I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

I doubt if it'd be hard enough. Some scraper blades are in the Rc55-58 range
and therefore require a burnisher that's harder than that. You could look
for a hardened drill blank, either high speed steel or carbide. I hear
people use automotive valve stems or wrist pins, too. If a burnisher is
marked at all by the scraper, it's too soft.

[Shill mode on]

Or you could just buy one of our burnishers. 3/8" dia x 6" long hardened to
Rc64+ and a mere $13.00 (our #BR375). And assuming you are the "San
Francisco Bay" -Area Dave (as opposed to some other bay) you could just
scoot over the bridge to the Japan We're in Alameda and pick one up...

[Shill mode off]

Regards,
Noyo Harbor Area Ron

PS: California's Highway-1 is getting a new bridge over the Noyo Harbor
(your tax dollars at work) here in Fort Bragg. The cool thing is that
they're building the two new outside lanes on each side of the old bridge so
you can walk out on the old walkway and watch a bridge being built from just
a few feet away. Usually all that big work gets done way up in the air and
behind chain link enclosures. But we've been monitoring the progress all
along right up close and personal. C'mon up the coast and check it out.

-----
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS
www.hocktools.com
-----

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

I just got back from Graingers and declined to purchase the part. It
turned out to be square stock; not round, anyway. I'll just keep using
what I've got on hand until I run across something suitable. Thanks, Ron

dave

Ron Hock wrote:

I doubt if it'd be hard enough. Some scraper blades are in the Rc55-58 range
and therefore require a burnisher that's harder than that. You could look
for a hardened drill blank, either high speed steel or carbide. I hear
people use automotive valve stems or wrist pins, too. If a burnisher is
marked at all by the scraper, it's too soft.

[Shill mode on]

Or you could just buy one of our burnishers. 3/8" dia x 6" long hardened to
Rc64+ and a mere $13.00 (our #BR375). And assuming you are the "San
Francisco Bay" -Area Dave (as opposed to some other bay) you could just
scoot over the bridge to the Japan We're in Alameda and pick one up...

[Shill mode off]

Regards,
Noyo Harbor Area Ron

PS: California's Highway-1 is getting a new bridge over the Noyo Harbor
(your tax dollars at work) here in Fort Bragg. The cool thing is that
they're building the two new outside lanes on each side of the old bridge so
you can walk out on the old walkway and watch a bridge being built from just
a few feet away. Usually all that big work gets done way up in the air and
behind chain link enclosures. But we've been monitoring the progress all
along right up close and personal. C'mon up the coast and check it out.

-----
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS
www.hocktools.com
-----

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

Ron's burnisher would be cheaper, easier to acquire and it would be
what you need. Buy his. You could try McMaster-Carr if you are
determined not to buy his but he has a heck of a good reputation with
plane irons/blades so I would pay attention to what he says.

On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 19:13:47 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

I just got back from Graingers and declined to purchase the part. It
turned out to be square stock; not round, anyway. I'll just keep using
what I've got on hand until I run across something suitable. Thanks, Ron

dave

Ron Hock wrote:

I doubt if it'd be hard enough. Some scraper blades are in the Rc55-58 range
and therefore require a burnisher that's harder than that. You could look
for a hardened drill blank, either high speed steel or carbide. I hear
people use automotive valve stems or wrist pins, too. If a burnisher is
marked at all by the scraper, it's too soft.

[Shill mode on]

Or you could just buy one of our burnishers. 3/8" dia x 6" long hardened to
Rc64+ and a mere $13.00 (our #BR375). And assuming you are the "San
Francisco Bay" -Area Dave (as opposed to some other bay) you could just
scoot over the bridge to the Japan We're in Alameda and pick one up...

[Shill mode off]

Regards,
Noyo Harbor Area Ron

PS: California's Highway-1 is getting a new bridge over the Noyo Harbor
(your tax dollars at work) here in Fort Bragg. The cool thing is that
they're building the two new outside lanes on each side of the old bridge so
you can walk out on the old walkway and watch a bridge being built from just
a few feet away. Usually all that big work gets done way up in the air and
behind chain link enclosures. But we've been monitoring the progress all
along right up close and personal. C'mon up the coast and check it out.

-----
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS
www.hocktools.com
-----

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

303 stainless is too soft for anything. Even a hard stainless is too
soft for a burnisher.

Buy one. You can get good ones for about $5, and they already have a
knuckle-saving handle on them.

If you have to make your own, buy a length of "silver steel", "drill
rod" or "O-1" and harden it. Put it on the stove until it's a cherry
red, then quench in engine oil (watch for fires). Don't try to temper
it - you should manage fine without.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Bay Area Dave wrote...
I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

If you want to *buy* something, you'd be better off to get a solid
carbide end mill and use the shank. Solid carbide router bits are much
more expensive; go figure. An old broken one will do just as well, of
course, and can often be had for nothing from a local machine shop.

Stainless is definitely the wrong way to go. If you want to get a steel
you can harden yourself with little experience (I.e., darn hard to screw
it up), get W-1 and after hardening, draw the temper to 450 F. You should
end up with a tool over RC 60 surface hardness, which is quite sufficient
for burnishing a scraper or putty knife blade, which are much softer.

Jim

"Jim Wilson" wrote in message

If you want to *buy* something, you'd be better off to get a solid
carbide end mill and use the shank. Solid carbide router bits are much
more expensive; go figure. An old broken one will do just as well, of
course, and can often be had for nothing from a local machine shop.

That would be a very good price. If the OP is going to buy something, why
not buy a burnishing tool from Lee Valley? Comes with a handle even. Of
course sometimes the thrill of the chase to get something as a freebee is
worth ore than the time and effort spent in the pursuit.
Ed

Edwin Pawlowski wrote...

If the OP is going to buy something, why
not buy a burnishing tool from Lee Valley?

Agreed.

Comes with a handle even. Of
course sometimes the thrill of the chase to get something as a freebee is
worth ore than the time and effort spent in the pursuit.

(G) I hear ya!

Jim

Steel dowel pin.



"Ron Hock" wrote in message
...
I doubt if it'd be hard enough. Some scraper blades are in the Rc55-58
range
and therefore require a burnisher that's harder than that. You could look
for a hardened drill blank, either high speed steel or carbide. I hear
people use automotive valve stems or wrist pins, too. If a burnisher is
marked at all by the scraper, it's too soft.

[Shill mode on]

Or you could just buy one of our burnishers. 3/8" dia x 6" long hardened
to
Rc64+ and a mere $13.00 (our #BR375). And assuming you are the "San
Francisco Bay" -Area Dave (as opposed to some other bay) you could just
scoot over the bridge to the Japan We're in Alameda and pick one up...

[Shill mode off]

Regards,
Noyo Harbor Area Ron

PS: California's Highway-1 is getting a new bridge over the Noyo Harbor
(your tax dollars at work) here in Fort Bragg. The cool thing is that
they're building the two new outside lanes on each side of the old bridge
so
you can walk out on the old walkway and watch a bridge being built from
just
a few feet away. Usually all that big work gets done way up in the air and
behind chain link enclosures. But we've been monitoring the progress all
along right up close and personal. C'mon up the coast and check it out.

-----
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS
www.hocktools.com
-----

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

They have dowel pins. If you want something longer, look for drill blanks.
Make sure it is a drill blank, not drill rod. Drill blanks are made from
hardened and ground HSS. They come in the same sizes as twist drills. A 1/2
inch would be great. You might find it cheaper to buy a burnisher though.
BTW, if you want to do your own hardening, go ahead and buy a piece of drill
rod. Usually comes in 36" lengths in whatever diameter you want. Unhardened.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

CW, yeah if it isn't gonna save most of the cost, then I'll just order a
burnisher. I thought I was gonna get what I needed for $7 this morning,
but when I saw what it was of course I had them keep it. thanks for all
the tips. After reading about hardening steel, I remembered many years
ago heating up a large punch and chisel with a torch and quenching them
in oil. Those suckers kept an edge for a long time!

I try to get stuff locally when I can, rather than order online. that's
always my last resort. In this case, ordering the proper tool seems to
be the most expedient thing to do.

dave

CW wrote:

They have dowel pins. If you want something longer, look for drill blanks.
Make sure it is a drill blank, not drill rod. Drill blanks are made from
hardened and ground HSS. They come in the same sizes as twist drills. A 1/2
inch would be great. You might find it cheaper to buy a burnisher though.
BTW, if you want to do your own hardening, go ahead and buy a piece of drill
rod. Usually comes in 36" lengths in whatever diameter you want. Unhardened.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

No doubt about it. Good stuff is available, but it's not cheap. I've seen
some very good commercial burnishers. They will work great for you. Great
thing about it, they never wear out.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
CW, yeah if it isn't gonna save most of the cost, then I'll just order a
burnisher. I thought I was gonna get what I needed for $7 this morning,
but when I saw what it was of course I had them keep it. thanks for all
the tips. After reading about hardening steel, I remembered many years
ago heating up a large punch and chisel with a torch and quenching them
in oil. Those suckers kept an edge for a long time!

I try to get stuff locally when I can, rather than order online. that's
always my last resort. In this case, ordering the proper tool seems to
be the most expedient thing to do.

dave

CW wrote:

They have dowel pins. If you want something longer, look for drill
blanks.
Make sure it is a drill blank, not drill rod. Drill blanks are made from
hardened and ground HSS. They come in the same sizes as twist drills. A
1/2
inch would be great. You might find it cheaper to buy a burnisher
though.
BTW, if you want to do your own hardening, go ahead and buy a piece of
drill
rod. Usually comes in 36" lengths in whatever diameter you want.
Unhardened.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to use
a burnisher.

dave

Or you could go to an engine rebuilder and beg a used hardened pushrod. You
will come away with as many as you can carry! And they work!

"CW" wrote in message
news:U4Yub.250259$HS4.2247997@attbi_s01...
No doubt about it. Good stuff is available, but it's not cheap. I've seen
some very good commercial burnishers. They will work great for you. Great
thing about it, they never wear out.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
CW, yeah if it isn't gonna save most of the cost, then I'll just order a
burnisher. I thought I was gonna get what I needed for $7 this morning,
but when I saw what it was of course I had them keep it. thanks for all
the tips. After reading about hardening steel, I remembered many years
ago heating up a large punch and chisel with a torch and quenching them
in oil. Those suckers kept an edge for a long time!

I try to get stuff locally when I can, rather than order online. that's
always my last resort. In this case, ordering the proper tool seems to
be the most expedient thing to do.

dave

CW wrote:

They have dowel pins. If you want something longer, look for drill
blanks.
Make sure it is a drill blank, not drill rod. Drill blanks are made
from
hardened and ground HSS. They come in the same sizes as twist drills.
A
1/2
inch would be great. You might find it cheaper to buy a burnisher
though.
BTW, if you want to do your own hardening, go ahead and buy a piece of
drill
rod. Usually comes in 36" lengths in whatever diameter you want.
Unhardened.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I'm trying to find the correct material in the Grainger's catalog to
use
a burnisher.

dave