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The quest for a perfect miter joint
I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2"
wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? Got a table saw? Consider making a "miter sled" like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my website. Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point (particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the order of cut, using an established 90 degree corner to build the sled, insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length. These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with little or no tweaking. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Dick Snyder" wrote The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? Got a table saw? Consider making a "miter sled" like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my website. Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point (particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the order of cut, using an established 90 degree corner to build the sled, insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length. These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with little or no tweaking. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) I do have a table saw and I also have a miter sled I made. Unfortunately the miter sled I made does not have stop blocks. I made it for cutting one end of a piece of wood and it does a fine job at that. I may make a better miter sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Thanks for the reference to your sled. I like the way you did it and will probably copy what you did. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Thanks for the reference to your sled. I like the way you did it and will probably copy what you did. Perhaps a better blade on your SCMS so further sanding is not necessary? I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my Makita and resultant miter cuts are glass smooth and glue ready, no sanding necessary. With miter cuts, if I don't get the quality I need on the initial cut, sanding seems to add more problems than it's worth. I hope your luck is better than mine in that regard. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/8/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Dick Snyder" wrote sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Thanks for the reference to your sled. I like the way you did it and will probably copy what you did. Perhaps a better blade on your SCMS so further sanding is not necessary? I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my Makita and resultant miter cuts are glass smooth and glue ready, no sanding necessary. With miter cuts, if I don't get the quality I need on the initial cut, sanding seems to add more problems than it's worth. I hope your luck is better than mine in that regard. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/8/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) Excellent point on the blade Karl. I have a Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw and it was absolutely worth the high price I paid for it. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Dick Snyder" wrote sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Thanks for the reference to your sled. I like the way you did it and will probably copy what you did. Perhaps a better blade on your SCMS so further sanding is not necessary? I have a Forrest Chopmaster on my Makita and resultant miter cuts are glass smooth and glue ready, no sanding necessary. With miter cuts, if I don't get the quality I need on the initial cut, sanding seems to add more problems than it's worth. I hope your luck is better than mine in that regard. While I am at it, if I do copy your sled are there any improvements you would make if you did it over again? -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/8/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote While I am at it, if I do copy your sled are there any improvements you would make if you did it over again? None that I can think of. It does precisely what it supposed to do - give you perfect miters - and it's damn hard to improve on perfection. :) The most important part of building it (other than getting the miter slot runners parallel), is to be anally precise about insuring a perfect 90 degree angle on the plywood board that makes up the two opposite "fences". I was lucky in finding a factory plywood edge that was nuts on, but it really pays off down the road to be overly picky about this one factor. Do so, and even if you are a little off in placement of this part on the sled, you still have the complementary angle principle working in your favor when you cut adjacent miters on opposite "fences". -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Another argument against the sanded joint .. .. I was taught early on
the NEVER sand a surface that I expected to glue. The dust fills the pores, and affects the strength of the joint. Swingman wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote While I am at it, if I do copy your sled are there any improvements you would make if you did it over again? None that I can think of. It does precisely what it supposed to do - give you perfect miters - and it's damn hard to improve on perfection. :) The most important part of building it (other than getting the miter slot runners parallel), is to be anally precise about insuring a perfect 90 degree angle on the plywood board that makes up the two opposite "fences". I was lucky in finding a factory plywood edge that was nuts on, but it really pays off down the road to be overly picky about this one factor. Do so, and even if you are a little off in placement of this part on the sled, you still have the complementary angle principle working in your favor when you cut adjacent miters on opposite "fences". |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Dick Snyder wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Dick Snyder" wrote The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? Got a table saw? Consider making a "miter sled" like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my website. Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point (particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the order of cut, using an established 90 degree corner to build the sled, insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length. These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with little or no tweaking. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) I do have a table saw and I also have a miter sled I made. Unfortunately the miter sled I made does not have stop blocks. I made it for cutting one end of a piece of wood and it does a fine job at that. I may make a better miter sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Put a sanding plate on your saw. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" writes:
I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? How big is your sanding disk? I usually use the 12" disk sander and clamp a guide board to the cast-iron table at 45 degrees to the disk. Then just keep the workpiece tight against the guide board. Don't bother with miter gauge at all. You're doing pretty light sanding, I hope, so you don't need to press hard or you'll burn the end. scott |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On May 2, 11:29*am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote: I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message .. . "Dick Snyder" writes: I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? How big is your sanding disk? I usually use the 12" disk sander and clamp a guide board to the cast-iron table at 45 degrees to the disk. Then just keep the workpiece tight against the guide board. Don't bother with miter gauge at all. You're doing pretty light sanding, I hope, so you don't need to press hard or you'll burn the end. scott For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder http://www.lionmitertrimmer.com/ -- Bill B. http://home.comcast.net/~bberg100 "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW! What A RIDE!!" ... Unknown |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. This situation screams for the use of a bench plane and shooting board. There is a clip in the subscription section of the FWW site and there are tons of other references on the web and in books and magazines... The upside of using a shooting board over something like a Lion Trimmer is the bench place can be used for myriad other tasks. John http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=30677 |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote:
For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Dick, the problem with sanding or trimming a miter cut after cutting to length on a saw is that it ends up being too short. If you sand, you have to determine how much to over cut and how much to sand off, it's a crap shoot at best unless you have a stop to sand to a particular distance. I suggest a Dubby Miter Sled or the new Rockler Sled. http://in-lineindustries.com/ or http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18063 To cut a clean miter you need a sharp and a good quality regular width kerf blade. The Forrest WWII works well for this purpose. You also need to be certain that opposite parallel pieces are precisely the same length or they will never fit together tightly regardless if you are cutting dead on 45 or not. Because the pieces have to be precisely the correct "LENGTH" sanding will almost always change the length of the piece of wood. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Leon wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Dick, the problem with sanding or trimming a miter cut after cutting to length on a saw is that it ends up being too short. If you sand, you have to determine how much to over cut and how much to sand off, it's a crap shoot at best unless you have a stop to sand to a particular distance. I suggest a Dubby Miter Sled or the new Rockler Sled. http://in-lineindustries.com/ or http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18063 To cut a clean miter you need a sharp and a good quality regular width kerf blade. The Forrest WWII works well for this purpose. You also need to be certain that opposite parallel pieces are precisely the same length or they will never fit together tightly regardless if you are cutting dead on 45 or not. Because the pieces have to be precisely the correct "LENGTH" sanding will almost always change the length of the piece of wood. Just a comment, It does not matter how close to perfection the miter cut is, if the opposite sides of the frame are not absolutely the same length the miter is not perfect. -- Keith Nuttle 3110 Marquette Court Indianapolis, IN 46268 317-802-0699 |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Keith nuttle" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Dick, the problem with sanding or trimming a miter cut after cutting to length on a saw is that it ends up being too short. If you sand, you have to determine how much to over cut and how much to sand off, it's a crap shoot at best unless you have a stop to sand to a particular distance. I suggest a Dubby Miter Sled or the new Rockler Sled. http://in-lineindustries.com/ or http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18063 To cut a clean miter you need a sharp and a good quality regular width kerf blade. The Forrest WWII works well for this purpose. You also need to be certain that opposite parallel pieces are precisely the same length or they will never fit together tightly regardless if you are cutting dead on 45 or not. Because the pieces have to be precisely the correct "LENGTH" sanding will almost always change the length of the piece of wood. Just a comment, It does not matter how close to perfection the miter cut is, if the opposite sides of the frame are not absolutely the same length the miter is not perfect. I've found the best method for me is to glue up two joints 180 degrees from each other then trim as needed after the glue dries to get the last two joints the best you can get then glue them and move on. We woodworkers inspect things on a level that won't be viewed after the painting and glass goes in! YMMV, Rich |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Keith nuttle" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. Because the pieces have to be precisely the correct "LENGTH" sanding will almost always change the length of the piece of wood. Just a comment, It does not matter how close to perfection the miter cut is, if the opposite sides of the frame are not absolutely the same length the miter is not perfect. This is another place where the shooting board is handy... if pieces aren't exactly the same length, or not perfectly straight, the miters can be adjusted by using paper shims to adjust the position of the stock on the shooting board. I posted a couple photos of cutting and shooting miters on ABPW that show how a shooting board would be used for this purpose. John |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On May 2, 2:29 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote: I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? 80T crosscut blade. Even my 50T Freud Diablo will give me glue-ready joints straight off the table saw. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On Fri, 02 May 2008 21:06:29 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Dick Snyder" writes: The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? How big is your sanding disk? I think he would be better of improving the finish of the cuts with a good blade vs working on a system to finish the cuts. I had a combination Craftsman (unknown model came with the saw and the bulk of the print was worn off) that gave cross cuts a polished glass finish. This is he wants in the first place, might as well start with it. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Hi guys, Thanks for your thoughtful replies as always. This group is the BEST. Based on your replies I have decided to buy a better blade for my SCMS (I will order it today) - I am getting the Forrest Chopmaster as I have had such great results with the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw. I am also going to make a sled with a stop block based on the picture I saw on Karl's website. This will give me a couple of choices for how to do my work in the future. I will finish my current project with the new blade. I have some other stuff to do while I wait for the Forrest blade to show up. Dick |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Dick Snyder wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Hi guys, Thanks for your thoughtful replies as always. This group is the BEST. Based on your replies I have decided to buy a better blade for my SCMS (I will order it today) - I am getting the Forrest Chopmaster as I have had such great results with the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw. I am also going to make a sled with a stop block based on the picture I saw on Karl's website. This will give me a couple of choices for how to do my work in the future. I will finish my current project with the new blade. I have some other stuff to do while I wait for the Forrest blade to show up. Dick I have found that I can get exact lengths on the opposite sides by fastening the opposite sides together and trimming both ends. I uses a triangle miter gauge for the cuts and a staple gun to fasten the opposite sides together. I cut one end of the two sides, reverse the triangle miter gauge on the table and cut the other end. In essences the you are cutting the miters on both sides of the square. -- Keith Nuttle 3110 Marquette Court Indianapolis, IN 46268 317-802-0699 |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Doug Winterburn wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote: On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints. To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate. Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed rather than circular. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:ybYSj.1240$sp.1009@trnddc02... Doug Winterburn wrote: Larry Blanchard wrote: On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints. To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate. Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed rather than circular. If you use the tapered side with the arbor tilted you end up with a "Hollow Ground" surface. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
Leon wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:ybYSj.1240$sp.1009@trnddc02... Doug Winterburn wrote: Larry Blanchard wrote: On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints. To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate. Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed rather than circular. If you use the tapered side with the arbor tilted you end up with a "Hollow Ground" surface. That would depend solely upon how uniformly the stock is fed. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:vf0Tj.2133$zw.520@trnddc04... That would depend solely upon how uniformly the stock is fed. Yeah, you're right. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"Keith nuttle" wrote in message ... Dick Snyder wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote in message . .. I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2" wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit. I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't have gotten it just because it was cheap. The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem? TIA. Dick Snyder Hi guys, Thanks for your thoughtful replies as always. This group is the BEST. Based on your replies I have decided to buy a better blade for my SCMS (I will order it today) - I am getting the Forrest Chopmaster as I have had such great results with the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw. I am also going to make a sled with a stop block based on the picture I saw on Karl's website. This will give me a couple of choices for how to do my work in the future. I will finish my current project with the new blade. I have some other stuff to do while I wait for the Forrest blade to show up. Dick I have found that I can get exact lengths on the opposite sides by fastening the opposite sides together and trimming both ends. I uses a triangle miter gauge for the cuts and a staple gun to fasten the opposite sides together. I cut one end of the two sides, reverse the triangle miter gauge on the table and cut the other end. In essences the you are cutting the miters on both sides of the square. -- Keith Nuttle 3110 Marquette Court Indianapolis, IN 46268 317-802-0699 Keith, I have never heard of a triangle miter gauge. Do you mean a miter gauge set to 45 degrees where you cut one side of the pair and then the other? Dick |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On Fri, 02 May 2008 13:37:23 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Consider making a "miter sled" like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my website. Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point (particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the order of cut, using an established 90 degree corner to build the sled, insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length. These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with little or no tweaking. Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures? Or am I missing something about how it should be used? |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"PCPaul" wrote in message om... On Fri, 02 May 2008 13:37:23 -0500, Swingman wrote: Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures? It has a kerf, a bit hard to see but it is there. Additionally there is not much need to cut much past the actual stock you are mitering so the kerf need not be very far into the "point". |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"PCPaul" wrote in message
Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures? Yeah, I just made the sled to hang on the wall of the shop and look pretty .... art, doncha know.. Or am I missing something about how it should be used? A better monitor? -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:54:19 -0500, Swingman wrote:
"PCPaul" wrote in message Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures? Yeah, I just made the sled to hang on the wall of the shop and look pretty ... art, doncha know.. That's kinda what I figured... ;-) Or am I missing something about how it should be used? A better monitor? Well, in my defence the picture had to be squeezed an awfully long way down the tubes. Don't mind me, I'm just jealous. My 'shop' is a UK-sized one car garage - about 17'x8'. And it's not all for my sawdust generators either. |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
"PCPaul" wrote in message On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:54:19 -0500, Swingman wrote: "PCPaul" wrote in message Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures? Yeah, I just made the sled to hang on the wall of the shop and look pretty ... art, doncha know.. That's kinda what I figured... ;-) Or am I missing something about how it should be used? A better monitor? Well, in my defence the picture had to be squeezed an awfully long way down the tubes. LOL ... that'll indeed make a difference. (actually, if you look closely you can see the "vanishing magic kerf" in the second picture. It appears to be hidden by the edge of the plexiglass guard in the first picture. As Leon said, there is no need to cut much further past the "point", so it's not like a regular cutoff sled in that respect.) Don't mind me, I'm just jealous. My 'shop' is a UK-sized one car garage - about 17'x8'. And it's not all for my sawdust generators either. BTDT, and in the UK, AAMOF ... (built some of my "just married" furniture in an 8 x 8 garden shed in Staines, Middx). Now, I've got about twice that space (18 x 18), which seemed like a luxury in comparison ... for all of about ten minutes. I have plans (depending upon whether, in retirement, one prefers eating to having a bigger shop.) to build a 20 x 36 shop. I'm sure it won't take long to make even that seem inadequate. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 3/27/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
The quest for a perfect miter joint
On May 3, 8:33 am, "Leon" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:ybYSj.1240$sp.1009@trnddc02... Doug Winterburn wrote: Larry Blanchard wrote: On Fri, 02 May 2008 17:43:40 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: For $99 there was no cast iron table and no 12" disk. It was a mistake to get this thing! You can get a 10" sanding disk for your table saw. Get the one with one side tapered. but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints. To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate. Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed rather than circular. If you use the tapered side with the arbor tilted you end up with a "Hollow Ground" surface. Undercutting isn't necessarily a bad thing, such as when you're trimming an old out-of flat window case. |
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