is nice and straight, a tight fit in your
slot and maybe 3 feet long. install the outfeed table where it's going
to go and slip the stick you made into one of the slots so it extends
out over the outfeed table. take a couple of scraps of plywood or such
and clamp them to the outfeed table so they just touch the stick in
the table slot. lift out the stick and run a router bit with a top
bearing between the clamped ply scraps to the desired depth. repeat
for the other slot.

"Neillarson" wrote in message
...
I am making an outfeed table for my Steel City cab saw, I am thinking
that I will have a fixed piece about 10" out from the saw and a hinged
folding piece after that about 30" out. I want to cut miter gauge
slots to match the saw for about 20 inches but cannot come uo with a
way that will ensure that they match. Any ideas?

I had thought of using my 5 foort straight edge as a router guide and
start it on the saw to ensure parallelism, but how accurate should
this cut be? if there is a little slop in this groove, I would think
that it would have no effect since it is really only there for run
out.

WHat have others done?

Thanks for any feedback.

Neil

Cut slots but cut them about 50$ wider than the one on the TS. Being
oversized will guard against alignment problems and seasonal changes in the
wood. There is no normal need for the slots in the out feed to guide the
miter gauge.

On May 6, 9:34*am, wrote:
make a stick of wood that is nice and straight, a tight fit in your
slot and maybe 3 feet long. install the outfeed table where it's going
to go and slip the stick you made into one of the slots so it extends
out over the outfeed table. take a couple of scraps of plywood or such
and clamp them to the outfeed table so they just touch the stick in
the table slot. lift out the stick and run a router bit with a top
bearing between the clamped ply scraps to the desired depth. repeat
for the other slot.

Great idea. Never would have thought of that myself, this is why I
love this board (and the spam is why I hate it).

On Tue, 6 May 2008 10:32:49 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

I measured carefully but still ended up screwing up the miter gauge slots when I
routed mine. I ended up recutting them a little bigger so that I could install
the metal tracks. It ended up looking OK and it certainly works fine. Aside
from how it looks, being oversized really won't make much difference.

My outfeed slots are oversize by design. This saves futzing with
table alignment.

The saw top has enough slot, once the slots on the outfeed would
matter, you're well past the blade.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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On May 6, 8:48 am, Neillarson wrote:
I am making an outfeed table for my Steel City cab saw, I am thinking
that I will have a fixed piece about 10" out from the saw and a hinged
folding piece after that about 30" out. I want to cut miter gauge
slots to match the saw for about 20 inches but cannot come uo with a
way that will ensure that they match. Any ideas?

I had thought of using my 5 foort straight edge as a router guide and
start it on the saw to ensure parallelism, but how accurate should
this cut be? if there is a little slop in this groove, I would think
that it would have no effect since it is really only there for run
out.

WHat have others done?

Thanks for any feedback.

Neil

Build up the top instead of cutting the slots --
cross section:

__________ _________ __________
|_________|____|________|_____|_________|
|________| |________|

Bottom cleats can be a full, 36" wide sheet of
plywood. Depends on what you have available.

Make the slots 1" wide, giving yourself ample
"slop factor" to help your miter bar or sled
guides run easily, even if the slots are less
than perfectly square. Extra depth from using
3/4" plywood helps, too.

I ran the slots the full length of the offcut table.
This lets me run sleds of any depth.