Ok, so I have read many instructions (from like Woodsmith, Shop Notes, etc)
on how to make table saw jigs (like crosscut sleds, miter sleds, etc).

The problem is that no matter the source, when it comes to the non-plywood
parts, they just say "make this part out of hardwood" without recommending a
type.

Does it really just not make any difference? As long as it is some kind of
wood that's been milled from a tree, it doesn't matter?

Anyone have any suggestions on a good (but cheap, it is just a jig and not
an armoir after all) type of hardwood that would be a good runner in the
miter slot for jig making?


Signed,

Bewildered

Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 6:05am (EST+5)
) asks:
snip Anyone have any suggestions on a good (but cheap, it is just a
jig and not an armoir after all) type of hardwood that would be a good
runner in the miter slot for jig making?

Dunno. I used plywood for mine. They work fine.

JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 23 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 06:05:36 GMT, wrote:

Does it really just not make any difference?

It makes a difference, but not much of one. I generally use whatever
is conveniently to hand, in a suitable size. Beech is good, because
the surface is hard wearing. I also give a good coating of beeswax
polish.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Andy Dingley responds:

It makes a difference, but not much of one. I generally use whatever
is conveniently to hand, in a suitable size. Beech is good, because
the surface is hard wearing. I also give a good coating of beeswax
polish.

The beeswax is good, as is a note that you're using European beech, not
American which is much less stable. Maple, birch, white oak are among the best
in the States.

Charlie Self
"Ain't no man can avoid being born average, but there ain't no man got to be
common." Satchel Paige

I have some of maple and some of oak. I have some hi density slippery
plastic scraps that I am going to try on the next one.

BRuce

wrote:

Ok, so I have read many instructions (from like Woodsmith, Shop Notes, etc)
on how to make table saw jigs (like crosscut sleds, miter sleds, etc).

The problem is that no matter the source, when it comes to the non-plywood
parts, they just say "make this part out of hardwood" without recommending a
type.

Does it really just not make any difference? As long as it is some kind of
wood that's been milled from a tree, it doesn't matter?

Anyone have any suggestions on a good (but cheap, it is just a jig and not
an armoir after all) type of hardwood that would be a good runner in the
miter slot for jig making?


Signed,

Bewildered

On 29 Oct 2003 14:28:07 GMT, otforme (Charlie Self)
wrote:

note that you're using European beech, not
American which is much less stable. Maple, birch, white oak are among the best
in the States.

Didn't realise your beech was different from ours as well.

I'd use maple, but I don't have any to spare (not a common UK wood)

I wouldn't use birch, as ours is far too soft.

I might use white oak, but that would probably be imported American
oak (which I don't buy). The English oak I use a lot of is harder,
with a tendency to brittleness. Although a piece of primo-grade oak
might make a good runner, most of the scrapbox offcuts got in there
because they're already showing a tendency towards brittlenes or
splitting.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

wrote in news:QMInb.54781$e01.154653@attbi_s02:

The problem is that no matter the source, when it comes to the
non-plywood parts, they just say "make this part out of hardwood"
without recommending a type.

You want something that's hard, and not prone to change it's
shape (warp or swell/shrink with humidity). Oak is good,
as is hard maple. You probably wouldn't want to use something
like poplar, because it's softish & would wear quickly. If it's
hard work to plane, then it's probably good for this purpose :-)

That said, last jig I built I used cherry, because I had
a couple of scraps that were about the right size. Works
well enough.

John

Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 12:46pm (EST+5)
(Andy=A0Dingley) says:
snip I also give a good coating of beeswax polish.

I don't have any trained bees, so I used Johnson's floor wax.
Seems to work fine.

JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 29 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 13:24:30 -0500 (EST),
(T.) wrote:

I don't have any trained bees, so I used Johnson's floor wax.

I outsource the bee training. There's a chap who sells honey at the
local farmers market who also sells little two ounce blocks of beeswax
to sewers and crafters.

Every so often often I drop past and order twenty _pounds_ or so of
wax. Friend of mine is a black powder musket shooter and uses loads of
the stuff to make patch lube.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Andy Dingley responds:


I outsource the bee training. There's a chap who sells honey at the
local farmers market who also sells little two ounce blocks of beeswax
to sewers and crafters.

Every so often often I drop past and order twenty _pounds_ or so of
wax. Friend of mine is a black powder musket shooter and uses loads of
the stuff to make patch lube.

He must. My FIL was a beekeeper, actually still has a few hives (he's in his
80s, so is slowing down some, down under 100 hives now). I used to get it from
him for 2 bucks a chunk, usually about 1or 2 lbs. But that was uncleaned. My
BIL also raises bees, got some of his hives from his FIL, who is also my FIL,
so I'll probably be yanking his chain for the wax later on. Not too hard a
yank. Don is about 6' 7" or so. Real gentle guy and I'd as soon he stays that
way.

Charlie Self
"Ain't no man can avoid being born average, but there ain't no man got to be
common." Satchel Paige

wrote:

Does it really just not make any difference? As long as it is some kind of
wood that's been milled from a tree, it doesn't matter?

It probably matters some, but not much. I used poplar for all of mine
because that's what I had. I gave them a coat of Johnson's wax.

I'm sure they won't last forever, but I'm hoping to replace the table saw in
the next several years anyway.

It's not like three passes through the slot turn them to mush or anything
either. I've used my crosscut sled a bajillion times, and it's fine. The
fact that my table is aluminum might mitigate the wear issue somewhat.

I have no idea. I figure if I wear them out before I get a new saw, I can
make new ones, so it's no big deal.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

I've used hard maple as well as white oak for runners with no
problems. Key is alignment and if it's correct there shouldn't be any
wear.

On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 06:05:36 GMT, wrote:

Ok, so I have read many instructions (from like Woodsmith, Shop Notes, etc)
on how to make table saw jigs (like crosscut sleds, miter sleds, etc).

The problem is that no matter the source, when it comes to the non-plywood
parts, they just say "make this part out of hardwood" without recommending a
type.

Does it really just not make any difference? As long as it is some kind of
wood that's been milled from a tree, it doesn't matter?

Anyone have any suggestions on a good (but cheap, it is just a jig and not
an armoir after all) type of hardwood that would be a good runner in the
miter slot for jig making?


Signed,

Bewildered