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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?

Thanks.
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

Arbee wrote:

Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?

Thanks.

I've used 16 gauge nailer with poplar many times and don't recall ever
splitting it. Might want to go with a longer nail. However using the
heavier nail will cause more filling than the brad.

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

Arbee wrote:
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.


Is this going to be edging? If so, have you considered just using glue
and holding it in place with masking tape while the glue dries?

I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?


I've used 18 gauge nailers with oak. Poplar will not be an issue. As
for penetration...is there any way you can use longer brads?

I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?


Certainly more likely. Have you considered pre-drilling clearance holes
in the trim and nailing by hand near the ends?

Chris
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

"Arbee" wrote

I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?


All else being equal, the higher the gauge the less likely you are to split
your trim. However, if your trim is expensive/rare/in limited supply, why
take the chance ... when close to an end, pre-drill and use small finishing
nails.

BTW, this is a perfect opportunity to add to your tool arsenal and buy a
good 21ga pin nailer.

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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

or...you could ..."use a few brads to hold it until the glue dries..." g

Skip
www.ShopFileR.com



"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Arbee wrote:
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.


Is this going to be edging? If so, have you considered just using glue
and holding it in place with masking tape while the glue dries?

I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?


I've used 18 gauge nailers with oak. Poplar will not be an issue. As
for penetration...is there any way you can use longer brads?

I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?


Certainly more likely. Have you considered pre-drilling clearance holes
in the trim and nailing by hand near the ends?

Chris





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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Apr 18, 11:14*am, Arbee wrote:
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?

Thanks.


Arbee,

I recently faced the same issue as you are facing. I attached about 40
feet of 3/4 poplar trim (run through my router table, so actually a
little thinner than 3/4) using a 23 gauge pin nailer and glue. It
worked perfectly. I picked up the pin nailer at Harbor Freight for
about $15. That pinner will only shoot up to 1" pins, but that was
enough to secure the molding until the glue dried.

Kevin
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Apr 18, 11:22*am, evodawg wrote:
Arbee wrote:
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?


Thanks.


I've used 16 gauge nailer with poplar many times and don't recall ever
splitting it. Might want to go with a longer nail. However using the
heavier nail will cause more filling than the brad.

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"


There are some areas of this trim where I have plenty of room (at the
top and bottom of these 4 ft pieces) and areas where I have to be
closer to the edge. I think I'm going to use the long 16 gauge in
those roomy areas and use the 18 in the tight spaces just for some
reinforcement.

Thanks all for your help.
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

Get your hands on some excess stock and try it both ways. Never hurts.
That way you get to develop your technique before you go "live".

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Arbee wrote:
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?

Thanks.

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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Apr 18, 10:31 am, "Swingman" wrote:

BTW, this is a perfect opportunity to add to your tool arsenal and buy a
good 21ga pin nailer.


I am wondering, does the one you have in mind come in a nice black
with gremlin green trim?

;^)

Robert
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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer


wrote in message
...
On Apr 18, 10:31 am, "Swingman" wrote:

BTW, this is a perfect opportunity to add to your tool arsenal and buy a
good 21ga pin nailer.


I am wondering, does the one you have in mind come in a nice black
with gremlin green trim?

;^)



Mine does, mine does, mine does. LOL... I have the Grex and it came with
an assortment of every size pin that it will shoot in quantities of 1000
each. The gun has performed flawlessly and is fun to use. I think I have
used and almost run out of 6 or 7 of the sizes. It shoots up to 1-3/8" and
down to 3/8. It has no problem making a long pin disappear in hard wood but
as you might suspect it can come out unexpectedly in weird grain. I never
thought I would use it as much as I do.




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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer


wrote in message
On Apr 18, 10:31 am, "Swingman" wrote:

BTW, this is a perfect opportunity to add to your tool arsenal and buy a
good 21ga pin nailer.


I am wondering, does the one you have in mind come in a nice black
with gremlin green trim?

;^)

Robert



Nope ... that's Leon's, mine is Italian colored.

An "Omer"

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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 15:22:50 GMT, evodawg wrote:

I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?


Poplar is pretty soft, use some glue and you'll be fine.

I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?


The smaller (diameter) fastener the better if you're concerned about
splitting.
Another thing to consider is that most pneumatic fasteners have a
chisel point (not round). IMHO, you want to turn the gun so that the
chisel point cuts through the grain instead of spreading the grain as
it goes in. In thin stock I'll turn the gun so that the chisel point
is perpendicular to the direction of the grain. This is a lesson
learned from hanging miles of casing and applies to both pins and
finish nails. YMMV

Mike O.
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"Arbee" wrote in message
...
Hi. I'm going to be installing some 3/4" poplar trim on 3/4" wood
backing and need some advice. I have both 16 and 18 gauge nailers.
Because of the style of the trim, I'm going to have to nail pretty
close to the edges, so I figure the 18 gauge is the best choice. We
got the trim custom made and the wife will kill me if I split it.
I have a 2 part question. First, if I go with the 18 gauge, would the
3/4" poplar just create a bunch of 18 gauge pretzels and second, since
the brads are only 1.25", is 1/2" penetration into the backing enough?
I guess the other question would be, if I go with the 16 gauge, is it
likely to split the wood?

Thanks.


I would also like to recommend galvanized nails.


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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Apr 18, 5:09 pm, "Leon" wrote:


Mine does, mine does, mine does. LOL...


I shoulda known.....

LMAO!!

Robert

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On Apr 18, 6:02 pm, "Swingman" wrote:

Nope ... that's Leon's, mine is Italian colored.

An "Omer"


I almost bit off on a cobalt blue (nope, not Lowe's, HF) when they had
them a month or so ago for $!9.95 This was the advanced model, it
shot pins as long as 1 1/4". :^)

I put several people on to the HF brad nailers as they were so cheap
that you could literally buy them, use them for a while then toss
them. I bought about 5 or six of their larger 18 ga brad nailers
about three years ago and gave them out as Christmas gifts. For
$9.95, you got the nailer, a tiny bottle of oil, 250 1 1/4 brads, the
air fitting, some teflon tape (4 inches!) and a tiny bottle brush
which was liberated from each package to keep as a paint gun nozzle
brush.

All of them still work. One of them is in a high school shop now and
has had thousands of brad shot through it.

Go figure.

I really like my Bostitch stuff a lot more, but I did use one of those
for several days trimming out a house when I was waiting on a seal kit
for my 2" Bostitch bradder. Not bad... not bad at all. Worth every
cent and then some.

I will have to be looking more and more at backup plans as now my
Bostitch repair guy has pulled stakes and is gone. I will now have to
wait for a couple of weeks to get parts from Bostitch when I need seal
kits, triggers, etc. I have 7 different Bostitch guns, so I may be in
some trouble when one of them dies. With a $65 bench fee and charges
for all parts, some may not be worth fixing. Not that long ago, when
I bought a couple of cases of nails, they would replace any soft parts
a gun needed for nothing, and take it apart and install any hard parts
I purchased from them for nothing. Those were the days....

Sitting here thinking about it, the hell of it all is that a HF backup
gun costs less than the tune up kit of soft parts for the smaller
guns. And for $5, I can get the HF store exchange warranty that lasts
or a year on a new brad gun. Might have to think this through some
more.

Robert


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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer


wrote:


I put several people on to the HF brad nailers as they were so cheap
that you could literally buy them, use them for a while then toss
them. I bought about 5 or six of their larger 18 ga brad nailers
about three years ago and gave them out as Christmas gifts. For
$9.95, you got the nailer, a tiny bottle of oil, 250 1 1/4 brads,
the
air fitting, some teflon tape (4 inches!) and a tiny bottle brush
which was liberated from each package to keep as a paint gun nozzle
brush.


Sooner or later, Teflon tape will come back to bite you in the rear
end.

When you thread a fitting with tape into a coupling, little bits of
tape get cut off, taken down stream where they will find an orifice
and plug it.

Much better to use Teflon paste, the plumber's friend.

Goes on like pipe dope, seals like Teflon.

Lew


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Default 16 or 18 gauge nailer

On Apr 19, 1:33*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
I put several people on to the HF brad nailers as they were so cheap
that you could literally buy them, use them for a while then toss
them. *I bought about 5 or six of their larger 18 ga brad nailers
about three years ago and gave them out as Christmas gifts. *For
$9.95, you got the nailer, a tiny bottle of oil, 250 1 1/4 brads,
the
air fitting, some teflon tape (4 inches!) and a tiny bottle brush
which was liberated from each package to keep as a paint gun nozzle
brush.


Sooner or later, Teflon tape will come back to bite you in the rear
end.

When you thread a fitting with tape into a coupling, little bits of
tape get cut off, taken down stream where they will find an orifice
and plug it.


Then you're putting too much on and in the wrong place.

Ever notice that rolls of teflon tape disappear? Like pencils?

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On Apr 18, 6:09*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Apr 18, 10:31 am, "Swingman" wrote:


BTW, this is a perfect opportunity to add to your tool arsenal and buy a
good 21ga pin nailer.


I am wondering, does the one you have in mind come in a nice black
with gremlin green trim?


*;^)


Mine does, mine does, mine does. *LOL... *I have the Grex and it came with
an assortment of every size pin that it will shoot in quantities of 1000
each. *The gun has performed flawlessly and is fun to use. *I think I have
used and almost run out of 6 or 7 of the sizes. *It shoots up to 1-3/8" and
down to 3/8. *It has no problem making a long pin disappear in hard wood but
as you might suspect it can come out unexpectedly in weird grain. *I never
thought I would use it as much as I do.


Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...es-4791441.jpg
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"Robatoy" wrote:

Then you're putting too much on and in the wrong place.


Ever notice that rolls of teflon tape disappear? Like pencils?


Not around here, especially in the refineries.

It cost a customer a $10K emergency field service call to learn that
lesson.

Best stay with topsG

These days, strictly a "Henry Home Owner" item.

Lew
..




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On Apr 19, 2:02*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote:
Then you're putting too much on and in the wrong place.
Ever notice that rolls of teflon tape disappear? Like pencils?


Not around here, especially in the refineries.

It cost a customer a $10K emergency field service call to learn that
lesson.

Best stay with topsG

We were talking about air nailers, not instrument air.

Best stay with topic. G

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"Robatoy" wrote:

We were talking about air nailers, not instrument air.



This was an oil burner.

Instrument air is a whole different world which is rapidly going away,
thank heaven.

Digital electronics have made 3-15 PSIG puff puff totally non
competitive.

Wait a minute, this was about Teflon tape.

A little story aside.

Way back when Teflon was first introduced, there was a technical paper
written in French that needed to be translated into American English,

Hired a local college professor to translate.

Came back a few days later saying he was almost finished except for
the word "Te-Fla".

Not sure whether the chief engineer broke the news to him or not.

Lew


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"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 18, 6:09 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message



Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...es-4791441.jpg

No! IE could not display the web page.


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"Leon" wrote in message
...
Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...es-4791441.jpg

No! IE could not display the web page.


If it weren't for the Toyota badging (not to mention the word
"TOYOTA in the window) I would have guessed it to be the redesign of the
Honda Ridgeline.

Dave in Houston


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"Leon" wrote

"Robatoy" wrote in message


Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...es-4791441.jpg

No! IE could not display the web page.


Consider yourself lucky indeed!!

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On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:09:20 GMT, "NuWave Dave" wrote:


If it weren't for the Toyota badging (not to mention the word
"TOYOTA in the window) I would have guessed it to be the redesign of the
Honda Ridgeline.


With a fat Aston Martin nose. G

http://www.caradvice.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/picture-214_full-800x600.jpg


---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
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On Apr 19, 9:09*am, "NuWave Dave" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...

Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ontent_landing...


No! *IE could not display the web page.


* * If it weren't for the Toyota badging (not to mention the word
"TOYOTA in the window) I would have guessed it to be the redesign of the
Honda Ridgeline.

That is what I first thought it was. A Ridgeline on steroids.
Nothing new under sun, I guess.

Here's some samples of the high-beltline designs from Chrysler. 73
years ago! Not so much the nose as the side view.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...rtCoupefvl.jpg

And where did today's Malibu's nose come from? (btw, that's a 2001 S4
Bi-turbo)
Even more pronounced is the fact that the newer Audis are being ripped
off.
Hell, even Nissan stole the TT outright. *******s.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../pinstripe.jpg

Don't get me started.

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On Apr 19, 2:57*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote:
We were talking about air nailers, not instrument air.


This was an oil burner.


Ah, any tiny orfice. A nailer? Not so much. *S*

Instrument air is a whole different world which is rapidly going away,
thank heaven.

Digital electronics have made 3-15 PSIG puff puff totally non
competitive.


And much more accurate/reliable.
That was already evident back in 1975 when I was involved with the
installation of 4 Bentley Nevada systems on units 1-4 at Hearn GS
Toronto. A lot of that was still analogue though.



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Try this:

http://www.toyota.com/concept-vehicles/abat.html

Leon wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 18, 6:09 pm, "Leon" wrote:

wrote in message




Psssst, Leon... did you see this thing?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...es-4791441.jpg

No! IE could not display the web page.


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OK.. where did the nose on a Malibu come from ???
(I got a 2008)

Robatoy wrote:


And where did today's Malibu's nose come from? (btw, that's a 2001 S4
Bi-turbo)

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