alternate tread stair question
hi,
Alternate tread stairs are for steep applications, such as to a loft. I was asked to build a set for someone. The tread width is 24", the depth for the wide half is 10", reducing to 4" for the narrow half. Thickness spec'd at 1 1/16". Housed in the stringers (1 1/2" thick). Material to be ash, maple, or birch... My question is: Due to the depth of the tread, I would need to glue up narrower boards to make up the 10". As the front of the tread is only supported on one side, I am concerned that someone stepping on the tread could snap it off at the glue joint. I have heard "the glue is stronger than the wood", but it still is a concern to me. Any opinions or experience with this? A picture of a similar stair can be seen at http://www.tradestairs.com/acatalog/...pacesaver.html mine will have no risers... thanks, david |
alternate tread stair question
|
alternate tread stair question
david blumberg wrote:
Alternate tread stairs are for steep applications, such as to a loft. I was asked to build a set for someone. The tread width is 24", the depth for the wide half is 10", reducing to 4" for the narrow half. Thickness spec'd at 1 1/16". Housed in the stringers (1 1/2" thick). Material to be ash, maple, or birch... I wouldn't worry about the glue...I'd worry about the wood itself snapping along the grain. This is probably why the one you linked to used plywood. I've seen a version of this where they had a third stringer down the middle of the stair, and each stair was only 12" wide but staggered (ie. no "narrow half"). Chris |
alternate tread stair question
On Oct 1, 5:47 pm, david blumberg wrote:
hi, Alternate tread stairs are for steep applications, such as to a loft. I was asked to build a set for someone. The tread width is 24", the depth for the wide half is 10", reducing to 4" for the narrow half. Thickness spec'd at 1 1/16". Housed in the stringers (1 1/2" thick). Material to be ash, maple, or birch... My question is: Due to the depth of the tread, I would need to glue up narrower boards to make up the 10". As the front of the tread is only supported on one side, I am concerned that someone stepping on the tread could snap it off at the glue joint. I have heard "the glue is stronger than the wood", but it still is a concern to me. Any opinions or experience with this? A picture of a similar stair can be seen athttp://www.tradestairs.com/acatalog/birch_24_spacesaver.html mine will have no risers... thanks, david Double or triple your tread thickness. |
alternate tread stair question
You could always incorporate a third stringer, similar to a ships
ladder, or even a wood shelf support in the center using the same type of wood. If you must glue a few pieces together to make your treads the biscuit idea would work the best I picked up biscuit joiner at Lowes for about $100.00 versus the dewalt for $190.00 is not a bad deal if you only use it a couple of times a year. Dave FL |
alternate tread stair question
On 1 Oct, 17:47, david blumberg wrote:
hi, Alternate tread stairs are for steep applications, such as to a loft. I was asked to build a set for someone. The tread width is 24", the depth for the wide half is 10", reducing to 4" for the narrow half. Thickness spec'd at 1 1/16". Housed in the stringers (1 1/2" thick). Material to be ash, maple, or birch... My question is: Due to the depth of the tread, I would need to glue up narrower boards to make up the 10". As the front of the tread is only supported on one side, I am concerned that someone stepping on the tread could snap it off at the glue joint. I have heard "the glue is stronger than the wood", but it still is a concern to me. Any opinions or experience with this? A picture of a similar stair can be seen athttp://www.tradestairs.com/acatalog/birch_24_spacesaver.html mine will have no risers... thanks, david Tom Silva used the Miller Doweling System to repair a broken tread that exhibited the very symptom you are concerned about. Perhaps you could use these to prevent, as opposed to repair, breakage along the grain. |
alternate tread stair question
Thanks for all the replies...I remember seeing the show with the dowel
repair...I did not notice that the treads in the link I posted are plywood. I can get 1" maple plywood here, so I will see if the interested party would consider that... david |
alternate tread stair question
|
alternate tread stair question
On Oct 1, 5:47 pm, david blumberg wrote:
hi, Alternate tread stairs are for steep applications, such as to a loft. I was asked to build a set for someone. The tread width is 24", the depth for the wide half is 10", reducing to 4" for the narrow half. Thickness spec'd at 1 1/16". Housed in the stringers (1 1/2" thick). Material to be ash, maple, or birch... My question is: Due to the depth of the tread, I would need to glue up narrower boards to make up the 10". As the front of the tread is only supported on one side, I am concerned that someone stepping on the tread could snap it off at the glue joint. I have heard "the glue is stronger than the wood", but it still is a concern to me. Any opinions or experience with this? http://www.stairplan.com/spacesaver.htm The glue probably won't fail, the wood will fail somewhere. Seasonal changes will exacerbate the situation with solid wood treads. Either use a center stringer, use plywood, laminate solid wood to make your own plywood, or use through-bolts to reinforce the freeboard end. R |
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