Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 209
Default Question for you Varathane users

Hi all,

I am applying Varathane Diamond Polyurethane to some goblets that I just
turned. This is the water based version and is NOT the Varathane
Diamond Wood Finish that is oil based. I am using this product because
someone recommended it for a finish that doesn't change the color of the
wood much, seals the wood so the goblets can be used, is relatively
tough, and is pretty much tasteless. It is supposed to be a high gloss,
but I haven't got that far yet.

My problem is that apparently this stuff does no self-leveling at all.
No matter what I do I can see brush strokes. I have tried putting it on
as thin as I can, and as thick as I can without allowing it to run. The
brush I am using is one of my wife's very fine synthetic bristle (as
recommended on the can) watercolor artist brushes (well the can doesn't
say ARTIST brushes but it does say synthetic bristle), and I still see
every single brush mark. I have to sand the goblets back to smooth
again and apply another coat, but every time I sand I have to take it
back to mostly bare wood to get it smooth again. So far I have tried 4
coats and am basically starting over each time I apply it. Anyone have
any tips on eliminating the brush marks?

I have also tried the Varathane Diamond Wood Finish (this is the oil
based product) on some scrap wood, and it changes the color of the wood
too much for me. Darkens, and some yellowing that I want to avoid. I
have also tried Minwax Wipe on Poly and it yellows too much too, but at
least it is smooth. I am going to experiment on a scrap piece and see
what happens when I put the oil based product on top of the water based
product. If I like what I see, do you think there will be any problems
in the future with adhesion, etc?

TIA,

Wayne
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 78
Default Question for you Varathane users

I noticed that to.You can use the spay can stuff it seems to self level.I
have brushed on and then sprayed over it right away and it leveled ,must be
something extra in the spray


"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
et...
Hi all,

I am applying Varathane Diamond Polyurethane to some goblets that I just
turned. This is the water based version and is NOT the Varathane Diamond
Wood Finish that is oil based. I am using this product because someone
recommended it for a finish that doesn't change the color of the wood
much, seals the wood so the goblets can be used, is relatively tough, and
is pretty much tasteless. It is supposed to be a high gloss, but I
haven't got that far yet.

My problem is that apparently this stuff does no self-leveling at all. No
matter what I do I can see brush strokes. I have tried putting it on as
thin as I can, and as thick as I can without allowing it to run. The
brush I am using is one of my wife's very fine synthetic bristle (as
recommended on the can) watercolor artist brushes (well the can doesn't
say ARTIST brushes but it does say synthetic bristle), and I still see
every single brush mark. I have to sand the goblets back to smooth again
and apply another coat, but every time I sand I have to take it back to
mostly bare wood to get it smooth again. So far I have tried 4 coats and
am basically starting over each time I apply it. Anyone have any tips on
eliminating the brush marks?

I have also tried the Varathane Diamond Wood Finish (this is the oil based
product) on some scrap wood, and it changes the color of the wood too much
for me. Darkens, and some yellowing that I want to avoid. I have also
tried Minwax Wipe on Poly and it yellows too much too, but at least it is
smooth. I am going to experiment on a scrap piece and see what happens
when I put the oil based product on top of the water based product. If I
like what I see, do you think there will be any problems in the future
with adhesion, etc?

TIA,

Wayne



  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 54
Default Question for you Varathane users

Wayne,

I have found that the brush has alot to do with it. The other
factors are humidity and heat. If it is too humid, 75% the results are
poor. If it is too cold 63 F then to gets real thick and does not flow or
cure well. But by far the biggest influence is the brush. Do not use the
cheap stuff. I do not understand fully understand how to match the bristles
types to the finish, but the Purdy brand natural bristle here lets the
varathane behave as expected. One last point, if you do not stir the
varathane as suggested, this will also affect your results. (NEVER NEVER
shake it. lots and lots of air bubbles that you will NEVER get out of the
surface) Good luck

Paul.


"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
et...
Hi all,

I am applying Varathane Diamond Polyurethane to some goblets that I just
turned. This is the water based version and is NOT the Varathane Diamond
Wood Finish that is oil based. I am using this product because someone
recommended it for a finish that doesn't change the color of the wood
much, seals the wood so the goblets can be used, is relatively tough, and
is pretty much tasteless. It is supposed to be a high gloss, but I
haven't got that far yet.

My problem is that apparently this stuff does no self-leveling at all. No
matter what I do I can see brush strokes. I have tried putting it on as
thin as I can, and as thick as I can without allowing it to run. The
brush I am using is one of my wife's very fine synthetic bristle (as
recommended on the can) watercolor artist brushes (well the can doesn't
say ARTIST brushes but it does say synthetic bristle), and I still see
every single brush mark. I have to sand the goblets back to smooth again
and apply another coat, but every time I sand I have to take it back to
mostly bare wood to get it smooth again. So far I have tried 4 coats and
am basically starting over each time I apply it. Anyone have any tips on
eliminating the brush marks?

I have also tried the Varathane Diamond Wood Finish (this is the oil based
product) on some scrap wood, and it changes the color of the wood too much
for me. Darkens, and some yellowing that I want to avoid. I have also
tried Minwax Wipe on Poly and it yellows too much too, but at least it is
smooth. I am going to experiment on a scrap piece and see what happens
when I put the oil based product on top of the water based product. If I
like what I see, do you think there will be any problems in the future
with adhesion, etc?

TIA,

Wayne



  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 209
Default Question for you Varathane users

goaway wrote:
Wayne,

I have found that the brush has alot to do with it. The other
factors are humidity and heat. If it is too humid, 75% the results are
poor. If it is too cold 63 F then to gets real thick and does not flow or
cure well. But by far the biggest influence is the brush. Do not use the
cheap stuff. I do not understand fully understand how to match the bristles
types to the finish, but the Purdy brand natural bristle here lets the
varathane behave as expected. One last point, if you do not stir the
varathane as suggested, this will also affect your results. (NEVER NEVER
shake it. lots and lots of air bubbles that you will NEVER get out of the
surface) Good luck

Paul.


Thanks for the response. I don't think I had any atmospheric issues.
Temp was probably around 70 degrees and the humidity was maybe 50%.
This artist brush I am using isn't a cheapie either. Soft as a baby's
butt. When I apply the Varathane, there are no bubbles at all in it so
I don't think I have a brush issue either.


However, I didn't actually STIR the Varathane, but I put in in my rotary
rock tumbler, which just rotates the can, for maybe 30 minutes before I
opened it. I start it rolling and then go eat or something. Maybe I
should try actually stirring it to see if there is some goop stuck to
the bottom of the can.

Wayne
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,091
Default Question for you Varathane users

Wiping polys are just standard poly heavily thinned with an
appropriate material. So, if the watre based poly says it can be
thined with water or some other thinner, then you can make your own
wipe on version.

The best method for wiping on (in my opinion) is to use a brush to
really flood the surface and then wipe it down with a cloth. A
slightly saturated cloth is best. It takes a few coats to build,
especially if you want gloss, you'll need to steel wool it between
coats for a real smooth finish but it can come out beautiful.

Keeo in mind, even poly typically says "Do Not Thin this product" or
"Do NOT THIN more than 20%" or something like that. Those statements
are just to make sure you will keep buying lots of product and not
just keep thinning and also to avoid breaking environmental laws by
having too much vox in the case of lacquer. I would try to make my own
wipe on water based poly.


On Nov 20, 3:48 pm, NoOne N Particular wrote:
Hi all,

I am applying Varathane Diamond Polyurethane to some goblets that I just
turned. This is the water based version and is NOT the Varathane
Diamond Wood Finish that is oil based. I am using this product because
someone recommended it for a finish that doesn't change the color of the
wood much, seals the wood so the goblets can be used, is relatively
tough, and is pretty much tasteless. It is supposed to be a high gloss,
but I haven't got that far yet.

My problem is that apparently this stuff does no self-leveling at all.
No matter what I do I can see brush strokes. I have tried putting it on
as thin as I can, and as thick as I can without allowing it to run. The
brush I am using is one of my wife's very fine synthetic bristle (as
recommended on the can) watercolor artist brushes (well the can doesn't
say ARTIST brushes but it does say synthetic bristle), and I still see
every single brush mark. I have to sand the goblets back to smooth
again and apply another coat, but every time I sand I have to take it
back to mostly bare wood to get it smooth again. So far I have tried 4
coats and am basically starting over each time I apply it. Anyone have
any tips on eliminating the brush marks?

I have also tried the Varathane Diamond Wood Finish (this is the oil
based product) on some scrap wood, and it changes the color of the wood
too much for me. Darkens, and some yellowing that I want to avoid. I
have also tried Minwax Wipe on Poly and it yellows too much too, but at
least it is smooth. I am going to experiment on a scrap piece and see
what happens when I put the oil based product on top of the water based
product. If I like what I see, do you think there will be any problems
in the future with adhesion, etc?

TIA,

Wayne


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Varathane on top of oil polyurethane trbo20 Home Repair 18 December 2nd 18 09:44 PM
Question for Shapton stone users B A R R Y Woodworking 2 October 21st 06 08:21 AM
Varathane site? WConner Woodworking 3 January 15th 06 05:20 PM
Grizzly 1023 SL users: a dumb question Ron Truitt Woodworking 10 April 11th 05 08:31 PM
Problem with Varathane? Todd Fatheree Woodworking 7 September 8th 04 06:28 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:25 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"