Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real mess..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the
TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..


Pretty much what I do. I set the ROS on top of the Scotch Brite and get
after it.




OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real
mess..lol



How about a thin wire brush for the slots. Push come to shove use a tooth
brush after letting the solvent soak for a few minutes. WD-40 will leave a
refreshing taste in your mouth. ;~)

"mac davis" wrote:

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?


Two choices:

1) Start with a 1/2"-5/8" thick board about 6"-8" long.

Attach a piece of double back tape, then a piece of emery paper.

Apply WD-40 and elbow grease, then wipe slot with paper towel.

2) Recently picked up a brass wire brush, designed to clean a cast iron
grill skillet, at Smart & Final(Restaurant supply house in SoCal) that is
about 1/2" wide x 4"-5" long with a wood handle.

Apply WD-40 and elbow grease, then wipe slot with paper towel.

Would do a super job based on my experience with the cast iron skillet.

Have fun.

Lew

On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 14:00:12 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real mess..lol

Whatever you do, DO NOT run your fingers down the miter slot to clean
out dust or swarf. Especially don't do it twice. DAMHIKT.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 22:18:25 GMT, "Leon" wrote:

How about a thin wire brush for the slots. Push come to shove use a tooth
brush after letting the solvent soak for a few minutes. WD-40 will leave a
refreshing taste in your mouth. ;~)


Yeah, I was hoping for a low-labor solution, but I'll grab the brushes and go
for it..

A few years ago my wife wanted a set of brass/aluminum/steel brushes from Harbor
Freight so I got a box of 'em..
Never thought I'd have a rust problem in the friggin' desert..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mar 1, 5:13*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"mac davis" wrote:
OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

Two choices:

1) Start with a 1/2"-5/8" thick board about 6"-8" long.

Attach a piece of double back tape, then a piece of emery paper.

Apply WD-40 and elbow grease, then wipe slot with paper towel.

2) Recently picked up a brass wire brush, designed to clean a cast iron
grill skillet, at Smart & Final(Restaurant supply house in SoCal) that is
about 1/2" wide x 4"-5" long with a wood handle.

Apply WD-40 and elbow grease, then wipe slot with paper towel.

Would do a super job based on my experience with the cast iron skillet.

Have fun.

Lew

Have you tried a rust eraser?
You can get them at rockler and maybe other woodworking store.
I use them to remove rust on anything metal
You can cut then to fit in the mitre slot . The come in fine, me and
corase texture.

Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com

On Mar 1, 5:00 pm, mac davis wrote:
Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real mess..lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Who is the manufacturer of Topcoat? Googling provides coats and nail
polish but nothing that strikes me as something I want to put on my
saw table...

Jeff wrote:
On Mar 1, 5:00 pm, mac davis wrote:
Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real mess..lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Who is the manufacturer of Topcoat? Googling provides coats and nail
polish but nothing that strikes me as something I want to put on my
saw table...


Try looking for TopCote

"randyswoodshoop" wrote:

Have you tried a rust eraser?

Sounds like it has some HCL in it which while getting rid of the rust, may
be a tad aggressive.

Does the cleaned surface have to be neutralized after use?


Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"randyswoodshoop" wrote:

Have you tried a rust eraser?

Sounds like it has some HCL in it which while getting rid of the rust, may
be a tad aggressive.

Does the cleaned surface have to be neutralized after use?


Lew


Just like it sounds--a rectangular chunk of rubbery material filled
with silicon carbide particles. Like solid sandpaper.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

I get my exercise acting as a
pallbearer to my friends who exercise.
--Chauncey Depew

Cut down a scotchbrite pad and attach it a piece of wood small enough for
the slot, with something one top to grab hold onto. Or a fine flap wheel
with a Dremel.

--
Mike
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
IYAAYAS
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the
TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real
mess..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 16:35:41 -0800 (PST), randyswoodshoop
wrote:


Have you tried a rust eraser?
You can get them at rockler and maybe other woodworking store.
I use them to remove rust on anything metal
You can cut then to fit in the mitre slot . The come in fine, me and
corase texture.

Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com

damn, Randy, I have one on my bench!
I feel dumber than usual, now..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 18:19:07 -0800 (PST), Jeff wrote:

On Mar 1, 5:00 pm, mac davis wrote:
Ok.. followed the excellent and argued over instructions here and did the TS top
with my pad sander and Scotchbbrite pads..

It looks pretty good now and has 3 layers of Topcoat on it..

OTOH, the miter slots still have rust in them..
Any tips/tricks before I try reinventing the wheel?

I tried using PSA paper on my cutoff sled runners and that was a real mess..lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Who is the manufacturer of Topcoat? Googling provides coats and nail
polish but nothing that strikes me as something I want to put on my
saw table...
Empire...
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4948


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:49:03 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"randyswoodshoop" wrote:

Have you tried a rust eraser?

Sounds like it has some HCL in it which while getting rid of the rust, may
be a tad aggressive.

Does the cleaned surface have to be neutralized after use?


Lew

Nope.. pretty much a small sanding sponge, but instead of being coated with
abrasive, it's MADE of it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:

Empire...
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4948

Different product...

Bostik makes Top Cote:
http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD