I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

They make a finger jointing buit that inmitates the pattern you see on
door trim/jambs. I'd probably opt for mending plates and/or screws.You
could use one peice as an overlapping piece for the joint and use
screws to join.

On 17 Nov 2003 08:34:58 -0800, (Rob) wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!

dave

Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

he could be a lot of 2x4's for the price of the bit; remember, he's
trying to SAVE money.

dave

Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:

They make a finger jointing buit that inmitates the pattern you see on
door trim/jambs. I'd probably opt for mending plates and/or screws.You
could use one peice as an overlapping piece for the joint and use
screws to join.

On 17 Nov 2003 08:34:58 -0800, (Rob) wrote:


I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

On 17 Nov 2003, Bay Area Dave spake unto rec.woodworking:

you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!

Your keyboard already HAS a SHIFT key. You can't be THAT lazy.

Oh yes he can! I am.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 18:08:17 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!

dave

Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

put your pc on ebay...

dave

Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:

Oh yes he can! I am.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 18:08:17 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:


you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!

dave

Rob wrote:


I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

(Rob) writes:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for
$$ reasons. I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that
are 3'- 4' in length. Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending
plates, kerf cuts?

Considering that "Mending plates" (are that the metal plates that are
nailed on?) do not come for free i would (if enough material is there)
glue the 2x4s (i guess you mean 2"x4" and not 2'x4') staggered to form
4"x4"'s, like this: (Each strip of identical letters stands for one 2x4)

AB
AB
AB
AC
AC
AC
DC
DC
DC

For the roof beams i would consider one-piece beams, though; but the
need not necesarily be rectangular in cross section, round ones can
also be used (also for the side walls), and they might be got much
cheaper. (My fathers workshop has also some round poles, which wree
available when it was constructed partly from scrap material 45 years
ago, also on a very tight budget)
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

Try a half-lap joint with the mending plates.

Shawn

Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

Bay Area Dave wrote:
you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!

Several points... g

- Why spend $2 * (the number of studs) if you don't have to? Lotsa rich
folk, who live very well, are quite frugal about buying new when used will
do. In many cases it's how they got and kept wealth.

- I've had new, kiln dried studs get all twisty. It doesn't matter much
in a wall, but why not use pieces that are probably done twisting?

- My neighbor has a nice shed he's building from construction site
castoffs. I raid his trash for 2' & longer 2x4's and 2x6's. Some of us
*enjoy* making useful things from other's junk. g My drafting table top
and a couple of 4-drawer roll arounds came from two desks that were tossed
out when a business moved. The top of my drill press table came from one of
the desk sides. Even if I could drop a million dollars a year into this
hobby I'd still enjoy making functional utility stuff from castoffs.

-- Mark

there are 2 qualities of studs at HD. if you spend an extra 12 cents or
so, you can get straight ones, all day long...

dave

Mark Jerde wrote:

Bay Area Dave wrote:

you can get REAL studs at HD for a few pennies above $2. You CAN'T be
that broke!


Several points... g

- Why spend $2 * (the number of studs) if you don't have to? Lotsa rich
folk, who live very well, are quite frugal about buying new when used will
do. In many cases it's how they got and kept wealth.

- I've had new, kiln dried studs get all twisty. It doesn't matter much
in a wall, but why not use pieces that are probably done twisting?

- My neighbor has a nice shed he's building from construction site
castoffs. I raid his trash for 2' & longer 2x4's and 2x6's. Some of us
*enjoy* making useful things from other's junk. g My drafting table top
and a couple of 4-drawer roll arounds came from two desks that were tossed
out when a business moved. The top of my drill press table came from one of
the desk sides. Even if I could drop a million dollars a year into this
hobby I'd still enjoy making functional utility stuff from castoffs.

-- Mark

Use the crap you find in your woodstove. Take the money you save on oil and
buy real studs so the roof doesn't cave in on your head and cost you money
at the emergency room.

--
-Jim
©¿©¬

If you want to reply by email its -- ryan at jimryan dot com
Please use BCC and lets all avoid spam
"Shawn" wrote in message
...
Try a half-lap joint with the mending plates.

Shawn

Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$
reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in
length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

In article ,
Rob wrote:
I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

If you've got _lots_ of scrap available, and can add a 'splice piece' on
*both* sides of each point where the butt joints are, I'd say "go for it".

i.e.:


1
1
1
1
A1B
A1B
A1B
A1B
A1B
A2B
A2B
A2B
A2B
A2B
2
2
2
2


I'd run the 'splice' pieces (A and B, above) _at_least_ a foot beyond the
1-2 joint, in each direction.

I would *not* trust nails, or screws, to hold things together.

I tend to "over-engineer" for reliability (*PARTICULARLY* when I'm "not
sure" what I'm doing , so, in addition to gluing, I'd run *bolts* through
the whole mess, above and below the joint point. With big 'fender' washers.
A total of 4 bolts, one pair about 3-4" away from the joint, and the second
pair about 9" away.

(Rob) wrote in message . com...
I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

Rob, Ignore the naysayers. You can splice the 2x4's by using scrap
1/2" ply or osb wall/roof sheathing. Glue and nail. Scraps are
plentiful at job sites. Plenty safe if you butt the 2x4's tightly
together so that the load is transfered without relying on the patch.
Make up the studs first then cut to length as you normally would. You
can also use the short lengths with ply to make yourself 3 roof
trusses. A good way to recycle. Go for it.

mike

Greetings and Salutations.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 00:12:33 GMT, ()
wrote:

In article ,
Rob wrote:
I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

If you've got _lots_ of scrap available, and can add a 'splice piece' on
*both* sides of each point where the butt joints are, I'd say "go for it".

i.e.:

*snip*

that sounds like a decent plan for a storage shed. I would
also coat all the touching surfaces with Liquid Nails. I REALLY
like its ability to turn two pieces of wood into one.
Got to have panels on both sides of the joint though, and, up
a fairly long way from it too.
Regards
Dave Mundt

liquid nails crystalizes after a few years and becomes TOTALLY
WORTHLESS. don't rely on that stuff.

Dave Mundt wrote:

Greetings and Salutations.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 00:12:33 GMT, ()
wrote:


In article ,
Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

If you've got _lots_ of scrap available, and can add a 'splice piece' on
*both* sides of each point where the butt joints are, I'd say "go for it".

i.e.:


*snip*

that sounds like a decent plan for a storage shed. I would
also coat all the touching surfaces with Liquid Nails. I REALLY
like its ability to turn two pieces of wood into one.
Got to have panels on both sides of the joint though, and, up
a fairly long way from it too.
Regards
Dave Mundt

SSBidWlsdCBhIHdob2xlIGNhYmluIG9uY2UgYnkgdXNpbmcgcm FuZG9tIGxlbmd0aCBzY3JhcCAy
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IGtlcmYgY3V0cz8gDQo+IA0KPiBSb2I=

wrote:

In article ,
Rob wrote:
I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

If you've got _lots_ of scrap available, and can add a 'splice piece' on
*both* sides of each point where the butt joints are, I'd say "go for it".

(snip)
I've done it, exactly in this fashion. I was in college and broke, broke, broke.
(Really broke. Can't-afford-Ramen-noodles broke.) I could get all the cast off 4'
2x4s I wanted from a warehouse (used as skids for pallets and bundles of lumber) for
free.

I nailed together a pile of them, then cut them to length. The shed I made was 7x12
footprint, with a sloped (free!) corrugated metal roof. It sloped from 7 feet on one
edge to 6 feet on the other. The only place I didn't scrimp was on the roof joists,
which were solid 2x4s held in place by joist hangers. It was an ideal project for
the time, it ignored every building code and blatantly defied some, it used common
sense and the best materials I could afford, and it is still standing 10 years later.

If you have lots of lumber and nails, you can make 4x4s or thicker material built up
out of smaller pieces, with staggered joints. One warning that I have is this: DON'T
rely on this method to be really structurally safe, i.e. for a supporting beam in a
habitable building. Glu-Lam beams use finger joints and really waterproof glue, and
are glued up under controlled conditions and tested to failure to know their
weaknesses.

Be sure to use concrete blocks (or even bricks) to keep it off the ground if you
can't afford pressure treated sill plates. A word of wisdom: a storage building
under 100 sq feet, with a temp foundation of concrete blocks or gravel, may not be
subject to building codes or building inspections in most communities. (Check this
out in your community, duh, IANAL.) You may not even have to obey the standard
property setbacks for a small building.

Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress, and if you can get a pic on the 'net,
I'd love to see it when it's finished.

Thanks to everyone for the info and the welcome to rec.woodworking!
The ASCII diagrams were especially useful. With this post I was mainly
concerned with the side walls. I will likely use (purchased) clear
spans of 2"x4" for the roof in the interest of safety. Although, if I
can figure out a solidly engineered truss system using the same
construction cast offs I might go in that direction.

Mending plates will cost extra so, I'll probably pass on using those
for the walls.

My point in all this IS to be frugal. Currently, we have one half of a
garage filled with lawn & garden equipment and I would like to reclaim
this area for a workbench and to park my car. We have the "benefit" of
living in a development with several houses under construction.
Currently, two have been sheetrocked, two have just had foundations
completed with lumber delivered. Another has just been sheathed.

I have a qty of leftover exterior grade screws I will use as well as
some nails.

I also have a reliable source of wood pallets through my wife's
employer.
I will be examining these next for the 2"x4" used. I am aware that the
quality of wood varies widely in pallets and may not be worth using
(or even safe).

For those interested in tracking my progress I will post a page soon.

So far I have scavenged the following cast off materials:

2 pkgs of cast off roof shingles (black)
30' of 2x4 mostly in 8' and 10-12' sections scavengend from a cast off
truss.
8 concrete blocks. These have been already cut in a "half/L" shape
which I will use as perimeter "piers".
1 partial roll of vinyl flooring.

What I plan to buy:
pressure treated lumber for the floor framing
Some exterior paint (keeping an eye on the "oops" cart at HD &
Lowe's). Alternate plan: I have seen some scrap vinyl siding but, will
keep an eye out for the right color.

Rob A.(who's usually on alt.food.barbecue)

Since your stock is 4' long, just build two walls sections that
are 4' in height. Stack one section on top of the other and nail
them together. A little odd, but you are trying to save money.


Rob wrote:

I am building an 8'x10' storage shed from mostly scrap materials for $$ reasons.
I need to construct side walls 7' high using 2'x4's that are 3'- 4' in length.
Is it safe? If so, how should I do it? Mending plates, kerf cuts?

Rob

(Rob) wrote in message . com...
Thanks to everyone for the info and the welcome to rec.woodworking!
The ASCII diagrams were especially useful. With this post I was mainly
concerned with the side walls. I will likely use (purchased) clear
spans of 2"x4" for the roof in the interest of safety. Although, if I
can figure out a solidly engineered truss system using the same
construction cast offs I might go in that direction.

Scarf joints _can_ be used to make longer horizontal beams and
rafters out of shorter pieces of wood. Unless the challenge
of the task is really, really, attractive, and you are very
confident of doing ti well then I agree that you should
just use whole stock

You can make longer studs from the shorter pieces using mortise and
tenon joints. Cut the tennon on the lower piece and the mortice in
the bottom butt of the upper piece. However half-lapping or just
butting them with additonal pieces nailed to either side will do
just fine.

Again, it is a question of how fancy you want to get in addition to
being frugal.


I also have a reliable source of wood pallets through my wife's
employer.

Well, why didn't you say so before? You can saw the slats off
in between the stringers and use those to overlap the splices on
the studs. If you can seperate the slats from the stringers
without breaking them (often it is easier to pund the nails
through the slat rather than pulling them out) then you can
use those for the rafters too.

You will need to plane them to uniform thickness and then laminate
them face-to-face, staggering them so that no two places where
they are butted end-to-end are accross the same section of the
rafter. You will need to use at least three 'layers' of slats
per rafter, and maybe four to assure that the minimum thickeness
accross any section is 1 1/2". THis will also take a lot of glue.

Do you have a source of cheap glue?


I will be examining these next for the 2"x4" used. I am aware that the
quality of wood varies widely in pallets and may not be worth using
(or even safe).

But you get to select it.

--

FF

Well, there you go! Several houses under construction + midnight = shed!!!
g

--
This space for rent.
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Rob" wrote in message
om...
Thanks to everyone for the info and the welcome to rec.woodworking!
The ASCII diagrams were especially useful. With this post I was mainly
concerned with the side walls. I will likely use (purchased) clear
spans of 2"x4" for the roof in the interest of safety. Although, if I
can figure out a solidly engineered truss system using the same
construction cast offs I might go in that direction.

Mending plates will cost extra so, I'll probably pass on using those
for the walls.

My point in all this IS to be frugal. Currently, we have one half of a
garage filled with lawn & garden equipment and I would like to reclaim
this area for a workbench and to park my car. We have the "benefit" of
living in a development with several houses under construction.
Currently, two have been sheetrocked, two have just had foundations
completed with lumber delivered. Another has just been sheathed.

I have a qty of leftover exterior grade screws I will use as well as
some nails.

I also have a reliable source of wood pallets through my wife's
employer.
I will be examining these next for the 2"x4" used. I am aware that the
quality of wood varies widely in pallets and may not be worth using
(or even safe).

For those interested in tracking my progress I will post a page soon.

So far I have scavenged the following cast off materials:

2 pkgs of cast off roof shingles (black)
30' of 2x4 mostly in 8' and 10-12' sections scavengend from a cast off
truss.
8 concrete blocks. These have been already cut in a "half/L" shape
which I will use as perimeter "piers".
1 partial roll of vinyl flooring.

What I plan to buy:
pressure treated lumber for the floor framing
Some exterior paint (keeping an eye on the "oops" cart at HD &
Lowe's). Alternate plan: I have seen some scrap vinyl siding but, will
keep an eye out for the right color.

Rob A.(who's usually on alt.food.barbecue)

(Rob) wrote in message

.........What I plan to buy:
pressure treated lumber for the floor framing
Some exterior paint (keeping an eye on the "oops" cart at HD &
Lowe's). Alternate plan: I have seen some scrap vinyl siding but, will
keep an eye out for the right color.

Rob A.(who's usually on alt.food.barbecue)

Once a month at our county dump they have hazardous waste disposal
day. All the free paint you could ever use plus other bonus items like
thinners, roofing tar, water proofing, etc. Worth checking out if
available in your area.

Mike

Subject

Scarfing together short pieces to get a longer one is definitely a good
solution, but hardly worth the effort for such low cost materials such as
construction grade 2x4's.

Even if you have a supply of FREE small pieces, you can't get there from
here.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49 at Lowes.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ed-171768-.htm

On 4/28/2021 10:36 PM, Broke wrote:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I
am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49
at Lowes.


Wow, that's awful. I have a small hoard of 8' or so 2X4's in my cellar
that I've been meaning to pull the nails from for years. I'm glad that
I held onto them!

Broke on Thu, 29 Apr
2021 02:36:40 +0000 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49 at Lowes.

I didn't follow the link. But, no reason to not make a shed out
of 2x4s. Might not be the most "efficient" way to do it, but then
again, if you have a "surplus" of 2x4s ...

I'm reminded of the story about the Amana colony which supposedly
built a lot of buildings - barns included - of black walnut. Because
they were along way from anywhere and there were a lot of black walnut
trees on the property, which had to be cleared for farming anyway.
--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)

Michael Trew on Wed, 28 Apr 2021 23:16:08 -0400
typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On 4/28/2021 10:36 PM, Broke wrote:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I
am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49
at Lowes.


Wow, that's awful. I have a small hoard of 8' or so 2X4's in my cellar
that I've been meaning to pull the nails from for years. I'm glad that
I held onto them!

The "joke" is that the Border Patrol found lumber with a street
value of 1.7 million dollars concealed in a shipment of cocaine.
--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)

pyotr filipivich writes:
Broke on Thu, 29 Apr
2021 02:36:40 +0000 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49 at Lowes.

I didn't follow the link. But, no reason to not make a shed out
of 2x4s. Might not be the most "efficient" way to do it, but then
again, if you have a "surplus" of 2x4s ...

I'm reminded of the story about the Amana colony which supposedly
built a lot of buildings - barns included - of black walnut. Because
they were along way from anywhere and there were a lot of black walnut
trees on the property, which had to be cleared for farming anyway.

The exterior walls on my Uncle's farmhouse in Wisconsin are made from
oak and walnut 2x4's. Two story, balloon construction, but rather than
modern studwalls, the 2x4's were laid flat like a log house to build
up a solid, 4-inch (real 2x4's) thick wood exterior wall.

On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 1:03:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
pyotr filipivich writes:
Broke on Thu, 29 Apr
2021 02:36:40 +0000 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49 at Lowes.

I didn't follow the link. But, no reason to not make a shed out
of 2x4s. Might not be the most "efficient" way to do it, but then
again, if you have a "surplus" of 2x4s ...

I'm reminded of the story about the Amana colony which supposedly
built a lot of buildings - barns included - of black walnut. Because
they were along way from anywhere and there were a lot of black walnut
trees on the property, which had to be cleared for farming anyway.
The exterior walls on my Uncle's farmhouse in Wisconsin are made from
oak and walnut 2x4's. Two story, balloon construction, but rather than
modern studwalls, the 2x4's were laid flat like a log house to build
up a solid, 4-inch (real 2x4's) thick wood exterior wall.

A few years ago SWMBO and I were driving through the countryside of
Massachusetts when we came across a number of tobacco fields and
their drying sheds.

https://i.imgur.com/ywmkzns.jpg

We noticed that some were as old as the one in that image and some
were practically brand new, right on the same property. We ended up
talking to a local who explained what we were seeing.

It turns out that designers and contractors (city folk) from NYC and
elsewhere were buying up the old wood so they can charge their clients
big bucks for building things with "reclaimed wood".

They would negotiate with the landowners and come to an agreement
based on the condition of the wood. At a minimum, they would build a
new drying shed for the landowner and call it a wash. In some cases
there might be an exchange of cash, usually in the direction of the
landowner (in addition to the new shed) when the old wood was of
top "reclaimed wood" quality.

It's kind of weird to call it "reclaimed", which I consider wood left over
after a project. Taking a entire building apart and building a new one just
because you want the old wood isn't my definition of "reclaimed", but
using that term is a great way to get a higher price.

"The wood I want to use for your project was reclaimed when they tore
down some tobacco drying sheds in Massachusetts."

It's not really a lie, but it does stretch the truth a bit.

On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 23:16:08 -0400, Michael Trew
wrote:

On 4/28/2021 10:36 PM, Broke wrote:
Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I
am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49
at Lowes.


Wow, that's awful. I have a small hoard of 8' or so 2X4's in my cellar
that I've been meaning to pull the nails from for years. I'm glad that
I held onto them!

That's what I paid last weekend at the BORG. I needed two (always
forget them) to slide a couple of sheets of MDF into the truck. I
used to buy 10 or 20 at a time just because. Not until things turn
around.

DerbyDad03 on Thu, 29 Apr 2021 11:12:06 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

It's kind of weird to call it "reclaimed", which I consider wood left over
after a project. Taking a entire building apart and building a new one just
because you want the old wood isn't my definition of "reclaimed", but
using that term is a great way to get a higher price.

"The wood I want to use for your project was reclaimed when they tore
down some tobacco drying sheds in Massachusetts."

It's not really a lie, but it does stretch the truth a bit.

And then there is the option to rip the planks in half and
laminate the resulting thin planks to a substrate, and use them for
"ambiance". The "old look" coffee shops etc.
--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)

"Broke" wrote in message
groupdirect.com...

Hey he could be that broke. I am doing the very same thing. That's why I
am looking at this site. For your information a 2x4 stud is about $7.49 at
Lowes.

--
For full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ed-171768-.htm


If there are enough 2x4 pieces perhaps making 4x4s out of them with
staggered butt joints and lots of nails and glue would work out.

I had a project one time that included scribing sleepers to an above grade
concrete floor. I had a lot of 8 foot long trimmings after doing that task.
I ended up jointing them, gluing them up, and then dimensioning them to
standard 2x4 dimensions. I had enough studs to frame an interior partition
wall. It didn't take long, I didn't have a lot of trash, and I ended up with
straighter more stable studs than I could buy. It was a nice diversion...

On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 6:44:08 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote:
DerbyDad03 on Thu, 29 Apr 2021 11:12:06 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

It's kind of weird to call it "reclaimed", which I consider wood left over
after a project. Taking a entire building apart and building a new one just
because you want the old wood isn't my definition of "reclaimed", but
using that term is a great way to get a higher price.

"The wood I want to use for your project was reclaimed when they tore
down some tobacco drying sheds in Massachusetts."

It's not really a lie, but it does stretch the truth a bit.
And then there is the option to rip the planks in half and
laminate the resulting thin planks to a substrate, and use them for
"ambiance". The "old look" coffee shops etc.

Since you said "resulting thin planks" I assume you mean resaw, not rip.

Ripping a 2 x whatever (once) results in two 2 x (0.5 * whatevers). You've
~ halved the width, but you haven't changed the thickness.

Resawing a 2 x whatever (once) results in two 1 x whatevers. The width remains
the same but the thickness is ~ halved.

It would suck to take a bunch of really cool wood to a mill-work shop and ask them
to rip it in half when you really want them to resaw it. I can only imagine the look on
your face when you go to pick it up. Ouch.

DerbyDad03 on Sat, 1 May 2021 08:28:13 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 6:44:08 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote:
DerbyDad03 on Thu, 29 Apr 2021 11:12:06 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

It's kind of weird to call it "reclaimed", which I consider wood left over
after a project. Taking a entire building apart and building a new one just
because you want the old wood isn't my definition of "reclaimed", but
using that term is a great way to get a higher price.

"The wood I want to use for your project was reclaimed when they tore
down some tobacco drying sheds in Massachusetts."

It's not really a lie, but it does stretch the truth a bit.
And then there is the option to rip the planks in half and
laminate the resulting thin planks to a substrate, and use them for
"ambiance". The "old look" coffee shops etc.

Since you said "resulting thin planks" I assume you mean resaw, not rip.

Well, they're not cutting across the grain, so 'rip'. But if
'resaw' is the term for when you make two 1/4 inch board out of a 1/2
inch board, then yeah, resaw.

Ripping a 2 x whatever (once) results in two 2 x (0.5 * whatevers). You've
~ halved the width, but you haven't changed the thickness.

Resawing a 2 x whatever (once) results in two 1 x whatevers. The width remains
the same but the thickness is ~ halved.

It would suck to take a bunch of really cool wood to a mill-work shop and ask them
to rip it in half when you really want them to resaw it. I can only imagine the look on
your face when you go to pick it up. Ouch.

Thanks for the tip. One of those areas where I didn't know there
was a specific term for what I had in mind. I'm likely to do my own
resaw work anyway.
--
pyotr filipivich
This Week's Panel: Us & Them - Eliminating Them.
Next Month's Panel: Having eliminated the old Them(tm)
Selecting who insufficiently Woke(tm) as to serve as the new Them(tm)